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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Member # 2769
Location: Farmington NM
Posts: 1,874
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Custom "Front-Rear" "In-Out" billet Atlas knobs?
First off, I envy all of you who can keep all their transmission, brake, and rear axel switches and levers in their heads and can seamlessly use them with apparent ease. I'm old and don't get enough seat time so in the heat of competitions I sometimes loose track of what I'm supposed to be doing to get the brakes and levers set up for front and rear digs. I guess that's the price I'm now paying for all the things I smoked and swallowed back in my hippie daze in the late 60's.
I'd appreciate it if someone could tell me where I can get a set of the bling, bling, Atlas shifter knobs I saw in some pics from this spring's EJS. They were billet with one knob red anodized and the other blue. One knob had "Front" at the top plus "In" and "Out" with vertical double headed arrows between. The other (color) had "Rear" on top plus the in and out with arrows. The color codes plus the arrow reminders would really help me remember which of the twin sticks to pull for either a front or rear dig. I have a three position momentary rocker switch controlling 2 line locks ... activating the lock neutralizes either the fore or aft brakes so the petal pressure holds only one axel. Doing it this way allows for feathering your positon with the petal. The switch is momentary so upon release all brakes are active. (Thanks for the tip, Dustin … who advised that he’s seen this type of setup back fire using regular toggles because when drivers who couldn’t flip the switch back in time when all brakes were suddenly needed.) The ideas is to pull the correct stick (red or blue) and press the momentary toggle towards the correct direction that's correspondingly color coded. If this system doesn’t work out then I’ll try levers for turn brakes I guess … ... but I'd still want a set of those knobs! Last edited by Jaffer; 07-24-2004 at 09:32 AM. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6815
Location: Phooenix, AZ
Posts: 1,568
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Here ya go... http://www.litegrip.com/transfercase.php
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Well this sucks... |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Member # 1352
Location: PNW
Posts: 2,679
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Here are some custom one-off knobs that Summit Machine (maker of the Jimmy Joint) made for Johnny G in his new K2 comp rig that Mt. Logan built. They might be worth contacting.
custom Atlas knob1 custom Atlas knob2 Last edited by TDW; 07-24-2004 at 10:50 AM. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Member # 24868
Location: Draper, UT
Posts: 316
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Bling Knobs
Yep we made Johnny G some cool stuff. Keep your eyes peeled in the vendors section for new stuff.
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#5 |
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Zeus of the Sluice
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http://www.rocklogic4x4.com/products...lletmounts.htm
same things only cheaper. this is where I got mine from.
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408ci aussified, SEFI, 70mm throttle body, 90mm mass air, stang harness, tweecer R/T, 203-205 doubler, 5.13's, 39.5 iroks on dubs dysfunctional wt4wheeling Tellico #364 Want to help a "Little guy" race at King of the Hammers? |
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#6 |
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Low Range Drifter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Member # 7903
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 2,129
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One thing that could make it even easier would be two knobs with different shapes. One ball and octagon or something like that. That would allow you to go by feel rather than having to look down, which just might save you some time.
I can't imagine it would take much to do that. Heck, you could probably even just put some rough edges on one of the stock shifter knobs and see if that would be enough. I know after a couple of years, the print is wore off one of the knobs anyway, I'm guessing if you're using it comp it wouldn't even last that long.
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2001 TJ Now with 4.7 V8 power : 1975 Wagoneer |
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Member # 2769
Location: Farmington NM
Posts: 1,874
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[quote=JohnnyJ]One thing that could make it even easier would be two knobs with different shapes.That would allow you to go by feel rather than having to look down, which just might save you some time.
QUOTE] That's a GREAT idea, Johnny! Thanks for the links, Guys .. |
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#8 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Member # 2769
Location: Farmington NM
Posts: 1,874
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Quote:
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22342
Location: Big Bear Calif.
Posts: 782
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Repeat this 100 times everyday.
Left knob is front.....left knob is front....left knob is front..
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Pete |
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#10 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 21898
Location: Logan, UT
Posts: 89
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I would go with Summit Machine knobs. They can build them anyway you like them, I think any shape, size, color, etc. Their quality is hands down the best I have seen when it comes to aluminum fabrication (links, knobs, etc.) They also build the Jimmy Joint.
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#11 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Member # 2769
Location: Farmington NM
Posts: 1,874
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Quote:
To score better, I've got to start doing more rear digs plus now I have a second ARB switch to contend with plus another set of switches for the brake selenoids on top of that! I know with practice it will become second nature but until that day I'm just trying to set the new rig up to make it easier to remember with visual cues on both the sticks and the switches. Last edited by Jaffer; 07-26-2004 at 06:25 AM. |
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22342
Location: Big Bear Calif.
Posts: 782
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Just busting your balls Jaf. Do whatever it takes for you to remember.
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Pete |
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 39
Location: San Martin, CA
Posts: 3,245
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Just get some knobs from Grainger. They are about $1.50 each. Not bling, but they work. You can get different shapes.
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Eric Parts for Sale --> D44 shafts, 6 lug rims, air tank |
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