STOCK-FULL Ford Bronco Build-ASCC series

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FULL-SIZE STOCK TRUCK build**editors note: I built this using just a Millermatic170, Makita 4.5"angle-grinder, and a $350 plasma cutter in my tiny garage. I hope others can benefit from my thread and find the information usefull in their own stock truck build**

Figured I would post a build thread on my 4x4 Racer: a 1986 Ford Bronco I picked up two years ago. It all started two years ago when I entered my first short-course race in a Jeep. Even though I only beat Toyota's to the checkered flag that day, I had such a good time on the track I decided to build a budget racer. I chose the Ford Bronco for several reasons; independant front suspension with the TTB, the full-size broncos seemed to be evenly balanced and had good geometery for off-road jumps and turns, dependable stock parts like the Ford 9" ring gears/axles, C-6 transmissions, and Borg-Warner t-cases. The Ford F-series trucks were my second choice but the wheelbase was longer, trucks were heavier, and the Bronco seemed to fit better in my garage. Plus if OJ can escape the LAPD in a Bronco, maybe it would work for me too!

SPECS:
-302HO aspirated motor (plan on swapping in a 351w)
-C6 Transmission with some E40D clutches/hughes TC
-D44 TTB w/WARN premium hubs
-junkyard 9" with spool
-Borg-Warner 1356 stock t-case
-M/T wheels, 15" rim, Goodyear Wrangler 32" tires

I found this 86' on a site called GoFastBroncos.com from a local guy that ran outa money going towards a pre-runner build:



Previous Owner had already bought some of the major interior items like seats, harnesses, switches, guages, optima, detachable steering wheel, etc.


Someone had already trussed the front TTB.


The Bronco also had single-tube bumpers front and back already welded in:

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I gutted the Bronco, cut off the top of the roof 4" from the top and and hollowed out the roof and door panels down to one-layer to save weight and gain space for tube.




After the Bronco was gutted and roof removed, I took my trailer full-of-tube and rig over to a friend who bent the tube. Rob Bonney bent up tube for the roof, side-rockers, doors, and A/B-pillars. I dragged it back home and let it sit out in the rain to rust.


I decided on 2" DOM for the main cage, just in case I ever wanted to race SCORE Class3 and show them Moss Bros. what's up!


I used 1.75" DOM everywhere else. Not the prettiest design, but it works for me:


I had no clue what to do when linking the A-Piller to the frame. Rob B. convinced me to build purches off the side of the frame and connect the rocker/A-Piller together. "It's not what you know, it's who you know"

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This should help with tire rub when racing door-to-door and keeping the body protected in crashes or trail rides:


I made a quick/ugly truss for the 9":




A view from the top looking at how the B-Pillar links to the top of the frame:


My redneck steering wheel holder (seems to work great at holding the steering column together lol):


I replaced the stock motor mounts with these from Driven Auto Parts in PHX:


Found a deal on a used 11 gallon fuel-cell and lowered as much as possible:


Made a simple dash to hold the 4 guages that all pointed at the driver:


I was going to build a new cross-member and box in the frame but decided to leave the stock one in place:

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Suspension!

Rear leaf bracket got some shock tabs. Using a very worn out 14" Sway-Away remote res. shock:


I welded in a block of square stock to capture the top(rules allow 12" travel):


The front was a little more complicated. I cut out/unbolted the coil spring retainer and trimmed it up to just accept the coil spring and welded it back in place. I went with two Doestech Shocks on each side, 4 total up front and it seems to land/ride nice on the track:




Note to self: NEVER WELD COIL SPRINGS TOGETHER! These were made for testing and only lasted long enough for two jumps! I ended up using F250 4-6" lift coils I found at the junkyard, cut down to size. Beefy!


