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Old 01-15-2016, 02:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
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best going snow rig that you can still drive year round

After some discussion in the snowzuki build, yotaatietoo figured we should start a new thread.

What do you guys think would be the best going snow machine that one could build? I think it should have to be street legal, able to drive in the summer months, and be comfortable in blizzard conditions so no Arizona weather open buggies or rzr's or snow cats

EDIT: lets do both unlimited and limited budgets

unlimited: some sort of gutted small size pickup extra cab, cab (80's Toyota, s10, ranger, mazda, etc) w/ custom frame, big HP LS motor, auto trans, 4 speed transfer case, 10" thirds, spidertrax housings, portals and 54" Baja claws. aluminum link suspension w/ ORI's and everything inside the cab be built with lightweight in mind. it wouldn't be legal on the roads though

Limited: my choice would be a 200X 2WD 2-door tracker/vitara base model with the 2.0L engine and 4 speed auto. Swap out the 2.0L for a 2.3L out of a Suzuki aerio. Put a samurai transfer case behind the auto, a set of Toyota axles w/ ARB's, aluminum link suspension on ORI's and gut everything else that isn't needed (for weight savings.) A set of camoplast tracks and I think it would nearly unstoppable. throw a set of 35's on it in the dryer months.
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Old 01-15-2016, 05:21 AM   #2 (permalink)
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This rig my buddy built does pretty good



Unlimited budget?

4 door tacoma cab, custom frame for lots of up travel, big aluminum ls power, auto, deep 4 spd tcase gearing. Portal axles, maybe even ifs with portals. 54s or 42 radials depending on conditions.

Limited budget?

Something like the 2 door tracker or tin top samurai, but with the ability to run 39 iroks.
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Old 01-15-2016, 06:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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After some discussion in the snowzuki build, yotaatietoo figured we should start a new thread.

What do you guys think would be the best going snow machine that one could build? I think it should have to be street legal, able to drive in the summer months, and be comfortable in blizzard conditions so no Arizona weather open buggies or rzr's or snow cats

my choice would be a 200X 2WD 2-door tracker/vitara base model with the 2.0L engine and 4 speed auto. Swap out the 2.0L for a 2.3L out of a Suzuki aerio. Put a samurai transfer case behind the auto, a set of Toyota axles w/ ARB's, aluminum link suspension on ORI's and gut everything else that isn't needed (for weight savings.) A set of camoplast tracks and I think it would nearly unstoppable. throw a set of 35's on it in the dryer months.
That's kind of what I'm working on replacing my F250 DD with, only all Toyota. On a budget, it's just so hard not to pick a Toyota. I'm hoping a basic built Toyota 1st gen with 39.5 Iroks will chew snow like a boss, but still be very drivable during the summer on 35-37s.

With endless funds though, oh man..

I think a locked Toyota with duals and a decent power plant, hell even a turbo 4 banger, with 39.5s will go pretty much anywhere. It's funny this thread comes up, I've been planning out my "DD/WW" build this week. It'll be interesting to see what people come up.

Maybe throw a budget in there as well?
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Old 01-15-2016, 06:32 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Maybe throw a budget in there as well?
threw that in there too
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Old 01-15-2016, 06:34 AM   #5 (permalink)
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but with the ability to run 39 iroks.
you think tires go better than tracks? I tried getting an answer out of hideous4x4 but to no avail
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Old 01-15-2016, 04:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Anything that will clear 54s in the winter time and 37-40s in the summer. Around here alot of nice areas are closed in the winter to wheeled vehicles and groomed so a set of tracks is a must as well.
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Old 01-15-2016, 04:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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This rig my buddy built does pretty good



Unlimited budget?

4 door tacoma cab, custom frame for lots of up travel, big aluminum ls power, auto, deep 4 spd tcase gearing. Portal axles, maybe even ifs with portals. 54s or 42 radials depending on conditions.

Limited budget?

Something like the 2 door tracker or tin top samurai, but with the ability to run 39 iroks.
My dream setup would be similar, but I would do a rear mounted engine. Otherwise identical...

More realistic would be a gutted something with a removable top, high feature v6, auto, 4spd case, 9" based axles with ARB's and 42" radial tires
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Old 01-16-2016, 12:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
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you think tires go better than tracks? I tried getting an answer out of hideous4x4 but to no avail
No idea really. The owner of the rzr on tracks I posted the 15-16 season thread went up with the owner of the fifty4runner above. Rzr owner said that the 4runner could break trail on the road better than him, because of old ruts underneath the fresh snow would mess him up. On fresh snow, the rzr would pull away.

