Axle testing machine

[slickrok]

Well did the Newfields get tested on the machine this weekend at the Jambo???

[camo]

yes we tested the newfields in Bobbys machine and they, like longs 4340 were unbreakable. Bobby used 300m shafts behind both and in each case the shafts failed and the birf were still usable.


I also had a set of newfields 4340 birfs installed in the formula toy and we ran trails for 3 days and beat the crap out of them with no failures. then on sunday they were used in competion, again without failure.


Bottom line is this. with the new generation of newfields and long 4340 birfs I seriously doubt anybody is going to break them as they are now stronger than the rest of your axle.

in my opinion:

if you run a 4340 joint and a 300m inner your weak link is the ring gear.

if you run a 4340 joint and a 4340 inner you will probally break a inner shaft.

that said I think these joints have really taken the toy axle to a new level. even under fairly abuse conditions the toy axle is proving to be up to the task.

[HomeGrown]

that is good news thanks camo

[slickrok]

So with my Marlin turning 4.88's and ARB's along with my stock inners and NewFields I can go ahead and get rid of my 35x12.50's and move up to a 38x14.50 with no worries then? Both axles are out of an 85.

[camo]

with stock inners I think that the 35's are a safe choice.

with a set of alloy inners you can pretty much run what ever tire you can stuff into your wheel wells. In my opinion a 38sx is about all the tire I would run with a built toy axle.

[Roc Doc]

So with my Marlin turning 4.88's and ARB's along with my stock inners and NewFields I can go ahead and get rid of my 35x12.50's and move up to a 38x14.50 with no worries then? Both axles are out of an 85.

No you'll break the inners. I broke a 4340 shaft this past weekend, but I got the new through hardened inner from Bobby Long and should be good to go.

Doc

[gnob]

Originally Posted by camo

with stock inners I think that the 35's are a safe choice.

with a set of alloy inners you can pretty much run what ever tire you can stuff into your wheel wells. In my opinion a 38sx is about all the tire I would run with a built toy axle.

what happened with your 39.5 IROKs ?

the aftermarket for toy axles has really stepped up, i am wanting to grow up and get some cromo longs and a diamond housing and some big iroks.

[camo]

Originally Posted by gnob

what happened with your 39.5 IROKs ?

the aftermarket for toy axles has really stepped up, i am wanting to grow up and get some cromo longs and a diamond housing and some big iroks.

they would not fit I lowered my front so much that they just couldn't fit

[JamisonWorkshop]

I have beat on the front pretty good. This past weekend It went through everything I pointed it at 39 Iroks. Front digging anytime I had the chance. (boy thats fun). probably 50 times.
Loving it.

No worries. I would rather have the Irok for weight reasons over the SX. as well as the better pattern.

[j-me4runner]

Axles are holding up great (39 TSL's), but now I shatter hubs (Aisins), and ring gears. Also of course have broken all the hub bolts, but there is a cure for that. BTW, if you think you shatter the hub, inspect right away, broken hubs do a # on the splines.

[camo]

Originally Posted by j-me4runner

but there is a cure for that. BTW, if you think you shatter the hub, inspect right away, broken hubs do a # on the splines.

I was shearing the hubs off on a regular basis until I had airbag do his hub mod where he adds additional studs. since then I have yet to break one.

also front range offroad is selling arp studs that should help.

[j-me4runner]

Thats what I plan to do, was going to have them machined local, but it fell through at the last minute before VROC. I dont know of a stronger hub though (Aisin), I have broke 2 in the last 2 times out.

[Booger Weldz]

i went with the 30 spline 4340/300m stuff, diamond axle housing and fror's arp studs. i bought some 17'' beadlocks and 37 Xterrains. the new wheel/tire combo was heavier than previous and i had to go back to 5.29's from the 'stronger' 4.88's i was previously using(and not breaking)...hopefully im not just stepping sideways instead of foward...

[j-me4runner]

The ones I broke were stock 4.10 toyota, was hammering it hard in a hillclimb at a comp.

[4Mogger]

Did you ever get hold of Rob at Exaxt? He was going to donate an Astralloy shaft? (Mog)

[toyotanuts]

is thier any reason to do the 6 pin if the hub will break just as easy on stock 2 pins

[wv4runner]

Originally Posted by Booger Weldz

i went with the 30 spline 4340/300m stuff, diamond axle housing and fror's arp studs. i bought some 17'' beadlocks and 37 Xterrains. the new wheel/tire combo was heavier than previous and i had to go back to 5.29's from the 'stronger' 4.88's i was previously using(and not breaking)...hopefully im not just stepping sideways instead of foward...

