ifs hub swap for solid axle...don't need a spacer

joshua_kuhl · 04-26-2004, 05:05 PM

I have heard that there is no need for a spacer when doing the ifs hub conversion on a solid front axle to get the wider track width and upgraded brakes. You just mount the caliper on the other side of the existing solid axle mount tab which give you the 1/1.5" wider track. I heard this from an all pro guy that installed it on his own rig. Anyone ever try to do the ifs hub swap and not use a spacer? Did it work well? Or do you wish you had the spacer?

OOP'S · 04-26-2004, 05:06 PM

In my opinion, Unsafe, especially on a DD!!!!!!!!!

joshua_kuhl · 04-26-2004, 08:10 PM

thats exactly what I was thinking, but the all pro guy actually said this after I said I wanted to order the spacers. I'm basically wondering if any DDs have tried this setup? I have a daily round trip comute in my mini of 70miles and yep, I'm starting to go deaf.

dkirkup · 04-26-2004, 10:13 PM

I am running IFS hubs on a SA as my DD. If you look at a F350's brake setup it's identical to the way I now have mine. What difference does it make which side the caliper is on. You are still relying on a bolt to hold the caliper to the steering knuckle.

suv · 04-26-2004, 10:16 PM

I saw some pics of one done that way, and I did this

for a while. After looking closer, I went

. It looked very unstable and weak, but the guy said it worked great. Personally, I wouldn't feel safe with it on my rig.

suv · 04-26-2004, 10:33 PM

Went back and read the thread:

This one

After reading it again, I think it probably would work, but it makes me a little nervous anyway.

OOP'S · 04-26-2004, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkirkup

I am running IFS hubs on a SA as my DD. If you look at a F350's brake setup it's identical to the way I now have mine. What difference does it make which side the caliper is on. You are still relying on a bolt to hold the caliper to the steering knuckle.

The F350's are engineered to be run that way. The Toyotas are not. If you look at the mating surface, they are machined flat, on the other side they are not. You can go ahead and think they are safe, but in my opinion, you are a fool. All you are relying is the ears on a non-machined mating surface. Take a basic engineering course and you will see.

Poor A$$ Stock '93 · 04-27-2004, 12:08 AM

I am not saying that it won't work, but I have to wonder about anyone who compares anything to Ford engineering!!! I have worked w/ F350s for years and I don't trust a single part on the pieces of shit.

KarmirToy · 04-27-2004, 01:19 AM

-IFS Hubs
-V6 Calipers
-Vented Rotors
This setup I did on my rig a few months back... been to the hammers with it no problem, sees 60-70 miles a day to work, school, and back had to mash and lock a up the brakes because of stupid CA drivers numerious times with no problem...

[edit]
if you are going to go this route... you have to weld a nut on one side of the caliper, or thread the existing hole so the bolt will go through and tighten.
2nd a either the knuckle or the caliper mounting surface requires to be machined flat, 1 because it needs to realine on the rotor and 2 contact surface (I took off .010 off the caliper) you will have to grind some of the inner wells of the caliper beacuse the fended rotors a almost contacting the sides.

let me know if you need more info.

KarmirToy · 04-27-2004, 01:43 AM

cruzila · 04-27-2004, 09:32 AM

Kamir has done it as best as can be done. It is important to machine the mating surfaces very precise. The only thing I do not like about that is the limited surface contact around the bolt head. I would use a large washer or machine a plate to cover the surface on the backside. It creates a shear point with just the head contacting. Otherwise I think it would work fine.

joshua_kuhl · 04-27-2004, 11:05 AM

thanks for all the great info KamirToy. I'll give it a shot and let you know how it turns out.

KarmirToy · 04-27-2004, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzila

The only thing I do not like about that is the limited surface contact around the bolt head.

lol... I just sqweezed the bolts in temporarly to take a snap shot... don't mean I didnt use washers at the end...

dk5 · 04-27-2004, 01:57 PM

sweet. i was just about to try this and could not find any info on it. thanks for the research and write up karmir.

04-26-2004, 05:05 PM	#1
joshua_kuhl Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Member # 20817 Location: San Jose Posts: 41	ifs hub swap for solid axle...don't need a spacer I have heard that there is no need for a spacer when doing the ifs hub conversion on a solid front axle to get the wider track width and upgraded brakes. You just mount the caliper on the other side of the existing solid axle mount tab which give you the 1/1.5" wider track. I heard this from an all pro guy that installed it on his own rig. Anyone ever try to do the ifs hub swap and not use a spacer? Did it work well? Or do you wish you had the spacer?

