Just some 84/85 3rz swap tech

[AC]

This isn't going to be a full-blown how-to on swapping in a 3rz. I'm not going to rehash info thats already been covered elsewhere. If you need the basics and part numbers, refer to "Project Quasimodo" on this site. Rick has done a good job covering the basics, as most of you already know.

I will be reposting the motor mounts, as they are the bases of all the clearances to follow, so bare with me through that part again.

The donor 3rz motor came out of a 2000 Taco 4wd that I picked up at auction for $2300.







Was able to get this one for so cheap because it had just the right amount of damage: cab was beyond repair, airbags had been deployed (was told that it cost upwards of $3000 to replace them), and the way-too-small battery slid out of its bracket, busted open at the fan and sprayed the engine bay with battery acid.

[4RnrRick]

Ref Link: Project Quasimodo

How many miles for that price? Auto or manual?

[AC]

Aside from all the sheetmetal damage, the only mechanical damage consisted of a broken cv shaft, broken upper balljoint, punctured tire, busted air filter and relay boxes and a cracked dashpad.

The rest of the drivetrain and parts won't go to waste, as my daily driver is also a 2000 Tacoma.





Having little tolerance for rust and corrosion, I hit the motor with some glass bead using a makeshift curtain and tub (all open ports were sealed).


Think I'll give walnut shells a try next time. Even with a good respirator, that glass can't be good for your health.

[AC]

Originally Posted by 4RnrRick

How many miles for that price? Auto or manual?

Thanks for the link. Left out the good stuff: 65k miles, manual tranny, manual locking hubs. Has no cruise control or tach.

After painting all those steel bolt heads, I dropped the engine in for its first test fit. Used a come along off the engine hoist to the drivers engine bracket to get the proper tilt without having to fight the motor.

[AC]

Cut motor mounts off of my 85 4runner w/EFI (used cut-off wheel on welds).--cut both bottom welds and removed bottom plate--then cut exactly 1" off the back of the mount--weld mount back on frame (mine moved back 2-5/8") and re-attach bottom plate.

Also, its easier to mount if you trim off the excess top plate you now have and bend it upwards 10-15 degrees. Bolt it to the engine bracket/motor mount, position against frame and tack weld the sides and bottom. Then come back with a 2lb sledge and pound the top plate flat onto the frame---makes for a perfect fit.



Mount is low profile and bolt has 1/4" clearance from frame.




Before making final welds, I pulled the tacked-on mount off the drivers side frame and added a 1/4" plate to pull the motor further away from the larger dual brake booster.


It wasn't neccessry to add the 1/4" spacer, just being overly cautious. Didn't need to adjust other side, guess the rubber mounts absorbed it or the engine lifted 1/4" higher. This is the final clearance as it sits now.



On a side note, both the 3rz and 22re mounts are identical. I couldn't make a decent pair out of the 2 sets I had so I ordered some from the dealership. They (Toyota of Dallas) wanted $70.69 each for the 22re mounts. Just for the heck of it, I checked their price for the 3rz mounts--$40.11 each. Needless to say, you know which ones I got.

[AC]

Checked hood clearance, I have barely enough room to slide a piece of paper between cap and crossmember. Couple of blows with hammer should give plenty of running clearance. Engine hoist bracket (which is taller) has 1/4" clearance due to curve of crossmember.


Circled area where cap contacts. Removing that small section of crossmember could net an extra 3/4". Remember mounts are moved back 2-5/8" and I have no body lift.



Where motor sits now, I really couldn't raise it more than 1/2"-3/4" without a bodylift or body modifications due to interference from hood, exhaust manifold and heater core outlet pipes.

There's 1-1/2" exhaust manifold to firewall clearance and 1/2" between exhaust sheild and firewall.


Plenty of axle clearance with 3" suspension lift--no hysteer yet, but should clear with no problem.

[AC]

Fuel lines-- Not planning on going flat-belly, at least not in the forseeable future. Chose to reroute fuel and evap lines over tranny( to avoid exhaust pipe), as there are a couple of inches of room.


Rerouted high pressure line just above bellhousing on firewall.

The stock (12"?) Taco high pressure rubber line wouldn't reach this new location. Made a trip to the local hose shop (Midwest Hose and Specialty Inc.) They scratched their heads over the metric fittings for about 5 minutes before taking a cut-off tool to the sleeves. Three minutes later they handed back the completed hose, turns out 5/16" sleeves are a perfect fit over the metric ends. They used a much higher pressure hose (26" worth) with an abrasive cover for added protection, and only charged $5.83 for the new hose. Stock 22re hose is for reference.

[AC]

Cut about 2 foot off the engine bay side of the return and evap line off the Taco. Bent some 90* turns at the bottom ends and flared.




The return and evap rubber lines mount to the underbelly of the cab as they pass over the tranny (sleeved through heater hose for additional protection) to the Taco hardline. Also, take note of the new clutch hardline bracket.


