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wanna get a bandsaw

3K views 28 replies 16 participants last post by  debo75 
#1 ·
never realized how handy a bandsaw would be until i was watching one of the videos of the buildup that cambell enterprises is doin on the home page. One of the fabricators (the old guy with the cigar:smokin:) is cutting out a bracket with a bandsaw. No cleanup, very accurate.

I've got a parker plasma cutter that I use for that kinda stuff and it's great for straight edges, but I'm limited by my steadiness when cutting curved shapes.

I have this bad feeling that I can't afford a bandsaw that will do what I want it to. http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/tls/613580088.html
How bout this one for example? The most I'll probably be cutting is 3/8" or so.

Also, what difference is there between vertical and horizontal? other that they're horizontal and vertical:flipoff2:?
 
#2 ·
If thats really a jet saw it should be decent and thats a good price. I'd grab it if I didn't already have one.

Horizontals are good for cutting stock to length but won't do intricate cuts. The stock is held in a clamp and the blade "falls" down thru it.

Verticals are more like a wood band saw you'll see at H depo. You move the stock past the blade. Since you manipulate the stock its good for intricate cuts but less usefull for 20' lengths.

Mine is a horizontal but has a small table that can be used to make it a vertical saw. I'm going to guess that this was homemade, but I got it with the saw used so it my be a replacement that was build by the previous owners. I don't use the vertical part frequently as I have a small portaband that will cover most things and a plasma, 3 cutting torches, 2 chop saws, gas powered abrasive saw, many grinders ...You get the idea.

My saw has an auto off function. I can set it to cut stock and let it cut while I clean up edges or tack up parts. I often use it for repetitive cuts, say cross members for a trailer. You do have to make sure the blade dosen't bind and burn up the motor but as long as I'm in the shop with it, it's almost like having a second guy cutting.
 
#3 ·
This is the same horizontal bandsaw that I have. It is what I call a chopping band saw because of the odvious...

I went to a old tractor repair shop that was just bought out and was looking at tools they are going to auction off. The reason I tool a picture of it is because it is the same one I have but mine does not have any markings as to what brand it is and this one did so I took this picture and one of the brand sticker. Seems like there was a guy that posted in my shop build that he also had one and needed parts but did not know where to get them so I will post the same pic and the other in my shop build so he can find it...

I would also like to have a vertical band saw for tabs and such but have never used one and would like to before I drop the coin for one...

sorry for rambling, here is your pic...

JOSH
 

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#5 ·
alrite, so what I'm really looking for then is a vertical. I don't really have a need for making long cuts. That said, I think I'll call n see if i can pick that badboy up, since it sounds like i could make it into a vertical pretty easily. then i would have a horizontal AND vertical saw

If it's sold already or somethin, what should i be looking for in a vertical bandsaw powerwise? how big should it be, etc.? price?
 
#7 ·
SPEEDCRAVIN if that saw says "carolina" at the top of the tag it is the same saw or by the same co. as mine. I tried to call the mfg. using the phone # on the tag but thats not who answered the phone. They are out of business or moved. It's a Very nice saw.

Fr0stbite

When did you last change the blade? If the teeth are worn more on one side than the other the blade will cut off to one side. It will also do this if the blade isn't tight enough on the wheels and the guides are out of adjustment.

Another thing, the guys at the old shop I worked at F**ked with the hydraulic lowering system to try and get it to cut faster. Unfortunately it nolonger lowers evenly. It will tend to bind from to much down force at the bottom 1/3 of a cut. I just have to watch it, and when it starts to bind I try and readjust the hyd unit. PITA. I know they sell replacement units at MSC but I dont use the saw enought to justify one right now. When my saw binds the motor WILL stop, the blade won't come off. ( the guys at the shop burned up one motor this way) The only time the blade comes off is if the blade jams in a deep cutand I have to yank on it to free it. See if you hold a little bit of the weight of the arm to slow the feed of cut and see it the blade pops then after you tighten it up. You may also have a blade thats slightly to big for you saw. I forget what length mine is but I remember that there was a lot of sizes that were close together the last time I went to change it.
 
#8 ·
FWIW, If you are looking for a horizontal saw, I'd stay away from the 4 x 6 band saw like the one on craigs list. JET makes a 5 x 7 that comes with a coolant pump, and makes nice consistent cuts. It seems all 4 x 6 saws look pretty much the same, and are usually junk.. Most of the 5 x 7s look similar also, I think one company is making them and re-badging them, but the 5 x 7s seem to be of much better quality. As for Horizontal ones, Craftsman made a vertical one that seems to pop up cheap, I picked one up for 25.00, put a metal cutting blade on it, and it works well, the thickest I've cut with it is 1/4", but I cant see why 3/8" would be a problem, just go slow and keep the blade lubed.
 
