small detatched garage plans

[Sundowner]

I see a lot of people who put up big garages in this forum and others, but I don't see a lot of anything useful for the suburbanites with smaller lots ,wives who won't tolerate a steel building, and don't have an operating budget of $50k.

Bieng that I do have all these constraints, I have laid out and planned a smaller garage that will fit on my yard, will make my wife happy, and should cost less than $10k to build.

the design is 6x6 nom. timber framing. the joints are simple and explicitly detailed. and it's nice enough that I think it could serve as duty as a detatched in-law suite or guest house.

plan layout is 20'x16' with a 10'x12' loft area and 8' open area to the rafters.

the final plans would be fully detailed and designed by a registered professional structural engineeer.

what, if any, interest in purchasing plans for this type of structure, and what would you pay for a set of plans?

here's the front and side elevations of the building

[ironpig70]

a custom one off garage will cost more in the long run than a steel building. you see steel buildings are "cookie cutter" style which means the company makes one set of plans and then pays for those plans by dividing the cost by all the buildings they sell. and i understand that alot of us can't have a steel building. i'd say that you're likely to pay 60-100 an hour for an architect/engeneer to draw up your plans and run calculations. i'd open up the phone book and call around and get some quotes.

[Sundowner]

Originally Posted by ironpig70

a custom one off garage will cost more in the long run than a steel building. you see steel buildings are "cookie cutter" style which means the company makes one set of plans and then pays for those plans by dividing the cost by all the buildings they sell. and i understand that alot of us can't have a steel building. i'd say that you're likely to pay 60-100 an hour for an architect/engeneer to draw up your plans and run calculations. i'd open up the phone book and call around and get some quotes.

I AM the engineer.

[Travis Waldher]

For $10,000 you are going to build that.

Including pouring a cement floor and foundation for a "2 story" building?

This I gotta see.

I'm looking at doing similar, only 20x30 or so, and realistically I'm looking at 30k or so. that is me doing ALL of the work, desigining, general contracting, etc. Except for the cement work.

Even then, that won't get me a driveway leading up to it.

[D60]

Originally Posted by Sundowner

what, if any, interest in purchasing plans for this type of structure, and what would you pay for a set of plans?

You're not going to like this answer, but I'd probably pay 50% what I'd pay to have it drawn up locally. Like Ironpig said, I dont' think you're looking at huge money to have this done, several hours of work maybe. And if you can copy another set that you might get from a friend or whatever, just about anyone can draw this up and then pay $100 or so to have an engineer draft a letter stating it's sufficient for local codes (this is what I had to do w my previous shop). Once you get a letter from an engineer, my county at least does not hardly look at the plans after that - they just want to see the letter.

A few considerations: snow load and foundation requirements will vary widely from area to area. And if you're wanting living quarters upstairs each jurisdiction will have requirements on firewalls.

My point............let's say someone could pay $500 for your plans and then still have to modify and tweak them a little to meet local requirements, or they could walk down to a local architect/engineer and have them draw something up that is guaranteed to work for $800 or $900, which would you choose?

I completely understand that some people cannot have a steel buidling, but on the price argument I'd be curious to price that structure against a comparable "ugly" steel building. I bet in many areas $50k to build what you have there is not out of the question at all, esp if the homeowner does not general it. There's more labor in stick-built, and all the siding and brickwork you have pictured adds up.

I was told by three different contractors in my area to expect an absolute minimum of $100/sq ft stick built, and that was assuming normal 8' ceilings. So with your 320 sq ft structure a homeowner here would be facing $32,000.00 and that does take into account any of the extras like the loft or more fancy exterior.

[Sundowner]

Originally Posted by D60

You're not going to like this answer, but I'd probably pay 50% what I'd pay to have it drawn up locally. Like Ironpig said, I dont' think you're looking at huge money to have this done, several hours of work maybe. And if you can copy another set that you might get from a friend or whatever, just about anyone can draw this up and then pay $100 or so to have an engineer draft a letter stating it's sufficient for local codes (this is what I had to do w my previous shop). Once you get a letter from an engineer, my county at least does not hardly look at the plans after that - they just want to see the letter.

A few considerations: snow load and foundation requirements will vary widely from area to area. And if you're wanting living quarters upstairs each jurisdiction will have requirements on firewalls.

My point............let's say someone could pay $500 for your plans and then still have to modify and tweak them a little to meet local requirements, or they could walk down to a local architect/engineer and have them draw something up that is guaranteed to work for $800 or $900, which would you choose?

I completely understand that some people cannot have a steel buidling, but on the price argument I'd be curious to price that structure against a comparable "ugly" steel building. I bet in many areas $50k to build what you have there is not out of the question at all, esp if the homeowner does not general it. There's more labor in stick-built, and all the siding and brickwork you have pictured adds up.

