getting closer.. (4G63T motor swap)

[rotozuk]

Since the other thread no longer lets anyone post to it, lets start a new one.

Some supplies for the day:


Not bad for one "J" bend worth of material:


Getting rid of that silly criss-cross brake system my early Samurai had. cutting the double "T" manifold into a a pair of single "T"s:


The hard line from the intercooler. I redisgned this thing a few times trying to make a method that will allow the engine to move around without popping the hoses off. We shall see if this works:


The exhaust is built from 3" 16 gauge aluminized steel, and all bends are mandrel pulled. I have always taken my vehicles to exhaust shops in the past, but never liked the installs. I figured I'd give it a shot, and found it pretty damn easy so far. I'd hate to see what they would charge for this one anyhhow!

The intercooler hard lines are all 2" aluminum with mandrel bends also. It would have cost about the same to make them from steel, but the aluminum will look a little better, and help cool the charge a bit more.

By the way, I just about had an ugly accident with my 14" chop saw when cutting some of the aluminum tubing. I was just holding the tubing down with my hand while cutting, and the blade grabbed the tube, and the saw jumped about 1-1/2 feet away after the blade came to an instant stop. The blade was destroyed, and the aluminum tubing was a little worse for wear. Wow.. glad my hand didn't get pulled in there. (I sure like working with steel better!)

Just tonight I pulled the transmission off with the hopes of installing my new clutch parts, and confirming that the bellhousing is going to work. It does not look good!

-Wayne

[Kac]

What are you using for hose to connect you cooler to the tubing? Looking good

[UZI 9mm]

Always look forward to your posts, Wayne


May want to consider some kind of heat shield between the Cat and the body tub.....especially if you have fresh paint or worse, that rubberized rocker guard stuff inside *Peeyew*

Not to mention hot feet. My last muffler was tucked up too high, and heated up the tub enough to melt the contents of my cooler blech.

The Cat will be compared to a muffler, and cook you alive.
you have been warned

[rotozuk]

Kac - Turbo hose connections will be some silicone pieces. I need to go locate a few of them. They have a single below in them to assist in flexing. I might be getting a little paranoid on this issue..?

Uzi - Yep, fair warning. My body is missing the little stock heat shield, but the cat is currently pushed up against the mount for it. So it has about 3/8 - 1/2" off the floor. But I noticed when working down there that the floor dropped down a 1/2" or so. So I'll pick up some space when I fix that. Still plan to put a heat hield in there though.

On a side note, I have been warned that the cat may not light off well thanks to the large size. My old cat got the floor pretty warm though.

-Wayne

[rockzilla]

where did you have the tubing mandrel bent? or do you own a mandrel bender, if so how much was it and where??

[Kac]

Rotozuk what do you think about using rad hose for turbo connections? Remember I only have 11 pounds of boost. The reason I asked because I got my cooler today and test fitted it. If I had a hose 4" longer than what's coming from the turbo to the intake I wouldn't need any tubing( it is a 90degree moulded hose). For the outlet I will use tubing and silicone hump hoses.I looked at work for hump hoses the smallest we have is 3"(I work for a Honda dealer that services International trucks)There is a travelling partsman coming friday Iam going to ask him about smallerhump hoses. Do you have to run a cat?Your set up must be obd2 is it? Thanks for the help.

[rollerskate]

Wayne,
The projects coming along nicely.Where'd you get that
aluminum tubing?

Brad

[rotozuk]

I picked up all of my tubing and exhaust items from a guy named Scott that owns a really nice little fabrication shop around the corner from my work. I have been visiting this guys shop for some time as he gets some amazing projects to work on. He specializes in desert race vehicles, and among other things, built the class winning Isuzu team a couple of years ago. He also does all kinds of hot rods, etc. Always something interesting going on in the shop.

Anyhow he uses a local shop with a mandrel bender. They do not sell to the public, but Scott's prices are fair. The 3" "J"s were about $30 each. I don't know yet what the aluminum is going to cost me, but should not be bad, maybe $20. I have also bent up soft copper as a template, and had his mandrel benders match it in the final tube I need.

Mandrel benders are EXPENSIVE, and wasteful to use if not careful.

Radiator hose is a good affordable method for intercooler connections. Typical colling systems vent at about 14 PSI, so you should be fine. Not sure all of this silicone line I am using really gains a damn thing if you ask me. But I have it now.. When I first started hunting for a 2" elbow, I did go to a truck supply place, and found they sold a nice 2" elbow for about $15 as I recall. (And their prices are pretty high at that place.) I think I paid $45 for my silicone elbow from the local Earl's supplier.

Hope this helps.. by the way, I will not be posting many pictures for the next couple of days as I am knee deep into the wiring. So far it does not look bad. (knocking on wood)

-Wayne

[rotozuk]

Time for some more pictures?

Can you say "fun with wiring"? Come on, give it a try...

Step one, open the engine harness:


Step two, identify and get rid of the unused items:


Step three, figure out wire routing:


Step four, combine with stock Samurai harness: (Not as bad as this picture makes it look.)


What happened to my heater?


My stereo will mount were the ventilation controls used to be. The stock vents only blew dust anyhow, so no big loss. I rather get the stereo up higher, and gain some knee space. I'll be mounting a small fan on top of the heater core.

If you are interested in more details on the wiring process, click here for my web site.

-Wayne

[deepmud]

holy crap, Wayne. You are in deep.

