Hydroboost brake conglomerate... read/ask here

[HybridPOS]

I am doing this because there just isn't enough information in one friggen spot on hydroboost brakes. I have questions, and I hate going through 3 kazillion posts where someone asks a question and 12 others ask more questions and one persons gets answered....

Here
http://www.azbronco.org/tech11.htm
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/HydroBoost.htm
http://www.stu-offroad.com/hydroboost/hydroboost-3.htm
http://www.vancopbs.com/hbindex.htm
http://www.justinternationals.org/Bi...&threadid=2785
http://www.members.tripod.com/surfmac/21.html

Billavista's pump tech info
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ng/index2.html
he asks questions here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...oost+Brakesand a thread he started asking about what others use for their pumps
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...roboost+Brakes


pump upgrades
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.co...rsteering.html
http://www.off-road.com/ih/jweed/pwrstr.htm

Here, I searched for you
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/searc...earchid=555726
Some threads (as inadequate as the tech info might be)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...roboost+Brakes
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...roboost+Brakes
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...roboost+Brakes
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...roboost+Brakes
Peddle depression on start-up problems
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...roboost+Brakes
good info
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...roboost+Brakes
Also good info
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...roboost+Brakes
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...roboost+Brakes
And this is the priceless one that I was searching for, forever!
It's about the master cylinder pushrod length (explained well how to figure it by Kieth)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...light=push+rod


This one is not really on Hydroboost, but folks talking about different Master Cylinders they have used with their different set-ups.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...roboost+Brakes

[EnergyForce]

I noticed there are no replies?! So here it is. THANKS!!!!!! Appreciate your sharing this information.

[HybridPOS]

Originally Posted by EnergyForce

I noticed there are no replies?! So here it is. THANKS!!!!!! Appreciate your sharing this information.

Not a problem, I mainly did it so that I can refrence one thread to find all the information I need. So, it wasn't out of total nicety, it was out of pure laziness... LOL

Ok, now a question.....



Is it normal for the pushrod to stick out this far on a hydroboost? I can't find ANY pictures of just the booster with this part sticking out, so I have no refrence. I want to put a Master cylinder on here from something with front and rear disk brakes (cause that's what I have now), but I'm afraid that every M/C that I've looked at would be depressed as soon as I bolt it on. Should I shorten the pushrod? Does it even need to be? How do I know which one to buy to make this correct? I don't want to have to fab anymore than I have all ready, I would like something to bolt right on to this deal.

BTW, I found out that you can juts pull the rod by getting that little star-shaped deal out of there that retains the spring.... Of course I pulled the whole thing apart before I realized this. Hope this helps out someone in the future.

So, can anyone shed some insight on my questions?

Thanks!

[HybridPOS]

Does ANYONE have a clue? someone has to know something about these damn things....

[HybridPOS]

Well, guess I will end up being the one to know anything here... Sucks replying to your own thread. LOL
If anyone is interested, I read this link below and took his advice and shortened the master cylinder push-rod to 3 inches and rounded it off to where it looked like the original end. It sits to where it will just barely push on the Master Cylinder plunger thing-a-ma-jiggy. I'm gonna go get a dual disk brake M/C from either the Junk Yard or the parts store tomorrow.... depends on the weather.
http://www.members.tripod.com/surfmac/21.html

[MOGXJ44]

I've been following this thread because I'll have to deal with brake upgrades soon. Your efforts are not futile.
Travis

[junkyardjeep]

You are on to a great idea.It is a PIA to search here.
Possibly make a sticky with links to certain write ups and such.And only allow links to be posted, no chit chat.Would save alot of time.
Thanks

[ItsaCJ6]

OK just for reference. I used a unit from a caddy with the MC already attached. (works great). The only problems I ran in to, was that the connecting rod to the brake pedal had too small a hole for the 75 jeep brake pedal stud. I drilled out the connection rod.

I also had a slight throw issuse since the connection rod is about 3/8 of an inch longer than the jeep rod with no adjustment, so I spaced out the hydroboost from the fire wall the equivelent amount with drilled flat stock.