Now again, that a 6k+ lb 450 hp 4runner Vs a 900 lb 120hp rzr. Obviously the tracks intended for a vehicle will be bigger and have more surface area. I have a hard time seeing mattracks out doing 54s. They would probably stomp 40-44s on a light ish rig, however I did say realistic budget. How much is a set of mattracks?
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Old 01-16-2016, 06:24 AM   #9 (permalink)
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54 boggers are alot better then any 44 tire. My 54s and wheels cost about $6000. Mattracks depending on the model are $7-8000 https://www.mattracks.com/tracks/
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Old 01-16-2016, 06:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I found one price on that site, for a lighter duty set and they were over $10k. I thought I remembered the bigger ones with suspension and steering assist closing in on $20k.

If they were the $7-8k you posted, I could see them being a contender. In addition to the $6k for 54's and wheels, my jeep would need extensive and $$$ mods to fit them. Honestly, the $10k for a set that I could run, while still running 38's in the dry season are more practical and in-budget, than Uber large tires.

https://www.mattracks.com/tracks/litefoot/ez/hd/

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Old 01-16-2016, 07:05 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I found one price on that site, for a lighter duty set and they were over $10k. I thought I remembered the bigger ones with suspension and steering assist closing in on $20k.

If they were the $7-8k you posted, I could see them being a contender. In addition to the $6k for 54's and wheels, my jeep would need extensive and $$$ mods to fit them. Honestly, the $10k for a set that I could run, while still running 38's in the dry season are more practical and in-budget, than Uber large tires.

https://www.mattracks.com/tracks/litefoot/ez/hd/
Big difference in cost between the sxs tracks and vehicle tracks. I believe these are the ones Walton had on his rzr,and what some guys are putting on their suzuki.

http://www.sidebysidesports.com/tau4...kvNxoCi53w_wcB


OH ya, I gotta get ready to go to the snow, see you suckers later

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Old 01-16-2016, 08:12 AM   #12 (permalink)
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XL vs STANDARD

These run around $10k and will handle abuse. The buty of them is all the wear items are common snowmobile parts (boggies & track), not one off expensive parts. They are also hand made in Michigan.

The main downfalls to tracks is that you have to trailer to the trail and if something comes apart you're screwed.... not like blowing a bead with tires. Also not sure how well they handle sidehills or climbing over downed trees.
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Old 09-04-2016, 07:58 AM   #13 (permalink)
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For a snow wheeler that is summer street legal I don't think you can go wrong with tracks. Mine go on and off in about 20 minutes. I might have to trailer it in the winter but there's no vehicle on the mountain that I haven't been able to pass with the exception of snow mobiles.

Check out this thread. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...-build-up.html

Here's mine out for a run. https://youtu.be/fHZTWdPJLdM

I built mine but if you're not into that I would definitely recommend the American Tuck Tracks.
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I think I would build a suburban if I had an unlimited budget.....triple turbo common rail nv5600. atlas built tons on the new 45" swampers try to cut weight where I could....fiberglass front clip aluminum links basic tube bumpers gut the carpet for that spray in insulation stuff, still have to keep all the hunnies warm
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Old 09-28-2016, 04:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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This rig my buddy built does pretty good



Unlimited budget?

4 door tacoma cab, custom frame for lots of up travel, big aluminum ls power, auto, deep 4 spd tcase gearing. Portal axles, maybe even ifs with portals. 54s or 42 radials depending on conditions.

Limited budget?

Something like the 2 door tracker or tin top samurai, but with the ability to run 39 iroks.
If your talking street legal then this ride wouldn't cut it w/o better tire coverage, bumper(s) etc. Nor could you drive it to the trails because you wouln't be able to see where you're going either with all the snow/spray coming off the tires at 8omph on the Hwy.

You need to think more practical if you want a daily driver Super snow wheeler.

Say a 3,000lb Willy's Flatty 100"WB., Turbo Charged (keeps it's power at altitude where the snow usually is) aluminium 4cyl. 400HP/400Ft./Lbs., 6speed manual 3 to1 Atlas (don't need deep gearing when in the snow going 60+MPH), IFS (alloy light weight) axles + susp., inner disc brakes, approx. 5 to 1 R&P's/Detroits or? diff.'s, Arctic Truck AT405 38" radial tires or some 41.5" PBRR's mounted onto a set of Hutchinson Dual Bead-Lock alloy wheels.

