how much driveline angle?

[dieselcruiserhead]

Got my driveshafts done and went to put the rear one in and it is binding with the current angle. I'm pissed, just spent a small fortune on them, I guess I'll have to dig up a CV joint and put that in?

Rear shaft is Toyota mini truck rear flange on one side, Dodge slip yoke and flange on the other from a Dodge NP241. It's the Dodge side that is binding up

Total driveshaft length is 35.5" taking necessary compression into account. It should have better angles but it's the Dodge crappy design. Rear output is quite a bit higher maybe 8" to a foot than axle, comes out at 90 degrees. Mini truck points up at stock rear axle mini truck angle, maybe 8 degrees? I should have measured. Currently the ujoint binds on 1/2 the rotations, but when not binding only drops about 2" below where the flange is.

I guess my best option is a CV joint? How much more driveline angle do you think I'll need? Rear axle uses minitruck width perches, 6" of lift, 35s. Centered rear. The springs are stiff, they don't like to come up but will drop very easily. I will have long shocks and decent articulation but nothing insane. I don't want to spend a shitload on a high nagle driveline, I guess unless I absolutely have to. Ideas? Anyone have a Toy mini truck CV they want to part with? The tubes are 2.5"

[HeyBeerMan]

Sounds like you need to cut and weld your perches so your pinion points directly (or a few degrees below) the output. Then get the CV your talking about.



beerman

[Tankota]

Sounds like you need to cut and weld your perches

If it is the rear axle then I agree. If it is the front one then he needs to cut and turn the knuckles.

Diesel...what is this rig?
Another option is to get going with the grinder to clearance those yokes (ps don't grind on the part that hold the u-joint in...grind on the part that the u-joint hits).

[HeyBeerMan]

Originally posted by Tankota


If it is the rear axle then I agree. If it is the front one then he needs to cut and turn the knuckles.

Diesel...what is this rig?
Another option is to get going with the grinder to clearance those yokes (ps don't grind on the part that hold the u-joint in...grind on the part that the u-joint hits).

Yup that too!

[dieselcruiserhead]

It's the rear axle the front is already cut and turned. I need to work on the rear axle anyways the current perches are about 1/2" too wide and I simply stretched the leafs to make it fit. But I don't think it'll rotate up that much.

I was thinking about grinding and almost broke out the grinder last night. But since it's a DDer it won't f-up the balance or I guess grind then rebalnace? It's a land cruiser FJ55 wagon...

[dieselcruiserhead]

Question: how much driveline angle do you think I would need for say a foot of droop on each side on a centered rear axle. I'll be running probably 14" travel shocks with about 4-5" for compression and the rest for droop. So how much would the axle drop and should I account for in the driveshaft?

[Oil burnin']

Ummm just so you know with a reguar drive shaft (no cv joints) the flanges are suposed to be with 1/2* of each other or you will get vibration. 8* on the rear axle and level on the T case isn't going to work unless you put in a CV joint.

[dieselcruiserhead]

I've heard that before but find that reality and that number are not always right. I had a very similar (if not bigger) rear angle in my previous cruiser (also an oil burner ) and never had vibration. I figured I would try it I'm trying to do it as cheap as possible but working well of course... I think at this point my only option is, unfortunately, a CV in the rear. Which will unfortunately cost some $$ I guess I'll find out exactly how much tomorrow...

[fabricator]

i may have a toyota cv......pm me if you still need one