Starting A Samurai Project

dabomb5756 · 12-08-2005, 07:45 PM

First off, who decided to put the hood release in the glove box?!?! I was out while snowing in 10 degree weather for a good 1/2 hour looking for it! LOL

Well, i think i am choosing my samurai over my toyota to build up. Mainly because the toyota has a few rust holes in the frame.
The Samurai already has 3 inch lifted springs, but the rear leaf spring eyes on the rear springs are broken. So i plan on buying stock springs and a Rocky-Road Bolton Spring over axle kit, with OTT Steering, and DT Shocks. That should include everything i need, so i can get it done quickly with very little hassle. After i bolt it on, i will take it in to get the perches welded also.
For tires, i was thinking 31x 10.5 swampers TSL or LTB. I dont have the money to regear yet, so should i be alright? It is a stock engine, and i plan on doing all the regular work to it. Changing oil, coolant, diff and tranny fluids, fuel filter, etc. I am also gona mess with the carb and clean it a bit.
I also plan on welding the rear axle only.
I assume the axles will hold up to 31's and hopefully i will have enough power.

Now, on to wheeling. I have been wheelin my lifted ranger for quite some time and i am used to its massive 125 inch wheelbase. Should i take it easy at first with a little 80 inc WB on the hills and ledges? How is the stock rollcage? Will it somewhat protect me in a slow side or backwards rollover? I am only doing a 5 inch lift to keep my center of gravity down.
Next, i am wondering about the 1.3... How does it do on hills? Does the carb starve often?
Also, what are some good power options for the 1.3? What makes it perform best, Carb? Header? Pulleys?

Thanks everyone!

moto261 · 12-08-2005, 08:07 PM

sounds good you got the right idea

first off buy some stock springs form some one other then RR (or you will be waiting for them tell next x-mas)

2nd buy a 4to1 or lower

3rd weld the rear diff not the rear axel

4th get a cage for rockrat

5th go have fun

dabomb5756 · 12-08-2005, 08:33 PM

Yea yea, differential, whatever.
Is rockyroad really that bad? I really like their setups and how it includes everything.
Cage will be coming, but how is the stock front cab/cage?
4.1 depends on money situation...

I am looking around for swampers as we speak.

dabomb5756 · 12-08-2005, 09:03 PM

One more thing... How do i tell if i have a drop pitman arm? I am guessing the droped arm is about 4 inches tall. If someone can give me a rough estimate of the height of a stock pitman, that would help me identify what i have. Thanks!

moto261 · 12-08-2005, 09:19 PM

the stock one is almost stright the drop one has a fue " drop

and yes about RR do a search

Froad'r · 12-09-2005, 09:14 AM

I've got a stock zuk on 31's. Its not great without gearing, but it is doable. Good Luck!

Froad'r · 12-09-2005, 09:16 AM

Putting at least the 4.16 gears in the transfer case is a HUGE improvement. So when you have the money, that should definitely be one of the first directions you go.

zuku26 · 12-09-2005, 01:40 PM

I ran 33's with stock gearing and tranny for years. The only mods I had were drop in K&N, thorley header and 2 inch dual exhaust out each side under the doors. The mufflers were the short cherry bomb glasspacks. Had no problems beside not having a 5th gear. I ran the shit out of it. I would put some money in the motor. With 31's you should be fine. Let the sammy breath better and it'll do wonders.

catfish<>< · 12-09-2005, 02:16 PM

with stock gearing and 31's you will have to bonzi over everything or burn up the clutch or both

bob

www.extremewheelers4christ.org

zukatude · 12-09-2005, 02:49 PM

If you are wheeling ledges and hills, get a cage in ASAP. The stock bar and windshield may keep you from an injury, maybe not. If you do a back endo on a hill, you are in trouble without a cage.

IMO, you can't wheel 31"s without doing something about the tcase gears. Get the deepest gears you can afford. Lock or weld the rear diff and you can do a lot of trails. The stock 1.3 is totally gutless, that's why you really need to gear it down. At least for me, the stock carb works really well on steep stuff. I need a rope to keep me upright before the carb starves out.

Get some seat time before you build any bigger, have fun!

dabomb5756 · 12-09-2005, 04:05 PM

Is it possible to use the YJ Springs without SPOA? I dont really want to be very high, but i want lots of flex. If i did do that, i would be looking at about 3 inches of lift? Then i would trim alot of fender for flexin.
I'm gona do a search on RR, but i like their products alot better than breeze or TT or sky. Maybe its just me. Whats wrong? Bad Products or slow shipping/customer service?

pk · 12-09-2005, 07:19 PM

I have the 4.9:1 t-case gears and the Sidekick 6.68:1 thirds. It's ok with this gearing, but I'd sure like to get it down a bit more. The very first thing to do is lock those diffs up. You can't go anywhere without lockers. Lockers and gears are the most important things, I think. Then do the lift, SOA, bigger tires, ...

Hvy_Chevy · 12-09-2005, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dabomb5756

Is it possible to use the YJ Springs without SPOA? I dont really want to be very high, but i want lots of flex. If i did do that, i would be looking at about 3 inches of lift? Then i would trim alot of fender for flexin.

