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#1 |
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Accurate to 1/10th
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30965
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,952
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This post includes pictures of trimming both the front and rear fenders on my 1st gen 4runner for added tire clearance, including making new wheeltubs for the rear. This is my first time doing this, so bear with me!
The offending sheet metal: ![]() I used an adjustable square with a pencil strapped to it for making the fenders out. This is about 2" for the front fenders. ![]() Am I really doing this? ![]() Looks like I used a can opener.
Last edited by TheBandit; 01-16-2006 at 08:02 PM. |
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#2 |
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Accurate to 1/10th
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30965
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,952
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Now that's better...
![]() Looks funny with 33" tires ![]() Firewall tub would be nice. ![]() Time to start the other side.
Last edited by TheBandit; 01-16-2006 at 08:08 PM. |
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#3 |
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Accurate to 1/10th
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30965
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,952
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Take this sheet metal!
![]() I always end up with a goofy smile when I do this sorta thing ![]() Almost... there.... ![]() Now I just need the courage to start on the rear.
Last edited by TheBandit; 01-16-2006 at 08:09 PM. |
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#4 |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Member # 26382
Location: pollock pines, Ca
Posts: 5,925
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outa curiosity, what did you do to keep the cut from being razor sharp? on mine, i left about half inch of material beyond where i cut and folded it under for a non-meat eating finish.
__________________
87 4runner d44f/9"r full width, 5.38/5.43/ARBs, superior shafts, ctm's, twin stick 4-1 dana 300 behind toy t-case, allpro springs f/r, 39.5 iroks on aluminum trail ready bead locks ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ I'm just a peckerwood who lives in the hills with too many guns. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Do people really have that much of an issue with the front fenders getting in the way? I only have some minor scraping on the firewall (needs tubbed) with 35's at full stuff. I left the fenders alone.
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#6 | ||
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Accurate to 1/10th
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30965
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,952
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Quote:
Quote:
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Cool. Looks good.
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#8 |
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4xInnovations.com
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In my opinion they look much better hacked. I did the same but not as much and just to clear skin hating rusty edges. All I did to finish mine off was carefully sand with a flap wheel on my 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. Not sharp at all any more. Oh I cut mine with the angle grinder too, got then nice and smooth.
Good job with your hack, looks good.
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4x Innovations - Quality Custom Toyota based tube products at a fair price
Check out the 87 Runner trail rig. -Adam- 1-608-348-4880 |
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#9 |
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The Quiet One
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How much can you cut in the rear before you have to weld the inner back to the outer skin?
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>David > 4x4Spot.com >It only hurts the first time you agree with me... >"A little nonsense now and then is cherished by the wisest men." >***FOR SALE: 87 4Runner / 60's / 3link rear / 39" PitBulls - $7500*** |
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#10 | |
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Accurate to 1/10th
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30965
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,952
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Quote:
I cut a bit more than 2" from the front. I would like to cut a lot more from the rear so that the upper cut on the front fenders is level with the upper cut on the rear. I'm not sure if this will be possible because of where the rear seats are. I'll have to pull the interior panels off and take a close look at where things meet up.
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#11 |
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Registered User
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I think 1" will be the max. EDIT: to keep the inner fender /edit www.toyotafiberglass.com is considering making front fenders w/ 1" larger opening all around - but with the factory toyota look - for those who need this mod but with a more stock look.
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Brian K. Gallus Last edited by rockota; 08-20-2005 at 08:47 PM. |
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#12 |
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fawking scammer
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looking sweet Clint!!! wanna cut another set in a few weeks?
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-Mikey- The Party Wagon locked, geared, caged, 37s, billet grille, party lights, room for four bitches... Polygoats 4-Wheel Drive Club Poly Performance
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#13 | |
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Accurate to 1/10th
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30965
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,952
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Quote:
You gettin' some bigger tires? My problem with your 2nd gen is if I pulled out the sawzall I would have to cut off the back roof
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#14 |
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Rock God
Join Date: Dec 2000
Member # 2537
Location: Williamsport, PA
Posts: 1,774
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Looks good, I should be doing my front fenders tomorrow.
