Need Help with 22re install

[fprbrooks]

pics that cuatroxcuatro sent me #1

[fprbrooks]

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[SASToy]

Originally posted by 4RnrRick
Then this is what it looked like after I did a '94 plenum conversion.

Rick, do you have to get a 94 or later plenum to be able to eliminate all those extra vacuum lines? Less vacuum lines looks so much cleaner

[cuatroxcuatro]

Just an update on the pics fprbrooks posted for me. I took them prior to pulling the head so I would have a reference for re-assembly.
The previous owner had it running on propane and ended up having a rebuilt put in and switched back to gasoline. Sounds like it ran too hot and he had burned the exhaust valves. The fuel filter mount was not in place, hence the duct tape and tie strap support. I bought it with 40k miles on the rebuilt motor, overheated it and warped the head. My temp guage wasn't reading properly and never indicated a hot motor. I had a small coolant leak at the back of the motor and the loss of coolant produced the high temps. It wasn't until I could hear the air gurgling around in the heater core that I realized what had happened. I had the head milled, put in a lumpy cam, bored throttle body, LC headers, and drove it for a year. It would appear, however, that one of the piston rings has broken, I suspect they turned brittle from the high temp. Now I'm putting in another rebuild, ported and polished, and an LC cam.

[4RnrRick]

Just wanted to mention this if no body seen it.... Still not sure where that line going parrallel to the plenum is going??? But any way its not factory like that.

[4RnrRick]

No you don't need a 94 plenum to clean it up.

With the plenum conversion you loose the air bypass valve thingy (not sure on the name) highlighted in green.

And the dash pot on the Throttle body is a bit different so you also loos this "limp" thing. Highlighted in Blue.

Also the newer plenum is more of a straight shot into the plenum so. I noticed more throttle response when I did my conversion.

[4RnrRick]

When removing the EGR stuff this is the basics to it. The blue item is the EGR. The red item is the formed steel vacuum line run. the green is the egr vacuum modulator. so basically almost every hose to these can get removed. You will need to make (2) block off plates for the egr, one for the head and one for the back of the plenum. or buy them from LCEngineering.

[4RnrRick]

Then you can move the vacuum solenoid to the back of the plenum since there is no not egr back there and that helps clean off the top of the engine. Note, the wiring harness is long enough so you shouldn't have to cut into it.

[4RnrRick]

Then you can also remove the temperature sensor goody that controls the egr modulator and install a metric pipe plug. I THINK I highlighted the right one.

How I did all this is I pulled the intak e and put it on the bench with all the vacuum line connected. then i just slowly removed piece by piece and compared each intake side by side untill I had it figured out. It's really pretty simple once you have it on the work bench. but these picture should help anyone that wants to do this. Again, I would not recommend doing this if its illegal in your state for emmisions...... But you already knew that.





Hope I didn't hijack the thread too much.

[4RnrRick]

Forgot about this: This is the idle speed up valve (purple) for the AC and power steering. The blue lines run over to the Power steering. The yellow lines connect the vavle to the solenoid (green) for the the AC idle speed up button in the cab.

All of this can be removed if you don't want / see a need for the idle speed up. I could never get my didle to change when turning the steering wheel and I was seeting my idle high so to clean up the clutter I had removed all of this. but now I put it back on (except the blue lines) for a increasing my idle for rock crawling and I just unplug the ac clutch..

[fprbrooks]

Thanks for all of the picks guys!!!

Well the engine my truck came with was blown, so I was given a motor by a friend. It had been in a wreek and the front was in bad shape. So I am swapping the waster pump and all that other stuff off of the blown motor. Well Last night I went to change the oil in the new engine and water came out . So is there any way that water could have gotten in there besides a blown head gasket?

[fprbrooks]

That is awsome info Rick Thanks

Do you have any idea where this plug goes?

[4RnrRick]

I think this could be your problem????

Originally posted by fprbrooks
....... so I was given a motor by a friend. ......

No other way I know of unless the engine was open to the elements.

OH, wait, have you looked at the timing cover. The timing chain can wear thru the cover straight into the water pump cavity if the guides broke and it was driven for a while.

[4RnrRick]

fprbrooks - those pictures that you posted early seem to be .BMP's (but I could be wrong) can you convert them to .JPG's so the page loads faster???

[4RnrRick]

Originally posted by fprbrooks
That is awsome info Rick Thanks
Do you have any idea where this plug goes?

No Problem....

Looks like the AC clutch plug.

[HighToy]

Damn Rick.. both you and Crash need to move to Norcal. Some of us always need help with something.

[4RnrRick]

Originally posted by HighToy
Damn Rick.. both you and Crash need to move to Norcal. Some of us always need help with something.

Thanks for the invite but too many damn people down there for me! The town I live in has only 7-8000 people and I like it that way. That and I always have projects of my own going on. If I lived down there my Wife would never see me. But it sure would be nice to live closer to real ROCK'S and bigger stores. Places like Harbor Frieght, Tire shop, Costco, Real Department Stores and Bulk Food Stores are 30 miles away.