1/4" or thinner 6061 Alloy bumpers/rocker-guards, skid-plates... Chromoly frame + rollcage/seat mounts, susp. seats... Soft top with good tire coverage/removeable mud flaps..

Or a Jeep LJ with a Hemi and all the same stuff weighing 3,500lbs. on the PBRR's...

Just a quick write-up, gotta go.

The Sidekick on 40"s is a good idea for a budget, I used the 4 door and add a turbo...

Cheers d

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Old 09-28-2016, 10:44 PM   #16 (permalink)
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If your talking street legal then this ride wouldn't cut it w/o better tire coverage, bumper(s) etc. Nor could you drive it to the trails because you wouln't be able to see where you're going either with all the snow/spray coming off the tires at 8omph on the Hwy.

You need to think more practical if you want a daily driver Super snow wheeler.


Cheers d
Depends on where you live, this rig gets driven around town occasionally and is almost never towed up to the snow. Your conditions are night and day different from ours.

When there is 6' of fresh powder (like the kind you can make a snow ball out of) you aren't going to be doing 60 mph with 38s. Or anywhere for that matter. Often times deep gearing is needed. I use my 230:1 all the time.

No one said daily driver btw.
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Old 09-29-2016, 01:23 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Depends on where you live, this rig gets driven around town occasionally and is almost never towed up to the snow. Your conditions are night and day different from ours.

When there is 6' of fresh powder (like the kind you can make a snow ball out of) you aren't going to be doing 60 mph with 38s. Or anywhere for that matter. Often times deep gearing is needed. I use my 230:1 all the time.

No one said daily driver btw.

Your right no one said daily driver and I should clarify that better by saying a vehicle that could be driven on the road w/o issue, but not necessarily daily. At least that's what I/most here are going for.

Not many (here locally) use trailers to get there rig's around for many reasons, but I suppose because the trails we run come out in different locations then where you start and many good snow runs are just un-maintained Forest Service Roads buried under many feet of snow (FSR's require a legally insured vehicle).
As for going fast in the snow up here (Okanagan, B.C., Canada) that's what it's all about for many who build their rides only for the snow.
Of course there's all the regular daily driver Jeeps/4x4's (majority under 40" tires) that enjoy wheeling the white stuff as much as the speed junkies who basically drag race across the meadows where the snow gets to be 10'+ deep.

My point was simply, that particular set-up/vehicle isn't very practical to drive to and from the trails no matter where you live in North America for reasons such as the police, but also that's it's just not very enjoyable driving on a highway at +50mph speeds w/o tire coverage in wet/winter conditions due to the issues of road spray taking away your visibility while pissing off every other motorist around you, that's all.

I'm sure it would perform well and with some tire siping/grooving and bead-lock wheels even better.

As for 38" tires not performing, sure they wouldn't run over the snow as well as a taller tire, but putting 31" x15.50" Tera tires on a side by side would work great too, it's all about the flotation factor and if that side by side had enough torque it would do 60MPH easy (but your correct the snow conditions would have to be right).

I've ran 4cyl. TJ's on small Boggers, MTR's, BFG KM's etc. at 40mph in snow (at the redline in low-range) and it would go faster if it had more torque and/or gearing...

The gearing such as 230 to 1 for snow wheeling, wow that's low/slow; boulder fields sure, snow never heard of it.

I've never had issues getting the tires turning and moving forward with 50 to 1 in the snow only running 120lb. (often under 100lbs.) wheel/tire combo's though, but I try and build the 4x4 as light as possible.
Of course most who run a 44" or larger (locally) are also running a big block with 500+FT. Lbs. (or a lot more torque) and most everyone with a big block (and 44"+ tires) is also using a manual transmission. The most capable purpose built 4x4's for the snow that are street legal (here) weigh around 4,500Lbs. running a big block V8 and usually 46" M/T Claws with about a 60 to 1 crawl ratio.

I can't think of anyone running really low gearing (as in lower then 80 to 1 as most are closer to 60 to 1), but it's all about getting up on top and running fast when possible (20mph to 50+mph) for the serious snow wheelers here. Other wise it's a slow and steady application of throttle to keep forward momentum up when the snow conditions or terrain dictate's it no matter the vehicle set-up.

Yet even when running slow why such low gearing? 1mph isn't slow enough you gotta go less then a 1/4mph?

