shop soundproofing

[CPOM]

I have a shop setup in a large 1bay garage detached from the house. It is a very old building made of cobblestone and brick walls, with a wooden and slate roof. I have been getting complaints from the neghbors via a cop and an inspector guy who paid me a visit today. I would like to insulate the building for soundproofing. I researched some materials on mcmastercarr that include polyether flat foam sheets with a dampening factor of .8

These sheets I could drill and hang with tapcons in the mortar and big roofing washers. Material is about $2/sq which is the cheapest shown on the site with a high dampening rating and still in a bendable shape.

Does anyone have any experience soundproofing their garage or shop? I rent, so cheapo hack solutioins that are ugly but still work are encouraged.

The only insualation in the shop now is some thin plastic sheeting draped over the rafters.

[CPOM]

I checked out 4x8 sheets of polystyrene (styrofoam) at home depot which is designed for thermal insulation but I bet would work for sound insulation. It was very cheap the only problem was that the white, pink and foli faced yellow are all combustible. No way I am hanging that stuff in my garage. I just don't want to chance it, but maybe I am being too cautious. Right now the building is cobblestone and I heat it with a forced air propane shop heater so fire safety is a big thing.

Anyone else can recommend a good sound insulating barrier that is fireproof cheap but may not be necessarily designed for sound insulation?

[Dan84CJ7]

What part of your shop work is creating the noise?
Is it something like a compressor where you could just build a soundproof box around it? or is it a combination of grinding, cutting, etc that is making the noise?
Can you adjust your schedule to do the work at more appropriate hours? Assuming that the complaints are coming from night time hours. Seems like it would cost a lot to soundproof a place that you don't own.

[CPOM]

I run a standup Husky air compressor, miscellaneous cutting with angle grinder, The cutting is the big part.

I am going to launch a multi pronged initiative that includes an apologetic letter to my neighbors with my contact info, a visit to one of my neighbors who is a cop to ask him advice, clean up yard, prevent firends from coming over and working late at night, and refrain from power tool use after say 9pm. The insualtion is one of the last things and is really the only "tech" of my "mission". I hear you though...

I am going to focus on the wooden doors, ceiling and windows. The ceiling insualtion will proibably double as thermal insulation which will be great since I will have to run the propane heater less in the winter. If I go the mcmaster insulation route it will be flexible foam that can be rolled up and taken with me to my next residnece if I ever move.

[Reflexx]

Sound is vibration. Stop the vibration from getting out. Most soundproofing walls involve two layers that don't touch, so they don't transmit the vibrations.

super cheapo would be to hang (fireproof) blankets a few inches from the walls.

next step up would be to build 2x4 walls and attach some drywall with "resilliant beams" they don't let the sound that hits the drywall get to the 2x4's. perhaps mount these resilliant beams directly to the stone, then some paneling on top of that.

you are trying to create a room within a room with dead air space.

my 2c.

[jeeplord]

Originally Posted by Reflexx

next step up would be to build 2x4 walls and attach some drywall with "resilliant beams" they don't let the sound that hits the drywall get to the 2x4's.

In commercial applications we do something similar to this.

Build a 2x4 wall, fill with sound proofing insulation (Owens Corning Fiberglass works just as well. Pick up 1/2" sound channel (RC channel) from your local drywall supply store. Screw the RC channel perpendicular to the studs with a 24" spacing. Screw 5/8" drywall to the RC channel, not the studs.

Then drop in an accoustical ceiling (Armstrong ceiling tiles)

If your door is uninsulated, fill it with polystyrene foam board.

Build a cover for your compressor, and you should reduce your complaints significantly

[BMB]

Carpet.

Carpet can kill sound quite a bit. You can put it on the walls and probably reduce a good bit of the noise and might be able to get some for next to nothing from remodelers or apartment complexes replacing theirs.

I have heard of a few peope that like it on their floor as well. They say it is nice to lay on vs cold concrete and if they drop something it doesn't bounce or roll off. Might not be too bad if you don't weld or grind.

BMB

[hoohaa]

Buy earplugs for your neighbors if the apologetic letters and clean-up initiative proves fruitless.

In my experience a little insulation can really make a difference if you currently don't have anything. Even separating a section of the shop where you generate the most noise with a make-shift permanent or removeable will make a difference to the noise level outside.