I've got YJs SUA (between 3" and 4" lift) and trimmed the fenders - can stuff (it's tight, but it works) a 33x10.5 in there.

Duck-it · 12-09-2005, 11:33 PM

stock carb works well on hills. header and two inch exhaust will help. no question on the gearing. its the most important part for these little motors.

dabomb5756 · 12-10-2005, 12:21 PM

Alright, Now im thinking YJ Springs. I think, even though everyone likes TT, i am going with a spring under RR kit.
That way i will have extra money to buy tcase gears sooner.

BTW, how hard is it to install T case Gears?

pk · 12-13-2005, 06:05 PM

It's very easy to install the T-Case Gears. Just make sure you clean everything as you go. I did it in a day, and it was my very first time at doing anything like that. The next day I installed lockers.

Engine Swap = Two days
Lockers = One Day
T-Case Gears = One Day
SOA = Two days.

And I'm a total beginner.

MorganM · 12-14-2005, 12:11 PM

I spent a good half hour searching for the hood release also

Traced all kinds of cables and cordes... then my friend yells; did you check the glove box? DUH!

Glad I'm not the only one!

DRKelly · 12-15-2005, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hvy_Chevy

I've got YJs SUA (between 3" and 4" lift) and trimmed the fenders - can stuff (it's tight, but it works) a 33x10.5 in there.

Hvy Chevy,

Do you have pics of your rig you could post or email? I just picked up a set of YJ springs and want to go with 33s, but don't want to lift it so high with them SPOA. I would rather put them SPUA and cut whatever is necessary out of the fenders.

CameronZuki · 12-15-2005, 11:10 AM

Stock YJs, SPOA, and gears is what one of my buddies has and it goes almost anywhere.

I installed 6.4s and the hardest thing about mine was the speedo bullet. It took me a couple of weeks, mainly because I could only work on it sparatically. That shits low though. I am going to go with 5.29s in my toy axles when I can get them in, and hopefully I can wheel it like that for a while.

dabomb5756 · 12-15-2005, 06:27 PM

OK, i am going with a SKY rear YJ kit, and a TT Missing Link Front YJ Kit.
Now, for shock mounts. I am gona keep the stock top shock mounts up front, and i will prolly get the adjustable shock mount for the top rear.
Now, i want a low mount on the axle. What are some alternatives to buying the crazy expensive weldon shock mounts? I dont think i can just weld on a bolt, but what about a piece of angle iron with a bolt welded on to that, welded on the axle?

axel9615 · 12-16-2005, 02:09 PM

ive seen that done, its works allright if you have a good enough weld

GoatSauce · 12-17-2005, 01:13 AM

QUOTE]Putting at least the 4.16 gears in the transfer case is a HUGE improvement. So when you have the money, that should definitely be one of the first directions you go.[/quote]

Think its better to spend the money for TCase gears first -or- axle gears?

I had been thinking 5.29's (FJ Axles, lowest I can get

) prior to TCase gears -

Benefit to doing TCase gears instead of axle gears?

littlejackass · 12-17-2005, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoatSauce

Think its better to spend the money for TCase gears first -or- axle gears?

I had been thinking 5.29's (FJ Axles, lowest I can get

) prior to TCase gears -

Benefit to doing TCase gears instead of axle gears?

Reducing the t-case is better in my opinion because with diff gears, you are gaining only 30% (4.10 to 5.29) - 40% (3.73-5.29) reduction from diff gears, while u are gaining a minimum of 84% reduction (2.268-4.16) in low range reduction and a minimum of 12% reduction in high range.

Hvy_Chevy · 12-17-2005, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRKelly

Hvy Chevy,

Do you have pics of your rig you could post or email? I just picked up a set of YJ springs and want to go with 33s, but don't want to lift it so high with them SPOA. I would rather put them SPUA and cut whatever is necessary out of the fenders.

build up semi-thread:
http://forum.neow.net/index.php?showtopic=40488

12-08-2005, 08:07 PM	#2
moto261 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 7897 Location: Olympia WA. Posts: 1,192	sounds good you got the right idea first off buy some stock springs form some one other then RR (or you will be waiting for them tell next x-mas) 2nd buy a 4to1 or lower 3rd weld the rear diff not the rear axel 4th get a cage for rockrat 5th go have fun Last edited by moto261; 12-08-2005 at 08:08 PM.

12-09-2005, 02:49 PM	#10
zukatude Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Member # 23056 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado Posts: 107	If you are wheeling ledges and hills, get a cage in ASAP. The stock bar and windshield may keep you from an injury, maybe not. If you do a back endo on a hill, you are in trouble without a cage. IMO, you can't wheel 31"s without doing something about the tcase gears. Get the deepest gears you can afford. Lock or weld the rear diff and you can do a lot of trails. The stock 1.3 is totally gutless, that's why you really need to gear it down. At least for me, the stock carb works really well on steep stuff. I need a rope to keep me upright before the carb starves out. Get some seat time before you build any bigger, have fun! __________________ 87 Sami: 1.6 16V, SPOA SR w/ YJs, locked 5.29 toys, 6.5:1 tcase, 35" MTRs, FJ60/Saginaw PS, Warn 8k Last edited by zukatude; 12-09-2005 at 02:53 PM.

