Fawking Gas water heater

Johann · 02-22-2006, 02:46 PM

Hey all,

I could use a second opinion on this malfunction.

Direct vent Water heater keeps shutting itself down. I had a pipe burst and flood the pan about a month ago and I can't keep the thing lit now.

I suspect the pilot thermocouple but the dang tank is less than 2 years old. Worked fine for all but the last month of it

I even closed off some spaces in our foundation to be sure that it is not being knocked out by draft. Still went out! Also since I have had to relight it so many times I think the piezo lighting device has also crapped out on me!!!1

The only other symptom that concerns me it that the thing seems to be running rich since day one. It had soot above the vent on the outside of the house and I noticed soot on parts of the burner assembly when I popped the cover to take a look. Flame (when on) seems to spread across the entire base of the heater and lick out the inspection hole when open. Is this normal? We have a CO2 alarm and have never heard a peep from it.

Any ideas if these are related? Any other culprits to look at?

I am about ready to demo the whole place and start over. Since we moved in around 2000 we have replaced both HVAC units, the water heater, fixed the washer twice and the dryer once. The dishwasher is just bideing it time to break at the time of maximum inconvience. Windows need replacing and I am sure we will need a new roof in the next few years. Anyone looking for a house in the Raleigh area?

Thanks for any help or commiseration offered

Dieselmh · 02-22-2006, 03:19 PM

You need to disconnect the gas line and blow it out with a compressor. Our LP heaters need this at least once a year. You get crap built up in the line/valve, which makes it burn dirty, and will also cause the pilot light to not get the thermocouple hot enough to stay engaged. If you look closely when it's lit, you can probably see that the flame is curling up, instead of directly contacting the thermocouple. If it is, it definately needs to be cleaned.

Screwzer2 · 02-22-2006, 03:55 PM

Check your orifice!

Usually, there's an adjustable gate on the burner tube assembly, right before the burner and after the pilot. Usually a pie-shaped piece over a triangular hole. After cleaning everthing as mentioned B4, you can adjust your flame here to get the most efficient burn.

Pilot light blowing out could be condensation building up in the vent and dripping back down into the firebox area.

ImNotRight · 02-22-2006, 05:10 PM

ditto on the orifice.

take the burner out, and disconnect the line that goes to the pilot. there is a little cap in there with a teeny tiny ass hole, that is restricted, will cause these types of problems.

i usually use a wire from a wire brush.. tiny. also blow out the line backwards.

Screwzer2 · 02-22-2006, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImNotRight

ditto on the orifice.

take the burner out, and disconnect the line that goes to the pilot. there is a little cap in there with a teeny tiny ass hole, that is restricted, will cause these types of problems.

i usually use a wire from a wire brush.. tiny. also blow out the line backwards.

Yep, that too. Orifice is different from the air mixing "valve" I spoke of above. The valve is usally part of the burner assembly. The orifice is inside at the inlet side.

It will all make sense when you're looking at it.

Johann · 02-23-2006, 01:04 PM

It's not polite to talk about another persons Orifice

Thanks guys, I'll give it a look this evening. I think I get the concept of what to work on.

If I get it fixed I will do a happy dance. I am really tired of messing with this fawker. Percussive maintainance will occur if it gives me any crap! I have a brass hammer so I won't go

Johann · 02-23-2006, 01:07 PM

It's not polite to talk about another persons Orifice

Thanks guys, I'll give it a look this evening. I think I get the concept of what to work on.

If I get it fixed I will do a happy dance. I am really tired of messing with this fawker. Percussive maintainance will occur if it gives me any crap! I have a brass hammer so I won't go

FYRMAN · 02-23-2006, 06:24 PM

DO NOT STICK ANYTHING IN THE ORIFICE!!!!111!!!1

Sticking anything in the orifice runs the risk of enlarging the hole and making it run rich. You can adjust the air to match, but then it will not give the proper heat/amount of flame as designed.

Take the orifice out and soak it alcohol. If that doesn't clear it, REPLACE IT!

