Anyone - successful electric fan setup?

[Pugsly]

When my motormounts broke on the trail a while back, the fan made contact with the radiator - holing the radiator and destroying the fan, in the middle of the desert in NW Nevada. We can save that story for another day.

Anyway, with my existing fan gone, I took the opportunity to convert to an electric fan - Flexalite 210, which fits nicely behind the radiator. The thought being that I would get better cooling on the trail, since the fan speed would not be limited by engine rpm.

Since then, I've had cooling problems that occur only at high rpm / load - like offroad in low range climbing a hill. Temps don't spike up, just climb slowly and steadily (like the cooling system just can't keep up)

So...I don't think that my current fan setup is pulling the cfm required to cool my hot 4.6.

Any thoughts on what cfm I should be pulling, and any direct experience on whether there is a good electric setup that I can go to? I'm about ready to pull the electric, but would really like to stay electric fan if I can make it work.

(It's done this with two radiators, so that's not the problem.)

[DougW]

Pugsly, I'm still working on the same problem. Hadn't considered that it's the electrics that is the issue, but you say your 4.6 didn't have problems doing slow rock climbs with the factory fan?

My 5.0 makes plenty of heat. Switching to electrics brought me into range for around-town driving. Now the only issue I have is that 100-degree desert shelf-road climb at 15 mph -- the gauge just climbs. The AC fans come on at 215 degrees (analogue gauge on top hose) and knock the temp back down unless the climb is really steep, then I have to flip on the cockpit heater and go real easy on the gas.

I've added a 21X7 oil cooler with mocal thermostat, and that helped A LOT. The heads used to diesel after shut-down before I installed it. Also have two 7" electrics on the oil cooler. Thinking of going to an all aluminum radiator before next summer.

Try the oil cooler -- it's the biggest improvement I've made in addition to a high-flow open radiator core. I mounted mine inside the steering guard -- plenty of room for it although some folks scoff!

Doug W.

[DougW]

PS: Cooler and cooler fans from www.jegs.com. Mocal thermo sandwich plate from google search.

Doug W.

[PTSchram]

I have AFIRover's truck in the shop right now to try to chase down his cooling problem.

I mounted Flexa-lite 210s as well (not sure of the model) to his truck in July, along with a brand new radiator and we still have overtemp issues. This truck has overtemp issues at highway speeds and when off-road, indicated by an aneroid temp gauge to eliminate the never accurate stock gauge.

AFI's truck has a big cam and headers, but still runs way too hot with the electric fans. I can't comment though as my high-mileage Disco with the "Overdriven" alternative fan clutch also runs hot in spite of the higher drive clutch.

I can't believe that the stock fan moves more than the advertised 2500 CFM advertised for the Flexa-Lite. DougW is one of the very few I've heard of having good success with electric fans.

[wilsby]

I have lost faith in electric fans for our applications. My Kenlowe is coming out and the stock viscous is going back into my Td5 Defender, together with a new, unmodified fan shroud.

It currently overheats slowly while towing a light trailer at 110kph if ambient temp is over 10 C.

[Old Scout]

Tons of happy users of the common and cheap Ford Taurus fan. Any Rover guys given it a shot?

[Pugsly]

Originally Posted by DougW

Pugsly, I'm still working on the same problem. Hadn't considered that it's the electrics that is the issue, but you say your 4.6 didn't have problems doing slow rock climbs with the factory fan?

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Try the oil cooler -- it's the biggest improvement I've made in addition to a high-flow open radiator core. I mounted mine inside the steering guard -- plenty of room for it although some folks scoff!

Yeah, no problems noted before the switch.

I need to consider your oil cooler suggestion. But it should still be able to cool fine without it!

[landrvrnut21]

I have a Kenlowe in my truck, and with the motor conversion, rarely it gets hot. I was having issues before I put on a thermostat control, and havent had one since. I would think that the Flexlite fans should be more than enough to cool your truck. Maybe just try a new thermostat, as they get gummed up, and stick. Also make sure your hoses are in good condition.

Another option is to add a product called Water Wetter to your cooling system. It helps improve the thermal transfer from the engine to the coolant, and then from the coolant through the radiator.

(Edit) just another thought, but do you have the fans hooked up right? If the polarity is backwards, the fans will spin backwards and do absolutely nothing to help cool. Make sure it is positive to positive, Earth to good ground.

[madcowdungbeetle]

Originally Posted by Old Scout

Tons of happy users of the common and cheap Ford Taurus fan. Any Rover guys given it a shot?

I might give it a go this weekend if I get the time, but I'm supposed to be setting up hydro on the truggy this weekend. so if not, I may do it next weekend.

