These are done with the testing phase!!!! They are being manufactured as we speak! Orders will be going out within the next two weeks, first come first serve on the first batch... they are hot! There have been a lot of requests for these.
Thanks to our awesome testers out there!
Again we are offering the 30 spline with a slug set. We are not offering the 19 spline.
Now I just gotta sell a kidney to make room on the Master Card :evil:
Do you have to run a Ford style knuckle, or put the knuckles on after the shafts are in?
Is there a tire size limit on the lifetime breakage warranty? Or do you feel your 30 spline inners are stronger than the R&P?
Did you guys even consider a 33 spline inner to work with the 33 spline D44 lockers available for rear axle applications (or would that be a waste of time for the current 30 splines given strength balance)?
(Dude, i'm dancing a frickin' jig like Bruce Willis in "The Last Boy Scout"!!!!)
Do you have to run a Ford style knuckle or put GM knuckles on after the shafts are in?
Did you guys even consider a 33 spline inner to work with the 33 spline D44 lockers available for rear axle applications (or would that be a waste of time for the current 30 splines given strength to ring & pinion balance)?
I am very interested to know what is required to make these fit. Do the utilize the same size cv as the toy stuff or is it smaller? Any tire size/locker limitations for the warranty?
The tire size limitation is 40 and to get it to fit, you only have to grind down the lower ball joint stud to be flush with the top of the nut. The extra thread is the only thing in the way.
These are done with the testing phase!!!! They are being manufactured as we speak! Orders will be going out within the next two weeks, first come first serve on the first batch... they are hot! There have been a lot of requests for these.
Thanks to our awesome testers out there!
Again we are offering the 30 spline with a slug set. We are not offering the 19 spline.
How much milling, if any, needs to be done to the spindle so the stubs will fit, and will the bearing on the back of the hub that the stub rides on need to be changed to accomadate a different stub diameter?
I dont know about the bearing but I remember reading somewhere that to fit a 30 spl. outer in a ford spindle you had to clearence it a little more than .1" I want to say it was .1096" but I will look areound to see if I can find the info again..
can you guys get us the Outer Diameter of the stub shaft?
Sweet Was hopeing you guys would get these done soon been trying too decided too keep my chevy 44 front or bump up too the 60. Guess ill stick with my 44 for now sence im only running 39s!
Does anyone make lockouts for these yet or do i gota run drive slugs? my 44 has the bolt on lockouts not the snap ring kind its out of a chevy truck think like a 76 or 78 anything too look at before ordering? dont know alot about these axles so sorry for all the ?
Thanks
FWIW, the WARN Full Floater kit for the Dana 44 uses spindles that are bored to 1.350" ID for the 30 spline shafts (both ends).
They also have 30 spline lockouts for this application. I do not have the part number for this so I would recommend contacting them and they will get you the part number.
Well I guess we will make this thread worth something and add pictures:flipoff2:
I am the guy who has been testing these for RCV they have seen an obscene amount of abuse this year in the form of 3 races including the RCQ and a bunch of time on the gunite at Rausch Creek offroad park in Pa, and several tough weekends on the granite strew trails of New England.
They lived through 2 different motors a Cadillac Northstar and the current Supercharged 3800 series 2 both in the 300HP range.
The buggy weighs in at 3100lbs without water in the tires, 3400lbs with the 37" trepadores reds half full and 3500lb in race trim with tools and spare. Add for driver and passenger and your roughly 3900lb ready to race.
Sorry about the pictures all I had was my cheap camera. And I haven't even washed the rig since the last race.
Well I guess we will make this thread worth something and add pictures:flipoff2:
I am the guy who has been testing these for RCV they have seen an obscene amount of abuse this year in the form of 3 races including the RCQ and a bunch of time on the gunite at Rausch Creek offroad park in Pa, and several tough weekends on the granite strew trails of New England.
They lived through 2 different motors a Cadillac Northstar and the current Supercharged 3800 series 2 both inm the 300HP range.
The buggy weighs in at 3100lbs without water in the tires, 3400lbs with the 37" trepadores reds half full and 3500lb in race trim with tools and spare. Add for driver and passenger and your roughly 3900lb ready to race.
Sorry about the pictures all I had was my cheap camera. And I haven't even washed the rig since the last race.
Here are a few shots of the 30 spline stubs and drive flanges, again I am not a photographer sorry.
The 30 spline stubs went right through my bone stock 1/2 ton chevy spindles with no boring required.
With these shafts I have abused them to the point of being very concerned about losing the ring and pinion. I have run them both with and without water and they just keep taking it.
I have been running this rig for the last few years with Warn chromos and CTM's and have broken my share of shafts both inners and outers and would have never thought of running water.
Do the production stubs have a provision to keep water out of the spindle bearing? It looks like the spindle bearing surface is splined, will that cause the needle bearing to wear out quickly?
I was in a rush and did not install the seal and big washer thingy which would normally go in there to protect the splidle bearing. And the stub is not fully seated in that picture. I had just pulled it to check the splines and new that the pirate eyes would catch it if there wasn't a stub in there.
What I ended up doing was pulling the steering stops out so the knuckle would rotate a little further and disconnecting the steering.
For the drivers side, assuming the old axle is out already and the spindle is off.
1 I would rotate the knuckle all the way to the drivers side so you are working from the front.
2 Grind down the threads of the lower ball joint so they are flush with the top of the nut.
3 Insert the poly boot into the knuckle and lube the shaft hole, pass the inner axle through the boot.
4 Push the inner axle into the carrier as far as it will go.
5 Take the preassembled joint and insert the stub axle side into the splindle hole of the knuckle.
6 Once joint is into the knuckle slide the shaft back out of the carrier, place a set of needle nose vice grips on the inner shaft to keep it from pushing back in and start to engage the splines of the inner shaft. With a S-shaped hose removal tool start work the boot onto the joint. This part you need to be careful, it gets frustating because at this time there is grease on everything and its real tight and you do not want to tear or cut the boot but it does fit.
7 Once the boot is on push the joint onto the shaft until the circlip snaps in which will secure the shaft to the joint.
8 Insert the stub shaft into the joint and push in until the circlip snaps the stub into the joint, put your finger in the hole and feel for the inner shaft to be flush with the star.
9 Remove the vise grip, reassemble the the splindle, brakes, steering ect. Reinstall the steering stops.
Go have fun and stop worrying about you axles! It takes about 1 hour per side if you have air and all the tools handy. Make sure you have good snap ring pliers because the 30 spline stub is a pain to get the snap ring on.
Currently I am getting 37/38 degrees of steering before the joint starts to bind and on my u joint shafts I was at like 34 degrees. The good news is they are still looking to see if they can get more angle out of them without sacraficing strength, but its really hard to use more than 35 degrees on stock body vehicles so don't get hung up on numbers.
I got Sean the measurements of the hole in a ford knuckle the other day, I am sure he will chime in as to if the joint will pass through that hole. I never measured my joint OD once I relized to was not going to fit.
Geoff
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