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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Member # 16666
Location: Glendale CA, stright-outada armotown from the streets, around the corner through the alley across the quicky-mart under the bridge over the traintracks passed the Mcdonalds left behind the construction yard stright in the land fill, up over the hill
Posts: 1,248
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IFS Hubs & FJ rotor problem
I bought the FJ-40 vented rotors and Im trying to but them on IFS hubs. the problem is the stock rotors were attached to the hub by individual bolts (not the studs). Now the FJ rotor forces you to use the studs to mount rotor into place. My studs are not long enough.
has anybody run into this problem? do you guys have a part number or a vehicle type I can take to the autoparts tomarrow to get some new studs? |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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autojoke, says " I need to see the orginal stud to give you that same part" Give it to em, and then say I need longer.
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[URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=530797"]Don't be the nice guy anymore[/URL] |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Member # 16666
Location: Glendale CA, stright-outada armotown from the streets, around the corner through the alley across the quicky-mart under the bridge over the traintracks passed the Mcdonalds left behind the construction yard stright in the land fill, up over the hill
Posts: 1,248
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this brings me to my next question...
since studs's splines fit instide the whole of the hub... adding a rotor to the back will not give the splines any contact with the hub... is that ok? |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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splines on studs are so that when you torque down they do not spin. When you torque down you should be fine.....make sure you set that stud in correctly.
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[URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=530797"]Don't be the nice guy anymore[/URL] |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Member # 17224
Location: Bonney Lake, WA
Posts: 433
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If your running the ifs hubs and fj rotors on the solid axle--which I hope- cuz ifs sucks-- You need a spacer to space the fj rotor back so the ifs caliper will fit properly. Once you have the spacer, bolt the spacer to the ifs hub, and then bolt the rotor to the spacer. You will need to buy hadware for this. I was going to make my own but the drawing on the fact page is fucked. It is totally wrong. Just buy them from sky. they come with hardware and seals.
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76 FJ55 future buggy 69 FJ55(not done)efi "F", sm420-AAbox-3sp, full coil, LX450 elockers, york, Rino Line 85 EFI 4runner 5.29s, ARBs LC/HP front, Taco rear, Alcan fronts, 63 chevs rear, BB 2 1/2" D-train lift, Marlin 23spline dual w/4.7s, 9.5xp, OBA+CO2, Trail Readys & 37 IROKS 91 RRC |
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Member # 15993
Location: calgary, canada
Posts: 388
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The drawing in the FAQ is for using IFS hubs and rotors, not IFS hubs and FJ rotors. The "hat" section is deeper on the IFS rotors so the spacer doesn't need to be as thick when using IFS rotors as opposed to FJ vented rotors. The whole subject is actually quite confusing to read in the FAQ and could stand to be cleared up a bit and another drawing posted of the spacer required to use a vented FJ rotor. And no, I'm not volunteering to do the article. At the rate I type it would take me a month.
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Member # 17224
Location: Bonney Lake, WA
Posts: 433
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Dude- I here ya. I new it was for the IFS rotors and hubs-- what I was trying to tell him was that it was f
cked. The ifs rotors don't work properly with the ifs calipers mounted on the solid axle spindle and knuckle. Anyway--he doesn't need studs-- he needs spacers and some , cuz those things are $$.I forgot to mention that if he wants just to up grade to vented rotors--just put the fj rotors and ifs calipers on the solid axle hubs and be done with it.
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76 FJ55 future buggy 69 FJ55(not done)efi "F", sm420-AAbox-3sp, full coil, LX450 elockers, york, Rino Line 85 EFI 4runner 5.29s, ARBs LC/HP front, Taco rear, Alcan fronts, 63 chevs rear, BB 2 1/2" D-train lift, Marlin 23spline dual w/4.7s, 9.5xp, OBA+CO2, Trail Readys & 37 IROKS 91 RRC |
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#8 |
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Moo 2 U
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the sky spacer is the way to go IMO. allows the use of the IFS calipers and FJ-40 / FJ-60 vented rotors from 1981-90.
included hardware is 2 brake rotor adapters, 12 low head allen screws, 4(four) 7/16" dowel pins, and 2 inner hub seals. you need to supply your own IFS wheel hubs, IFS or solid axle calipers, and solid axle or FJ-40 / FJ-60 vented rotors. (technically you could reuse your SA solid caliper and your SA rotors - but who wants to do that when you can upgrade).and now my 85 front axle will match my 87 (IFS) rear axle in width.
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#9 |
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Moo 2 U
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forgot the pic
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Member # 16666
Location: Glendale CA, stright-outada armotown from the streets, around the corner through the alley across the quicky-mart under the bridge over the traintracks passed the Mcdonalds left behind the construction yard stright in the land fill, up over the hill
Posts: 1,248
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Im not using a spacer, or kit...
I drilled out the threads in the knuckle. welded a nut on the inside of the caliper and ran a bolt through... that elminates the need of a spacer, or any other kind of 'hardware', my V6 calipers line up with thisees rotors perfect. all im concerned about is the studs... to keep the damn rotor on the hub. Last edited by KarmirToy; 02-02-2004 at 01:28 AM. |
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 21751
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 162
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I recently replaced the studs on my '85, which uses the same setup as you are describing. You can use the Toyota studs (Dorman catalogs list the wrong ones for minitrucks, you need to get the Landcruiser studs), and they'll probably be the best for you. I don't have a part number for those. I wanted some that were a bit longer since I'm using some 1.5" spacers and the lugnuts didn't fully engage with the stock studs. I found that chevy studs, Dorman P/N 610-073 were about 1/4" longer and fit perfectly. They have different threads, though - 1/2-20.