I may to talk to my Circuits professor, and see if he doesn't have some insight into how to set them up in a failsafe manner. I don't plan to be one of those guys who carries around a pack of relays with them expecting it to blow every other trail ride.

[Pugsly]

Originally Posted by landrvrnut21

I have a Kenlowe in my truck, and with the motor conversion, rarely it gets hot. I was having issues before I put on a thermostat control, and havent had one since. I would think that the Flexlite fans should be more than enough to cool your truck. Maybe just try a new thermostat, as they get gummed up, and stick. Also make sure your hoses are in good condition.

Another option is to add a product called Water Wetter to your cooling system. It helps improve the thermal transfer from the engine to the coolant, and then from the coolant through the radiator.

(Edit) just another thought, but do you have the fans hooked up right? If the polarity is backwards, the fans will spin backwards and do absolutely nothing to help cool. Make sure it is positive to positive, Earth to good ground.

I think I've tried all that. Boiled the thermostat in one of my wife's pots, using her nice digital kitchen thermometer - tstat opened just fine. I also tried the water wetter, flushed the system numerous times, and am sure the fans are running the right way.

[DougW]

Hi Flow Thermostat = Mr Gasket thermo, Part #4363. Opens twice as big as stock and opens fully at it's designed temp.

Doug W.

[PTSchram]

Originally Posted by landrvrnut21

(Edit) just another thought, but do you have the fans hooked up right? If the polarity is backwards, the fans will spin backwards and do absolutely nothing to help cool. Make sure it is positive to positive, Earth to good ground.

The polarity is dependent upon whether one has the fans mounted in front of, or behind the radiator. The Flexa-Lites are able to be mounted in either configuration.

I'm not anywhere near sold on the electric fans. I believe my next step may be to go with a fixed fan setup, sans clutch. As my truck probably won't be street-driven much, and if it is, not far, I'm not too concerned over the further loss of fuel mileage.

PT

[aaron t]

ford taurus fan, a few bucks at the p and p and draws better air than any aftermarket fan, but it has a huge turn on current spike.

[jwrape]

I have a Volvo C70 electric Fan in my Mustang 5.0 and it hardly ever even gets up to temperture when on the highway or in traffic. In the winter it hardly gets warm enough for the heater.

I have gone through 3 other electric fans since I made the conversion. But the Volvo fan is definately the best. I try to stay above 2400 cfm's. Approx. 16-17" diameter fan is what I use in my Stang. For the Jeep I think the radiator is skinnier so the shroud from the Volvo might not fit but it could be modified I;m sure.

[aloharover]

This is what I used
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...2&autoview=sku

Its 4600 cfm. Fits in a Series/Defender engine bay.

I have a similar, but much smaller unit specifically for the 10x20 oil cooler. Cooler has an in line thermostat.

This is a hot rodded 6.2 diesel. When I push it on steep climbs it still gets warm, but otherwise it runs very cool.

I need to fix the exhaust, still too restrictive, and get the dual snorkles hooked up. Cool air in + easier path for the hot air out = happy engine.

But I digress.

I love the dual fans I got from Summit. Worth every penny (dollars really)

Pete

[Pugsly]

Originally Posted by aloharover

Its 4600 cfm. Fits in a Series/Defender engine bay.
I love the dual fans I got from Summit. Worth every penny (dollars really)

Pete

4600 cfm compared to the 2500 I'm getting now - that's quite a difference! So it will fit in a Defender bay with a petrol V8? Just asking since you said you are a diesel I think, which would not be as long an engine?

[aloharover]

Originally Posted by Pugsly

4600 cfm compared to the 2500 I'm getting now - that's quite a difference! So it will fit in a Defender bay with a petrol V8? Just asking since you said you are a diesel I think, which would not be as long an engine?

Think Hummvee engine. 700lbs. Bib, big block V-8. Bigger then anything Rover ever thought to jam under the hood.

I will measure the thing.
I did post up photos here. Let me find the thread.

Pete

<edit> http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...series+cooling

I had to build a custom rad support to fit the radiator. Fans fit fine. The cooling fan is 27.5x17.5x4

[Dougal]

I've got two toyota corona fans in mine.
When hooked up in parrallel (12v to each), they draw about 15amps and are loud enough to hear at idle over a diesel engine. In series (6V each) they much much quieter, one day I'll have a second heat switch to trip them from series to parrallel as the temps rise.

They fit side by side nicely on the rangie radiator and have their own sheet metal shrouds.