[PYRO]

Originally Posted by HybridPOS

If anyone is interested, I read this link below and took his advice and shortened the master cylinder push-rod to 3 inches and rounded it off to where it looked like the original end. It sits to where it will just barely push on the Master Cylinder plunger thing-a-ma-jiggy. I'm gonna go get a dual disk brake M/C from either the Junk Yard or the parts store tomorrow.... depends on the weather.
http://www.members.tripod.com/surfmac/21.html

That is the rod length if you using a Cadi MC (The chezzy drawing has the wrong length of 4",,,sorry). I don't know that length will will for other MCs, I've only used the Cadi MC.

[HybridPOS]

Originally Posted by junkyardjeep

You are on to a great idea.It is a PIA to search here.
Possibly make a sticky with links to certain write ups and such.And only allow links to be posted, no chit chat.Would save alot of time.
Thanks

Thanks, yes, searching here anymore is a real kick in the nuts... "Search Newb" and smart ass comments make it almost impossible to find any real information... Then again, if the folks would search there wouldn't be 9 million threads on the same topic.

Pyro, you rock! I'm gonna go pick up a fleetwood MC today on my way to the office. I did as you typed and not as you illustrated, cause 4 inches would not have gained me much. I figured that if it didn't work I would get some bolts and start grinding. LOL


It's a CJ-6, yeah, I have heard that the caddy hole is too small, my unit is off of a K-5 or something like that (big ass late 70's GM truck). I had to shorten my rod by about 4 inches. I just put it on the bandsaw then I ground down the edges for a little chamfer and welded the ring to where it was the right length.
To make it bolt up to the firewall I had to cut the top two inches off of the bracket and I made a template of the pedal assymbly holes and drilled the bracket so that I can put all the bolts back in when I'm done.

[Rock Taxi]

Chris, it came off a 1978 K35 cab and chassis truck. I am of little to no help otherwise, but do like the thread.

If I could have only gotten a good answer on my LT1 PS pump to know if it would have been able to run the hydroboost AND the full hydro steering, I might be running it myself....

Ed

[HybridPOS]

Ahhh, thanks, Ed. I couldn't remember what truck it was.
I will be trying to get some hoses made for this thing this week, too many goofy bends and the one to the gearbox is too short. I just can't wait to get my junk back on the trail.... LOL
It seems that there aren't any real experts on this thing, I figured that Tom would have known about your pump and how it would effect the performance of your setup. There HAS to be someone, somewhere that can shed some true professional light on this subject.

I took my tubing/pipe cutter and cut off the bends on the pump hose and I think that if I can find a flaring tool (probably at my neighbors ) I won't have to pay someone for that hose, but there is NO WAY that the gearbox hose is gonna reach. Hope to have all of this done before the weekend is up..... given I can find a hydraulic shop open on friday.

[Bill usn-1]

edit.
never mind you already had it in your list!

[HybridPOS]

LOL, thanks... You have some good information in your thread.

So now I have everything in and mounted, all bolted up and have ONE hose left to make.... Friggen looks like it's not going to fit under the hood! That's ok, if it doesn't fit I'll make a "Vent" to work... LOL. Maybe I can just put some spacers on the top and bring the master cylinder down....

also, it seems like the master cylinder doesn't get enough travel. I am going go through and finish bleeding this evening and then try to get the last hydro line made and see if it will work. If not, I'll make a longer rod....

[HI C]

BACK FROM THE DEAD
TTT


I have searched and looked through all this info. Few questions i have not been able to answer.

I am curious what is the differences between all the GM style hydroboost setups?

1. Besides the mastercylinder rod length
2. the booster to pedal rod length
3. then the fittings change between compression to oring style

Are the rest of the systems the same?

I ask because i am thinking of doing a hydroboost setups on three very very different vehicles, and having trouble finding specific boosters.

I have to do a heavy 4x4 1 ton truck, which will run a 1ton 1 5/16 bore master, but i cannot find the actually 1ton booster for it. I have no problems modifying the rods and playing with the fittings, but need to know if they are the same? IT will run all GM parts and modify to fit the actual truck.