Installed the Evap in the factory Taco location.

Old clutch master was leaking in cab, repaced it with Taco master and hardline. In-cab linkage was identical.

[AC]

Found a use for the sleeves that come with aftermarket shocks. Used oem Taco brackets where I could, used these everywhere else, for mounting to fenders.


Taco battery tray, modified and cut about 1/2" out of height.

Full veiw of drivers fender.

[4RnrRick]

Nice solution on the high pressure fuel line!

Don't forget the vacuum check valve for your brake booster....

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...hmentid=238916

[AC]

Six of one, half dozen of the other. The 22re throttle cable didn't hook up. Rather than modify the throttle bracket at the engine side, I decided to modify the Taco throttle cable. Here is the stock Taco cable--mounts inside passenger compartment firewall.



Pulled the metal mounting bracket and cut the ears off.


Swapped the metal bracket and rubber gasket, so now its just like the 22re cable(mounts on engine side of firewall) except with steel and rubber mount instead of plastic(22re). Bolts into existng holes(same spacing) with identical linkage hook-up.

[AC]

Originally Posted by 4RnrRick

Don't forget the vacuum check valve for your brake booster....

Vacuum check valve? Is that a stock oem part? None of my 3rz's have that.

Getting late, We'll try this again tommorrow.

[4RnrRick]

My donor 2000 3rz had one.... ??? also my 22RE and 7M-GE did.

[eightyfive]

very nice and detailed...please keep it up. i will also be using this thread in the future. thanks!

[AC]

Originally Posted by 4RnrRick

My donor 2000 3rz had one.... ??? also my 22RE and 7M-GE did.

Maybe Cali Emissions?....and surrounding states adopted Cali's reg's. to make regional buying and selling of vehicles in and around California easier and legal.

I actually noticed that check valve in your thread a couple of weeks ago...figured you ran out of hose and spliced two together.

[AC]

Originally Posted by eightyfive

very nice and detailed...please keep it up. i will also be using this thread in the future. thanks!

Thanks, not done yet (exhaust and electrical), but will keep posting what I have. Just don't expect this to get done at "Quasi-speed".....startin' to get old, gotta take naps between mods.

[AC]

Need to back-up a moment and cover some misc. items that I missed.

Here's a better pic of clutch hardline bracket.



The 22re used green coolant and the 3rz used orange so I flushed the heater core. Used old section of garden hose--had to fill bucket 5 times till crud and rust stopped coming out. Then I swapped hoses and did it again till crud disappeared.



It was neccessary to relocte passenger side brake hardlines to put some distance between them and exhaust. Heres stock position.



Bent lines to allow bracket to bolt into existing threaded hole 2-1/2" to the left. Also had to remove old clutch line bracket(unpainted square on lower firewall)--exhaust manifold contacted it preventing engine to bellhousing engagment.



I do have one interference problem. 3rz heater hose contacts the sharp edged corner of the emergency brake housing on firewall. Didn't notice this untill after final engine install , so I can't grind it smooth. Instead, I opted to slip a section of radiator hose over the heater hose for protection.

[AC]

Passenger side pic--orderd heavy-duty 3-core radiator from Radiator Barn ( 85 4runner-option#3) for $114--arrived 2 days later. Same as stock rad. but 3-core (3/4" thicker). Good quality product, would recommend them to anyone.



Fan Blade to radiator clearance--about 2.25" Going to try and retain larger Taco fan blade. Think I can fab up a custom fan shroud using 22r/3rz shrouds and a bunch of rivets.



While we're on clearances, heres a shot of the exhaust manifold dump. Plenty of room to work with. Notice the absence of fuel line clutter.



One more thing I forgot. While swapping oilpans, I unbolted and removed the old Taco style dipstick tube guide. With oilpan off, I stuck a 3/8" solid barstock up under the tube guide union and tried to beat it out with a bfh( so I could install side freeze-plug into the front hole). After bending two sections of round bar, I gave up and filled the cavity of the union with Ultra-grey. We'll see how it holds up.

[AC]

I'm not a fan of open-element style airfilters, especially on a 4x4 that will see dust, mud and occasional water crossings. So that wasn't even an option for me.
The stock airfilter box was destroyed, so I pulled the 3rz airbox out of my daily driver to test fitment. Well, picture says it all.



Happened to have access to a 2002 Mitsubishi Montero Sport w/HOv6. Looked like it might fit, so I put it in.



Not a bad fit. Needs just a little fender clearancing with a hammer to clear hood. It would work but, overall I wasn't completly satisfied with the size or the 90* elbow which used up alot of fender space.

So it was off to the local junkyard, to find a 45* set-up. After 2 hours of searching with no luck, I accepted the fact that I would have to use the 90* Mitsu box. Passed 3 of them near the entrance, so I walked back up to a 2002 Mitsu Montero Sport (each vehicle has a 12"x12" sticker on hood w/year/make/model) and opened the hood.

