Lame attempt at some motor mount tech.

poorwheeler · 06-24-2003, 11:40 PM

My Graphic skills need some great improvement. But I have recieved several PM's asking about the way I do my motor mounts and for some pics. Well all the mounts I have done are still in the vehicles and I have never taken a pic while I was doing em. This is close to the way Marlin showed me how. The only thing I changed was using a bigger stringer bolt and drilling out the hardware to make it fit. After I did these mount I could barely notice any more motor vibration. But marling has been running these style mounts for over 3 years and swears by em. Even with his budbuilt before the mounts he broke stock mount often. And he didn't like the vibration of other aftermarket ones. And well this way just seems better than chain. Although chain has done me well for a long time. So take a look and see what can be done better and comment/flame away. But total cost was like $4.50 a side from OSH not including the mount(even though your just modifying yours.

After you get the mount together just tighten it enough to make the lock washers go flat. I even used a lock nut and other friends have tack welded theirs. Try and drill directly in the center. If using a used mount you can usually see where the circle has rubbed from wear against the frame.

Yeah I know my spelling sux...

TNToy · 06-25-2003, 03:29 AM

So you basically drill out where the original bolt was... and the rubber that was previously in tension... is now just a bushing?

CRS · 06-25-2003, 09:18 AM

that was my last weekend project did know if it would work but its cool to see others do i didnt like the chain much and rockstomper was to much vibe Girlfriend liked it though

yeah i just drilled the hole out and and a bolt all the way through and boltd to the motor just like above

works good. hope it holds up.

CRs

Scott@Rockstomper · 06-25-2003, 09:29 AM

Any suggestions for how to keep the bolt-hole centered over the original stud?

One other suggestion--might want to periodically replace the bolt because of fatigue issues.

poorwheeler · 06-25-2003, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by TNToy
So you basically drill out where the original bolt was... and the rubber that was previously in tension... is now just a bushing?

Pretty much. But 99% of the time the motor is still resting on the rubber and putting no strain on the bolt. Which gives you no more vibration than stock. Only under a load does vibration slightly increase and the bolt actually take a load.

poorwheeler · 06-25-2003, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper
Any suggestions for how to keep the bolt-hole centered over the original stud?

One other suggestion--might want to periodically replace the bolt because of fatigue issues.

The centering issue was kind of a shot in the dark and hit her in the face

. But with the about 7-10 of these I have done on the used mount there was a clear mark from the perfect circle on the frame where the motor mount had been resting. This would only be a problem if you were using a new mount that had never been in a truck.

Scott what size bolt do you use in your mounts? Is it stronger than a 1/2" Grade 8? This bolt only sees stress under hard accelleration/low gear wheeling tourque.

Marlin Czakowski has used this design(and he was the one who told me about it about 1 1/2years ago) for over 3 years now and had had no problem. He uses an old head bolt for his just cuts it down. His crawl ratio is over 1000:1 and he said even with the Budbuilt crossmember and dual tcase he was still braking both of them until he came up with this motor mount modification.

WARDOG · 06-25-2003, 11:06 AM

I did the same thing and it lasted one trip and broke. So I went with Rockstomper's and they'll probably outlast the truck. Good idea though. Scott's don't vibrate much more than the bolt-through design either.

poorwheeler · 06-25-2003, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by CRS
that was my last weekend project did know if it would work but its cool to see others do i didnt like the chain much and rockstomper was to much vibe Girlfriend liked it though yeah i just drilled the hole out and and a bolt all the way through and boltd to the motor just like above

works good. hope it holds up.

CRs

What did you use for the rubber bushing? I used a peice of mudflap for my first set and it worked great.

CRS · 06-25-2003, 11:54 AM

a piece of rubber floor mate 1/8 to a quater thick just cut it with a razor blade

poorwheeler · 06-25-2003, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by WARDOG
I did the same thing and it lasted one trip and broke. So I went with Rockstomper's and they'll probably outlast the truck. Good idea though. Scott's don't vibrate much more than the bolt-through design either.