04-26-2004, 05:06 PM	#2
OOP'S Pirate4x4 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2000 Member # 30 Location: Roseville, CA,To many Yuppies, Not enough Hippies Posts: 14,098	In my opinion, Unsafe, especially on a DD!!!!!!!!! __________________ David & Theresa, Roseville, CA, Excellent Parts Source http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/ http://www.marlincrawler.com/ http://www.12voltguy.com/web/

04-26-2004, 10:16 PM	#5
suv Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Member # 21751 Location: Salt Lake City, UT Posts: 162	I saw some pics of one done that way, and I did this for a while. After looking closer, I went . It looked very unstable and weak, but the guy said it worked great. Personally, I wouldn't feel safe with it on my rig. __________________ '85 4Runner with chrome wheels and Pioneer 6x9s

04-26-2004, 10:33 PM	#6
suv Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Member # 21751 Location: Salt Lake City, UT Posts: 162	Went back and read the thread: This one After reading it again, I think it probably would work, but it makes me a little nervous anyway. __________________ '85 4Runner with chrome wheels and Pioneer 6x9s

04-27-2004, 12:08 AM	#8
Poor A$$ Stock '93 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Member # 9788 Location: Prince George, BC Posts: 99	I am not saying that it won't work, but I have to wonder about anyone who compares anything to Ford engineering!!! I have worked w/ F350s for years and I don't trust a single part on the pieces of shit. Last edited by Poor A$$ Stock '93; 04-27-2004 at 12:10 AM.

04-26-2004, 08:10 PM	#3
joshua_kuhl Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Member # 20817 Location: San Jose Posts: 41	thats exactly what I was thinking, but the all pro guy actually said this after I said I wanted to order the spacers. I'm basically wondering if any DDs have tried this setup? I have a daily round trip comute in my mini of 70miles and yep, I'm starting to go deaf.

04-26-2004, 10:13 PM	#4
dkirkup Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Member # 29957 Location: edmonton, canada Posts: 196	I am running IFS hubs on a SA as my DD. If you look at a F350's brake setup it's identical to the way I now have mine. What difference does it make which side the caliper is on. You are still relying on a bolt to hold the caliper to the steering knuckle.

04-27-2004, 01:19 AM	#9
KarmirToy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Member # 16666 Location: Glendale CA, stright-outada armotown from the streets, around the corner through the alley across the quicky-mart under the bridge over the traintracks passed the Mcdonalds left behind the construction yard stright in the land fill, up over the hill Posts: 1,248	-IFS Hubs -V6 Calipers -Vented Rotors This setup I did on my rig a few months back... been to the hammers with it no problem, sees 60-70 miles a day to work, school, and back had to mash and lock a up the brakes because of stupid CA drivers numerious times with no problem... [edit] if you are going to go this route... you have to weld a nut on one side of the caliper, or thread the existing hole so the bolt will go through and tighten. 2nd a either the knuckle or the caliper mounting surface requires to be machined flat, 1 because it needs to realine on the rotor and 2 contact surface (I took off .010 off the caliper) you will have to grind some of the inner wells of the caliper beacuse the fended rotors a almost contacting the sides. let me know if you need more info. __________________ 08 Rubicon 87 X-Cab Yota ...94 XJ (RIP)...01 Sahara (RIP)...86 CJ7 (RIP) Last edited by KarmirToy; 04-27-2004 at 01:34 AM.

04-27-2004, 01:43 AM	#10
KarmirToy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Member # 16666 Location: Glendale CA, stright-outada armotown from the streets, around the corner through the alley across the quicky-mart under the bridge over the traintracks passed the Mcdonalds left behind the construction yard stright in the land fill, up over the hill Posts: 1,248	Attached Images __________________ 08 Rubicon 87 X-Cab Yota ...94 XJ (RIP)...01 Sahara (RIP)...86 CJ7 (RIP)

04-27-2004, 09:32 AM	#11
cruzila Zeus of the Sluice Join Date: Aug 2001 Member # 6650 Location: Garden Valley Posts: 4,025	Kamir has done it as best as can be done. It is important to machine the mating surfaces very precise. The only thing I do not like about that is the limited surface contact around the bolt head. I would use a large washer or machine a plate to cover the surface on the backside. It creates a shear point with just the head contacting. Otherwise I think it would work fine. __________________ Fairleads available now! Jeep, Hummer and Land Cruiser models available Last edited by cruzila; 04-27-2004 at 09:34 AM.

04-27-2004, 11:05 AM	#12
joshua_kuhl Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Member # 20817 Location: San Jose Posts: 41	thanks for all the great info KamirToy. I'll give it a shot and let you know how it turns out.

04-27-2004, 01:57 PM	#14
dk5 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Member # 638 Location: cameron park/san jose Posts: 239	sweet. i was just about to try this and could not find any info on it. thanks for the research and write up karmir. __________________ TOYOTA FOR LIFE

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