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Old 04-05-2005, 06:30 PM   #1
traxman25
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Project Junior - 87 runner build

I’ve decided it is time to start my project thread. This is my first build that I started when my truck got wrecked on the expressway in Chicago. Ya, know those great city drivers trying to drive in the snow. Long story short I got cut off, hit that guy (no avoiding it), bounced across 2 other lanes of rush hour traffic and hit the center divider, with out touching another car! The front of my 87 runner got pretty messed up, as in the drivers side front corner of the frame smashed the alternator (moved about 6 inches right and about 2 inches up). I then bought another truck that had a dead engine and was partly parted out for the frame and body. Only problem was that I had to drive to Ohio to get it and I did not expect what I saw, but I was there, over 500 miles so I bought it anyway (kind of wish I hadn’t but the past is the past).

The plan:
Put new frame under old body
Put new fenders and fender wells on old body in the form of a “clip”

Front sus:
Sky’s SAS kit with high steer
Rears up front from 2 87 rear packs
85 front axle rebuilt, drain plug shaved
U-bolt flip

Rear sus:
Cheve spring swap from Sky’s
U-bolt flip kit

Engine:
Original engine runs so nothing for now, rebuild and modify after a while

Trans/Transfer:
Eventually Marlin clocked Duals
Custom cross member
High angle drive line Axles

Custom bumpers and body protection, I’m still deciding if I want to do an EXO or an internal cage. I’ve got some ideas for both.

I’ve been working on this project slowly for about a year, but I’ve gotten more done in the last 2 weeks than in the last 6 months combined.

On with the pictures:


The damage (that’s the best pic I got before I started taking stuff off)



Me with the two donor trucks at a friend’s farm. Thanks Dan!


First step: take er down to the bare frame, pulling the body off.




Down with all the IFS mounts.
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Old 04-05-2005, 06:33 PM   #2
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After getting all the IFS stuff cut off I worked slowly on the axle housing in the late summer and the early fall. I was going to clearance the housing but then decided I didn’t feel like risking the oil leakage for so little clearance, especially since this is my first rig, and I can always just do it later. So what I did was shave the drain plug, and then created a custom bash plate from ¼ inch steel. I also put on knuckle ball gussets and boxed the spring perches and steering stops. I did shave the front side of the passenger spring perch.


Finally working on the axle housing at home






That was as far as I got in the fall, and since, as you can see, I have to do all my work outside I quite for the winter. I am a big into snowboarding anyway so I was occupied with that work and school anyway.
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Old 04-05-2005, 06:37 PM   #3
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I started working again about 3 weeks ago. I now had some money so I ordered up an SAS high steer kit, cheve rear swap kit, U-bolt flips, and front axle spacers from Sky, $150 in steel, and a bunch of other little stuff.



With all the new stuff showing up I stated attacking the chassis hard core over spring break. The chassis I got from Ohio ended up sucking, but I knew I would not find a nice one around Illinois either so I just decided to rebuild the one I had. Here’s why:



I also knew that I had to make the back end stronger and I wanted a better rear cross member to mount a bumper and hitch too. I decided to cut the back off where it bends up and extend it by 2 inches. I got some 2x4x1/4 square tube for the up part and then some 2x3x3/16 for the rest. I made patterns from poster board and ended up with this:





Time to cut:
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Old 04-05-2005, 06:40 PM   #4
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I knew I was in trouble when I was cutting the drivers side frame rail and I stopped getting sparks but was still getting LOTS of rust dust, and the got sparks again. What I saw was pretty bad (and slightly expected), and made me stop and think about what to do for a while.

I saw this:



Should have seen this (passenger side):


I cut out a “core sample” from a bit farther up the frame rail and the rust was getting better. I had about 24 inches of the 2x4x1/4 tube left so I decided to cut farther up the frame and replace more. The cut came out 2 inches back from the horse collar and right after an internal gusset (anti crush I think), giving me room for fishtailing after removing the gusset. After another day of cutting, grinding and welding we came up with this:






My bro tig welding the frame for me.
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Old 04-05-2005, 08:00 PM   #5
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Next up was the SAS work. I laid it all out and stated drilling for the frame tubes. What a pain in the ass. Right from the start it was bad but then I hit another gusset.


I just got out the torch and burned it out. By this time I was just plan old tired of dealing with this frame. The day ended with the SAS ready for welding and the rear stuff suspension half done.



And no the axle will not be mounted on top of the springs, or backwards!!

Notice the only two electric power tools I use besides the welder and A/C.