Up here we get incredibly light fluffy blow away powder snow a lot of the time, of course we also get that sugary sh*t at times too. Even the wet cement snow (probably something like the easy to make a snow ball snow you mention) our west coast has at times can be driven on, but flotation is the name of the game, especially for the lead vehicle breaking a fresh trail.

I recognize having the low gearing option is an advantage, I just don't see how you would use it in snow? Are you running an extremely heavy truck (6,000+lbs.) and/or a wheel/tire combo like 200Lbs.+ (huge 46"+ Michelin's come to mind on a Unimog maybe)?

Seriously not saying your wrong as everyone builds their 4x4 for the terrain they like or most often drive and here it's different of course. I've just never heard or seen that gearing used in snow since it's usually fairly easy to get out of 1st gear with a 50 to 1 crawl ratio, plus if you're already in someone's tracks then going fast is real easy with the right snow conditions of course.

Cheers D

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Old 09-30-2016, 09:18 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Your right no one said daily driver and I should clarify that better by saying a vehicle that could be driven on the road w/o issue, but not necessarily daily. At least that's what I/most here are going for.

Not many (here locally) use trailers to get there rig's around for many reasons, but I suppose because the trails we run come out in different locations then where you start and many good snow runs are just un-maintained Forest Service Roads buried under many feet of snow (FSR's require a legally insured vehicle).
As for going fast in the snow up here (Okanagan, B.C., Canada) that's what it's all about for many who build their rides only for the snow.
Of course there's all the regular daily driver Jeeps/4x4's (majority under 40" tires) that enjoy wheeling the white stuff as much as the speed junkies who basically drag race across the meadows where the snow gets to be 10'+ deep.

My point was simply, that particular set-up/vehicle isn't very practical to drive to and from the trails no matter where you live in North America for reasons such as the police, but also that's it's just not very enjoyable driving on a highway at +50mph speeds w/o tire coverage in wet/winter conditions due to the issues of road spray taking away your visibility while pissing off every other motorist around you, that's all.

I'm sure it would perform well and with some tire siping/grooving and bead-lock wheels even better.

As for 38" tires not performing, sure they wouldn't run over the snow as well as a taller tire, but putting 31" x15.50" Tera tires on a side by side would work great too, it's all about the flotation factor and if that side by side had enough torque it would do 60MPH easy (but your correct the snow conditions would have to be right).

I've ran 4cyl. TJ's on small Boggers, MTR's, BFG KM's etc. at 40mph in snow (at the redline in low-range) and it would go faster if it had more torque and/or gearing...

The gearing such as 230 to 1 for snow wheeling, wow that's low/slow; boulder fields sure, snow never heard of it.

I've never had issues getting the tires turning and moving forward with 50 to 1 in the snow only running 120lb. (often under 100lbs.) wheel/tire combo's though, but I try and build the 4x4 as light as possible.
Of course most who run a 44" or larger (locally) are also running a big block with 500+FT. Lbs. (or a lot more torque) and most everyone with a big block (and 44"+ tires) is also using a manual transmission. The most capable purpose built 4x4's for the snow that are street legal (here) weigh around 4,500Lbs. running a big block V8 and usually 46" M/T Claws with about a 60 to 1 crawl ratio.

I can't think of anyone running really low gearing (as in lower then 80 to 1 as most are closer to 60 to 1), but it's all about getting up on top and running fast when possible (20mph to 50+mph) for the serious snow wheelers here. Other wise it's a slow and steady application of throttle to keep forward momentum up when the snow conditions or terrain dictate's it no matter the vehicle set-up.

Yet even when running slow why such low gearing? 1mph isn't slow enough you gotta go less then a 1/4mph?

Up here we get incredibly light fluffy blow away powder snow a lot of the time, of course we also get that sugary sh*t at times too. Even the wet cement snow (probably something like the easy to make a snow ball snow you mention) our west coast has at times can be driven on, but flotation is the name of the game, especially for the lead vehicle breaking a fresh trail.

I recognize having the low gearing option is an advantage, I just don't see how you would use it in snow? Are you running an extremely heavy truck (6,000+lbs.) and/or a wheel/tire combo like 200Lbs.+ (huge 46"+ Michelin's come to mind on a Unimog maybe)?

Seriously not saying your wrong as everyone builds their 4x4 for the terrain they like or most often drive and here it's different of course. I've just never heard or seen that gearing used in snow since it's usually fairly easy to get out of 1st gear with a 50 to 1 crawl ratio, plus if you're already in someone's tracks then going fast is real easy with the right snow conditions of course.

