Building a 4.6 stroker

[cj7greenmachine]

Anyone built a 4.6 stroker motor? Any advice or tips?

[yuppiedood]

nope, never. but ask again tomorrow.

[cj7greenmachine]

Thanks

[preach]

Originally Posted by yuppiedood

nope, never. but ask again tomorrow.

That was actually pretty funny.

[slamigo]

http://www.rockcrawler.com/techrepor...er40/index.asp

[brokenujoint]

only cuz im nice today! PS EMAIL ME IF YOU WANT THE LINKS TO THE SOURCES...

•Block: 1996-98 TJ or Cherokee block number53020569 Scotty’s 4x4 (909) 829-2913 200.00
•Crankshaft: 1972-80...#3214723...12 counterweights, 66lb, 64mm nose *shorten crank nose 1.0 cm* link to crankshaft 155USD +25USD core charge
•Crankshaft rear main seal: #05018594AA: INCLUDED BELOW with MAIN BEARINGS 0
•Crankshaft pilot bearing: #53009180AB: Engine Tech 818-999-3451 Richard 13.21
•AMC 258 rods: pn 3180444 (71-81 707 casting) with ROD BOLTS Engine Tech 818-999-3451 Richard 159.00
•Pistons: Sealed Power 677P +0.020 pistons #STL-677P20: 122USD pistons enter 677p20 Engine Tech 818-999-3451 Richard 118.04
•Piston rings: Hastings +0.020 cast piston rings #667: Engine Tech 818-999-3451 Richard 20.05
•Rod bearings: Clevite 77 rod bearings #CB-960P-20(6): from Atlanta Crankshaft Exchange. About 60USD or from summit for 38.00
•Main bearings: Federal Mogul main bearings #FM7211M.030: 1st choice shows up as FEM-7211M 61.00
•Also mentioned is the Clevite MS-1947P main bearings for the 91+ 4.0 heads.. 61
•Main bearing studs: stock
•Main bearing girdle spacer kit: (14 hardened 5/16" steel washers): 1.00
•Main bearing girdle and retaining nuts: dealer 16.00
•Camshaft sprocket bolt: #83502890 & washer #J3173284
•Crank harmonic damper: #33002920T: 29.00
•Timing gear and chain: CLO-9-3127 link to timing gear and chain 113.00
•Oil pump: Melling Oil Pump M81A from Engine Tech 818-999-3451 Richard 56.48
•Oil pressure sending unit: Autozone 29.14
•Pioneer brass freeze plugs x7: 7.00
•Engine Tech Complete Gasket set #j242L-47 Engine Tech 818-999-3451 Richard 70.84
•Includes Victor Reinz lower #CS-5713X and Victor Reinz upper gasket set #HS-5713Z
•Oil Pan: link 62.00 or 40.00 junkyard
•Crane CRN-753905 Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 260/ 272, Lift .456/ .484, AMC Inline Six 110.00
•Clevite 77 camshaft bearings #SH-549S: Engine Tech Cam Bearings #CC480 Engine Tech 818-999-3451 Richard 8.11
•Lifters: CRN-99278-12: 179USD from lifter link #HT2011 Engine Tech 818-999-3451 Richard 37.08 1265.93
•Cylinder head

•1991-95......7120 60lb. Valve head diameter is 1.91" intake/1.50" exhaust.
Cylinder head: 94 jeep grand cherokee, ported, 3-angle valve grind , regrind the valve seats 124.00 (purchased)
•New head bolts: 29.95
•Valves: Mopar Performance 2.02/1.60 valves for the Dodge/Jeep Magnum 5.2/5.9 V8. 15.00 ea x12 = 180.00
•Pushrods: pushrod link 12.50 for 4.0 and 32.50USD 4.2 or 818-999-3451 Richard 28.05
•Mopar Performance valve springs #5249464 valve springs 10.99 each x 12= 131.88
•Mopar Performance retainers #4452032 retainers 6.95 each x 12 = 83.40,
•Mopar Performance locks #4529218 locks 17.69 set of 16 : 153 from valve stuff link or 818-999-3451 Richard 252.00
•Rocker arms, bridges, pivots, & bolts: stock '95 free with head
•Valve cover: free with head
•Temperature sending unit 17.95 do not install sending unit until coolant is in engine.. This allows air to escape.


