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#1 |
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Registered User
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Welding 3rd give advice
My wife bought my a 110-220 stick welder as i was wondering what would be the best stick to use she got me 2 packs of 6011 and what amp should i set it at to weld i dont want to burn it up .
If some one would be so kind to put up a pic so i can see what i need to weld and the 3rd that would great i did search and FAQ and could not find any thing usefull Thanks Nick
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[URL=http://www.performancecryogenics.com]Performance Cryogenices[/URL] [SIZE="4"]Rig[/SIZE] 95 Jeep Cherokee [URL="http://www.myspace/com/silor"]http://www.myspace/com/silor[/URL] |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20208
Location: Pollock Pines, but dont worry, I decided to keep my full set of teeth, unlike most everyone else up here...
Posts: 2,414
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Do a search. this has been beat to death here. Youll find a pic of a sweet job some one did using a plate to cover the window in the carrier.
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[QUOTE=Myanarchy;6682920] Thanks for the tips, I think I'm gonna stick it between max volume and his boyfriend's pelvis. The force of their love could crush a bowling ball[/QUOTE] |
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#3 |
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UltimateYota Junkie
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JeepsLimited.com - Jeep Writeups, FSM's and Parts Lists
UZswap.com - A site dedicated to swapping the Toyota/Lexus UZ (V8) engines. TOOLandFAB.com - A site dedicated to tools, fabrication & workshops. Also see my My JD2 Bender Hydro Conversion |
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Member # 24837
Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 2,066
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clean that sucker out good with brake cleaner. dunno if i'd use 6011 for welding up a diff since it's so messy -- might be a good idea to use 7018
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20465
Location: -= IN HELL =-
Posts: 411
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for the rod use a 1/8th 7018 set at 130-145 amps. or a 3/32 7018 set at 115 Do not make long passes.
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1980 Toyota Pickup. 20R, LCE Camshaft, ported head and intake, Flowmaster 40 series exhaust, 4.56 gears, Spooled Front and Rear, Marlin Crawler Dual T-cases, 48"Rears up front, 63" chevy rear springs, Flatbed'd, Exo'd..... |
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 163
Location: Village Mills, TX 77663
Posts: 2,629
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i welded one up with 6011 and it made my weeklong trip in moab,but broke shortly after.my welder buddy told me it would not hold when i told him what rod i used.he gave me some 7018 and it has held so far...
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85 runner with some stuff... |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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I welded mine with 7018 and broke the welds. Next step for me is to try and weld the side gears to the case, then weld the spiders together, and maybe put in a 1/4" plate (overkill, but this is the second welded third I have broken the welds on, and last time It took out the pinion bearing).
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Garrett Matt Performance Driving & I4WDTA Certified Off Road Training |
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Member # 32142
Location: Kamloops, BC
Posts: 350
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6010 or 6011 rod is going to be a brittle weld with lots of spatter (sodium rod) . You're better off going with a 7018 or similar for something like gears, as it'll be less suceptible to breaking and there is far less spatter, not to mention that it's rated at a higher pull (70,000lbs instead of 60,000 in the 6011 rod) . From pretty much anyone I've heard welding spiders, they say it only lasts for a fairly short amount of time, and isn't really reccomended... Albeit it is a cheap option for 100% positive axle lock.
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83 Toy - Chebbies, Rears up front, 5.29's, 35" BFG Muds, Skinned flatbed, sq tube rock sliders, list is growing by the day. Pics: [URL="http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/587761/4"]Car Domain "Build Up" Page[/URL] Last edited by Keaponlaffen; 06-22-2004 at 04:03 PM. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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so i should weld the spiders and then weld the gears to the houseing ?
will this be stronger or the same i want this to last and not break!! any other ways or technic that i should adopt??? Thanks Nick
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[URL=http://www.performancecryogenics.com]Performance Cryogenices[/URL] [SIZE="4"]Rig[/SIZE] 95 Jeep Cherokee [URL="http://www.myspace/com/silor"]http://www.myspace/com/silor[/URL] |
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30434
Location: Sequim, Washington
Posts: 14
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When i did mine i used 1/8 7018 at 120 amps for the first couple passes...after that i turned it down to about 105 and just sealed everything up really well. Make sure you let it cool a long time in between passes...the last thing you want to do is warp the carrier. Also make sure you cover all the splines and the ring and pinion...i soaked mine in anti-spatter spray and then covered them with a leather glove.
So....weld one side... let it cool....flip it...weld it....let it cool...repeat until happy with the build up...and then weld to carrier... Don't let it get too hot take an afternoon if you have too later cory |
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#11 |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 187
Location: citrus heights
Posts: 3,465
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7018 and just weld the spiders where they mesh next to the x-pin shaft anything more is a waste of time
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#12 |
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Dirty WHITE TRASH
Join Date: May 2003
Member # 19850
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 1,842
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I welded a 3rd like that Gearman but I blew the spiders apart. The next weld job on that 3rd was welding the side gears to the carrier, I blew the side gears apart. The last 3rd I welded (its still in use in my truck) I welded everything together slowly using a mig. I also cut a piece of 1/4" plate to fill the window in the carrier on both sides. It has held real well so far.
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Member # 12486
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 705
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seriously how the fawk are you guys breaking these? If you are welding right you will strip the splines before you break. best to use is a MIG welder and fill that bitch up. some of you may be weakening the welds by welding little at a time and not chipping the slag off after every bead. your entire welds will be very porus and have spider web looking holes that WILL crack.
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#14 |
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Registered User
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I have welded several 3rds with a MIG without a problem. And I really abuse my junk
I weld the side gears to the carrier, then weld the spider gears to the side gears at every corner. I have never done the plate trick, but it looks like a good idea. One of the 3rds I welded is behind a Chevy 350, and the latest 3 were in the rear axle of my triple case turbo toyota with 38.5s. (the reason I am on my 3rd welded rear is because the first one was ran without gear oil and the bearings are toast. the second one was messed up by a broken axle, but fixable. None the fault of the welded 3rd)
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'87 Toyota 4Runner Turbo, .40 over, 36" Swampers. '85 Toyota XtraCab, Short WB frame, 39.5 IROKs. |
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