I ditched the aftermarket long arms(not allowed per rules) and re-inforced the stock control arms:


I went with new bushings from Daystar in PHX. I also had some bushing retainers made for the control arms out of aluminum. Thanks to my friends at Arizona Machine, this alloy retainer won't break/shatter and saves the bushing material from impacts:


New bushings/retainer in place with stock radius arm mount:

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Making the seat supports and attachments was kinda fun. I got to custom fit the position exactly the way I wanted it for my 6'2" frame. There is also a lot of room to play with in a full-size truck vs. mini:


I did a big rear hoop for the bumper and tied it into the bedsides. Not sure if this is the best, but it protects the bed and allows easy access to spare tires, coolers, and my dog can jump in easily:




I added the brake light for safety (not req.) and I used a B&M tranny cooler from Summit. It was the largest plate-style they sold at the time.


Bolted doors stay shut while racing:


This is an old u-bolt I made into a step:


I went with the Summit Brand radiator this time. It is the largest dual-core rad that would fit. So far it has held up great(7 races so far):


Started out using an AOD trans but this didn't shift well for racing, and would never down-shift when I wanted or stay in 1st/2nd Gear. I ended up having a friend help me rebuild a C-6, which is actually lighter and stronger than the AOD.


Also went with a Hughes Converter, 2400 stall I believe. Hughes has always treated me right and never had a failure with their parts(they built a C-4 for my rockbuggy):


First test-drive with power to the motor. I bought a tacometer and mounted like so:

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The motor is a 302 HO and needs more power! I put a cam in it, trick-flow brand to match the roller-rockers, but it just ain't big enough to beat the other 350/351 Short-Blocks on the track:



Race Ready: 32" Tires are required


I've had a lot of fun building this and have raced it several times. It is also a fun rig to take out on the trails and explore the rutted rocky roads of AZ. Here is some pics out at the races and at play:

[Ditchrunner]

Nice clean build.
Apparently you are having a blast with it. I raced an 80 bronco for 4-5 years early in the decade, and it was a hoot. It was wore out when I crushed it, though. I'm not sure what your rules say, but I would plate the engine crossmember and frame from the radiator mount to at least behind the radius arm mounts to help keep it straight. My frame rolled out at the front body mounts, in at the coil buckets and out at the firewall body mounts. It also wiggled down the length of the rig from various rolls, wrecks and big hits.
It looks like you did a better job of getting the cage to the frame than I did (at least when I first built it, I added more ties later) and that will help. Also, the 86 frame is stronger than the 80 frame.
A tranny crossmember and skid plates wouldn't be a bad idea if you get the time.

Have fun,
Blair

[desert runner]

Thanks for posting this up.....I'm waiting to see if they do a Nevada series,cause I've got the short course bug...fingers crossed.

[loudpyps]

sweet build, are you on fsb? i never thought of cutting the roof off to build the front cage section, been trying to figure out how i was gonna weld the tops of the tube joints with the roof there, definitely stealing that idea! how hard was it to get the top welded back on straight and square?

[fuggy]

Originally Posted by Ditchrunner

Nice clean build.
Apparently you are having a blast with it. I raced an 80 bronco for 4-5 years early in the decade, and it was a hoot. It was wore out when I crushed it, though. I'm not sure what your rules say, but I would plate the engine crossmember and frame from the radiator mount to at least behind the radius arm mounts to help keep it straight. My frame rolled out at the front body mounts, in at the coil buckets and out at the firewall body mounts. It also wiggled down the length of the rig from various rolls, wrecks and big hits.
It looks like you did a better job of getting the cage to the frame than I did (at least when I first built it, I added more ties later) and that will help. Also, the 86 frame is stronger than the 80 frame.
A tranny crossmember and skid plates wouldn't be a bad idea if you get the time.

Have fun,
Blair

I've got tube support around the engine that ties into the frame/engine crossmember. In the future I'd like to tie it all in to the a-pillar bars and connect it through the fire wall. I don't have any bracing behind radius arms, just the stock plate with three bolts holding it to the frame. I will look into that, thanks!

[fuggy]

Originally Posted by loudpyps

sweet build, are you on fsb? i never thought of cutting the roof off to build the front cage section, been trying to figure out how i was gonna weld the tops of the tube joints with the roof there, definitely stealing that idea! how hard was it to get the top welded back on straight and square?