Was shocked to see airbox mounted caddy-corner with a 45* intake tube. The other 2 Monteros were both 1999 models and one had a 45* set-up, the other 90*. Mitsubishi offered two engine options in the Monteros, a standard v6 and a High-Output v6. All 3 vehicles already had engines removed, so I can't confirm it, but its probably safe to say that the standard v6 came with the 45* set-up and the HOv6 came with the 90*.

EDIT: went to autoparts store--smaller filter for the 3.0 v6 fits the 45* set-up and the larger filter(3.5 v6) is for the 90* set-up.

Must be softening up the old man at the junkyard, cause he let me have it for $25.

Some minor heat gun work on some of the plastic parts will make it fit like it was meant to be there. Still need to fab adapter to mate to air sensor.

[AC]

Also picked up this brand new overflow resevoir at the junkyard.



Theres a story behind it...Last year I went to the yard to get Taco tailgate straps. Junkman said he had no Tacos. So while I was there, I asked about a resevoir tank for my 85 ( to replace the yellowed and cracked tank). Said he had no Toyota trucks of any kind, but had a couple of palletainers of overflow tanks. He walked me to a shed, way in the back of the yard and said I was welcome to search, but wouldn't find one.

Sure enough, I found one, wrapped in factory Toyota plastic. Took it back to the parts counter. Junkman said $50. No way in heck was I paying $50, so I took it back to the shed and buried it at the bottom of the container (just in case).

Anyway, while looking for an airfilter box, I inquired about an overflow tank. He said he didn't have any, but again walked me back to the shed.

I realized then that he didn't remember me from last year. So I walked back up empty handed. He said, "no luck huh". I said " actually, I found 3 of them still wrapped in factory plastic, but I'm to scared to even ask a price". He said, "3 of 'em huh"......"tell you what, you go back and pick out the best of the 3, and I'll let you have it for $15"

Washed the dust off and its mint.

OK, on the drivers side motor mount engine bracket is a bolt-on bracket that holds the alternater harness and the high pressure p.s.hose. Left the lower portion of bracket that holds harness wiring and cut off upper portion with the p.s.hose. Tacked a 3/4" long section of shock sleeve underneath bracket. Welded assembly to fender, right where hose wanted to sit naturally--didn't have to force it.


Full engine pic.


Planning on using about 90% of Taco harness in the 85. At this point, with the Taco relay box installed under hood, all engine bay plugs are Taco Harness compatible. The harness even plugs into the old head lights. Well, everything is plug and play except the windshield wiper motor, but thats only 6 wires to splice... had the Taco wiper motor and it shared the same bolt pattern and linkage set-up, so out went the 21 year old motor.



Here's all the harness for the entire vehicle. Used waterproof first-aid tape and a sharpie to label each wire and connector with a number, as I removed them. Kept a notepad with numbers and a description of what each wire connected to. There were exactly 101 connections on this set-up.

Need to weed out all of the airbag circuits and sensors as well as the door buzzers. All of the airbag connectors have yellow plugs and their wires are wrapped with yellow electrical tape, so they'll be easy to spot.

[85blue4runner]

Great thread man, makes me want to do a 3rz-T in my POS..

keep it comin...

[AC]

Thanks, will have more this weekend.

As said by others, this really is an easy swap. Up to this point, only felt like pulling my hair out once.
Was having trouble getting the upper starter to bellhousing bolt tightened down. Using a 14mm deep socket and rachet, only had enough handle room to tighten 1 click at a time(very long bolt). Broke down and bought a shallow 14mm socket, which allowed room for a swivel and extension to be used between bellhousing and floorpan. Was still a PITA but do-able. Heck, I was even able to put a torque wrench on it and tighten to specs.

Aside from that, the 3rz basiclly installed itself.

[4RnrRick]

great info....

[AC]

OK, I'm back. Haven't had much time to work on the rig, but I did get the exhaust knocked out. Exhaust systems are pretty basic, but I'll show pics for anyone who might be interested.

Cut-up, bent and drilled the stock Taco cat shield to fit the passenger firewall. Welded 3 bolt heads to the firewall, fastened shield on with nuts. Bent frame side of sheild 90*(2") to keep heat off of brake hardlines mounted on top of frame. Gray line running under sheild is only emergency brake cable(1.5" clearance).



Wanted Taco cat to sit under factory sheild so I started there. Was neccessary to cut off O2 sensor(downstream of cat) and relocate it 13" behind cat. On the Taco the O2 sensor sat 9" behind cat so shouldn't have any adverse effects. Fabbed up new hangers out of 5/16" rod to keep exhaust high.



Cut weld off flange to seperate from pipe so O2 sensor(upstream of cat) could be rotated out of harms way.





Downpipe to cat: 2-45*elbows, couplers, 1-90* elbow from Autozone

[4RnrRick]

Look'n good....

Just wanted to add that this step is very important!



Otherwise your floor might look like this. YUCK...