12-09-2005, 07:19 PM	#12
pk Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Member # 37437 Location: 39.3754 -119.2498 (near Carson City) Posts: 559	I have the 4.9:1 t-case gears and the Sidekick 6.68:1 thirds. It's ok with this gearing, but I'd sure like to get it down a bit more. The very first thing to do is lock those diffs up. You can't go anywhere without lockers. Lockers and gears are the most important things, I think. Then do the lift, SOA, bigger tires, ... __________________ Wicked Zuk - By Dr. Smash. Wicked Fab Chassis, VW 1.6TD, Toyota Trans/T-Case Dual Marlin, D44/D60, custom everything.

12-13-2005, 06:05 PM	#16
pk Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Member # 37437 Location: 39.3754 -119.2498 (near Carson City) Posts: 559	It's very easy to install the T-Case Gears. Just make sure you clean everything as you go. I did it in a day, and it was my very first time at doing anything like that. The next day I installed lockers. Engine Swap = Two days Lockers = One Day T-Case Gears = One Day SOA = Two days. And I'm a total beginner. __________________ Wicked Zuk - By Dr. Smash. Wicked Fab Chassis, VW 1.6TD, Toyota Trans/T-Case Dual Marlin, D44/D60, custom everything.

12-14-2005, 12:11 PM	#17
MorganM Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Member # 22732 Location: Minnesota Posts: 101	I spent a good half hour searching for the hood release also Traced all kinds of cables and cordes... then my friend yells; did you check the glove box? DUH! Glad I'm not the only one! __________________ [ 1988 Suzuki Samurai ] [SIZE="1"]"Dont drive like my brother!" - Click & Clack[/SIZE]

12-08-2005, 09:19 PM	#5
moto261 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 7897 Location: Olympia WA. Posts: 1,192	the stock one is almost stright the drop one has a fue " drop and yes about RR do a search

12-09-2005, 09:14 AM	#6
Froad'r Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Member # 43877 Location: Emmett, ID Posts: 183	I've got a stock zuk on 31's. Its not great without gearing, but it is doable. Good Luck!

12-09-2005, 09:16 AM	#7
Froad'r Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Member # 43877 Location: Emmett, ID Posts: 183	Putting at least the 4.16 gears in the transfer case is a HUGE improvement. So when you have the money, that should definitely be one of the first directions you go.

12-09-2005, 01:40 PM	#8
zuku26 Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Member # 47805 Location: Chicago Posts: 65	I ran 33's with stock gearing and tranny for years. The only mods I had were drop in K&N, thorley header and 2 inch dual exhaust out each side under the doors. The mufflers were the short cherry bomb glasspacks. Had no problems beside not having a 5th gear. I ran the shit out of it. I would put some money in the motor. With 31's you should be fine. Let the sammy breath better and it'll do wonders.

12-09-2005, 02:16 PM	#9
catfish<>< Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Member # 40544 Location: Yucca Valley, CA Posts: 211	with stock gearing and 31's you will have to bonzi over everything or burn up the clutch or both bob www.extremewheelers4christ.org

12-09-2005, 11:33 PM	#14
Duck-it Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Member # 62352 Location: Dallas Oregon Posts: 20	stock carb works well on hills. header and two inch exhaust will help. no question on the gearing. its the most important part for these little motors.

12-15-2005, 11:10 AM	#19
CameronZuki Registered User Join Date: Jun 2005 Member # 48501 Posts: 220	Stock YJs, SPOA, and gears is what one of my buddies has and it goes almost anywhere. I installed 6.4s and the hardest thing about mine was the speedo bullet. It took me a couple of weeks, mainly because I could only work on it sparatically. That shits low though. I am going to go with 5.29s in my toy axles when I can get them in, and hopefully I can wheel it like that for a while.

12-16-2005, 02:09 PM	#21
axel9615 Wheeler Join Date: Feb 2004 Member # 27388 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 167	ive seen that done, its works allright if you have a good enough weld __________________ 86' Sammy 8" RRO Coil Kit with Yota axles, Ezlocker front, welded rear, 22RE, Yota Tranny and xcase, Stretched to 95", 36" Irocs, Shrockworks bumper and sliders, 4.7 xcase for now awaiting dual case

12-17-2005, 01:13 AM	#22
GoatSauce Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Member # 56620 Location: Big Sky Country Posts: 29	TCase gears vs Axle gears QUOTE]Putting at least the 4.16 gears in the transfer case is a HUGE improvement. So when you have the money, that should definitely be one of the first directions you go.[/quote] Think its better to spend the money for TCase gears first -or- axle gears? I had been thinking 5.29's (FJ Axles, lowest I can get ) prior to TCase gears - Benefit to doing TCase gears instead of axle gears?

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