DIY Vehicle Painting

[slidewaysxj]

I have a 90 XJ that i just lifted and tired. Its a Wagoneer with the wood sides and all the bells/gadgets. Currently it has a gunmetal silver factory color with a good deal of lamination. I want to sand it down and shoot it gloss black (keeping the wood).

I'd just like to hear some advice to see what everyone thought i should do. I guess i have to take it down pretty far to get rid of the lamination. I'll be buying a sander and a gun to do this but i dont really know anything besides it has to be around 800 grit before i paint it.

I want it to be good looking so no spray bombs or rattle cans. I may Herculine the flares though

Thanks!

[Dalec]

I think you should get your mind right, n00b.

[geberhard]

check the thread on my sig

[slidewaysxj]

That was pretty helpful. I'm just wondering about the primer/sealer. If i need to sand it down to 800 or 1000 and then seal it or just shoot the primer.



PS: Screw Yew Dalec..

[RampageFSJ]

Originally Posted by geberhard

check the thread on my sig

You`re awsome! I was also needing that info soon.

[MrWillys]

Follow all directions to the "T". Shoot the primer first and sand that dry with 180 and a 17" board. If you've really got a rough surface such as 36 grit, then repeat this step. Then prime again and sand with 4, or 500 grit. Seal it with a sealer close in color to your topcoat and then apply topcoat. I would really try and discourage you from shooting black or any dark color or metalics for ones first paint job. Choose a light solid color as it will hide some of the mistakes a first timer will make.

[GiS]

1. Rough up the old paint with the BBQ brush from the backyard.
2. Dont mask a thing...
3. Spray bomb till you can longer use your index fingers.

-Joe

[braxton357]

Originally Posted by GiS

1. Rough up the old paint with the BBQ brush from the backyard.
2. Dont mask a thing...
3. Spray bomb till you can longer use your index fingers.

-Joe

This is my preferred method too, but I got lazy and bought a scotchbrite thing for a drill and a trigger/handle for the spraypaint cans. Works well.

[SHINTON]

This might be of interest to you, I wrote it a year or so ago, my $80 paint job.

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/cheap_paint/

Just as an update, it has held up really well with the trail abuse over the last year or so. I need to touch up a couple small places on my bumpers (from beating in/out ujoints, heh) but otherwise it all looks decent.

If I really cared I could probably wax it now and make it really stand out. We also "wish" we would have located Rustoleum clear in quart size...but then again it is a TRAIL rig paint job so...

Sam

[RampageFSJ]

I have painted a couple of trailers before so I`m not exactly a beginner. The truck that I`m working on has been primered by the last owner.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...J/100_0652.jpg
Does it look any good to you guys? It is a little ruff in some places but I can sand that down. And there is some surface rust on the top of the bedsides that I can take care of.

[Eskimo]

It's a 1990 XJ. WHy spent all that time to try and get glossy paint? Rustoleum the bitch so that touch-ups are just a spray-bomb away...

We used Rustoleum on my whole rig and it looks great from 5 feet..

[77'/85'scottspecial]

www.autobody101.com

[Halogrinder]

Originally Posted by RampageFSJ

I have painted a couple of trailers before so I`m not exactly a beginner. The truck that I`m working on has been primered by the last owner.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...J/100_0652.jpg
Does it look any good to you guys? It is a little ruff in some places but I can sand that down. And there is some surface rust on the top of the bedsides that I can take care of.

no. it looks like the primer you have on the vehicle is waterbased...

i.e. the rust coming thru it. the only way to "Seal" the metal is with a non water based primer. water based primer "breathes", meaning the rattle can primer you get at VatoZone is not what you want on a truck that is going to get a paint job better than maaco or earl shieb. if your going to rattle can it, scuff and shoot it. if your actually attempting a decent paint job, the ONLY way your going to get decent results is to sand it down COMPLETLY to the metal, and shoot it with a acid etching primer or solvent based primer. it would be reccommended to go buy a gallon of primer, like dupont or something quality. prime, 220 sand, prime again over body work, 400 wet sand, prime entire vehicle again, 400 sand everything and then shoot it with a tough paint like Imron paint. this is the same shit used by the UPS trucks, aircrafts and bigrigs. its a single stage, so dont worry about clearcoating it, and it is tough as HELL..... you can eat bush with it all day and it comes out great. i would prolly go with white as a first paint job. the darker the paint the harder it will be. take your time on the body work and prep. it will make or break your paint job.....
hell look at what i did to my old farm truck..lol
took 3 months after work and weekends for the body work after the tree and i had a fight.
took 3 days to get the door handles (or lack of) to look right....
3 hours to get rid of the antenna
the flames took over 10 hours to tape off and mask.
about 4 hours to shoot it.
take your time!

[RampageFSJ]

I don`t need it to be real pretty. It ain`t a show truck. I was wanting to do a rattle can job and keep it simple. Do I need to sand down some on the primer, and re-primer it, then shoot my color on it and then clear coat?

[Halogrinder]

if your gonna rattle can it, sand off the rust with 400 or 600 and shoot it. dont try to rattle clear it. it will come out even more shittier. im gonna be shooting my fj40 w/ rattle can....buy the best rattle can you can get too...lol
i got a few pics of shit painted in my thread on my cruisah

[RampageFSJ]

Allright, thanks for the info.