• Engine Shop Work

0.020" overbore & hone
Press in new cam bearings
Press pistons onto rods
Regrind valve seats
Clean, polish, & lap valves
Acid dip valve cover
Press freeze plugs into block
Cut crank snout
Get rotating assembly balanced

Block prep

The block went to the engine shop where the cylinders were bored +0.020" & honed, and the block Decking the block 0.010.. After I collected it, I carefully removed all the old gasket material from the oil pan/timing cover/water pump mating surfaces and block deck, sanding them down to an even finish. I also pressed out the old rear main seal so that a new one could be installed.
The next task was to thoroughly clean the block inside and outside. I sprayed it with oven cleaner and left it to penetrate for about an hour before rinsing it off with water from a garden hose. Since the block was only lightly coated in oil and dirt, one treatment was enough to get it looking spiff. I left it outside under the hot summer sun, blasted it with compressed air to dry, and quickly coated the cylinder bores, lifter bores, and bearing surfaces with clean engine oil to prevent surface rust from forming.
The block then went back to the engine shop to have the old cam bearings removed and new ones pressed in. The old steel freeze plugs were also replaced with new Pioneer brass plugs that won't corrode. Finally, the pistons were pressed onto the connecting rods. With the block prep now completed, I could start assembling the short block.

Cylinder Head prep

Take the complete head to the machine shop. They will clean and inspect everything. Cost is 25.00

After the shop says it's a good rebuildable head (no cracks, not badly warped), you have a green light to Port and polish the head. Then when you are finished with the porting, return it to them for the valve job and resurfacing. Bronze valve guides are optional. One reason for porting first is if you hit a valve seat with the grinder, you won't ruin the fresh valve job, and have to have it redone. BUT, you still don't want to hit the seats with that grinder, so be careful. Shoot, if you've got the money, your shop could do the porting for you. Find yourself a good shop you can trust.

. The final port dimensions were as follows for Dino’s head work:

Intake port entries (rectangular): 44.0mm x 36.0mm (C/S area = 85.7% of valve head area)
Exhaust port exits (oval): 37.0mm x 34.0mm (C/S area = 86.7% of valve head area)
Intake port throat diameter: 43.0mm (88.6% of valve head diameter)
Exhaust port throat diameter: 33.0mm (86.6% of valve head diameter)
Intake port volume = 114cc (stock is 112cc)
Exhaust port volume = 80cc (stock is 73cc)


Cc the combustion chambers after the porting work was completed and the combustion chamber volume came to 57.0cc. The head then went to the engine shop where the valve seats were reground and the valves lapped. After I collected it, I washed it thoroughly with gasoline and blasted it with compressed air to remove any remaining dust so that it was clean and ready for assembly. To finish off the head prep work, I sprayed it with matt black heat resistant paint and pressed in a new 2" diameter brass freeze plug at the rear.
The valve cover needed a good cleaning so it was acid dipped at the engine shop to remove the old paint and washed. I then sprayed it with the same matt black heat resistant paint to give it new factory look.

Assembly


Cylinder Head

The first procedure was to press new valve stem oil seals onto the valve guides. The brown ones are for the intake valves and the black ones are for the exhausts.
The next step was to install the Mopar Performance valve springs, retainers, and locks. This was an easy job since I had a jaw-like valve spring compressor and everything fitted together perfectly. The Mopar Performance 5249464 springs are single steel heavy duty units with a damper and are rated up to 0.525" of valve lift (OEM 4.0 springs are only rated up to 0.430" of lift). They install at the same 1.64" height as the OEM springs so machining of the spring seats isn't necessary to achieve the correct installed height. They're 1.42" in outer diameter compared to the 1.31" diameter of the OEM springs but the spring seats are wide enough to accommodate them without any problem. Larger diameter than stock Mopar Performance 4452032 retainers together with Mopar Performance 4529218 valve locks are required to keep these springs in place.
Finally I bolted on the rocker arms, bridges, and pivots’ leaving them loose until the head is bolted onto the block and the pushrods are installed. I greased the pivots so that they'd have some lubrication until the engine builds up oil pressure when it's fired up.
HERES ANOTHER OPTION:
HEAD BUILD