Not on fsb. It was fairly easy cutting the roof off. I chose the top since there is less material and it is thinner near roof line. I sanded paint off first, then took a sawzaw to it and it came off easy! I used ratchet straps and tacked it in place with low heat and patience.

[loudpyps]

Originally Posted by fuggy

Not on fsb. It was fairly easy cutting the roof off. I chose the top since there is less material and it is thinner near roof line. I sanded paint off first, then took a sawzaw to it and it came off easy! I used ratchet straps and tacked it in place with low heat and patience.

nice, i need to do this before i lean it into to many more trees or it WILL be a nightmare haha

[reeseracing23]

are your beams cut or turned or anything? im kinda building the same thing, except is a 86 shortbox stepside. and i was curious if you have those ext radius arms and if oyu wanted to get rid of them.
thanks, justin

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Originally Posted by reeseracing23

are your beams cut or turned or anything? im kinda building the same thing, except is a 86 shortbox stepside. and i was curious if you have those ext radius arms and if oyu wanted to get rid of them.
thanks, justin

beams are not cut/turned, stock location and mounts. Probably going to look into changing out the stock bushing where it attaches to the frame. The short course racing has been brutal on parts.

I have the longer custom arms and 1.25" heims I would consider selling. PM me if interested.

[reeseracing23]

you have been pm'd. i use to race short course and love the sport and all the inginuity that goes along with it. i wish more people would post some builds of theirs. i will be starting on mine whenever my tax return shows up

[fuggy]

UPDATE: Swapped in a junkyard V8. Using a 351W out of a 96 F250. The 351 has a lot more low end and pull out of the corners and seems to have the same top end power than my older 302HO motor. I added a Howe 1:1.5 steering quickener and it made steering much easier on my stock pump/box. Also swapped in some 5.38 gears which seem to be faster out of the corners than 4.56's.



The front Doeschtec (SP) shocks are starting to blow apart and fail. I got about 6-7 races out of these 2" emulsion shocks, so I'm happy with that. Everything else is holding up great. The last race it rained and made the track a muddy mess so I ran 4WD and was able to walk away from the competition.

[JackA]

Congrats on your 1st place in the heat but......4th in the main is walking away from the competion?

It was the muddiest race yet. Having 4wd was the only way too go. Even with that, there was a ton spin outs.

Next race should be a fun one....Glamis Status afterwards

[BadAZYj]

I think he means walking away after congratulating them on their top three finishes

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The 4x4 Bronco was walking away in the muddy conditions. Then the sun came out and dried up the track and my rig slowed down to Formula4x4 speeds!

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BUMP! This Bronco is For Sale. Could also be used for desert racing (2" main cage and custom chromolly beams for TTB. I will post a for sale ad soon:

Details:
1986 Titled Ford FS Bronco
-351W with cam, JBA Headers, Edlbrock Performer Alloy intake, MSD ignition and distributor
-Built C6 Transmission by HUGHES, includes shift kit, deep pan, and Hughes Torque Converter (2500 stall), ART Car shifter
-Tranny Cooler B&M Plate style
-2" DOM main cage, 1.75" DOM full cage (built to SCORE class 3 specs)
-Trussed front TTB Axles and rear Ford 9" Axle.
-Alloy M/T Racing Rims with GoodYear MTR tires (32" x 15r)
-Howe Steering quickener and quick release steering wheel
-Optima Battery and waterproof switches
-Autometer gauges
-Crow Harness Belts and Beard Seats (2 sets)
-Custom high-flow 3" exhaust w/Magnaflow quick-release muffler

Extras:
-Custom Long Arm control arms, chromolly, with 1.25" heims
-Brand new Steering Box built by BenchWorx Steering (Pat)
-Fiberglass hood and front quarter panels
-GoodYear MTR Tires (4 spares, two are brand new)
-Walker Evan's Beadlocks/rings (4 brand new rims)
-Summit Radiator, alloy
-Complete rear 3rd Member
-Drive-shafts (2)
-3 extra shocks for front TTB
-alternator, PS pump, brake lines, tuned and ready to race extra Carburator.