After all is said and done it looks like I should have a 108 inch wheel base but I am thinking I am still going to move the front spring hanger forward to the ¾ inch position. That is all the work I got done before school started again so I painted up the new steel with the bed liner and called it quits.





That’s about it for now. I got a little done last weekend but it was prelim engine mount mock up, welding, and painting all weekend. I’ll get pics this weekend.

There are more pictures on my web site if you want to see moreWhat do you think so far???
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Old 04-05-2005, 10:34 PM   #6
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pretty cool man keep the pics coming!!!
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Old 04-05-2005, 10:51 PM   #7
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thanks, will do, it's going to get slow again just cuz of college and high gas prices. But I shoud be working on it every weekend.
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Old 04-05-2005, 11:14 PM   #8
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Awesome work! How do you like the bedliner stuff?
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Old 04-05-2005, 11:21 PM   #9
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Good work man. You're providing inspiration for me. I found my frame rot goes all the way to the torsion bar mount on the passenger side, and to just in front of the horsecollar on the driver's side. As of right now the plan is to cut out the rot, extend the frame rails to behind the cab w/ 2x4 and then start playing with 2" round tube

Ary
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Old 04-06-2005, 06:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtxracer
Awesome work! How do you like the bedliner stuff?
Thanks, As of now I like the bed liner. I didn't at first because it is hard as hell to work with when you first start (surprisingly thinner than any other paint), but now that it's dry i'm impresed. I had to remove some of it and it was not exactly easy. It's hurculiner by the way, and I did decide to prime the bare metal first.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Arya Ebrahimi
Good work man. You're providing inspiration for me. I found my frame rot goes all the way to the torsion bar mount on the passenger side, and to just in front of the horsecollar on the driver's side. As of right now the plan is to cut out the rot, extend the frame rails to behind the cab w/ 2x4 and then start playing with 2" round tube

Ary
That sucks about you frame rot. Dealing with that horse collar was not something I felt like doing yet since I don't have my dual readuction yet and I am not sure exactly where the driveline and body will end up. I am planing to cut it out after I get the dual next year some time. Also they aren't in he pics because we didn't get them welded up till last weekend, but I also plated the old to new frame joint with 1/4 inch plate, with 5 butt welds on the old frame side. I'll get some pics for ya this weekend.
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Last edited by traxman25; 04-06-2005 at 06:58 AM.
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Old 04-13-2005, 03:58 PM   #11
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The last two weekends have kinda sucked around here. I spent most of my time painting or messing up parts and having to make new ones. I got the back half of the frame primed and ready for bed liner. I also got the rear suspension mounts painted. After finishing up that stuff I started working on the engine mounts, which I am modeling after Marlin Crawlers F-Toy.
I got everything laid out on cardboard and then started to cut it out of steel when I realized that I had forgotten to make sure the engine was sitting vertical, and of course it wasn’t, so I had to start over. That cost most of sat, so I didn’t even manage to get them taced to the frame before Sunday. On Sunday I taced them up and I was tired and had to do some brake work to my dad’s and go order some parts for the truck car so I quit.
Here are some pics:













I stopped out at the farm to get some parts this weekend and discovered that the damn kids out there heaved a fucking chunk of concrete through my damn windshield. I’m still pissed as hell about that because it was a new windshield and they are about $300 installed around here. I’m not really sure what to do about it because I don’t know the family really well and they are letting me store my shiat there for free, But that is a lot of money and those kids need to learn a lesson and some respect for others things from this. Do you guys think I should make the kids pay for the new windshield? What you would do??
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Last edited by traxman25; 04-13-2005 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 04-13-2005, 04:18 PM   #12
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I would politely mention it to the owners and at least say what they have to say..whether or not you are paying to store your vehicles/parts or not they should have some respect for other peoples goods...thats unfortunate though..but good luck.
Although I can also see if you bring it up with them and then they can easily say we'll maybe you should remove all your stuff...?
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Old 04-13-2005, 04:27 PM   #13
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Dan (the land owner) does know about it. He didn't know about it untill he came out to see what I was up to for the day. I was pritty pissed and they are nice people so I didn't want to talk too much about it since I tend to be an ASS when I am as mad as I was that morning.
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Old 04-13-2005, 06:07 PM   #14
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i think i have one at home, ill give my bro a call and see if he still has it or not, if so and if i can fit it in my car ill bring it down for ya


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Old 04-13-2005, 06:18 PM   #15
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Lookin good man. Can I make one suggestion though??

I know from experience on more than one rig, "BRACE THAT DAMN SKY HANGER!" I know 3 people with em and they are all bent in and look like crap.