Not critisizing the way you did it but my way the hardware is alot stronger than the rockstomper's. They use a smaller grade 5 bolts. Your hardware must not have been up to the task.

85runnerAZ · 06-25-2003, 12:50 PM

This thread couldn't have better timing. I am putting in new motor mounts this weekend. I can take pics if someone wants me to email them to em so they can be posted...don't have my red star yet.

SeaBass44 · 06-25-2003, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 85runnerAZ
This thread couldn't have better timing. I am putting in new motor mounts this weekend. I can take pics if someone wants me to email them to em so they can be posted...don't have my red star yet.

Send me the pics I CAN POST THEM

poorwheeler · 06-25-2003, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 85runnerAZ
This thread couldn't have better timing. I am putting in new motor mounts this weekend. I can take pics if someone wants me to email them to em so they can be posted...don't have my red star yet.

One thing I forgot to add. Make sure your washers/rubber are not bigger than the hole in the frame mount or they will cause interfearance. Good luck and I can post some pics for ya also.

Anyone know the tensile strenght of a 1/2" grade 8 bolt?

Scott@Rockstomper · 06-25-2003, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by poorwheeler
Scott what size bolt do you use in your mounts? Is it stronger than a 1/2" Grade 8? This bolt only sees stress under hard accelleration/low gear wheeling tourque.

Stronger than a 1/2" Grade 8 bolt? No... it *is*--that's as big as fits. Bigger and you can't get it through the stock engine ear.

The mount bolts to the frame are smaller, though. Still stronger than stock, but smaller than 1/2". I'm not sure offhand (can't remember what size the stock bolts are) if they're bigger or smaller than stock.

poorwheeler · 06-25-2003, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper

Stronger than a 1/2" Grade 8 bolt? No... it *is*--that's as big as fits. Bigger and you can't get it through the stock engine ear.

The mount bolts to the frame are smaller, though. Still stronger than stock, but smaller than 1/2". I'm not sure offhand (can't remember what size the stock bolts are) if they're bigger or smaller than stock.

Rockstomper makes a great product. Would have went that way if I had the money. Was shown this way one day and thats the way I have done it. Hence my username. Just trying to help out the brokedicks like me

85runnerAZ · 06-25-2003, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SeaBass44

Send me the pics I CAN POST THEM

Sounds good

Scott@Rockstomper · 06-26-2003, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by poorwheeler
Rockstomper makes a great product. Would have went that way if I had the money. Was shown this way one day and thats the way I have done it. Hence my username. Just trying to help out the brokedicks like me

No harm in it... that's why I hopped on with what (I hope) was useful info, not "oh, just buy my stuff"... I've been (still am) a brokedick for a long time.

One other word of advice regarding this setup--you may want to oversize the washers on the motor mount ears--it'll help support the motor mount baseplate from bending. I've actually found that a burly motor mount, with stupid-gear, and stock dinky-washer bolts, can start to pull the frame ears upward, dimpling the bolts into them (did it myself), and the frame side of the motor mount plate setup, is stronger than the stock motor mount baseplate is. That's part of why our mounts include new bolts and washers.

poorwheeler · 06-26-2003, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper

No harm in it... that's why I hopped on with what (I hope) was useful info, not "oh, just buy my stuff"... I've been (still am) a brokedick for a long time.

One other word of advice regarding this setup--you may want to oversize the washers on the motor mount ears--it'll help support the motor mount baseplate from bending. I've actually found that a burly motor mount, with stupid-gear, and stock dinky-washer bolts, can start to pull the frame ears upward, dimpling the bolts into them (did it myself), and the frame side of the motor mount plate setup, is stronger than the stock motor mount baseplate is. That's part of why our mounts include new bolts and washers.