Look at motorcyle radiator fans on Ebay for your little heater. You might even just mount a bike radiator in a good location. They come in lots of small sizes - I found a bunch at about $20. You have to search by the make(honda, suzuki,etc) and radiator.

I got a free intercooler, btw, for my diesel. My dad paid hundreds for it for his Omni GLH. It outa' work great if I can get all the silver paint out of it

Erik

[rotozuk]

Yep, I'll dig around for a fan and see what turns up.

Good deal on the intercooler. By the way, the local parts stores sell a spray on paint remover that I used with great results. Flushed the old paint off in no time.

-Wayne

[rockzilla]

and thats exactly why my little 1.3 is staying right were its at!!, wiring scares the crap outa me!! lookin good man!! love the guages!!

[tdavis]

Did you figure out what to use for the pilot bearing?

If not, the tip-o-the-day (from fatkid, via SoS..) - have the flywheel center machined for the toyota pilot bearing.

Later!

[rotozuk]

Originally posted by tdavis
Did you figure out what to use for the pilot bearing?

If not, the tip-o-the-day (from fatkid, via SoS..) - have the flywheel center machined for the toyota pilot bearing.

Later!

Hey tDavis,

yep, that is basically what it has.

-Wayne

[rotozuk]

Well, just got off the phone.. Doesn't look like I'm getting my bellhousing till late next week. Ships this Friday if the guy lives up to his word! Which he hasn't done yet.. as I watch another deadline pass by..

Well here are some pics from the weekend:

Flexing the rear to see what I need to trim for the 37s.


This is the body contact I had:


This is the inside view after triming:


How it looks at rest:


I'll have to address the front end.. This is the drag link heim maxed out, and you can see the spring gets rather close to the pitman arm.


The other side:


No issues with the fuel filler:


Filling the holes:


Finished after some bondo and primer:




The vehicle did not have much of it's total weight for these tests, just the engine, and whatever junk I had in the tub at the time. But the spring pack in the rear is missing 2 leafs, so flex was pretty good. I am amazed at how little trimming will was required. If I had a twisty suspension, I'm sure I would be doing more trimming.

-Wayne

[Kac]

Nice job. If I tried to run 37's up here they would jerk me off the road in a hurray. I am going to run 33's (no rocks here) with fairly good travel. I read your web site about engine swaps good idea's there. I like diesels and I wasn't looking for more power just more usable power that's why I picked the vw engine.I lok forward to your post see ya around.

[N*A*M]

nice flex. interesting build up. i know what it feels like to be waiting on parts. i'm still holding my breath for my toy dual case adaptor and 4.7 gears.

the mtrs are sweet! we don't get them here until much later.

[BJ On Roids]

whats going on with them nam?

[N*A*M]

bj i'll email you

[rotozuk]

Actually the flex is rather limited right now. It will get better, but this is not going to be a super flexy machine. I do a fair amount of highway miles with my rigs, so I like them a bit tighter. But I should have plenty of flex once I am done. More than I have had with any other leaf sprung setup.

We had a 3 link setup that flexed like mad on another rig. We just changed the spring layout to reduce that flex as the vehicle was a bit of a handfull on anything but rocks, and the owner doesn't really get into the rocks anymore. More of a sand toy now. So we put some 3 inch coil over style springs under the frame, and are running about a 225 lb rate. Ride quality around town and in the sand are much improved from the inset 195 lb OME Chrokee springsFirestone air bag combination it used to run.

-Wayne

[rotozuk]

Time for some more pictures.. These are more interesting..

I mounted some plates on the firewall for my new front clip:


Bent some 2" and 1.5" .120 wall HREW tube in my buddies hydraulic bender:


Another shot of the bender; (He just added the hydraulics to it.)


Made these:


Put a couple here:


Trimmed the front like Bryans (that I am copying somewhat):


fit the side bars: (Note, 1-1/2" tubing fits the radius of the zuk fenders very well!)


Added a few more to the grill area:


and a side shot:


Not a bad weekend considering I'm all new with working with tubing, and benders, and not one connection is square to another. Thanks to Tin Bender's Tube Bending 101 article, and some good guidlines from John, I did not have any wasted bends. But damn, I need a notcher, using the grinder sucks.

-Wayne

[rotozuk]

Well, the new bellhousing came in. The last one was pretty bad. This one is interesting, but I think it will work.

It came painted yellow, it must be fast! (Note the 2 starter pockets.)


The extra starter pocket hits my wastegate valve.. No biggy.


Another shot from the side:


Bolted to engine with clutch in:


Also played around with some ideas for th front end and made some ghetto shock mounts, but will make something a lot nicer if I get the time before Moab. (less than a month away) I'm still working on the rear shocks.



and painted the firewall:

[Slowzuki]

Looking good Wayne! Are you calling ghetto due to the mounting to the "body"?

[rotozuk]

Originally posted by Slowzuki
Are you calling ghetto due to the mounting to the "body"?

No, the final mounts will mount to the same location, you would just have to see how ugly they are. The sad part is a spent a fair amount of time messing around with these.. This front clip will drive you a little nutty as nothing is square.. There will be a couple of more tubes on the front clip, and one of those will tie the shock area down to the frame. I'll probably make that one of the early test drives.. Go to my budy's house that has the tube bender and finish off the front.

-Wayne

[tdavis]

that new bell housing from the pics look much better than the butchered one..

Hope it works!