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Old 09-22-2004, 06:52 PM   #1
toy4crawlin
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Calling TBI 4.3 swaps in Toys

Searched, did not find it
The Toy faq and 4.3 thread does not list parts or recommendations for install

Do you need a body lift for chevy 4.3 into 85 4runner ?
Who Done it?
my 3.8 buick just barley fit with a 2" BL in my pkup so is that a yes

if you have a thread about your install please include a LINK

Also , did you use chevy pwr strg pump adapted to toy box?

thanks
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Old 09-22-2004, 10:13 PM   #2
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I would recomend at least a 1.5" body lift. I freind of mine has 1.5" BL and the air cleaner misses the hood by 1/2" . I have 2" BL with my 4.3/4L60E combo and I don't have more then a 1/2" from the tranny to the tunnel.If you realy don't want to add a BL you would have to make some body mods but you could do it if you like a lot of extra problems.

as for the power steering go with the stock gm pump. It is a better pump and all you have to do is have a custom pressure line made. easiest way is just cut the flare off of the gm pressure line and slip the toy nut on the hard line and reflare it for the toy box
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Old 09-22-2004, 11:28 PM   #3
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TOY 2 describes how I have done it and recommend doing the PS setup.

When I dropped the 4.3 in my '85 truck I did not use a body lift, but I made my own motor mounts to put the engine where I wanted it.

You'll find answers to a lot of your questions in my install info here:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/other/v6swap.html

Jay
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Old 09-22-2004, 11:47 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toy4crawlin
Searched, did not find it
The Toy faq and 4.3 thread does not list parts or recommendations for install

Do you need a body lift for chevy 4.3 into 85 4runner ?
Who Done it?
my 3.8 buick just barley fit with a 2" BL in my pkup so is that a yes

if you have a thread about your install please include a LINK

Also , did you use chevy pwr strg pump adapted to toy box?

thanks

A body lift will help, but depending on what mounts you use, will depend on how well it fits (I used crashfab mounts )

Like what was mentioned before, you can flare a toy fitting onto a gm hardline, but, be carefull. If its a factory line, the chances of breaking your flare tool are high (factory lines are a tad thicker than aftermarket)..
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash
Like what was mentioned before, you can flare a toy fitting onto a gm hardline, but, be carefull. If its a factory line, the chances of breaking your flare tool are high (factory lines are a tad thicker than aftermarket)..
Yep....I found the same. Ruined the first factory line I had.
Aftermarket one went better. I have a Proto flair kit.
Jay
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:41 AM   #6
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You must have not looked very hard- this info is in the Advance Adapter toyota swap book. It all depends on what motor mounts you use (fabbed or bought) A buddy of mine has a 4.3 TBI (in an 84) with a quadrajet carb, edelbrock performer manifold with a .75" adapter and approx 5" tall aftermarket air cleaner with th350 2" body. Trimmed the bracing on the bottom of the hood and it fits with about 1" clearance. I have a 99' 4.3l in my 80' (probably similar) with stock everthing and have about 2.5" clearence under the hood with 1.5 body. The bodylift makes things much easier overall IMO.

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Old 09-23-2004, 02:48 AM   #7
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A body lift makes things easier, but you don't need one. Like Crash said, it depends on the engine mounts. Also, a buddy of mine just put a 4.3 in his '85 pickup with no bodylift. He had to move the air cleaner to the stock 22RE airbox side of the engine compartment rather than on top like a stock 4.3 is for hood clearance, but it works well and he has no overheating problems.
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Old 09-23-2004, 08:16 AM   #8
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Unless they changed it, that's my 4.3 TBI in the AA book. When I did my sawp in '91 they hadn't a clue about TBI and didn't offer all the parts needed for the swap. I sent them all the info in the link I posted and that's where they got their info. They still published some facts wrong.
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Old 09-23-2004, 08:20 AM   #9
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I put a '93 CPI 4.3 in my '90 4Runner with no body lift. I fabbed my own mounts and built an all metal cal induction hood. Gave me clearance and extra ventilation.
I to flared my own PS hose, but here's a word of wisdom.....carry a complete spare GM hard line. I had mine go south on the trail right at the PS box and had to do some serious booty fab to get movin again. I'm looking into either a threaded adapter so I can run the complete chevy line, or yota line, or changing to a saginaw box too.
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Old 09-23-2004, 11:20 AM   #10
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OK I hear you all, about no body lift and custom motor mounts or smll BL
Having motor low would be great for low weight.
But are you using HY-Steer?
Nor sure there is clearance for Oil pan to tie rods ?