[CPOM]

How do you guys feel about the flameability of exposed polystyrene insulation? Pink/blue/white styrofaom/ yellow with the foil backing. The label says "flammable, will burn if exposed to enough heat" . How would you feel leaving that stuff exposed in a shop where grinding and cutting is done often along with a propane heat source. I was thinking about doing the ceiling with polystyrene (since it is stiff and easy to hang) , then the better stuff for the walls or just simply hang carpet.

[DownNDirty]

I have the same problem with my neighbors, and I rent. I finally gave up. If they are going to mow their yards at 8 am on sat. then I am going to grind when I want. Insulating your roof won't help. Sound travels in waves, so those heading up are not going to annoy the neighbors much. I work for a generator company and when we do sound insulation to keep homeowners from complaining we just build a sound wall. Similar to what is used on highways. Theory is pretty simple. Sound traveling up will continue to travel up. People in the airplanes overhead won't compain. Focus on the doors. They will have the biggest impact for the money. Fill the garage door with the poly foam that is flammable and be careful where you cut and grind or glue carpet to the doors. it is flammable too, and collects dirt and dust though. Put in the polyfoam, then cover with the foil insulation to keep sparks at bay.

[DaDunc205x]

i haven't read all the posts but have you tried drywall. its cheap and dense. the density makes it hard for sound to escape. Think of stereo stores, they usually have glass doors(very dense). another cheap alternative it egg crates. you can get big sheets from machine shops or platers, the construction of it deflects the sound.

[woody99]

http://www.soundsuckers.com/barriers.htm#barriers and drywall on top. If you pay property taxes fawk them! or just buy a plasma cutter. I found that I did less and less grinding and cutting when I got mine and the sound is MUCH quieter.

[Damo]

Originally Posted by CPOM

I run a standup Husky air compressor, miscellaneous cutting with angle grinder, The cutting is the big part.

I am going to launch a multi pronged initiative that includes an apologetic letter to my neighbors with my contact info, a visit to one of my neighbors who is a cop to ask him advice, clean up yard, prevent firends from coming over and working late at night, and refrain from power tool use after say 9pm. The insualtion is one of the last things and is really the only "tech" of my "mission". I hear you though...

I am going to focus on the wooden doors, ceiling and windows. The ceiling insualtion will proibably double as thermal insulation which will be great since I will have to run the propane heater less in the winter. If I go the mcmaster insulation route it will be flexible foam that can be rolled up and taken with me to my next residnece if I ever move.

A pretty decent approach I think. Definitly look at shutting up that compressor. An insulated box around it should work, but make sure you make it with ventilation as it would surly get hot under there.

Also think about changing noisy tools for quiet ones, eg, bandsaw is a hell of a lot quiter than a chopsaw. You'll save on cleanup too with a lot less abrasive dust all over the place. Another suggestion, rather than using a hand drill on something, take it over to the drill press.

Another thing I can suggest is that in your letter perhaps word it that you can help them out with things, eg, it will take you 5 minutes to weld up the next door neighbour's kid's bike, but that 5 minutes will earn you a bunch of good will.

[javelinpr]

its either be "good" or be "bad". you can try everything about soundproofing, talking to them will help and know what are their complaints about(grinding, air comp., maybe impact hammers or even that horde of friends(drunk) cheering when the rig started right up and you reving the rig much much more). Try everything to stop their complaints, personally i dont recommend to put valuable tools as a compressor in a box without enough air and space to access it. being a bootlicker and doing free work to them may help stop their complains but if that doesnt work proceed to the bad attitude.

i rent too so i know your situation. go directly to the police station and ask about sound law and all that crap. after you have that figured start doing everything as the law says if it says sounds until 9pm then do noise as a motherfawker until 8:59 then stop and do wrenching and mock up and everything else you need to do. the nicest thing is when the cops come and you tell them what and how the rule says you can be.

then and get off my property.

btw if you are looking to buy a property dont ask about shop facilities and neighborhood tolerance ect. theyll never want you if you say that.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

I was surprised to see egg-crate flats stapled to the walls of a machine shop, but it worked great. It would be cheap/free. I'd give it a shot.