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37" MTR's NO LIFT! Will I build it?

164K views 261 replies 97 participants last post by  Valon5150 
#1 · (Edited)
I am tooling around with the idea of going up to 37/12.50/15 Goodyear MTR's on my 85 X-cab with NO LIFT. (Well More like planning:laughing:) I currently have 33/12.50's and got them working great with full flex using the stock leafs and only minor rubbing at full wheel lock. I have 2 E-lockers I am rigging with 5.29's and a doubler waiting to go in. My big question is how much cutting do you think it will take to make them work? I Searched and only found one NO LIFT IFS build with 38 swampers but in the end it looks like he lifted it and went SAS. I have the means,tools, and willingness to cut my beloved truck just want an idea of what it will look like and how much cutting/tubbing I am signing myself up for. If any of you know of a build I can look at for ideas please let me know. Also let me know of any problems I am not thinking about.

Plans for build to be done before Easter Moab.
Build rock rails (DONE)
Build Exo (Gonna wait till I get a better bender)
T-case doubler (DONE)
Build new X member (Bought one instead)
Cut rear end for E-locker (Front and Rear E-lockers DONE)
Cut and rebuild bed (Kinda Done for now)
Tub front end for tires/ cut firewall (Did enough cutting for now but will cut more later for 1 1/2" spacers)

Yea I'll probably buy a new star again and post some pics.

How it looked as of 2/09




Teaching the escelator a lesson!


POTATO SALAD!
YouTube - Paramedic up Potato Salad

How it looked after the 37's NO LIFT Build



How it looks as of 4/16/11 with about 2" of lift RUF/F-250's Rear and a partial exo:




 
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#4 · (Edited)
The hardest thing is going to be your steering. All you have to do to fit the tires is cut sheet metal. The solid axle frame will help you in this regard but you will probably have to lift it a little bit if you want much uptravel.

You plan on running highsteer right?
 
#7 ·
My welder is a Hobart Handler 175. I like the idea of moving the axle foward and may go that way. The money is a little tight so I will need to prioratize my spending. The gears and tires will wipe most of my budget but I will make what I can to save some coin. Do you guys think my stock birfs can hold if I crawl it and stay off the gas? I am not sure I can affored longs yet. However I do have my old Sammi truggy to sell? got to get working on that.
 
#8 ·
rears up front, lose a leaf = no lift. good bumps and limit straps, redrill your perches forward as much as possible (1") either go IFS steering box and hack the fuck out the the body mount with crossover or just go full hydro with a LR orbital and a nice double ended ram. then your have to tub your firewall for sure with leafs.

or

depending on what you call NO LIFT you could just link it. im at 25.5 on 42s. . .so that would be 23 on 37s.

what is your frame height with the 33s?
 
#9 ·
You can do it... picks of a friends 84 with OME 2.5" lift (after a few years of hard wheelin they are flat) with Q 78s

Sawzall baby!!!!!!!!!





 
#12 ·
um, in the last pic, is there more where that came from or are you just teasing us?

and to the op, just start cutting and do it. cut out the inner fender wells at the battery tray and airbox. relocation for both is necessary. steering box (ifs) should be about 3" forward. if you know toyotas you know the rest here.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Its funny to me those of you that think my thread is gay and say so (way to get your post count up!:shaking:). I have been on and off this board for years and although I have seen lot of builds I did not think where the best I never made a bad comment. We all have our own ideas of what works. Where I wheel low center of gravity is a big priority to me. This is also my dd so super flexy suspension is not ideal. I have had a crazy over built rig with lots of flex and don't want it any more. And truth is I like to keep some of the challenge in my wheeling otherwise the fun is lost! Don't worry I am not all butt hurt! Anyway any of you looking to buy a truggy?

Old picture of my other rig about to go for sale to fund this build. I lost a lot of my other pics of it and pulled this from the web. It is now 15" longer than in this old photo. That was the escelotor teaching me a lesson back then!:D
 
#19 · (Edited)
Thanks for that last link exacly what I have been looking for! based on those pics looks like I will definatly need to move the front foraward a couple inches! I was hoping to avoid that but O'well longer wheelbase = better climbing!
 