When are you gonna post some pics of your new bling axle

[Booger Weldz]

Originally Posted by wv4runner

When are you gonna post some pics of your new bling axle

as soon as bobby long sends the shafts to put in it, and brian ellinger sends the matching rear

[camo]

Originally Posted by j-me4runner

Thats what I plan to do, was going to have them machined local, but it fell through at the last minute before VROC. I dont know of a stronger hub though (Aisin), I have broke 2 in the last 2 times out.

what part of the hub broke ? or did it sheer the bolts off the wheel hub ?

[camo]

Originally Posted by toyotanuts

is thier any reason to do the 6 pin if the hub will break just as easy on stock 2 pins

yes because most hub failures are actually the stock bolts and dowels sheering off.

I have seen very few of the actual hub mechainism fail.

[camo]

Originally Posted by Booger Weldz

i went with the 30 spline 4340/300m stuff, diamond axle housing and fror's arp studs. i bought some 17'' beadlocks and 37 Xterrains. the new wheel/tire combo was heavier than previous and i had to go back to 5.29's from the 'stronger' 4.88's i was previously using(and not breaking)...hopefully im not just stepping sideways instead of foward...

home much are you driving your rig on the street ? and if you are is it on city streets or highway ?

the reason I ask is that in my opinion you took 2 huge steps forward in strength and 1 step back.

if you could ditch the 5.29 and put in stock 3.73 from and automatic then drive around with your front box engaged in 2 low for around town use you would have GREAT around town gearing and the strongest possible trail strength.

just a thought.

in my old camo rig I used to do that and it worked out pretty well, however it was not a daily driver. I just cruised it around on ocassion

[camo]

in my opinion, somebody needs to come up with a huge gain in strength in toyota 8' ring gear strength before the 30 spline birfs make much sence.

with both the 30 spline birf and 4340 axle setup will break a 4:10 ring gear

as well a 27 spline 4340 birf 300m shaft will also break a 4:10 ring gear.

it seams as thought the guys running the 4340 birf with 4340 axles are breaking the inner axle before the ring gear. IMHO this seems the best choice since a inner is cheaper and easy to fix then a ring gear, also easer to carry a spare stock shaft. with the 30 spline stuff spare shafts or third members are a PITA to carry

that is just my conculsion from observing several breaks including my own as well as others

[Roc Doc]

it seams as thought the guys running the 4340 birf with 4340 axles are breaking the inner axle before the ring gear. IMHO this seems the best choice since a inner is cheaper and easy to fix then a ring gear, also easer to carry a spare stock shaft. with the 30 spline stuff spare shafts or third members are a PITA to carry

I broke a (Superior), long side inner on Claw that I got from Bobby, and wasn't really bound up that much. I did have the wheel turned hard driver, so I expected a broken Longfield (ringless), but the inner sheared off right at the splines. When I spoke to Bobby about it Saturday afternoon, he pulled out the 4340 shafts he's selling now and explained the differences. The new shafts don't have an inner c-clip groove, and they're through hardened rather than being surface hardened like the old ones. These two things should be a big increase in strength, and while Bobby didn't "Warranty" the old one, he gave me the bro-deal on the new one. With that kind of service, he'll get my $'s.

I think if I break my Longfields, then I'll go to the 27 spline Cro-mo's and have the R&P cryo'd. But for now it's holding together pretty good. This with a HP ARB, 5.29's, and the FROR hub and steering arm studs.

I think it's interesting that front R&P's seem to be breaking more than the rears. I'd like to see the number of HP's vs. LP 3rd's, that have broke. I have Pig's rear 4340's and don't EVER worry about it. I hammered it pretty hard for 15 or 20 seconds on the big waterfall on Backdoor with no problems.

Doc

[Longfield]

We can also make the R/P much stronger by heat treating and cryo. them.

[camo]

Originally Posted by Longfield

We can also make the R/P much stronger by heat treating and cryo. them.

Bobby, first off I want to thank you for every thing you did to make that test happen. from making the machine, bringing it down and for all the expense it cost to break all those axles. you da man ! Thank you

second....I was thinking of a way we could test gears on your machine....I will call you with my idea and we can discuss it...

anyhow again thanks....alot of good info came from that test and I will get the paper chart we made converted to an excel spread sheet and post it on this thread sometime this week. also I will get pics up on this thread ASAP.