#9 · (Edited)
This is a great horizontal/vertical saw (JET 5x6). They are great to sit on and push stuff thru in the vertical mode (don't use the stupid plate they send with it). I've cut plenty of 1/2" thick lift points for machinery on one exactly like it in the fab shop I worked in. If you want to be cutting curves, I don't think a bandsaw is going to do that all that well. Just get some good Lenox blades for whatever saw you get, or that's what I'd advise.

 
#10 ·
If you want to be cutting curves, I don't think a bandsaw is going to do that all that well.
not true at all. Look at any build done by toby lavender. Almost every piece of flat steel in every build he has done was done with a drill press and hole saws and a vertical band saw. Cutting small intricate curves is the reason I will buy a vertical band saw in the near future.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I was referring to my horizontal/vertical bandsaw, simmer down. From the way I worded it your correct, send me your address and I'll mail you a gold star.

As well I've seen Toby's work, he's very talented.

Can you do the WHOLE sweeping cut in one pass with a vertical bandsaw, or do you have to sit there trimming it, knocking clearance pieces out etc? If the latter I'd still rather use my plasma since you have to touch it up anyway.

To each their own.
 
#19 ·
Can you do the WHOLE sweeping cut in one pass with a vertical bandsaw, or do you have to sit there trimming it, knocking clearance pieces out etc?
Depends on the curve. Very rarely did I ever or ever see Toby have to cut slits to get the curve. If the curve is that tight, use a hole saw. You can not cut a smooth curve by hand with a plasma. If you are marking your steel with a sharpie and following your drawing by hand, that is fine, but your parts wont be accurate and you won't be able to make repeatable, almost identical parts.

The best way to make repeatable, accurate parts is to draw the parts in cad, print them out on your laser printer. Cut out the pattern with a 1/4" gap arround it. Take some spray glue, and spray your piece of steel. Stick the paper cut out and stick it on the steel. All your holes are marked with a dot in the middle, so you just center punch them, over to the drill press, drill your holes, and then over to the band saw, just cut allong the line. run the part over the belt sander. you can do it 2,3,4,10,50 times, over and over, and in the end, you will have a pile of parts that are identical enough you could pass them off as being done by a cnc laser. The plasma is a good tool, and does good straights with a guide, but a band saw is where it is at for accuracy and repeatability.
 
#12 ·
Ya know on second thought, I think I might just go with a vertical to save space, I've only got a two car garage and my mom's car is usually parked on one side, leaving me only half the garage for tools n wat not, and i'm quickly running out of room.

Let me just make sure I'm understanding this right, a horizontal saw is for "ripping" material right? I just don't really ever have a need for doing that. Also, what exactly does 5x7 and 4x6 refer to? the table size?

thanks for the heads up on that saw frostbite, i'll shy away:D

Can you do the WHOLE sweeping cut in one pass with a vertical bandsaw, or do you have to sit there trimming it, knocking clearance pieces out etc? If the latter I'd still rather use my plasma since you have to touch it up anyway.
http://pirate4x4.com/trailreports/scherer_build08/thursday.php
check out the video at 1:15. this is what's givin me the hardon for a bandsaw
 
#13 · (Edited)
If you have the room and $$ for a dedicated vertical bandsaw, the table will be much larger and sturdier than the HF/JET/Chicom 4x6 horizontal/vertical bandsaw in the verticle mode. For occasional use, you could make a larger/sturdier table.

The 4x6 refers to the size stock the bandsaw can cut. When in horizontal mode it will be like a chop saw or miter saw. Ripping is cutting along the long axis.

The HF 4x6 is actually a pretty handy to have around, obviously not up to full on production work, but a pretty deent value. There's a bunch of info on here on PBB and other websites that a quick google search will turn up.
 
#16 ·
X2 (make sure it's not 3 phase or you'll need a converter)
That kicks the crap out of the first saw you linked.
 
#22 ·
Hmm, so it is. Single phase and probably for woodworking. I didn't read the ad...just looked at the pretty pictures. The pics show a JD2 bender next to it so I assumed it was for metal, but for $100 it would still be worth it, figure a way to slow down RPM and you've still got a good deal.

Agree w/ X-rated,
Not knocking Dave Campbell, 'cause they build some sweet junk, but a step drill or hole saw would have give a nice radius and reduce relief cuts/binding the blade.
 
#23 ·
A simple jackshaft arrangement and a coupla belts and you can slow a badnsaw done easily enough. If you're doing fab work and need a badnsaw, fabbing the pulley brackets shouldn't be an issue.

I'm a real fan of the cheap bandsaws, HF and the like. I run the shit out of them and when they wear out, throw them away and buy another one. I'm on number three or four, but this time I accidentally bought a slightly better one that seems to be holding up better :flipoff2:.

I believe HF has theirs on sale right now for $159.99.
 
#24 ·
i have beat the living shit out of my hf 4x6 and it keeps chugging. I cut through a stack of 6, 1/4" x 3" plate steel with no tension on the spring and it handles it no problem. Hell ive even flipped this thing over before cause the damn stand is sucha pos. really was worth the 120 i spent on it.
 
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