Cheers D
My snow and your snow are just 2 different worlds. Around here, There are times when you just need to crawl, and any wheel speed will have you sunk. No matter what hp or how much momentum.

There used to be an older guy around here who is a die hard drag racer, he was actually on the show street outlaws. He built a gutted blazer with a blown small block making upwards of 600 hp on 49 iroks. A lot of times he would make everyone look silly.

One specific time he was trying to make it up a hill out of big hole, no matter how much he banged it, he couldn't get it. Another guy with a Toyota on the same tires, powered by a 22re (yes huge tires and tiny motors are pretty common around here) with 240:1+ gearing pulls up and crawls up it.

Its not always the most exciting way, but some times you just need to crawl.
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Old 10-01-2016, 05:08 AM   #19 (permalink)
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My snow and your snow are just 2 different worlds. Around here, There are times when you just need to crawl, and any wheel speed will have you sunk. No matter what hp or how much momentum.

There used to be an older guy around here who is a die hard drag racer, he was actually on the show street outlaws. He built a gutted blazer with a blown small block making upwards of 600 hp on 49 iroks. A lot of times he would make everyone look silly.

One specific time he was trying to make it up a hill out of big hole, no matter how much he banged it, he couldn't get it. Another guy with a Toyota on the same tires, powered by a 22re (yes huge tires and tiny motors are pretty common around here) with 240:1+ gearing pulls up and crawls up it.

Its not always the most exciting way, but some times you just need to crawl.
I hear you regarding the need for gearing with huge/heavy tires and low torque output motors, then really low gearing is the only way to go.
It's just no one really builds their 4x4's like that around here. Probably because most drive them to and from the trails, that are sometimes many miles away and the lack of power wouldn't cut it on our highways (which are rarely level and oftentimes in mountains); plus there's the speed/fun factor most enjoy.


I suppose in a way I was thinking of building my LJ somewhat in that style. Because it wouldn't have the power (just the stock 4.0L) to run fast with the big V8's, however I hoped/expected it would go everywhere they could on snow and (hopefully) some places where they wouldn't/couldn't.

Previously was working out that my 3,500lb. Jeep with a 39"ish tire (most likely a bias Irok as they seem to be the best in snow around these parts) should/would be enough to go anywhere the 5,500lb.+/- rigs go on there 44"+ tires (minus the high speeds of course).
I may get a chance to try out this theory with some old 38.5" SX's this winter, if the planets align...


The other project I've thought about is trying to get a vehicle to weigh under 2,500lbs. on a set of 36" bias Irok tires with very low gearing. Like a Suzuki Sidekick with the lowest T-case gears & axle gears you can get which would offer up a crawl ratio of more then 100 to 1.

Not nearly as deep as yours, but hopefully enough to get it around the streets and trails here...

Anyways always good discussing wheeling with like minded people...

Really am looking forward to the day I can get down to the trails in the USA again. Funny thing is now twenty plus years later I'm wanting to go down in winter for the snow wheeling possible even more then in the summer like it used to be.

Of course there was one time a bunch of us Old Bronco boys got caught out in blizzard like, almost white out conditions on a part of the Rubicon Trail back in Nov. 1991, but that's a tail for another time.

Cheers D

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Old 10-01-2016, 09:09 AM   #20 (permalink)
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What I am trying to say is, around here, there are times when you just need the deep gearing. Certain conditions don't care if you have 600 hp or 60, but you need the gearing. In fact some people have even ran ultra deep gearing (think 500-800:1) they claim that they could always back out of thier holes, no matter how stuck they were if they put it in super low.
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Old 10-02-2016, 11:18 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I used to wheel with a guy who had an EB, and it had 5.89's with 38" Gumbo Monster Mudders on it. 4-speed too. He would jump out and let it dig, and about 15 minutes later it would crawl out. Bronco bounce seemed to work well. Cool to watch.
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Old 10-10-2016, 12:06 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I think I would build a suburban if I had an unlimited budget.....triple turbo common rail nv5600. atlas built tons on the new 45" swampers try to cut weight where I could....fiberglass front clip aluminum links basic tube bumpers gut the carpet for that spray in insulation stuff, still have to keep all the hunnies warm
you're going to need bigger than 45s to keep that burban floating, probably 49s or 54s

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Your right no one said daily driver and I should clarify that better by saying a vehicle that could be driven on the road w/o issue, but not necessarily daily. At least that's what I/most here are going for.

