Factory 4.88 front diff

[robinhood150]

I'm regearing from the factory 4.88s to 5.29 and adding ARBs. The front diff is normal, right? I can regear and add an ARB no problems? I know the rear 3rd is wierd, but I've already taken care of that with a new V6 3rd with 5.29s.

[FuzzyZ_83toy]

what the, are you talking about? anybody get what he's saying? is he saying that he wants to run 4.88 up front and 5.29 in the rear like it sounds to me? lol that would be fun once he puts it in 4 wheel drive.

[4CrawlR]

Originally Posted by FuzzyZ_83toy

what the, are you talking about? anybody get what he's saying? is he saying that he wants to run 4.88 up front and 5.29 in the rear like it sounds to me? lol that would be fun once he puts it in 4 wheel drive.

He did mention regearing the front diff, so I would assume that means re-gearing from the factory 4.88s to something that might match the rear diff. AFAIK, there is no difference in any of the 7.5" front 3rd member housings, be it 4- or 6-cyl or 4.88 gears or any other ratio. But then again, I'm no IFS expert and I did not stay in a Holiday Inn last night either

[robinhood150]

Yup, regearing to 5.29s and Arb'ing. Thanks Roger. I just wanted to confirm that before I buy the front ARB and gears.

[cebby]

I concur with Roger. I've heard exactly the same (that the IFS front diffs are all the same). I chose to get a non-ADD diff (only the tubes are different) since I could get it for free. I think it had 4.10's.

Stepping up to 33's too, Steve?

[obex26]

For the cost of the front ARB you might as well do a conversion to a solid front axle. I say put an ARB in the rear and save your money for the front. Unless you swear you will NEVER ever consider doing a solid axle conversion. Its a disease. I am already making plans to convert a 94 extended cab to solid axle. Oh and Fuzz for your info I ran 4.10 in the front and 4.88 in the rear for about 4 months off road. Didn't break anything. (read the off road part a second time if you missed it the first time)

[OOP'S]

Speaking from experence, If you are even thinking about doing an SAS, do not waste the money. I know down the road you can sell the IFS stuff but used parts in good shape are worth about one half the cost of new if you want to be fair. If no SAS go for it they are the same, if it has ADD now, get rid of it, that is all a bolt on mod with plenty of stock parts drifting around and the IFS crap from 86-95 will work!!!!!

what the, are you talking about? anybody get what he's saying?

I think that maybe a reading comprehension class is in order, I figured out what he wanted from the git-go!!!!!!!

[robinhood150]

Yup, SAS in the future but not anytime soon. I need to buy a house first, I don't think my apt neighbors would appreciate me welding and grinding next to their mercedes. Seriously, though I've thought long and hard about this and I have the buildup process pretty much mapped out in my head.

Cebby, 33x10.5 BFGs MTs (so I can keep the stock wheels $$ and no need for the RB 1" BL $$) will be on the truck as soon as my current tires wear out, which is pretty soon.

[cebby]

Are you doing anything to fit the 33's? I was under the impression that 33" pizza cutters, even on stock wheels, will do some rubbing.

The RB 1" BL was only $95 - in the scheme of things (for me anyway), a good investment.

With stock BS wheels, you'd have some contact if you went the BJ spacer route too...

I know you are up on all this stuff already though as it's been beaten to death. You might want to ask LAMM how his rides on the 33x 10.5's. He's the only one I can think of off the top of my head who has those on a 2G with IFS.

[robinhood150]

There's s thread on 4x4wire where a couple people with 2nd gens are using 33x10.5s without much difficulty. I'm sure I'll have to do some cutting and pounding and if I have to, then I'll go the RB route.

We'll see. I've got a couple months to figure it out anyway, my current tires still have some life.

I'll ask Lamm about his, thanks.