Once the short block was complete it was time to build the head. Before I started to assemble the valve train I soaked the lifters in oil, as they need to soak for one day before installation. I slid the stock valves into the head, pressed a new stem seal over the stems, placed a spring retainer on top of each spring, compressed the springs, slid them over the valve stem, and locked them in place. Stock locks can be used with the 5.9 performance valve springs and retainers. Now that the head was built I dropped a lifter into each valley, set the head gasket on, and dropped the head onto the block. I then bolted the head down, using the proper torque technique described in the FSM. Once the head was down, I slid a pushrod onto each lifter and bolted the rocker arms down. Next you place the valve cover over the head, using a gasket and more grey RTV. Bolt the valve cover to the head carefully; these bolts do not require much torque. You will either end up tearing the head off of a bolt or bending the valve cover if you apply too much pressure. Always remember to refer to the FSM for proper torque specifications. Next step was to install the distributor. Again, Dino’s site provides the best resource on how to do this properly. As a side note from his site, I had to grind off both tabs of the distributor to offer maximum rotation for fine tuning. Dino’s distributor indexing site is: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html . Finally you install all of the accessory type things, such as the thermostat, water pump, all brackets, alternator, etc. From this point on, installation into the vehicle is no different than that of a regular 4.0 engine.

Short Block

The first item that I installed in the bare block was the camshaft. I lubed the cam journals, lobes, and cam bearings with the assembly lube that Crane cams supplied and slid it carefully into the block. There were no clearance problems and the cam turned freely when rotated by hand.
I then inserted the two pieces of the rear main seal into the block and into the no.7 main bearing cap. The upper main bearing inserts went in next. I lubed them with engine oil and carefully set the crankshaft in place. After lubing the main journals, I set the lower main bearing inserts into the main caps, lubed them, and bolted the main caps onto the block. The main cap studs were torqued in stages to 80lbft.
With crank & cam in place, the timing gear could be installed. The timing marks on the crank & cam sprockets must be facing each other to ensure correct cam timing. The cam sprocket retaining bolt and washer were installed and the bolt was torqued to 80lbft. After placing the spring/thrust pin into the cam bolt recess and sliding the oil slinger over the crank sprocket (cupped side facing forwards), the timing cover with chain tensioner and new oil seal was bolted onto the block.
The crank pulley with spacer went on next and this enabled me to install the distributor, index it, and bolt it down.
The piston/ring/rod assemblies were carefully installed in their respective bores and the rod bearing clearance was checked before the new ARP rod bolts were finally torqued to 35lbft.
When the main bearing stud girdle was placed onto the studs, the pads on either side of the crank's no.2 and no.5 rod journals interfered with it. To solve that problem, the girdle was raised by placing 5/16" hardened steel washers between the girdle and the main bearing studs, some have used 3/8 SAE washers, and it may still hit…. Use enough washers until it does not. The girdle was then secured by torqueing the retaining nuts to 35lbft.
The oil pump was then slotted into place, bolted down, and the short block assembly was completed by bolting on the oil pan with a new gasket.

Long Block

The short block was turned with the block deck facing upwards so that the valve lifters could be placed in their bores. The underside of the lifters should be coated with assembly lube before insertion to prevent rapid wear upon start up.
The cylinder head assembly with head gasket were carefully aligned with the block deck and bolted into place. The cylinder head bolts must be torqued in the correct sequence in stages to a final torque of 110lbft (100lbft with Loctite for the no.11 bolt on the driver's side front corner).
The pushrods were placed into their bores ensuring that they were properly seated in the lifters, and then aligned with the pushrod cups of the rocker arms before tightening down the rocker arm bolts. With the valve cover and gasket bolted onto the head, the long block assembly was complete and ready to go into my Jeep.
I recommend removing the access plate and packing the pump full of Vaseline. This provides more suction and instantly gets oil pumped to the rest of the engine on initial startup, rather than having a few seconds of dry running which can cause undesired damage. Instead of this you can also use a drill to turn the oil pump before starting to get oil pumped through