I would weld a small piece of tubing inside of it in at least 2 places and then weld a solid piece of plate across the bottom from one side of the hanger to the other. You may not need the tubing inside of it but I would do the bottom plating thing. With that fancy little lazer cut thing they do, it weakens up the front of it and then there is nothing to stop the metal from pushing back toward the back of the hanger. The first time you run into a rock even fairly gently it is bent.

Just an observation

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Old 04-13-2005, 06:59 PM   #16
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Thanks for the tip FatA$$.

Joe, I have a donar that still has a good window (as long as the kids heed my warning to them about breaking more stuff) that we are going to try to remove. I picked up a wire saw to cut the tape. We once had to have the windshield removed and the glass company broke the window, so I am not counting on it. Then again I might be more careful than the glass company. Anyone have any tips?? And how is the window trip held in?

Thanks
Adam

Joe I'll probly stop by Thursday
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Old 04-13-2005, 07:25 PM   #17
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practice on the smashed window but as far as i remember the trim snaps on there somehow, mine came out easy but thats also thinking back bout two years so i could be wrong
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Old 04-18-2005, 04:55 PM   #18
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I worked pretty hard over this weekend to get the frame finally done. Got the engine mounts finished, fabed a frame brace, and welded on the sas hanger and some gussets on that. Then lots of grinding and painting. Still have to paint up the engine mounts and the front spring hanger, but it is basically done. I also got my new V6 front brake calipers and ordered up the rotors and wheel bearings. I'm still waiting to have the front third, hub, and spindle sand blasted tho before I start putting it all together. I also need some 85 manual locking hubs, anyone got any???

Everyone’s favorite:









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Old 04-20-2005, 05:50 PM   #19
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nice progress

if ya need a hand id be willin to help on the weekend of the 30th,

its been a while since i got to fab on my junk so i figure its second best to fab on someone elses ,
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Old 04-20-2005, 09:05 PM   #20
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Sounds awesome man. I'd definatly be up for some help anytime. I'm hoping to get the front axle painted this weekend and the old chassis pulled from the donar body. Thats going to be a nightmare since it has no rear axle and no front tires, but i figure i got chain and a truck so, pull off?? Anyway, not sure exactly how much actuall fab work there will be but there will be lots of wrenching to do. I'll call ya sometime tomorrow.

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Old 05-03-2005, 08:45 PM   #21
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It finally looks like a truck!! Thanks to lots of help from Junkyard Joe we rocked this thing. We managed to get the front axle assembled, the leafs and axles bolted up and the chassis on wheels all by Sat. morning. Sat. after noon was spent taking the donor body off the old frame and setting the engine and body on the new frame. After taking the truck home we had some trouble getting the steering hooked up and realized that the body was sitting back ¾ of an inch too far. After trying to move it several times we realized that the rear bumper was hitting the new rear cross member which had been moved back 2 inches. After wrestling with the rear bumper mounts for a while we finally got the body set right and the steering hooked up.
Then it was time for the first round of flex testing. I ended up with 24 inches at both the front and the rear. However the front shackle was hitting the rear part of the body mount at full stuff, so it should flex a better once I trim that up. The rear will flex better when I get bump stops and front leaf wraps in. Also need to move the steering box forward about 1.5 to 2 inches.


Here are some pics:




We took her wheeling before putting the body on.


Ah finally looks like a truck!



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Old 05-03-2005, 08:49 PM   #22
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The only thing that I am unhappy with at this point is the rear axle placement. At full stuff the stock wheel hits the rear part of the fender. I am also at 110 inches where I wanted to be at 108. Either way I am going to have to lengthen the drive shaft.

Do you guys think I should just leave it there or move it? Maybe just redrill the perches, and flip plates to move forward 1.5 inches?? What wheel base is everyone running?





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Old 05-03-2005, 08:59 PM   #23
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doesn't look like the back is flexing at all, hopefully that's cause of a lack of weight in the back....
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Old 05-03-2005, 10:26 PM   #24
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The back is flexing some, but not as much as I expected/wanted. The rear actually flexed more when the front was lifted, stuffing the drives side wheel into the wheel well. Aside from the fuel tank all the weight is there, and then sum. The bed is full of parts right now.

Maybe I need to remove the over load leaf?
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Old 05-03-2005, 11:25 PM   #25
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I would leave it at 110. I have finally got mine moved to 109 and I am waiting to link mine in the rear, once I do that I am moving mine to about 112 or 114, somewhere in that range. You may just need to do some trimmin in the rear.
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