Axle Wrap and Anti-Wrap setups? Rear

[georgia gabe]

Its way past the time that I build a rear anti-wrap bar... you can see in the pic below that I often try to turn my rear axle into a toploader!



Description is in my sig... 64s in the rear, I know I need to get a better rear shackle angle.

I was thinking about building something similar to Kert @ DIYs "Wraptor", but got to thinking about it and I dont know if I need to get that complicated.

What I want to know from you FULLSIZE guys is who is running what and what kind of difference have you noticed in axle wrap and traction. Does it bounce less?

Also if you have a flex pic I would love to see it

Gabe

PS: I have searched and read and read again, I just want some current opinions from guys running big tires with heavy rigs... thanks

[spidr]

Check mine.
No wrap, and I've been doing burnouts, on the 49's, and when I do the truck jacks up. No hopping.

[Grumpy_old_fart]

mine doesnt limit flex. its a single sided bar built like a ladder bar but with a shackle on the forward end. angle and placement of the ladder bar will determine load placement on the tire. it turns it into a ladder bar, in that the end of the frame where the shackle attaches becomes the lifted part.the shackle simply allows it to articulate.

[dragoonranch]

If everything goes right, I will have some pictures for ya when I get back stateside the end of the week.

I am running 44 boggers and 310:1 gearing, so it sees plenty of torque load.

[M-1028]

We have a couple rigs running this set up in our group, its simple, shackle at the frame side. My truck weighs 6700 lbs and the only thing I broke was a bolt due to a rock hitting the bracket.

[georgia gabe]

Im assuming that you are using the frame side heim with misalignment spacers? If so does this allow for enough rotation of the axle durring hard flex?
gabe

[Grumpy_old_fart]

I use bushings on all three sides of my link, which is much like those built by M1028. There wont be any bind from the link, if you only use one. You dont need more than one per axle, so it does make packaging easier. When you put two per axle on the rig it might limit flex.

[mrdrinksalil]

fawk, just 4 link it.

[aaronr10]

This is the best pic of rear flex I have at work. If you search at CK5 under my username 79chevyk10 you'll find better. Had to measure front limit strap length due to blowing out 1350 cv's from overflex at got 43" from ground to bottom of rear tire and had more in it, but not the front driveline... anyway.

My traction bar is mounded on the pass side tube with Johnnie joints at all three points with a 7" shackle at crossmember. The bar is same length as rear driveline and doesn't limit flex at all. I have ran it for 4 years now and have conquered ledges that none of my friends can do. I get anit-squat (rear lifts up under accel) as a result. You really need to do one before you spin a tube or snap a yoke.

[georgia gabe]

Ill be building one before the K5 sees dirt again. I have broken a DS yoke, but if I spin a tube on the eaton I would be really Focked

Thats pretty much the design I have been thinking. Has anyone made one like the one below?



using a pivot bearing like this one from rocklogic4x4.com



I was thinking it would allow for unlimited movement as far as flexing goes while keeping the pinion angle consistant.

what are your thoughts, opinions, bacon recipies...

[aaronr10]

Bushings would be fine IMO if they were as close to center as possible. If you have to be off center, I perfer to have joints to eliminate having the bushings wearing out after 10 trips or so.
Your design will work tits...I think.

Attatched is a pic of the traction bar I made and a poser flex pic described above in my pervious post.

[koolk10]

would the shackle work on the top??

[Snowbird13]

Originally Posted by koolk10

would the shackle work on the top??

If you are asking if the shackle should be in tension, or compression, I usually see them set up in tension if you do a shackle flip, but I don't know why.

[georgia gabe]

Originally Posted by Snowbird13

If you are asking if the shackle should be in tension, or compression, I usually see them set up in tension if you do a shackle flip, but I don't know why.

The problem with putting the shackle in compression (at the top) is it will try to invert itself. Just like a spring shackle.
With the shackle in tension at an optimal angle it will not allow the pinion to rotate unless the shackle rips off the crossmember.

[rcurrier44]

Originally Posted by koolk10

would the shackle work on the top??

Gabe is right, however I have seen it work in compression.... if you have to do it just make the shackle long so it is less likely to invert on you.

[rcurrier44]

Here is mine. It's been working good for a couple of years.

[Burt4x4]

Originally Posted by georgia gabe

Ill be building one before the K5 sees dirt again. I have broken a DS yoke, but if I spin a tube on the eaton I would be really Focked

Thats pretty much the design I have been thinking. Has anyone made one like the one below?



using a pivot bearing like this one from rocklogic4x4.com



I was thinking it would allow for unlimited movement as far as flexing goes while keeping the pinion angle consistant.

what are your thoughts, opinions, bacon recipies...

Me Like! You mind if I copy you..I also am in need of installing an anti-wrap bar. My flex is not as extream as most but I like the spindle idea...although the more moving parts more points of failure...just thinking outloud...prolly would hold up fine.
Take pics of what you make!
Burt

[koolk10]

thanks for the info!!how much seperation do you use,would 1.5".120 dom with 3/4x3/4 rod ends be strong enough for 454 doubler 4.56 39.5 and a heavy foot

[georgia gabe]

I just ordered the bearing pivot from rocklogic, I will update this thread when I get ready to build it.
gabe

[rcurrier44]

Originally Posted by koolk10

thanks for the info!!how much seperation do you use,would 1.5".120 dom with 3/4x3/4 rod ends be strong enough for 454 doubler 4.56 39.5 and a heavy foot

I assume you are talking to me....


As I recall I think I used 8" of seperation. I would go with as much as you can without making it hang to low or get in the way of anything up high.

I used 1.75" x .120 DOM with a half of 1/4" thick good pipe welded on the bottom. I used 3/4x5/8 rod ends (40k lbs rated).

I think yours would be strong enough. I wanted mine to be able to contact rocks and not dent/bend so I over built it. I have had many 3-4 foot rear full throttle bounces while climbing and it has held up fine.

Here is a great thread about the subject. On the third page Gordon shows how to determine your IC and antisquat...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=351224&page=3

[rcurrier44]

Originally Posted by georgia gabe

So what do you think is the advantage of this style over using a rod end? My 30$ 3/4 x 5/8 rod ends are rated for 40k lbs.... it seams that would be overly complicated and expensive.

[Mechanos]

What's the general "been there, done that" consensus on the crossmember? I have a bunch of 1.5 x 1.5 x .120 square tube left over from various other projects. Is the .120 wall sq. tube up to the task? I can always go pick up some heavier wall tube if need be.

[georgia gabe]

Originally Posted by rcurrier44

So what do you think is the advantage of this style over using a rod end? My 30$ 3/4 x 5/8 rod ends are rated for 40k lbs.... it seams that would be overly complicated and expensive.

Dollar wise I think it turns out the same once you factor in misalignment spacers, and threaded insert for the tubing. Also I think that I will have less binding with this style vs rod end. I think longevity will be better as well. Here is what my flex looks like ( actually an old pic, Its even more now)

[koolk10]

started building a cross member after work today.figured out the frame is different from one side to the other.put a slight delay in my progress

[knaffie]

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