steering box center???

BigBlueToy · 10-26-2009, 08:02 PM

So I have almost completed my power steering install in my Defender 90 using a D1 box. I have centered the steering wheel and box, 3.5 turns lock to lock, so I centered it at 1.75 turns per side. My wheels are straight and I have the 924mm from balljoint center to balljoint center that the Landrover workshop manual specifed for the track rod. But the drop arm is offset slightly to the drivers side. Is this normal?

bigbluelunchbox · 10-26-2009, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBlueToy

So I have almost completed my power steering install in my Defender 90 using a D1 box. I have centered the steering wheel and box, 3.5 turns lock to lock, so I centered it at 1.75 turns per side. My wheels are straight and I have the 924mm from balljoint center to balljoint center that the Landrover workshop manual specifed for the track rod. But the drop arm is offset slightly to the drivers side. Is this normal?

yessir

BigBlueToy · 10-27-2009, 02:56 PM

Is this to compensate for the ball joint hole being offset from center in the knuckle?

tony cordell · 11-08-2009, 06:53 AM

Also prevents the box hitting the internal stops if you lose one of the Lock stop bolts.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?sh...=&fromsearch=1

PTSchram · 11-08-2009, 10:37 AM

If you read the manual closer, you will notice that the dimension given is only there to get you in the ballpark and that further adjustment is going to be necessary.

tony cordell · 11-08-2009, 12:58 PM

I think that is clear in the thread?

PTSchram · 11-08-2009, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tony cordell

I think that is clear in the thread?

First off, Tony, good to see you here. How've you been?

Perhaps in the thread you linked to, but it was not clear in the discussions here.

It is silly to think that Land Rover could hold close enough tolerances that if one were to measure a distance between tie rod ends that they'd be spot-on and not need any fine adjustments! Fortunately, the steering is so simple that is easily achieved.

BigBlueToy · 11-08-2009, 05:36 PM

I centered the steering box, Adjusted the the track rod to 924mm, and the fawkin thing tracks straight as an arrow at max speed of 120km/h. Too easy!

tony cordell · 11-09-2009, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PTSchram

First off, Tony, good to see you here. How've you been?

Perhaps in the thread you linked to, but it was not clear in the discussions here.

It is silly to think that Land Rover could hold close enough tolerances that if one were to measure a distance between tie rod ends that they'd be spot-on and not need any fine adjustments! Fortunately, the steering is so simple that is easily achieved.

Good Thanks busy building an extension on the new home
that's finished now so back to the L/R

evilfij · 11-12-2009, 08:10 PM

Lift requires you to slightly lengthen the drag link. I always try to center the arm on the box.

cptyarderho · 11-13-2009, 07:13 AM

Mine is off to the driver's side a bit, must be an LR thing. When you center the steering wheel and mount the shaft, the box is not centered on mine. It has nothing to do with the track rod.

PTSchram · 11-13-2009, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cptyarderho

Mine is off to the driver's side a bit, must be an LR thing. When you center the steering wheel and mount the shaft, the box is not centered on mine. It has nothing to do with the track rod.

By definition, if the box is centered using the notch in the arm and the hole in the box, the steering wheel is to be square and the CROSS TUBE, not the track rod length is adjusted to achieve straight forward motion.

The FSM states:
23. If driving straight ahead and steering wheel is
offset by 0°to ± 5°in either direction. Remedy by
adjusting drag link length.
WARNING: To correct steering wheel
deviations greater than ± 5°. Remove and
reposition steering wheel.

cptyarderho · 11-13-2009, 01:25 PM

my steering wheel needs to come off then. I would like to switch to a smaller wheel anyway, I just do not want to spend the $$$ for the momo setup. I need to find a way to mount one of those cheap ones I see in all the Jeep catalogs.

BigBlueToy · 11-13-2009, 05:38 PM

In all land rover manuals what Americans call the draglink is called the track rod, a pitman arm is called a drop arm, What americans call the track rod is a Panhhard rod. Hope this clears up some confusion.

PTSchram · 11-15-2009, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBlueToy

In all land rover manuals what Americans call the draglink is called the track rod, a pitman arm is called a drop arm, What americans call the rack rod is a Panhhard rod. Hope this clears up some confusion.

I don't know where you learned to speak American and translate to English.

The arm that comes off of the steering box is the drop arm.

The tube that runs between the drop arm and the right steering knuckles (LHD) is the cross tube.

The tube that runs between the left and right knuckles is the track rod.

The Panhard rod is a solid rod that runs from the frame to the axle to maintain the position of the front axle.

FWIW, in later years, Land Rover began to use the term drag link, etc. but fo rthe vintage of trucks most of us are discussing, the above nomenclature is consistent with the FSM.

BigBlueToy · 11-15-2009, 06:37 PM

My mother is from Lancashire and I live in french Canada, 15 minutes from Vermont. and every thing I typed came straight out of the 4 Land Rover shop manuals sitting beside my Mac.

Buckon37s · 11-15-2009, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cptyarderho

my steering wheel needs to come off then. I would like to switch to a smaller wheel anyway, I just do not want to spend the $$$ for the momo setup. I need to find a way to mount one of those cheap ones I see in all the Jeep catalogs.

I have a custom AL adapter to run a grant or apc wheel. You need it?

cptyarderho · 11-15-2009, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buckon37s

I have a custom AL adapter to run a grant or apc wheel. You need it?

Sure, what do you need for it? What wheels were you using with it?

