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TBItoy's Three Link f/r, exo cage and front clip

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42K views 125 replies 43 participants last post by  TBItoy  
#1 ·
Summer of 2004 the toy got the 305 700r4 swap. I ran it with welded ifs and rear diff, it did ok in the mud out in west TN.
When I came to Cookeville for college I got to play on the rocks for the first time and I knew the IFS wouldnt cut it. After riding at Short Mtn. with the DixieCrawlers my front end sounded like an angry Grizzly bear in a towsack. Luckily I had a donor!
I decided on three link suspension with coil springs front and rear and figured I might as well do an exo and a narrow front clip while I was at it.

The donor. layin frame
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The victim... or the chosen one
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#3 ·
parts.

Links will be 1.75"x.375" wall DOM lowers, 1.5"x.25" DOM uppers and panhards.

Flex joints from suicidedoors.com with 1.125" stud on axle end of links
K-10 Energy susp. spring bushings on the frame end of the links with 2"x.25" wall sleeves.

Stock v-8 XJ coils with some twin tube 13" Edelbrock IAS shock I got from summitracing for $20.:shaking:

exo cage, sliders and narrowed ( dovetailed ) front will be 1 1/4" Sch. 40 pipe bent with a Harbor Freight bender ( or the Universal Pipe kinker, as a buddy called it--I think I'll prove him wrong):grinpimp:
 
#4 ·
Your rig looked pretty good for IFS. What size are those Iroks? They look really wide.

how much do you think you'll be able to dovenose it with the V8 in there? I imagine a stock engine bay would be tight enough as it is...
 
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#5 · (Edited)
more!

Big_Ern said:
Your rig looked pretty good for IFS. What size are those Iroks? They look really wide.
how much do you think you'll be able to dovenose it with the V8 in there? I imagine a stock engine bay would be tight enough as it is...
Click to expand...
Those are 36 Iroks on 8" wheels. The radiator is in the back so, I am going to make the front look something like a formula toy, one hoop all the way around the front with two down bars to the winch plate.

I got the axle cleaned up and pressure washed. It leaks. everywhere
AND
Links! Had to turn out the inside of the tube about .035" to make it tap correctly. Man those joints are cool
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And Dad and I built a welding table to have a place to work.
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#6 · (Edited)
OK. some truck progress

Moved the steering box forward. I used the old front hole as the new rear hole and cut a sleeve out of one of my parts truck frames so I wouldn't have to try and find something else and could use my stock hardware. Oh and I cut part of an old steering shaft to extend mine.
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the top tube is into the front edge of the front crossmember, but i needed to clearance it for the water pipe any way :shaking:
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#8 ·
JamisonWorkshop said:
I know you didnt just use cast iron fittings on the radiator plumbing :rolleyes:
:D
Just using the sch 40 is enough. I know you dont want to kink the pipe and all.
Did you have that in there before?
Click to expand...
Actually they are cast steel. The water pipe is $$$ stainless sch.40,$$$ I got a deal on it though . But the stainless elbows were about 40 bucks a piece and we had to route it around the IFS stuff when we did the engine swap and it is impossible to make bends that tight.

BTW my dad is a certified welder so he welded all the elbows and the exhaust manifold that I had to make.
 
#11 ·
Bones said:
I like this build. Good luck with it all.

Please tell me you were locked up front with IFS and 36's though. I bet you broke it more than once either way. I had 33's and locked and blew mine up a few times before I cut it off. :beer:
Click to expand...
Yeah it was welded! i actually broke 2 R&P but never a cvshaft
 
#15 ·
Joints

They are Super Flex Joints from Thorbecke brothers. I have the ones with the 1 1/8" stud. http://www.suicidedoors.com/4LinkParts4-LinkBushings.php
They seem to be great quality and the studs are beef, they come with hardware too :grinpimp:

I bent up some 1/4" plate into channel with 2 5/8" inside and some with 3" inside for the link bushings and some 2" inside for the panhard bar brackets. It is not as quick as simply using tabs but should be stronger and I used the channel as a coil mount too. :cool2:
 
#17 ·
Looks like we got a mini-trucker on our hands......

From Jason Thorbecke's site - "These super pivot end links are a must if you are wanting to hit mad crazy sides." I've ordered from them and they are FAST shipping.. I got my handle relocater in my hands like 2 days later across the country!





I like the build so far, can't wait to see how you dove the front of the truck.

I have a 350 swapped in my yota and was considering it but decided against it since I figure'd that I'd mess something up.
 
#23 ·
TheBandit said:
What is the hole for in the main truss? The one above and to the driver's side of the fill plug.
Click to expand...
It's a speed hole man! It's gotta be worth at least 10 hp! Naw actually i got frustrated trying to get the truss to fit like i wanted so i put a piece of tubing in it. :rolleyes: It should stiffen the truss alittle, not that it needs it.
 
#25 ·
Hyena said:
Really nice build so far. Have you test fitted with the tires to see if they hit the links fully turned? I looks like the links are mounted outside of the spring perches a bit.
Click to expand...
yep the tires hit real bad, but I am going to use my ifs hubs and some 1.5" wheel spacers.

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I put the hi-lift in my back bumper to lift the frame level. Looks like it will have about 2.5" of lift over stock.

floor jack flex
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i've still got to bumpstop it and put on some limit chains.
 
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