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'85 4Runner with chrome wheels and Pioneer 6x9s |
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Member # 12451
Location: Kansas City, Mo
Posts: 1,245
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Try 1980 FJ40 or FJ60/62 Front wheel studs. Later FJ40's and FJ60's had the studs pressed thru the rotor and hub assembly. Some minitrucks had this setup as well.. It's kinda a tossup in the 1979 era as to whether they will be bolted on or pressed on.
Toyota has the studs think they are about $4 each last time I purchased them. Or if your problem is you have the rotor that attaches via bolts to the back of the hub and your hub assembly needs to have the rotor pressed on via the studs.. YOur gonna need to buy new rotors! Do a search there were some cheap ones on the Cruiser section not very long ago. I've got the sky kit sitting in the garage waiting to go on my Cruiser axle (well it's been there a while! ) thanks for the tech everyone!
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Erik FJ45, FJ40, FJ62 TLCA #5303 Secretary |
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#13 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Member # 16666
Location: Glendale CA, stright-outada armotown from the streets, around the corner through the alley across the quicky-mart under the bridge over the traintracks passed the Mcdonalds left behind the construction yard stright in the land fill, up over the hill
Posts: 1,248
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Quote:
enjoy |
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Member # 16666
Location: Glendale CA, stright-outada armotown from the streets, around the corner through the alley across the quicky-mart under the bridge over the traintracks passed the Mcdonalds left behind the construction yard stright in the land fill, up over the hill
Posts: 1,248
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Member # 16666
Location: Glendale CA, stright-outada armotown from the streets, around the corner through the alley across the quicky-mart under the bridge over the traintracks passed the Mcdonalds left behind the construction yard stright in the land fill, up over the hill
Posts: 1,248
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#16 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Member # 16666
Location: Glendale CA, stright-outada armotown from the streets, around the corner through the alley across the quicky-mart under the bridge over the traintracks passed the Mcdonalds left behind the construction yard stright in the land fill, up over the hill
Posts: 1,248
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4
there is slight grinding with the caliper you have to do... I ran into this problem After I tightned the spindle nut. |
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#17 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Member # 16666
Location: Glendale CA, stright-outada armotown from the streets, around the corner through the alley across the quicky-mart under the bridge over the traintracks passed the Mcdonalds left behind the construction yard stright in the land fill, up over the hill
Posts: 1,248
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last one.... kinda weird lookin
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#18 |
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Still a Newbie...
Join Date: Aug 2003
Member # 22382
Location: Rocklin, CA
Posts: 106
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Hey KarmirXJ,
Great job and thanks for the pics! It looks like you are using a bunch of "new" parts... any chance you could post the part numbers/sources/make/model you have used. This would sure make it easier for those doing the same upgrade. Also, if you can give us any info on the used parts (year/make/model) that would be great too. Thanks in advance, Bill |
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#19 |
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Registered User
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so what we have here is IFS wheel hubs w/ FJ-40 rotors and IFS calipers and no spacer...
Damn... wonder why someone didn't think about mounting the caliper this way before? Seems too dang simple...
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Brian K. Gallus |
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#20 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Member # 9821
Location: East Lansing Michigan
Posts: 2,808
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Quote:
) except most people go to a 9/16" bolt and they tap the caliper.
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I'm pimping ScottFJ40's [URL=http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZthemanwithgreatseats]ebay shit[/URL] so he owes me a dollar. [color=orange] Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left.[/color] [color=yellow]I before E except after C except in words like neighbor and Budweiser.[/color] [color=lime]May clinging breasts always come to your aid in the kitchen. [/color] |
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#21 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Member # 22952
Location: santa rosa ca.
Posts: 166
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holy shi-t do you guys think that would be safe for everyday
driving? im runnig sa hubs now but i still have the ifs hubs. to top it off im having problems with the threads in the knuckle. i need an honest opinion should i do this hub swap? oh btw i have fj40 rotors ifs calipers and i do have spacers. what are the pros and cons with mounting the caliper this way.
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beat up pos 864runner sas 36 iroks mc07 detroit arb etc. etc. etc. |
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#22 |
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I call her... Vera
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5776
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 10,942
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The main "pro" is width. When I went from the 36s to the 38.5s I gained about 6 inches in total width including the change in wheel backspaing. Made a huge difference in stability.
This would save you the trouble of having to get low B.S. wheels like I did. I don't see a problem with the way the caliper is mounted, but someone else probably will. |
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#23 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Member # 22952
Location: santa rosa ca.
Posts: 166
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cool thanks for your reply, im running 36s and have a leaf spring
clearance issue.
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beat up pos 864runner sas 36 iroks mc07 detroit arb etc. etc. etc. |
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#24 | |
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Sobriety=Serenity
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 30
Location: Roseville, CA,To many Yuppies, Not enough Hippies
Posts: 13,899
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Quote:
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David & Theresa, Roseville, CA, Excellent Parts Source http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/ http://www.marlincrawler.com/ http://www.12voltguy.com/web/ Last edited by OOP'S; 02-03-2004 at 04:03 PM. |
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#25 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2001
Member # 4522
Location: AZ
Posts: 369
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That whole setup seems pretty sketchy. MAYBE for the trail, but I wouldn't venture onto the highway with that setup personally.
Last edited by MattMan; 02-03-2004 at 04:21 PM. |
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