I hear exactly what your sayin. About 2months after I did this I went to a FROR X-Member/Skid Plate setup. Alng with these mounts and that setup I have had no problem. I don't know if you are familiar with the rubicon but there is a spot called toyota hill/toyota pullout at the Little Sluice. I went up it this weekend at 200:1 to the floor hopping on all 4's. Everything help up great. Was waiting for something to pop but the shifters didn't even wiggle.

Scott if you guys could just get a little more rubber in there or somethin I would run em. Just like the feelin of a smooth runnin truck while I am puttin down the trail.

KS Toy · 07-23-2003, 07:04 PM

Ok, I just got done with this mod. It took about 20 min on the pass side and 35 on the d side. I could tell a BIG diff right away as soon as I let out on the clutch just a little it grabbed. It was a piece of cake other then getting the drivers side off and on. What a bitch. Anyway...I must have the bolts to tight. That SOB shakes like a puppy shitin' razor blades. I will loosen them tomorrow and see what happens. Also for the flat washer that goes in the MM connected to the frame I used a 3/8" washer and drilled out to 1/2" Thanks for the tip-Brad

Bones · 07-23-2003, 07:17 PM

I just installed my rockstomper MM's and was roilling it around the driveway in lo lo and since my cage is against the roof it makes a NICE Hmmmm sound. Can't wait to drive 4 hours to Disney in that!

But no longer does my drivetrain bounce around like before. Anyone want some 1-2 year old stock mounts, let me know. I'll never go back

Alabamatoy · 07-23-2003, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bones
Anyone want some 1-2 year old stock mounts, let me know.

How much?

Bones · 07-23-2003, 07:36 PM

PM me a price and we'll go from there.

poorwheeler · 07-24-2003, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by KS Toy
Ok, I just got done with this mod. It took about 20 min on the pass side and 35 on the d side. I could tell a BIG diff right away as soon as I let out on the clutch just a little it grabbed. It was a piece of cake other then getting the drivers side off and on. What a bitch. Anyway...I must have the bolts to tight. That SOB shakes like a puppy shitin' razor blades. I will loosen them tomorrow and see what happens. Also for the flat washer that goes in the MM connected to the frame I used a 3/8" washer and drilled out to 1/2" Thanks for the tip-Brad

Only tighten until the lock washer colapses. Took me a time or two to get it right before my vibrations went away.

Sam

KS Toy · 07-24-2003, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by poorwheeler

Only tighten until the lock washer colapses. Took me a time or two to get it right before my vibrations went away.

Sam

I backed them off so the washer is seperated. This helped some but it still has vibration. Maybe it will loosen up alittle when I drive it.

Rock-Wear · 09-06-2003, 09:18 PM

anybody ever get pics? how well is this working for everyone?

06-24-2003, 11:40 PM	#1
poorwheeler Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Member # 14283 Location: CitrusHeights Posts: 769	Lame attempt at some motor mount tech. My Graphic skills need some great improvement. But I have recieved several PM's asking about the way I do my motor mounts and for some pics. Well all the mounts I have done are still in the vehicles and I have never taken a pic while I was doing em. This is close to the way Marlin showed me how. The only thing I changed was using a bigger stringer bolt and drilling out the hardware to make it fit. After I did these mount I could barely notice any more motor vibration. But marling has been running these style mounts for over 3 years and swears by em. Even with his budbuilt before the mounts he broke stock mount often. And he didn't like the vibration of other aftermarket ones. And well this way just seems better than chain. Although chain has done me well for a long time. So take a look and see what can be done better and comment/flame away. But total cost was like $4.50 a side from OSH not including the mount(even though your just modifying yours. After you get the mount together just tighten it enough to make the lock washers go flat. I even used a lock nut and other friends have tack welded theirs. Try and drill directly in the center. If using a used mount you can usually see where the circle has rubbed from wear against the frame. Yeah I know my spelling sux... Attached Images __________________ "Cut em All JACK!" Last edited by poorwheeler; 06-24-2003 at 11:44 PM.