I was told by three different contractors in my area to expect an absolute minimum of $100/sq ft stick built, and that was assuming normal 8' ceilings. So with your 320 sq ft structure a homeowner here would be facing $32,000.00 and that does take into account any of the extras like the loft or more fancy exterior.

hey, all constructive input is welcome

my thoughts were about $250 for a set of plans

the garage is geared for the DIY type, so the cost is just materials.
6x6 timber frame was chosen becuase a pole-type foundation is drastically less costly than a continuous footer below the frost line, and the timbers rae small enough for two men to comfortably erect the frame. I have planned the floor to use about one truck load of concete, or about 10 yards.

the exterior, as you see it, is just Smartside, which is a OSB version of T-111. the bottom two feet is just rock veneer over wonderboard backer. this allows a 10' height wall without a horizontal joint in the 4x8 sheets of siding.

the doors are also constructed of the same OSB panelleing with interior rigid insulation and framing. doors are expensive, and you can realize huge savings by making your own out of relatively cheap materials.

I think 2 guys with no heavy equipment could probably put up this structure ins a summer's worth of weekends. It'll be laoded and coded to north east requirements, but it's a good point about regional snow load, I'll check it against some place like Minnesota

[ironpig70]

for plans i'd say a couple hundred dollars is in the ball park. only problem i see is the pole barn design of 6x6 framing. don't know how code works every where and if i was doing a wood structure i'd like to go with 2x4 traditional framing. its easier to work with, easier to insulate, easier to sheetrock and easier to have outlets closer together. also with a composistion roof you'd have to worry about snow loads in certain areas of the country. just my .02.

[Dave_Lucas]

The following site and many others on the internet have garage plans. Might be worth spending a little time looking around at what others charge and see if you think it is worth your time/ effort.

http://www.dreamhomesource.com/resul...on=Next&Page=3

[Sundowner]

Originally Posted by ironpig70

for plans i'd say a couple hundred dollars is in the ball park. only problem i see is the pole barn design of 6x6 framing. don't know how code works every where and if i was doing a wood structure i'd like to go with 2x4 traditional framing. its easier to work with, easier to insulate, easier to sheetrock and easier to have outlets closer together. also with a composistion roof you'd have to worry about snow loads in certain areas of the country. just my .02.

no that's a fair assessment.
the timbers will be harder to initally erect.
you can't see it from that shot of the frame, but the posts and beams will all be 4' on center. overdesigned for the structure, but it makes it incredibly easy to put up 4'x8' sheet panels. between the posts and beams, there will be 2x3 "diaphragm" framing to reinforce the structure and create a void for insualtion and utilities. this also makes it easy to rip down commerical grade 4'x8' sheets of gloss whiteboard or whatever and cover over the infill side between the posts with no seams or joints.

the composition roof is a good point, and I ahd planned on infilling between the rafters with 2x4's and covering the infill area with insulation under beadboard.

[Sundowner]

Originally Posted by Dave_Lucas

The following site and many others on the internet have garage plans. Might be worth spending a little time looking around at what others charge and see if you think it is worth your time/ effort.

http://www.dreamhomesource.com/resul...on=Next&Page=3

eek. those are pricey.
maybe I'm undercutting myself

[ironpig70]

if the post are 4' on center like you stated then installing sheetrock over would be quick but a bitch to repair. instead of patching a 16" section i'd have to install a whole new 8' piece.

[Sundowner]

Originally Posted by ironpig70

if the post are 4' on center like you stated then installing sheetrock over would be quick but a bitch to repair. instead of patching a 16" section i'd have to install a whole new 8' piece.

the 4' void would be broken into three vertical bays of 16"-ish by using 2x3's.
this provides additional shear support for the panels and breaks the void down into standard construction units to fill with bat insulation.
you could patch the drywall same as you patch it in your house.

[suprzuk]

www.socketsystems.com ...... This is what I am planning on using when I build mine hopefully this coming summer.

[Proeliator]

You'd be surprised what you can do relatively cheap. I just finished a 24'x25' (maximum footprint city would allow) stickbuilt with 2x6 walls, fully insulated and sheetrocked, propane heat, 220v, running water, one tall bay and with short bay with a full loft overhead, for a hair under 15k. That included permits and everything. The only thing I sourced out was the stem wall and trusses, did everything else myself. Even at that I shopped around for the stem wall pour and trusses and got smoking deals. It would have been even cheaper if I didn't have to go with the oddball 24x25x15 max imposed by the city. Point is, you can build a pretty pimp smaller shop on the cheap.

