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Old 12-05-2011, 02:04 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I believe that 100psi at 180F is the standard T&P rating according to ASTM F877 for SDR 9 PEX tubing. Pressure ratings at lower temperatures vary a bit amongst manufacturers so I would expect to see ~140-160psi ratings at ~74F.
I just looked at the roll I have, it says 100 psi @ 190'F.


It's 5/8" OD, I wonder if that's a determining factor?
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Old 12-05-2011, 02:14 PM   #27 (permalink)
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billybob and cartercraft, that is known as PEX AL PEX.
I was told the aluminum is an oxygen shield. I used the stuff for my in floor (hydronic) heat system.
In about a month I'll be damn glad there is aluminum in it, I made open places for an above ground hoist to anchor to the floor, and didn't take as good of measurements and didn't draw it up as good as I should have, but I can find it with a metal detector, or one of them new fangled Milwaukee 12v "find hidden shit under there" tool thingie.
I still think I'm going to run black pipe, and take the drops off the top of the pipe,,,,,,,,,,,,
I'm in the same boat as Todd W, wish that shit would install itself!
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Old 12-05-2011, 02:45 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I just looked at the roll I have, it says 100 psi @ 190'F.


It's 5/8" OD, I wonder if that's a determining factor?
Household PEX has a standard SDR (9) so the wall thickness varies with diameter to maintain the same pressure rating on different diameters of tubing. Then again 100psi @ 180F is a code minimum so ratings exceeding the minimum requirements should not be an issue.
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Old 12-06-2011, 06:00 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Has anyone used their bender to run the black pipe instead of using threaded on elbows and couplers? I thought about using the bender, and welding on the fittings instead of fighting with threading and doping the connections.
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:52 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Household PEX has a standard SDR (9) so the wall thickness varies with diameter to maintain the same pressure rating on different diameters of tubing. Then again 100psi @ 180F is a code minimum so ratings exceeding the minimum requirements should not be an issue.
I have no idea what this stuff really is, or what it's true application is. I was given a huge roll of it after a friend had hydronic heat installed in his garage. Knowing him, it is some exotic industrial heating system tubing (he works in the commercial baking industry).

One characteristic of PEX tubing that hasn't been addressed is its incredible expansion capability. I'm told it has the ability to expand to more than 2.5X its original size. I can't imagine this application ever exceeding such a specification.

If it's made to withstand the freezing of the water contained inside without bursting, I tend to think it can withstand compressed air at shop pressures (mine only runs about 100 PSI and that's plenty for my needs so far.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:12 AM   #31 (permalink)
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I thought they were called "street ells".
Shure, im by no means a plumber.
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:32 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I thought they were called "street ells".
A street elbow (or ell, or 90, whatever you want to call it) has a male end and a female end as opposed to two females like a regular elbow.

A shower elbow is threaded female at one end and female sweat fitting at the other end.
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:32 PM   #33 (permalink)
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the fitting you are talking about is called
a drop ear ell. the screws go into the ears.
you can buy em with threads on both ends.
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:37 PM   #34 (permalink)
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the fitting you are talking about is called
a drop ear ell. the screws go into the ears.
you can buy em with threads on both ends.
That's it!

Thanx!
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:52 PM   #35 (permalink)
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The pex should have no issue withstanding the pressure, seeing how when I did plumbing we would pressurize the homes water lines to 90-100psi to check for leaks. I would not recommend using "shark bite" style fittings seeing they are not cheap. Go with the standard brass crimp rings they were $.18 each a few years ago and the brass fittings were cheap also. Dont waste your time with the stainless adjustable crimp rings they are a PITA. Also to save a few bucks there are plastic fittings available but in a shop environment I would use brass.

And the pex does expand and not burst when the water freezes I dont know about 2.5X but it does expand a considerable amount.
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:01 PM   #36 (permalink)
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ive been running pex for 3 years now and no issues.. I went with 1/2 all thru the shop and no issues with flow that I can see.

Pex does not like uv light so I ended up hitting the lines that were by the doors with some white spray paint to try and shield the light and so far so good.

used the crimp rings and no leaks first time through.
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:32 PM   #37 (permalink)
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And the pex does expand and not burst when the water freezes I dont know about 2.5X but it does expand a considerable amount.
Google says 1/3 expansion. I'll correct the guy who told me 2.5X (I was impressed with 10%, 33 is great, 250 would be outstanding)
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:54 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Has anyone used their bender to run the black pipe instead of using threaded on elbows and couplers? I thought about using the bender, and welding on the fittings instead of fighting with threading and doping the connections.
Socket weld fittings for small bore piping are easy to work with and reasonably cheap.

