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Old 01-31-2004, 11:32 PM   #26
TMAN FJ60
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i'm a lazy bum!!

Wellll............i didn't get them on today..
I ended up having to put a new master cylinder on today, and by the time i got through with that, I had to go to work, then go out for a birthday dinner (yeah, i'm 18 now ). So, hopefully I'll at least get part of the kit done tomorrow, maybe the front if i work fast. In the mean time, I'll go take some pics (of the kit) and post them - anybody know how to post multiple pics in one post? Help a newbie(to the red star, anyway) out!

Travis
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Old 02-01-2004, 12:28 AM   #27
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ok here's the pic
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Old 02-01-2004, 12:30 AM   #28
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and the top plate - holy thick spring perch, batman!
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Old 11-30-2005, 08:59 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toy4fun
I have the same kit and I had a little problem with the fit on the right front because the housing is a little more square(on an 82 FJ40) then the pre 80 models on a FJ40 I'm not sure about the FJ60s kits but mine had a square u bolt right here stock and I had to do a little grinding to get it to fit.

I was just wondering if any one else had any problems
Hello, all, I just dug up this post...
I was trying to install a set of these on the front axle of my FJ55 the other day, and ran into a problem with the top plate interfering with the bumpstops on the axle, especially on the drivers side. From your photo it looks like it fits over it on the passenger side, but it's nuthin' doin' on the drivers side. Do I just grind the thing off and be done with it? Can someone dig up those photos again so I can see what people have done?

Thanks,

Nial
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Old 11-30-2005, 09:43 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfpig
Hello, all, I just dug up this post...
I was trying to install a set of these on the front axle of my FJ55 the other day, and ran into a problem with the top plate interfering with the bumpstops on the axle, especially on the drivers side. From your photo it looks like it fits over it on the passenger side, but it's nuthin' doin' on the drivers side. Do I just grind the thing off and be done with it? Can someone dig up those photos again so I can see what people have done?

Thanks,

Nial
Nial, I've been looking at buying one of those kits for my 40 for the last couple of days. Gotta try and get every inch of clearance out of my SUA! Anyhow, it makes sense to me that you would have to grind off the factory snubber plate. Seems like the top plate of the flip kit should be more than adequate to replace it anyways. Hth
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Originally Posted by lc tpi
...if I have to buy them from Trail Gear I guess I dont need them.

65SWB45, 64LWB45, 68FJ40, 72VJ40, 76K5, 73Sub454, 97Sub5.7, 2002 Trailblazer

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Old 11-30-2005, 10:14 AM   #31
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Snubber. Thanks, I wondered what that was called! That's where my thinking was headed, just remove it. I read a thread over on mud where the previous incarnation of the plate just bolted over the top of it, and people were bending it (1/2 " thick!). Mine has the curved gussets to fit the axle curve, and wont fit over the snubber (my new word for the day), so, I'll be pulling out my grinder this weekend! By the way, I installed them on the rears along with my new Belton springs last June, very happy, no issues, finally getting around now to the fronts...

nial
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:24 AM   #32
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Crap, where'd my post go???

Well, got out the grinder last night... Now I got a 1/2" snubber! Gotta stop being so attached to stuff I don't need.

nial
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:41 AM   #33
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Are these considered Old-school?


Rubithon tested
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...flip+kit+manny
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Old 12-02-2005, 12:39 PM   #34
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Manny
are they still in business? The links to the website are not working. How much did they cost?
Thanks
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Old 12-02-2005, 01:14 PM   #35
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His number should still work...He's pretty busy, so it may be a while before he calls back.

I think Ross mentioned that he only had one complete set left ?
the LCAH business has been sold...
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Old 12-05-2005, 01:52 PM   #36
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I used the high clearance plates from LCAH when I was spring under. Nothing will give you better clearance and be easier to bolt on than those. I am surprised you guys are messing around with all the welding and fabricating etc when those plates are so easy to put on.

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Old 12-05-2005, 03:38 PM   #37
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Here's mine now... Pretty clean.

Nial
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Old 12-05-2005, 11:21 PM   #38
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Looks good and I think you will be happy
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Old 12-06-2005, 09:37 AM   #39
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GM Axle Plate

How about these:

.

.

GM Axle Plate. Front Passenger side axle plate must be modified to fit the diff. The other 3 are straight bolt on.


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Old 12-06-2005, 10:15 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALF
How about these:

GM Axle Plate. Front Passenger side axle plate must be modified to fit the diff. The other 3 are straight bolt on.


ALF
Do you have a part number or price on those?
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Old 12-06-2005, 11:20 AM   #41
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nicely done
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Old 12-06-2005, 02:27 PM   #42
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Thumbs up

More info on those GM plates!
You could be our Hero!
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Old 12-06-2005, 05:16 PM   #43
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GM Axle Plate...
And probably a bit less that $300 a set!

Nial
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Old 12-07-2005, 08:23 AM   #44
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GM Axle plates were purchased from GMPartsDirect.com. Part # is 15592588. It may show as a special order item but you can still order it. You can also get them locally but you will pay dealer escalation. I paid $10.52 each for mine.

You will need to modify the front passenger side plate to allow the plate to mate with the differential. You will also need to make your own bottom plates and get ubolts that fit through the axle plate holes correctly. But they are very nice and beefy.


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Old 12-07-2005, 09:19 AM   #45
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Very cool! Would you happen to have another pic. or two of those bottom plates? How thick a piece of steel did you use for them? (I just love doing a great mod for less than a king's ransom!!)

Cheers!
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Old 12-07-2005, 01:58 PM   #46
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I did same as ALF. I found parts at a spring shop. They were similar to the kits you all have pictured, except they were about 3/4" to 1 " thick and stamped to accomadate the axle tube. They were more than GM's.
The bottom plates I made out approx 1/8" flat stock, 2 pieces laying on top of each other. The 1st piece was as wide as the spring and about 1 1/2"
longer than the outside dimension of the ubolts on the bottom of the spring. The second layer was made out of 3 pieces all as wide as the spring. 2 short pieces and 1 long one cut,positioned and welded to the 1st plate as to make channels for the ubolts to set in.
+---+ +------------+ +---+
+---+ +------------+ +---+
Be sure to weld the sides as not to interfere w/channels and drill holes for the center pin
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:36 AM   #47
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Using these GM plates looks way clean... but what do you do for rear shock mounts ?

anyone come up with a clean solution?
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Old 03-13-2006, 08:26 AM   #48
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There is a tab on the rear mounts that brings the shock up out of the way of the rocks.

I will get a pic and post it up.

ALF
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Old 03-20-2006, 12:04 PM   #49
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Alf.. I'd like to see that picture if you got time..

btw.. I got quoted $3.85 each for squarre ubolts with nuts and washsers and that's automotive spec bolts.

need to buy a quanity though.
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