Thanks for feedback on PS pump, I figured I would stay with GM pump wich will bolt up to motor easy
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:00 PM   #11
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I have a 2" body lift, but that has little to do with the position of the engine - mine is low and as far back as possible. There should be no need (as Jay mentioned) for a bodylift when installing a 4.3. I believe Tony Bartlett used AA motor mounts turned upside down to lower the engine enough to fit in his 85.

As for steering, with my install, it's very close. You'll have to take this into consideration when placing the motor in the chassis.
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Old 09-23-2004, 03:51 PM   #12
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I have hy steer and everything clears. Mine is a little unusual though, I have my tie behind the axle, and I had to modify my oil pan. If my tie rod would have been in the front it would have fit fine.
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Old 09-23-2004, 04:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIREBALL
I have hy steer and everything clears. Mine is a little unusual though, I have my tie behind the axle, and I had to modify my oil pan. If my tie rod would have been in the front it would have fit fine.
?motor mts

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Old 09-23-2004, 04:40 PM   #14
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My 4.3 has crossover, not high steer and works fine. Max compression and I get a slight rub on front exhaust. Exhaust from Pside comes around the front under the pulleys.

GM hose will thread straight into a Toyota steering box. Threads are the same, I forget which fitting is longer. Double check first.

Used NWOR motor mount (I know, I know). On my '80 frame they either fit the motor or the frame, just not both at the same time. Had to make mods to the mounts to get them to work. PITA!

A/A bellhousing and W56. Been holding up just fine for over 6 yrs.

'82 Toyota diesel radiator, factory was three core and a drop in, works well.

Added AC later, $$$.
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Old 09-23-2004, 08:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIREBALL
I have hy steer and everything clears. Mine is a little unusual though, I have my tie behind the axle, and I had to modify my oil pan. If my tie rod would have been in the front it would have fit fine.
any pic's of this set up?
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Old 09-23-2004, 10:56 PM   #16
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Even with lift I have always run a fair bit of up-travel and only had my bump stops dropped 2" from stock. When I installed one of the first AP high steer kits, I had a small interference problem. I swapped over to an Astro pan to cure it. My motor in my truck sat reasonable low to keep a stock 4.3 air cleaner under the hood and fit the 700R4 under the tranny tunnel. My dist sat pretty close to the firewall.

In my buggy, I raised the motor a little higher and run about 5.5" of up-travel.

Jay
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Old 09-24-2004, 07:56 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROKTOY
Even with lift I have always run a fair bit of up-travel and only had my bump stops dropped 2" from stock. When I installed one of the first AP high steer kits, I had a small interference problem. I swapped over to an Astro pan to cure it. My motor in my truck sat reasonable low to keep a stock 4.3 air cleaner under the hood and fit the 700R4 under the tranny tunnel. My dist sat pretty close to the firewall.

In my buggy, I raised the motor a little higher and run about 5.5" of up-travel.

Jay
Jay,

Do you happen to remember how far above the frame your original motor mounts were? Were they level with the top, above, below? Just curious.
bkg
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Old 09-24-2004, 08:50 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockota
Jay,

Do you happen to remember how far above the frame your original motor mounts were? Were they level with the top, above, below? Just curious.
bkg
Best I can recall....they were close to level with the framerail.

BTW....I DO NOT recommend using the stock GM rubber motor mounts on a swap. Probably the one thing I regretted about how I did my 4.3 swap. I used poly bushings the second time around....tons better.
Jay
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Old 09-24-2004, 08:52 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROKTOY
BTW....I DO NOT recommend using the stock GM rubber motor mounts on a swap. Probably the one thing I regretted about how I did my 4.3 swap. I used poly bushings the second time around....tons better.
Jay
SOOOO very true..... Building a rig for the neighbor and he used the stock mounts (cheap bastid), I just laughed at him...
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Old 09-24-2004, 09:14 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash
SOOOO very true..... Building a rig for the neighbor and he used the stock mounts (cheap bastid), I just laughed at him...
Wow... I think the poly's are kind of stiff for a truck that gets driven on the road. I've been thinking about replacing the poly bushings (crash-style) with rubber for some more flex.

Jay - thanks for the info. My 2x2 square tube mounts sit on top of the frame (IFS), so the engine probably sits in a similar location to yours. hmmmm....
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