Assembly of the block

Put the top half of the main bearings into the block
install the rear main seal into the block and into the number 7 main cap
set the crank on top of the bearings
put the bottom half of the bearings into the main caps, put a piece of plasti-gauge in-between one of the bearings and the crank, and bolted all caps to spec. I was satisfied with the clearance, it was within spec.
I then checked the other bearings with plasti-gauge and was satisfied with all of the bearings.
Next step was to press the piston rings onto the pistons. Ring End-Gap
Your automotive machine shop should have installed the new pistons onto your connecting rods so your first operation is to check ring end-gap in the engine block. Ring end-gap is the amount of space left between the ends of the piston ring when it is compressed and installed in the engine block. You can purchase either "pre-gapped" piston rings or "file-fit," which are oversize with smaller gaps. This allows you to file the ends of the rings for the end-gap you desire. Most hobbyists use pre-gapped rings because it saves considerable time and effort. Racers who are always looking for that last little bit of power file-fit their rings for less blow-by through the gap. Regardless of which style of rings you buy, you must check the end-gap of the top and 2nd rings by evenly pushing them down the cylinder bore approximately one inch. Using the top of the piston to "square" them up in the bore works really well. Then, using a strip feeler gauge, measure the ring end-gap. The correct gap can be found in the instructions in the ring box or in any good engine manual. A general rule of thumb is .004-inch end-gap per 1.00-inch bore diameter. A 4.00-inch bore engine would require .016-inches of end-gap. If the gap is too small the end of the ring can be filed for a larger gap—just be sure to smooth off the edges with a fine sharpening stone after using the file. If the gap is too large, exchange the ring set for a file-fit set and custom gap each compression ring.

Ring Install
After establishing the correct end-gap on the compression rings, the next step is to actually install the rings on to the pistons. Special tools are available for this task, but most engine builders carefully "wind" the rings into the grooves. Support the piston when you are installing the rings: A bench vise with soft jaws clamping the connecting rod works well or a professional piston tray makes the job much easier. Start with the bottom oil ring and work your way to the top compression ring. First, the bottom oil rail gets slipped over the piston, then the corrugated expander and finally the top oil ring rail is sandwiched in the bottom ring groove. Space the top and bottom oil rail gaps 180 degrees apart and line them up with the wrist pin. Make certain that the ends of the expander do not overlap, but instead butt together. Next install the second compression ring by inserting one end in the groove and winding the remainder over the crown of the piston. Make certain that the inside beveled edge is pointing up. Next, do the same with the top ring. Be careful and take your time installing the rings. They are very brittle and do not tolerate too much twisting before they snap. Position the end-gaps of these compression rings 180 degrees apart, aligned with the wrist pin.

Ring Compressor
It's now time to put the pistons where they belong—in the engine. A few things need to be checked before you begin the process, however. First, make sure that you have the correct rod and piston assembly for that cylinder (#1 rod and piston for #1 cylinder). Next, make sure the arrow or dot on the piston is pointing forward and the chamfer on the rod cheek is facing the fillet radius of the crankshaft. (If your machinist installed the pistons correctly on the rods, this will be the case. It doesn't hurt to check one last time.) Slip the top half of the rod bearing into the connecting rod and coat with assembly lube. Slip some rubber tubing over the rod bolt threads to protect the crank surface. Next, coat the piston skirts and ring package with plenty of assembly lube, place the ring compressor over the rings and tighten until the rings are fully compressed. Rotate the crankshaft so that the rod journal is in the full bottom-dead-center position. Place the piston/rod into the block. After you have made certain that the ring compressor is flush against the block deck, you can tap the piston down into the bore. If it seems to hang up, do not force it. Remove the piston, reinstall the ring compressor and try again. The pistons should slide smoothly into the bore. Finally, remove the rubber tubing off the rod bolts, install the rod cap and torque to specifications. After installing each piston, rotate the engine by hand to make sure that the crank rotates smoothly and that there is no scoring on the cylinder walls. If you've made it this far, the rest of the engine assembly is a piece of cake. Thanks to the piston ring expander tool from craftsman this was a quick and easy task. After the rings were pressed onto the pistons, I set them in oil overnight to soak. The following day I used a piston ring compressor and slid the pistons into the block. This was best done with the block on an engine stand so that it can be rotated over. It is important to remember the order of the rods (1-6) if you had them balanced, as putting one out of order will result in a wasted balance. Remember, also, to place pieces of rubber hose over the rod bolts to protect the cylinder walls from scarring during the installation process.
Once the piston is in I popped a bearing in on the rod side and on the rod cap and bolted it together with plasti-gauge to check for clearances. Repeat this procedure for all pistons. I was not happy with the bearings I got; they showed to have too much clearance. I returned these bearings and got a fresh set. The new ones proved to be much better.
bolt on the main girdle. My first mistake was getting the wrong size washers. I originally purchased 5/16” SAE washers as Dino recommended, but for some reason they did not work with my 96 main bolts. I had to return to the hardware store and buy 3/8” SAE washers. I put one washer on every stud, placed the main girdle on top, and bolted it all down to spec (35 lbft). Next, just to make sure, I put a bolt into the nose of the crank and spun the crank over, only to find that the counterweights were bottoming out against the main girdle. This posed a problem, so I went and bought 14 more SAE washers and stacked them under the girdle. This left just enough thread on the bolts to provide for a safe tightening. The spinning check showed that the crank will spin without interference from the main girdle. This was good news. I then installed the oil pump and as stated before, I loaded the pump with Vaseline to ensure a safe start up. Next step was to put the oil pan gasket on and bolt up the oil pan. I used grey RTV on both sides of the gasket to ensure no oil leaks would occur from the pan. Finally I slid the camshaft into the block (I had the machine shop install the cam bearings). Next I slid the sprockets onto the camshaft and crankshaft, and aligned them for proper timing. To do this, set the number one cylinder at TDC (top dead center). The notch on the sprocket should be pointing at the camshaft sprocket. Align this notch with the notch on the camshaft sprocket and remove the sprockets, keeping them aligned. Slide the chain over the sprockets, and put them back onto their respective shafts. The notches should still face each other perfectly. If they do not, pull the camshaft sprocket off and adjust the chain until the notches align perfectly. Once you have this set, install the oil slinger and thrust pin and bolt on the timing cover (again using Grey RTV on the gasket to prevent leaks).