If you want fail-safe, you wire them up either to a dash board switch or do the mazda setup where they're normally on with the ignition and the heat switch turns them off when the engine is cool. Heatswitch dies and the fans stay on.
I'd still suggest keeping a spare relay in the toolbox though.

[tobbjo]

Well, I'll might as well chime in.
Ran two SAAB 900 (old style) fans side by side in my rangie for a few years. Worked OK in Sweden, but in hot and hilly Pyrenees I had overheating on long uphill climbs. Thought it was related to voltage drop in my wiring, so installed separate relays one for each fan, no change. With a marginal charging system it was even worse, the voltage drop made the engine temp gauge read low, so I did not see an enigne boil at one time. Heard it when I idled, though
Even with a healthy 70A Volvo alt they did not cool enough when ambient was over 25C (about 80F?)
Handy when going in water, but since 2003 I use only viscous (the viscous coupling die and need periodic change) and no overheating since.
Also water is no problem only making a mess in the engine compartment in mud.
I once sank in a (partially) frozen swamp. Leaned to front left. The Range Rover decals on hood were under water,
Engine idled fine, with viscous fan, for over an hour before I was recovered.
Probably did not spin much because of the cold. The engine temp gauge did not register any heat, but the oil pan was submerged in ice water...

So the scare about viscous fans is in my view overrated, there is a much bigger risk in electrical fans.

PT can the fan blades take the speed in which you will spin them. I assume the viscous does not let the fan spin at the full engine revvs as you get it?

I did it once to my rangie and the noise from the fan was substantially louder with mechanically driven fan, so I assume it spins more then. I did not dare to revv too much for the short period I ran it like this.

Tobias

[Hendo]

flexalite suck big time ,even the kit they make for chevy trucks ,took it out aand sent it back . they suck ,taurus all the way with no problems

[aloharover]

Originally Posted by Hendo

flexalite suck big time ,even the kit they make for chevy trucks ,took it out aand sent it back . they suck ,

Don't you just love baseless opinions?
I mean great way to add content to the discussion

[PTSchram]

Originally Posted by tobbjo

I once sank in a (partially) frozen swamp. Leaned to front left. The Range Rover decals on hood were under water,

PT can the fan blades take the speed in which you will spin them. I assume the viscous does not let the fan spin at the full engine revvs as you get it?

Tobias

Gee, sounds like a coupla the drownings I had when you were with us I'm still surprised my redneck ignition waterproofing kept the engine running that long!

As for the rigid fan, I'll use parts indicated for the same application as the fan clutch I'm using now. Hence, I would expect it to work as well, if not better. If the fans are acceptable for use on a 4.3 Chevy that will likely see higher revs than my trail rig, I'm not gonna sweat it. Also, I believe that in a past discussion, someone here was using the same rigid mounted fan I intend to experiment with.

I'd pull the damned Flexa-Lites offa AFI's truck, but the way I have them mounted, it'll be too much of a PITA to remove them just for an experiment and, as he's more of a CB than I, he won't wanna pay me for the experiment, even if it is successful (see, when he goes on vacation, I can fawk with him too )

Lastly, what the hell did you do with my seal puller? I can't find it anywhere!

PT

[DChapman]

I have the Flex-a-lite fan set-up. I have been running it for about 3-months now, with no problems at all when used in conjunction with the elec AC fans.

When I installed the fans, I also installed an analog water temp gauge.

Since the install, my AC fans died. Now, when the AC is on, and the truck is at idle, it will get a little warm over time (10-15 minutes). It never did this when the AC fans worked... But, I'm not 100% sure this is really the case. Even though my new gauge reads 220, the OEM gauge read "normal". The new gauge sender is mounted on the Pass side of the engine, in that hole next to the motor mount, thus the "line" runs just past the header. This could be an issue with an accurate reading???

As far as wiring, I ran right off the battery to a relay. From the relay, I went to a toggle switch and on/off light. So, the fans comes on with the ignition switch, unless I turn it off manually. I also mounted a second relay and toggle switch so I could kill one fan if ever needed (winter time, maybe??)

Around town, with no AC, truck sits at about 165-170. With the AC on, and no AC fans, I'm running 190....Although the OEM gauge reads "normal" the entire time (it does work!!).

This is on a D1, with a 4.6L, hotter cam, headers, no cats, OEM thermostat....

Anyone have some AC fans for sale?

[tobbjo]

PT I don't remember ever using the seal puller. I rmember you mentioning there was one, but I f-d with the chisel and stuff instead. i can be stubborn at times Says the man who tried for half an hour to get the seal in the wrong hole!

Tobias

[PTSchram]

Originally Posted by DChapman

Anyone have some AC fans for sale?

Yes! Shoot me a PM and we can discuss.