Buckon37s · 11-15-2009, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cptyarderho

Sure, what do you need for it? What wheels were you using with it?

I dunno, whatever you think is fair, enough to get me to go to ups.

It's a five bolt pattern same as some grants. No adapter. The horn will not work with it. I was using a $10 steering wheel.

If you want to go sexy, and have a spare steering wheel, I can make you a nice one like I made for myself for a MOMO or sparco. The adapter that you can still find is really cheeseball.

cptyarderho · 11-15-2009, 10:25 PM

how does $20 plus shipping sound?
This would be on an RRC, my horn is on the end of the turn signal. Are the bolt patterns the same?

Buckon37s · 11-15-2009, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cptyarderho

how does $20 plus shipping sound?
This would be on an RRC, my horn is on the end of the turn signal. Are the bolt patterns the same?

Not sure. What bolt pattern are you talking about? It is splined for the shaft. I know it will fit. The pattern is 5 hole which APC and Grant use but not on all of the steering wheels. I had it made for a wheel. But Grant has a 3 hole and 5 hole pattern that I have seen. If it won't work for you, you can send it back to me. I have had it sitting in the garage for a long time.

edit: $20 is fine

cptyarderho · 11-16-2009, 07:33 AM

Buck- pm sent, sounds good to me.

10-26-2009, 08:02 PM	#1
BigBlueToy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Member # 88052 Location: Montreal Posts: 562	steering box center??? So I have almost completed my power steering install in my Defender 90 using a D1 box. I have centered the steering wheel and box, 3.5 turns lock to lock, so I centered it at 1.75 turns per side. My wheels are straight and I have the 924mm from balljoint center to balljoint center that the Landrover workshop manual specifed for the track rod. But the drop arm is offset slightly to the drivers side. Is this normal? Last edited by BigBlueToy; 10-26-2009 at 08:02 PM.

11-08-2009, 06:53 AM	#4
tony cordell Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Member # 21218 Location: Somerset England Posts: 199	Also prevents the box hitting the internal stops if you lose one of the Lock stop bolts. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?sh...=&fromsearch=1 __________________ Tony Defender 90-Modified Last edited by tony cordell; 11-08-2009 at 06:56 AM.

11-08-2009, 10:37 AM	#5
PTSchram Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Member # 12499 Location: In the office writing letters to Land Rover's attorney, trying to stay in business, Posts: 7,928	If you read the manual closer, you will notice that the dimension given is only there to get you in the ballpark and that further adjustment is going to be necessary. __________________ Wrenchin' to riches!

11-08-2009, 12:58 PM	#6
tony cordell Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Member # 21218 Location: Somerset England Posts: 199	I think that is clear in the thread? __________________ Tony Defender 90-Modified

11-12-2009, 08:10 PM	#10
evilfij Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Member # 7755 Location: Main Line PA Posts: 1,928	Lift requires you to slightly lengthen the drag link. I always try to center the arm on the box. __________________ :evil:

10-27-2009, 02:56 PM	#3
BigBlueToy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Member # 88052 Location: Montreal Posts: 562	Is this to compensate for the ball joint hole being offset from center in the knuckle?

11-08-2009, 05:36 PM	#8
BigBlueToy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Member # 88052 Location: Montreal Posts: 562	I centered the steering box, Adjusted the the track rod to 924mm, and the fawkin thing tracks straight as an arrow at max speed of 120km/h. Too easy!

11-13-2009, 07:13 AM	#11
cptyarderho Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Member # 14944 Location: Crozet, Va Posts: 628	Mine is off to the driver's side a bit, must be an LR thing. When you center the steering wheel and mount the shaft, the box is not centered on mine. It has nothing to do with the track rod. __________________ 92 RRC. Wheels like butt. 68 IIA. ww.ROAV.org

11-13-2009, 01:25 PM	#13
cptyarderho Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Member # 14944 Location: Crozet, Va Posts: 628	my steering wheel needs to come off then. I would like to switch to a smaller wheel anyway, I just do not want to spend the $$$ for the momo setup. I need to find a way to mount one of those cheap ones I see in all the Jeep catalogs. __________________ 92 RRC. Wheels like butt. 68 IIA. ww.ROAV.org

11-13-2009, 05:38 PM	#14
BigBlueToy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Member # 88052 Location: Montreal Posts: 562	In all land rover manuals what Americans call the draglink is called the track rod, a pitman arm is called a drop arm, What americans call the track rod is a Panhhard rod. Hope this clears up some confusion. Last edited by BigBlueToy; 11-15-2009 at 06:37 PM.

11-15-2009, 06:37 PM	#16
BigBlueToy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Member # 88052 Location: Montreal Posts: 562	My mother is from Lancashire and I live in french Canada, 15 minutes from Vermont. and every thing I typed came straight out of the 4 Land Rover shop manuals sitting beside my Mac.

11-15-2009, 10:25 PM	#20
cptyarderho Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Member # 14944 Location: Crozet, Va Posts: 628	how does $20 plus shipping sound? This would be on an RRC, my horn is on the end of the turn signal. Are the bolt patterns the same? __________________ 92 RRC. Wheels like butt. 68 IIA. ww.ROAV.org Last edited by cptyarderho; 11-15-2009 at 10:26 PM.

11-16-2009, 07:33 AM	#22
cptyarderho Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Member # 14944 Location: Crozet, Va Posts: 628	Buck- pm sent, sounds good to me. __________________ 92 RRC. Wheels like butt. 68 IIA. ww.ROAV.org

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