Can you explain the accumulator differences? i read the color of the accumulator has something to do with the way the system works?

I read gold is disc/drum, and blue is disc/disc, i have seen a silver but not a clue what that is? Is this all there is to it?

Also in one thread there is a mention of gas charged versus spring charged accumlators, how does one tell?


I know this thread has been dead for sometime, but hopefully this time has been used to further research this and help answer some of my questions? LOL.

BTW nice collection of links, Thank you,

[Waylon]

Back from the Dead..

The differenances of the color accum. are

Blue 450 lbs. of NO2 for disc/disc
Gold 350 lbs. of NO2 for disc/drum
Silver unkown of lbs. from heavy duty spring inside probably used more on drum/drum.

I am positive on the use of the Blue and gold and I know that the silver has a spring in it instead of the NO2. If you need parts for the Hydro boost set ups or bolt on kits you can also try.
http://www.precisionrebuilders.com

there is another but can't find it here at the office. I have it at home, they referred me to Precision Rebuilders because I needed a new accumulator for my hydro boost.

[Waylon]

Found the other web site. These guys make hydro boost for a bunch of different vehicles. Check out: www.hydroboost.com

Originally Posted by Waylon

Back from the Dead..

The differenances of the color accum. are

Blue 450 lbs. of NO2 for disc/disc
Gold 350 lbs. of NO2 for disc/drum
Silver unkown of lbs. from heavy duty spring inside probably used more on drum/drum.

I am positive on the use of the Blue and gold and I know that the silver has a spring in it instead of the NO2. If you need parts for the Hydro boost set ups or bolt on kits you can also try.
http://www.precisionrebuilders.com

there is another but can't find it here at the office. I have it at home, they referred me to Precision Rebuilders because I needed a new accumulator for my hydro boost.

[jwag]

It looks as if you can use any GM master cylinder made after 1977 for most applications. The longer rod style will use early design / deep style master cylinder only.

Does anyone have part numbers for these? i.e. a 77-82 vette for 4 wheel disc applications?

[HybridPOS]

OK, so I ma JUST NOW getting my junk running again and I have my brakes all hooked up..... Stupid brake pedal goes STRAIGHT down, or at least as far as it can go before the hydraulics of the brakes stop it. I am thinking that maybe I need to set up the T connector so that the return of the gearbox and the return of the booster are NOT pointing at one-another. Maybe this is causing a flow problem for the return?

I see all of these threads with folks bitching about this, but nobody seems to have an answer as to how to fix it.

Does anyone have a good answer for this? Where is that Vanco guy when you need him?

[Keith]

Hmmmmm. I have a T and no problem. Sounds like air to me....

[Keith]

Hmmmmm. I have a T and no problem. Sounds like air to me....or a combo of too short of a pushrod and air in the system. How did you determine the length for the rod?

[HybridPOS]

Originally Posted by Keith

Hmmmmm. I have a T and no problem. Sounds like air to me....or a combo of too short of a pushrod and air in the system. How did you determine the length for the rod?

You might be right, maybe I need to bleed some more?

[HybridPOS]

Which rod? The one between the MC and the booster or the one between the pedal and the booster?

With the one between the MC and booster I followed somene's write up with the 4 inches thing.... and that was WAY too short. I then added another inch and that was WAY too long... since then I have shortened it till I feel it is engaging the MC correctly.
The one between the brake pedal and the booster I just bolted up the bracket and figured out how long the rod needed to be and cut and welded the eyelet from my Jeep rod to it.

[HybridPOS]

Hell, there might be a slight bit of actuation from the rod between the MC and booster, but I don't think that would cause the brakes to depress..... would it?

[Keith]

The rod needs to be set at the right length, or yep, it will make for a low pedal. It does not take much. You can set the length by having someone look down in the the MC at the compensating port, while you push the pedal down. Fluid squirt up from the port just as the pedal is depressed. If you have to push the pedal too far before the piston gets to the port, then the rod is too short. You can sometimes see the silver piston pass the port. If you never get fluid to squirt up the port, then the rod is too long, and the brakes will not be able to release once activated. But that does not sound like your problem.