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Old 12-06-2011, 06:18 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Hmmm....i sell pex at work. Never thought of using it for my air. Thanks for the idea.
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:52 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I've been using PEX for a couple years with no problems at all. It was easy to install and cheap.
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:40 AM   #41 (permalink)
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The biggest thing for me was the low price and the material/plastic used. It does not fail like the PVC style tubes. It will burst and split open, not shatter.
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Old 12-07-2011, 03:39 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I think the PEX-AL-PEX would be the style of PEX to use, but I haven't found a good source locally.

I was thinking it would be the ticket to plumb my gooseneck with. My shop runs 3/4" galvanized everywhere..
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Old 12-10-2011, 10:14 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I ran a hybrid system of PEX, copper, and rubber in my shop. Rubber anywhere it could flex, copper for the main upright/distribution manifold, and PEX for the runs and drops. After some research I found it is rated at 180PSI HYDRAULIC (apparently hydraulic pressure ratings are different becasue of the hammer effect). This translates to roughly 300PSI, so I think I am good at 125PSI for my shop air. No issues or leaks in the PEX, but every time the temperature drops my rubber hose couplings leak!
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:32 AM   #44 (permalink)
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For those that have used PEX, how do you connect the air fittings/couplings to the PEX lines?
I'd like to use the PEX for my garage, it's 26' x 28' and I would like to have 4 drops with quick-disconnect fittings at waist level.
Can the crimp rings for the PEX hold the NPT fittings?
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Old 07-02-2012, 05:42 AM   #45 (permalink)
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For those that have used PEX, how do you connect the air fittings/couplings to the PEX lines?
I'd like to use the PEX for my garage, it's 26' x 28' and I would like to have 4 drops with quick-disconnect fittings at waist level.
Can the crimp rings for the PEX hold the NPT fittings?
Why don't you just use the pex/NPT adapter fittings? That's what they're made for.

Like this: http://www.pexsuperstore.com/1-2-pex...-fittings.html

Oh, and the expansion tool is the best IMHO, but you need to use ProPex tubing. ------> http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/pex_joining.php
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:00 AM   #46 (permalink)
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ive head 3/4 pex in my shop for almost two years no issues. as stated before i did the install when it was cold and the coil sat in the bed of my truck for a while so it was a bitch to get straight. was about a 2ft dia coil.
i think i spent 200-300 and got the crimping tool and 200 ft of line and a bunch of connectors.

not sure if it is to be used for pex or not but i found these 90* slip on corners. (no idea of the name or the brand) but they allow you to bend the stuff at a nice 90 and throw a zip tie on each side. looked attractive in the store but was more of a pain in the ass. i should have just crimped in a 90 or any where i had to go around something i should have put in a T and capped the bottom so i can latter add a drop if need be.

When you guys are saying black pipe what is it that your talking about? the pipe you see your gas run in for your house which seems to have a pretty heavy wall. could i just use a sch10 or 40 2" pipe. I use that size all the time and buy it by the bundle and get a great price on it.

When i build a new shop id like to use some form of black pipe just to have more CF of air storage.
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:56 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Black pipe is the super cheap stuff seen at HD or Lowes.
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:27 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xmptsunami View Post
Why don't you just use the pex/NPT adapter fittings? That's what they're made for.

Like this: http://www.pexsuperstore.com/1-2-pex...-fittings.html

Oh, and the expansion tool is the best IMHO, but you need to use ProPex tubing. ------> http://www.plumbinghelp.ca/pex_joining.php

I've never actually worked with or bought the PEX products, I just appreciate the ease and speed of install over copper pipe. At this point I'm completely ignorant of what attachments are available for the PEX lines and fittings etc.

So another newbie question - for running air in your garage/shop, do you plumb one line from the compressor to a manifold and then plumb your runs from there?
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Old 07-02-2012, 09:43 PM   #49 (permalink)
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air kits

Northern Tool sells RapidAir kits. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...4023_200484023

I have the kit from Northern. I have not put it up yet, but it looks good in the box

http://www.rapidairproducts.com/

sell kits with,
Alum tube
Nylon
HDPE/Alum/HDPE

Also Menards (and others) sell DuraPEX for potable water in blue and red.

I have been told this dose not have UV problems when exposed. ??
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:24 AM   #50 (permalink)
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I used the rapid air kit from northern. I almost used PEX in my shop until I added up the cost between it and the rapid air kit. The fittings seem cheap/weak and I had to buy a couple extra manifolds that I felt were over priced but in in the two years or so that the system has been installed I've had zero problems or leaks. Manifolds work great to drain moisture and were easy to install. Only advice I would give is install in the summer or some how warm the tubing because it is stiff and a pain to run when cool.
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