[ironpig70]

Originally Posted by Sundowner

the 4' void would be broken into three vertical bays of 16"-ish by using 2x3's.
this provides additional shear support for the panels and breaks the void down into standard construction units to fill with bat insulation.
you could patch the drywall same as you patch it in your house.

2x3 or a true 2x4 think 2x4 is the way to go seeing how its a "standard" unit. one of the reason i like wood garages is because i can hang cabinets off the walls(more storage), metal is nic but sucks when you need to add wood walls. also with a venture like this many of us are going to be short cash so if it can be done in stages: build garage: insulate: sheetrock: one every year makes a big cost item a little easier. and i think your idea does this.

[YJRockBuggy]

On a stick built garage, can you build with an eave height of 14' or 16'? I am also in the planning stages, but I need a 14' tall garage door for our rig or trailer.

[Travis Waldher]

Originally Posted by Proeliator

You'd be surprised what you can do relatively cheap. I just finished a 24'x25' (maximum footprint city would allow) stickbuilt with 2x6 walls, fully insulated and sheetrocked, propane heat, 220v, running water, one tall bay and with short bay with a full loft overhead, for a hair under 15k. That included permits and everything. The only thing I sourced out was the stem wall and trusses, did everything else myself. Even at that I shopped around for the stem wall pour and trusses and got smoking deals. It would have been even cheaper if I didn't have to go with the oddball 24x25x15 max imposed by the city. Point is, you can build a pretty pimp smaller shop on the cheap.

How much, and what was the cement work you had done?

[Proeliator]

I contracted out the stem wall...standard 1' wide footing with the actual wall being 2' tall and 6" wide. That ran me just under $1800. I poured a 4" slab inside, had the mix delivered but did everything else (prep, rebar, etc) and that cost me just over $700. Basically all the 'crete for the whole job cost me about $2500. I see what some of the guys on here are getting stuck for and it makes me cringe. Then again, the finish on their slabs probably looks a whole hell of alot prettier than mine

[suprzuk]

Originally Posted by YJRockBuggy

On a stick built garage, can you build with an eave height of 14' or 16'? I am also in the planning stages, but I need a 14' tall garage door for our rig or trailer.

Check out www.socketsystems.com . One of the reasons that I am going this route is that you don't have any trusses in the way. You could keep a 10' or 12' sided wall and still have your 14' door come in the end wall. I am planning on putting a loft over half of my garage and leaving the other half open to the roof for a future lift.

[Sundowner]

Originally Posted by suprzuk

Check out www.socketsystems.com . One of the reasons that I am going this route is that you don't have any trusses in the way. You could keep a 10' or 12' sided wall and still have your 14' door come in the end wall. I am planning on putting a loft over half of my garage and leaving the other half open to the roof for a future lift.

those socket kits START at $225/bent!
my garage would be almost $2000 just in brackets.

[YJRockBuggy]

On a standard stick building, What's the highest eave height that can be done with no additional floors? (I would add a loft later on.) I figure if I go the standard stick route I could use stub walls to get where I need to be (14' tall garage door). It keeps looking like a steel building would be the cheaper way to go.

[suprzuk]

Originally Posted by Sundowner

those socket kits START at $225/bent!
my garage would be almost $2000 just in brackets.

Have you priced trusses lately ?
If you look at the plans for these buildings for a 24' wide building you only need one frame every 10' (dependant on snow loading). My plans for a 24' x 40' would only be $1125.

In my case I will save by having my lumber cut locally as well.

[Sundowner]

Originally Posted by suprzuk

Have you priced trusses lately ?
If you look at the plans for these buildings for a 24' wide building you only need one frame every 10' (dependant on snow loading). My plans for a 24' x 40' would only be $1125.

In my case I will save by having my lumber cut locally as well.

you're pricing the metal brackets vs. trusses, I'm pricing the metal brackets vs. wood joinery.

BTW, those brackets seem to be just off-the-shelf ASTM A500 Gr. B 6 x 6 x 1/4" wall square structural steel tubing that's been mitred and re-welded.

[willbeis]

Go to a real lumber yard with your plans and get them to price it as a package, lumber right down to the nails and screws. Ask if there is a discount for cash. There are cheaper ways to build.
Also ask for a recommendation for the concrete.

[jetboy]

I for one like the idea. I also like the design astheticly. I am planning to build a cabin in the next couple years. I think this would actually be a feasible design because it would be difficult and expensive to get a crane or grade all to where I need to go. although so will a cement truck... anyway I like the idea and the design, only worried about montana snow load. what is the roof pitch? I think 6-12 is preferable for me. doesnt look like this is steep enough, but it could be modified. or a metal roof seems to help. I don't have any codes BTW, or well, it will never be inspected. I still need it safe though.