Weights

Bare block: 136lb
Bare cylinder head: 60lb
Crankshaft: 66lb
Pistons (each): 735g (563g without pin)
Connecting rods (each): 695-696g (with rod bolts)

Assembled short block: 275lb
Assembled long block: 360lb

Installation

Installation of the stroker long block engine was no different to swapping in another 4.0 engine since it's exactly the same externally. There were no problems mating the engine with my '92 AX15 5-speed manual transmission, and the pilot bearing with sleeve 53009180AB was pressed into the outer pilot bearing hole of the crankshaft. The flywheel and clutch assembly were reused
The inner pilot bearing hole diameter of the '92-'04 4.0 crank (left) is smaller than that of the AMC 258 crank (right) and that of the '87-'91 4.0 crank so if you have a '92-'04 AX15 or NV3550 manual transmission, pilot bearing with sleeve 53009180AB (1.82" OD x 0.75" ID) should be pressed into the outer pilot bearing hole of the AMC 258 crank. It's the same diameter as that of all 4.0 cranks. Pilot bearing 53009181 (1.00" OD x 0.75" ID) is too small to fit in the inner hole of the AMC 258 crank.
Break in period

When you first start your engine (and you are confident it will run for a while), don't let it just sit there and idle! Run the engine up to 2000 RPMs for about 20 minutes before leaving the garage. This is necessary to break in the new cam.
For the first 500 miles, take it easy on the engine. This is your break-in period. It is recommended that you spend your first 500 miles varying your speed and RPMs. Don't take the engine on a long extended road trip during this break-in period.
After 500 miles, change the oil and filter. This will eliminate any unwanted debris from the new engine.
Make it a point to check the coolant levels a few times to make sure all the hoses are tight and the radiator is full. Your new engine may run warm for a while as it is breaking in.
It should take the engine between 500 and 1000 miles to fully break in and "loosen up." Until the engine is broken in, it may not feel as strong as it will eventually get.



DO YOU KNOW HOW LONG IT TOOK ME TO GET THIS INFO AND FIND THE SOURCES AND PRICES!!!!?????

YEAH, YOU'D BETTER SAY THANK YOU!!

[93yjsahara]

shit, good post, I am in the middle of my 4.5 stroker and thought I had all of my info together but this blows it out of the water.

[offroadman83]

hell I am gonna say Thank you and I am not the original poster. I thinkI will print all that out asap=========Kyle

[MCgiver4x4]

Originally Posted by offroadman83

hell I am gonna say Thank you and I am not the original poster. I thinkI will print all that out asap=========Kyle

im not even build a stroker now but i ll do it in the future so i say tanks to you to give us such a complete info Man

i save a copy on my Pc of this post (very good and complete)

[My1stNiceJeep]

Thanks.1 question,Do your fingers hurt now?

[AGRESIVE]

Thanks for that very succinct reply.

[cj7greenmachine]

WOW Thanks man

[matts88yj]

Damn that is one hell of a post. Very well detailed and very well put together. Something like this should be published. I have a stroker now from Golen and I love it. Great info!

Matt

[slamigo]

okay, time to cut and paste and print. THANKS!