02-22-2006, 02:46 PM	#1
Johann Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Member # 4251 Location: NC USA Posts: 1,030	Fawking Gas water heater Hey all, I could use a second opinion on this malfunction. Direct vent Water heater keeps shutting itself down. I had a pipe burst and flood the pan about a month ago and I can't keep the thing lit now. I suspect the pilot thermocouple but the dang tank is less than 2 years old. Worked fine for all but the last month of it I even closed off some spaces in our foundation to be sure that it is not being knocked out by draft. Still went out! Also since I have had to relight it so many times I think the piezo lighting device has also crapped out on me!!!1 The only other symptom that concerns me it that the thing seems to be running rich since day one. It had soot above the vent on the outside of the house and I noticed soot on parts of the burner assembly when I popped the cover to take a look. Flame (when on) seems to spread across the entire base of the heater and lick out the inspection hole when open. Is this normal? We have a CO2 alarm and have never heard a peep from it. Any ideas if these are related? Any other culprits to look at? I am about ready to demo the whole place and start over. Since we moved in around 2000 we have replaced both HVAC units, the water heater, fixed the washer twice and the dryer once. The dishwasher is just bideing it time to break at the time of maximum inconvience. Windows need replacing and I am sure we will need a new roof in the next few years. Anyone looking for a house in the Raleigh area? Thanks for any help or commiseration offered __________________ Details removed for clarity

02-22-2006, 03:19 PM	#2
Dieselmh Hungry! Join Date: Aug 2001 Member # 6417 Posts: 1,798	You need to disconnect the gas line and blow it out with a compressor. Our LP heaters need this at least once a year. You get crap built up in the line/valve, which makes it burn dirty, and will also cause the pilot light to not get the thermocouple hot enough to stay engaged. If you look closely when it's lit, you can probably see that the flame is curling up, instead of directly contacting the thermocouple. If it is, it definately needs to be cleaned. __________________ Everything I type is good natured flaming in the name of fun, not mean spirited or vicious bullshit.

02-22-2006, 05:10 PM	#4
ImNotRight Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Member # 19666 Location: Napa, CA transplant. Posts: 1,166	ditto on the orifice. take the burner out, and disconnect the line that goes to the pilot. there is a little cap in there with a teeny tiny ass hole, that is restricted, will cause these types of problems. i usually use a wire from a wire brush.. tiny. also blow out the line backwards. __________________ "Eco-friendly" is just another way of saying "Our product doesn't work for shit"

02-23-2006, 01:04 PM	#6
Johann Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Member # 4251 Location: NC USA Posts: 1,030	It's not polite to talk about another persons Orifice Thanks guys, I'll give it a look this evening. I think I get the concept of what to work on. If I get it fixed I will do a happy dance. I am really tired of messing with this fawker. Percussive maintainance will occur if it gives me any crap! I have a brass hammer so I won't go __________________ Details removed for clarity

02-23-2006, 01:07 PM	#7
Johann Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Member # 4251 Location: NC USA Posts: 1,030	It's not polite to talk about another persons Orifice Thanks guys, I'll give it a look this evening. I think I get the concept of what to work on. If I get it fixed I will do a happy dance. I am really tired of messing with this fawker. Percussive maintainance will occur if it gives me any crap! I have a brass hammer so I won't go __________________ Details removed for clarity

02-22-2006, 03:55 PM	#3
Screwzer2 The Antithesis Join Date: Nov 2004 Member # 38193 Location: Nevada City, CA under a bridge Posts: 293	Check your orifice! Usually, there's an adjustable gate on the burner tube assembly, right before the burner and after the pilot. Usually a pie-shaped piece over a triangular hole. After cleaning everthing as mentioned B4, you can adjust your flame here to get the most efficient burn. Pilot light blowing out could be condensation building up in the vent and dripping back down into the firebox area.

02-23-2006, 06:24 PM	#8
FYRMAN Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Member # 4358 Location: otHELLo, Washington Posts: 3,605	DO NOT STICK ANYTHING IN THE ORIFICE!!!!111!!!1 Sticking anything in the orifice runs the risk of enlarging the hole and making it run rich. You can adjust the air to match, but then it will not give the proper heat/amount of flame as designed. Take the orifice out and soak it alcohol. If that doesn't clear it, REPLACE IT! __________________ Central Washington Muff Dive and Rescue Team

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