06-25-2003, 03:29 AM	#2
TNToy Cardboard Killer Join Date: Jul 2001 Member # 5776 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 11,523	So you basically drill out where the original bolt was... and the rubber that was previously in tension... is now just a bushing? __________________ ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician Toyota Certified Expert Technician Volvo Certified Expert Technician Suzuki Certified Master Technician IDPA Certified Master Cardboard Killer

06-25-2003, 09:18 AM	#3
CRS Granite Guru Join Date: May 2002 Member # 11669 Location: knee deep in the hopla Posts: 638	that was my last weekend project did know if it would work but its cool to see others do i didnt like the chain much and rockstomper was to much vibe Girlfriend liked it though yeah i just drilled the hole out and and a bolt all the way through and boltd to the motor just like above works good. hope it holds up. CRs __________________ 1/4 TiLT Krawlers Petaluma CA 707 799 5747 Jake my waterfall, see you at the gates till then your always by my side<3

06-25-2003, 09:29 AM	#4
Scott@Rockstomper The winch rope guy Join Date: Oct 2000 Member # 1889 Location: Firestone, Colorado, USA Posts: 6,341	Any suggestions for how to keep the bolt-hole centered over the original stud? One other suggestion--might want to periodically replace the bolt because of fatigue issues. __________________ Winch rope, DIY beadlock kits, hydraulic steering, and much more: Shop Rockstomper online

06-25-2003, 11:54 AM	#9
CRS Granite Guru Join Date: May 2002 Member # 11669 Location: knee deep in the hopla Posts: 638	a piece of rubber floor mate 1/8 to a quater thick just cut it with a razor blade __________________ 1/4 TiLT Krawlers Petaluma CA 707 799 5747 Jake my waterfall, see you at the gates till then your always by my side<3

06-25-2003, 11:06 AM	#7
WARDOG Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Member # 13422 Location: Denver Posts: 3	I did the same thing and it lasted one trip and broke. So I went with Rockstomper's and they'll probably outlast the truck. Good idea though. Scott's don't vibrate much more than the bolt-through design either.

06-25-2003, 12:50 PM	#11
85runnerAZ Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Member # 17610 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 1,417	This thread couldn't have better timing. I am putting in new motor mounts this weekend. I can take pics if someone wants me to email them to em so they can be posted...don't have my red star yet. __________________ KK www.crawlinaz.com/forum for AZ crawling and trail runs

07-23-2003, 07:04 PM	#19
KS Toy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 7938 Location: The Land of OZ... Posts: 3,433	MM mod... Ok, I just got done with this mod. It took about 20 min on the pass side and 35 on the d side. I could tell a BIG diff right away as soon as I let out on the clutch just a little it grabbed. It was a piece of cake other then getting the drivers side off and on. What a bitch. Anyway...I must have the bolts to tight. That SOB shakes like a puppy shitin' razor blades. I will loosen them tomorrow and see what happens. Also for the flat washer that goes in the MM connected to the frame I used a 3/8" washer and drilled out to 1/2" Thanks for the tip-Brad __________________ A fool's lips bring him strife, and his mouth invites a beating.

07-23-2003, 07:17 PM	#20
Bones Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Member # 3007 Location: Cedar Rapids, Ia Posts: 8,504	I just installed my rockstomper MM's and was roilling it around the driveway in lo lo and since my cage is against the roof it makes a NICE Hmmmm sound. Can't wait to drive 4 hours to Disney in that! But no longer does my drivetrain bounce around like before. Anyone want some 1-2 year old stock mounts, let me know. I'll never go back

07-23-2003, 07:36 PM	#22
Bones Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Member # 3007 Location: Cedar Rapids, Ia Posts: 8,504	PM me a price and we'll go from there.

09-06-2003, 09:18 PM	#25
Rock-Wear Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Member # 15186 Location: Antelope Valley, Ca Posts: 2,192	anybody ever get pics? how well is this working for everyone?

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