[cj7greenmachine]

Thanks man

[Skooter_Built1]

wow, thats probably the most complete, non crap filled stoker motor build that i ever ever seen. Just one question though, with that setup what size stroker did it create, i want to make a 4.7 stoker, so just wondering

[brokenujoint]

actually that is a conglomeration of many , MANY sites. alot of copy cut and paste work. i was gonna build my own and i got as far as buying and port/polishing a 7120 head., i gave it up because the way I wanted to do it, it would of only been like 900 dollars cheaper than the Golen route, that i am now pursueing.....

as for the last question as to what displacement it took, heres some more figures. its a 4.6.. by doing a 4.7 you'll have to bore to 0.060 over. you'll never be able to bore again after that so make sure that you'll want to bore that big...

Compression Ratio: 9.25:1
Calculated flywheel outputs:
Maximum HP: 265hp @ 4900rpm
Maximum TQ: 325lbft @ 3500rpm
Credit goes to credit due
Most of this info and all of the pictures
Belong to Dino from “Junker to Stroker.”

1. Deck height = Rod length + stroke/2 + piston pin height + deck clearance

9.453" = 5.875" + 1.948" + 1.585" + 0.045"

2. Combustion volume = Combustion chamber volume + head gasket volume + deck clearance volume + piston dish volume

92.2cc = 57.0cc + 8.9cc + 8.8cc + 17.5cc

3. Compression ratio (CR) = Cylinder volume/combustion volume + 1.0

CR = 760.5/92.2 + 1.0 = 8.25 + 1.0 = 9.25

4. Quench height = Deck clearance + compressed head gasket thickness

0.088" = 0.045" + 0.043"
Bore: 3.895"
Stroke: 3.895"
No. of Cylinders: 6
Displacement: 4563cc (4.6L)
Deck Height: 9.453"
Rod Length: 5.875"
Piston Compression Height: 1.585"
Deck Clearance: 0.045"
Head Gasket Compressed Thickness: 0.043"
Quench Height: 0.088"
Piston Dish Volume: 17.5cc
Combustion Chamber Volume: 57.0cc
Head Gasket Volume: 8.9cc
Compression Ratio: 9.25:1

Calculated flywheel outputs:

Maximum HP: 265hp @ 4900rpm
Maximum TQ: 325lbft @ 3500rpm
free software to see your specifications


Camshaft Specifications
Advertised Duration I/E: 260/272 degrees
Duration @ 0.050" Tappet lift I/E: 204/216 degrees
Lobe Separation Angle: 112 degrees
Intake Centerline: 107 degrees
Valve Overlap: 42 degrees
Valve lift I/E: 0.456"/0.484"
Cam Timing @ 0.050" Tappet Lift:
IVO 5*ATDC
IVC 29*ABDC
EVO 45*BBDC
EVC 9*BTDC
Minimum RPM: 1200
Maximum RPM: 4800
Valve Float RPM: 5400

[brokenujoint]

email me at kevin4332@verizon.net if you want the 2+ meg windows word doc file that has pics and everything and is more detailed. i have a few links to online jeep mopar engine specs and how to's as well. hope this is helpful.

[cj7greenmachine]

Ill have some pics in a day or soo

[SubCultureNM]

Consider Silvolite UEM-2229 pistons with the dish increased to 26 - 30 cc if you want to keep the compression ratio close to stock (will help fight the common pinging issues with the higher compression strokers). Also consider a cam such as the CompCams #68-115-4 192/200 degree so you don't have to use high-lift valve springs. The cam should work well with the lower compression ratio and make more torque than stock with good economy.

The crank and rods listed in the above cut and paste are desireable, but not absolutely necessary. I got a 258 short block from an '84 AMC Eagle for $75, and it will cost around $150 to have the crank and rods cleaned-up and machined. Talking to some local engine builders, the crank and rods I have will work fine, especially with my plan to keep the cam and compression numbers close to stock.

[jeremi]

This may be a stupid question but here goes. How does one increase the dish on a piston?

[SubCultureNM]

Originally Posted by jeremi

This may be a stupid question but here goes. How does one increase the dish on a piston?

Find a qualified machine shop and have them do it. They need a mill or a lathe (as well as the knowledge, of course). I've talked to a local shop who offered to increase the dish on all six pistons for $100. Haven't shopped around, so I don't know if that's a competitive price, though I know it's a reputable shop.