Not many (here locally) use trailers to get there rig's around for many reasons, but I suppose because the trails we run come out in different locations then where you start and many good snow runs are just un-maintained Forest Service Roads buried under many feet of snow (FSR's require a legally insured vehicle).
As for going fast in the snow up here (Okanagan, B.C., Canada) that's what it's all about for many who build their rides only for the snow.
Of course there's all the regular daily driver Jeeps/4x4's (majority under 40" tires) that enjoy wheeling the white stuff as much as the speed junkies who basically drag race across the meadows where the snow gets to be 10'+ deep.

My point was simply, that particular set-up/vehicle isn't very practical to drive to and from the trails no matter where you live in North America for reasons such as the police, but also that's it's just not very enjoyable driving on a highway at +50mph speeds w/o tire coverage in wet/winter conditions due to the issues of road spray taking away your visibility while pissing off every other motorist around you, that's all.

I'm sure it would perform well and with some tire siping/grooving and bead-lock wheels even better.

As for 38" tires not performing, sure they wouldn't run over the snow as well as a taller tire, but putting 31" x15.50" Tera tires on a side by side would work great too, it's all about the flotation factor and if that side by side had enough torque it would do 60MPH easy (but your correct the snow conditions would have to be right).

I've ran 4cyl. TJ's on small Boggers, MTR's, BFG KM's etc. at 40mph in snow (at the redline in low-range) and it would go faster if it had more torque and/or gearing...

The gearing such as 230 to 1 for snow wheeling, wow that's low/slow; boulder fields sure, snow never heard of it.

I've never had issues getting the tires turning and moving forward with 50 to 1 in the snow only running 120lb. (often under 100lbs.) wheel/tire combo's though, but I try and build the 4x4 as light as possible.
Of course most who run a 44" or larger (locally) are also running a big block with 500+FT. Lbs. (or a lot more torque) and most everyone with a big block (and 44"+ tires) is also using a manual transmission. The most capable purpose built 4x4's for the snow that are street legal (here) weigh around 4,500Lbs. running a big block V8 and usually 46" M/T Claws with about a 60 to 1 crawl ratio.

I can't think of anyone running really low gearing (as in lower then 80 to 1 as most are closer to 60 to 1), but it's all about getting up on top and running fast when possible (20mph to 50+mph) for the serious snow wheelers here. Other wise it's a slow and steady application of throttle to keep forward momentum up when the snow conditions or terrain dictate's it no matter the vehicle set-up.

Yet even when running slow why such low gearing? 1mph isn't slow enough you gotta go less then a 1/4mph?

Up here we get incredibly light fluffy blow away powder snow a lot of the time, of course we also get that sugary sh*t at times too. Even the wet cement snow (probably something like the easy to make a snow ball snow you mention) our west coast has at times can be driven on, but flotation is the name of the game, especially for the lead vehicle breaking a fresh trail.

I recognize having the low gearing option is an advantage, I just don't see how you would use it in snow? Are you running an extremely heavy truck (6,000+lbs.) and/or a wheel/tire combo like 200Lbs.+ (huge 46"+ Michelin's come to mind on a Unimog maybe)?

Seriously not saying your wrong as everyone builds their 4x4 for the terrain they like or most often drive and here it's different of course. I've just never heard or seen that gearing used in snow since it's usually fairly easy to get out of 1st gear with a 50 to 1 crawl ratio, plus if you're already in someone's tracks then going fast is real easy with the right snow conditions of course.

Cheers D
there is certain sugar snow that not even huge tires and horsepower can overcome.
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Old 10-10-2016, 12:13 PM   #23 (permalink)
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there is certain sugar snow that not even huge tires and horsepower can overcome.
That's our February snow or snow that never gets to see sun.


Heck I've seen the snow go from "snowball" snow on the way in then the temp drops and its -25 and sugar on the way out.

Hope ya brought enough fuel.
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Old 10-12-2016, 12:24 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Heck I've seen the snow go from "snowball" snow on the way in then the temp drops and its -25 and sugar on the way out.

Hope ya brought enough fuel.


Spring snow in Nor Cal is similar: Early morning hours the snow is rock hard, afternoon hours turns to slippery snot and you may need to wait for sundown to harden back up.
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:28 PM   #25 (permalink)
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you're going to need bigger than 45s to keep that burban floating, probably 49s or 54s
maybe 46"/19.5 cut claws
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