#20 · (Edited)
Do it!!! Im running a 3 inch lift with 38.5's the front is moved 3 inches foward to clear the firewall, I like the idea get a 10 degree rotated adapter for your doubler if you can and go with a front range mount and skid to save as much room underneath as possible, I would even hack the tunnel a little and make it completely flat underneath it only needs about 1.5-2 inches after you get the r10 adapter and front range skid plate... Run rears up front and dont add any more leafs it will only lift you about a 1/2 inch to an inch, if you loose a leaf it may not lift it at all but would make the front kinda scary soft so Id stick with letting it lift you an inch or 2... get some 3rd gen 2wd truck rear main leafs and build a pack for the back dont get the 4wd ones...there a little longer than the 2nd gens and flex good and the spring still wraps off the bottom of the eye use your double wrap 2nd spring from your pack still and bend the shackle end flat because the new main is longer... it will make for a good stable low truck and will wheel great and still flex well... also it will ride really nice. my steering box is so far forward it comes thru the radiator support, so getting your axle foward in the front is important.... Used2ba83 has a almost stock height 4runner stretched wheelbase on 36's and it works awesome screw the haters that think its gay
 
#22 ·
at no lift you will have very shitty approach and departure angles, your breakover angle will be even worse especially with the ex cab. your stock suspsension isnt going to have any flex so even though you have a sumwhat low COG its not going to feel that nice going through big rocks
 
#23 ·
with 37" tires in the front, no lift with a rear spring up front and flat springs at the bottom will make for a really good approach. with a bed bob the rear will not be so bad either. but leaving all that drive train down there in a lwb is probably not all that great of an idea without some good skids and a belly tuck.

it can be done. but easier i think on a 1st gen with the bigger wheel wells.
 
#27 ·
There is nothing gay about trying to make a low/stable wheeler!!!!:flipoff2:



Poster........You've certainly got your work cut out for You!:homer:

IMO 37's with no lift is impractical. The uptravel is just not there with no lift. My rig runs 40's with about 4"(maybe 4"?) of lift and clearance is absolutely maxed out with all the tubbing and trimming everywhere! My plan is to run 42's and I'm not gonna be able to fit them without more lift. Sometimes You got to weigh the options and figure if the work involved is worth not buying low lift springs that could possibly eliminate all the EXTRA work to fit that size tire. You don't have much time to do all that work and still make it to EJS.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Well I have been busy a little bit. I am starting to think that being done before Easter may not happen and I don't want to be 1/2 way done when it gets here! I am also listening to some of you and rethinking how I build it the goal will stay the same to keep it low as possible on 37's but I am thinking more and more about the rears up front option or even some links and coils?? Here is some progress so far!

Got new front bumper built (high and tight and simple)


Same simplicity for the rock rails


And added a reciver to the rear bumper I built last year. God I hate seeing rust!


I also built this for the 2" recivers front or rear mount. Ill keep it in the bed when not in use.


I sold my old buggy :( O'well it is off to a happy new owner that promises to fix my neglect. And now I got funds for the truck :D
 
#31 · (Edited)
I got a :smokin: deal on this 1986 x cab parts truck FREE!! with any luck after I scavange all my parts I can make a few more bucks from the rest. anyone need anything?


Funny thing is it broke soon after getting it.


new trailer! Swaped rearends already to put the wider IFS on my truck!


You like how I move around the front half?:shaking:


new push bumper!!
 
#32 ·
Fuck these clowns that say it's gay, you've got the right idea. Keep it low, and you won't need mad flex. There is a point where the cg becomes so high that all the flex in the world won't keep you from turning turtle in some situations. Cut the firewall back to the body mount, and use bumpstops. My 38" SX's rub both the firewall and the front inner (below the battery or airbox), so the only way I can go to a bigger tire with my 3" springs is to limit travel, or gut the fender well. IMO, 37's are a good size with stock fenderwells...or at least after a little clearencing.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Thanks for chiming in on my thread. I sent you some questions a little while back guess you did not get them. I wanted to know what you thought of the flex your getting. How you moved your front end forward? And are you having rubbing issues if so how bad. How did you set up your stearing? Push pull still or crossover? Did you extend your bump stops and are you using straps? Thanks for any input you can give! By the way I love that setup and am looking for that same stance.
 
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