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KAJOBUILT Authorized dealer for the following companies: Corbeau Seats, Pitbull Tires, Trail Gear PM me, email me at kajo@kajobuilt.com for quotes and or orders SFC, US Army (Retired) Cancer Survivor since 2002 |
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#15 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Member # 40236
Location: Hamilton,On CANADA
Posts: 82
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Quote:
Last edited by 4runner666; 08-20-2005 at 09:49 PM. |
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#16 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2001
Member # 4522
Location: AZ
Posts: 369
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Quote:
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#17 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Member # 48761
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 9
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and after his 2nd gen you can chop up my 3rd gen. ha! nice work. it looks good and clean. |
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#18 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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Garrett Matt Performance Driving & I4WDTA Certified Off Road Training |
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#19 |
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Registered User
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www.toyotafiberglass.com needs to make some trimmed 4Runner bedsides and somehow make the inner fender an easy mate, like a large internal lip or something.
I hope they come out with the trimmed front fenders because I need to replace both fronts and would like to go with glass but it wouldn't make much sense going with factory size.. |
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#20 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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Brian K. Gallus Last edited by rockota; 08-21-2005 at 10:42 AM. |
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#21 |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Member # 42423
Location: Reno/Gardnerville, NV
Posts: 434
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Bandit: Sweet job on the fenders, what is the name of that ruler pencil tool you used to follow the orginal line of the opening, and where did you get it? Thanks.
Cory |
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#22 | |
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Accurate to 1/10th
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30965
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,952
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Quote:
This thread is being hijacked by fiberglass fenders. The whole idea of this mod is it doesn't cost anything. The fiberglass fenders are nice, but they don't look that much different from a cut fender and they cost a bunch more. It is nice, however, when you plant them against a rock and they spring right back when you're done... assuming they don't crack. My brother has been running big prerunner glass fenders and hood on his truck for about two years and it sure was nice when he nose planted is truck. Everything sprung right back to where it was after he pulled the radiator support back out.
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#23 | |
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fawking scammer
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ha ha, no... not yet at least. i'm just trying to get it all ready for SAS and 37s this winter... i'd like to cut the rear too, even though i know i won't be able to cut much... oh well. i'll hit you up when i get back in town. the sawzall looks so damn inviting...
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-Mikey- The Party Wagon locked, geared, caged, 37s, billet grille, party lights, room for four bitches... Polygoats 4-Wheel Drive Club Poly Performance
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#24 |
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Accurate to 1/10th
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30965
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,952
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Mike glad to hear you are SASing. I wish I had the money to do it myself. I think dual case will come first for me as that would be more useful I think than the solid axle. When I do my SAS I want to go three link, so it wont be until after I graduate. In the meantime I'm doing the inexpensive things that I think will be the most useful (ie, Chevy springs, sliders, Detroit)
Okay folks, day two is underway. I went for about 3.5" in the back, all the way around. Here is where I cut the wheel tub. I used the sawzall from underneath. What the cuts look like from the inside. Peek-a-boo!
Last edited by TheBandit; 01-16-2006 at 08:11 PM. |
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#25 |
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Accurate to 1/10th
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30965
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,952
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Hey Mike, can I borrow your 37s to check fitment?
When I get done with the wheeltub, this is gonna look badass. Can't wait to reep the benefits of increased uptravel without muching the fenders. I have a lot more to do on this, but I have some schoolwork to finish. The truck is going to sit like this for about another week. My tip for anyone doing this is to invest in a few sawzall blades. I did all of the above with ONE blade and a cutoff wheel. Using the same blade was a bad idea because on the second front fender and again on the rear the blade caught the sheatmetal and jerked it around pretty bad. That can happen even with a brand new blade, but after use the blade gets kinda wavey and makes it more likely. Also I would say don't let the blade stop moving. If you hav to pull the blade out of the metal, do it quickly while it's still reciprocating. This will keep it from catching and fubaring the metal. Last edited by TheBandit; 01-16-2006 at 08:13 PM. |
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