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#51 (permalink) | |||
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Whatever Works
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 128472
Location: North Country
Posts: 2,571
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Yea, I'm loving this thing. I enjoy removing the transmission, carrying around an axle housing, and holding the t/c in one hand all by myself. My friend had to piece together his drivetrain with a backhoe.
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![]() I'm a hurting unit today. I have a decent cut on my right hand. My finger tips are extremely sore. I don't know what that's about. Just going to take it easy today. Kick back at the house with the dog.
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Samurai Build on a Low Buck Budget: The Tin Can Quote:
Last edited by JM93LiftedYJ; 02-12-2012 at 08:04 AM. |
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#52 (permalink) | |
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snow!
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 142927
Location: hood river or
Posts: 154
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#53 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
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I wouldn't plate the bottom, or the side for that matter.
I'd make diamond shapes just for where the tubes join the frame. Course, I'd probably run the tubes straight rather than with a bend - but that's me and it's not my rig.
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Size does matter. Leave the Zukes to those who really understand. |
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#54 (permalink) | |
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Whatever Works
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 128472
Location: North Country
Posts: 2,571
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Eh, I already have the plates cut.
I'm not certain on the bends either. I thought about it today and still don't know. I just wanted to keep my sliders nice and high for clearance. Its only tacked in. I think I need someone to go to the garage with me and brainstorm a bit.
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Samurai Build on a Low Buck Budget: The Tin Can Quote:
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#55 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Important enough. welding big plates on like that is pretty unnessicary at this weight unless youre savagely beating on it.
Cut some 3x3 squares out of that 3/16 and weld them on so that they look like diamonds on the framerails. FWIW, my cage is based off my rocker bars, and they are bolted to the front body mounts, and the rear main spring hangar boxes. Never been an issue. Four 3/8ths grade 8 bolts per side. The thread that Hvy_Chevy referenced is a good one. Being the lazy bastard that I am, I just clean the roughness from the dies with a flap wheel and radius the edges of the die so it doesnt shave the pipe. Ive made shoes instead of using the rollers because they dent the pipe. Bigger pipe like 1 1/4 (1.66 od) and 1 1/2 (1.9 OD) fit the dies much better than the 7/8s pipe that was discussed in that thread. Im assuming that was 3/4 pipe.
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nothing but a bunch of pipe and cast off parts. |
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#56 (permalink) | |
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Whatever Works
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 128472
Location: North Country
Posts: 2,571
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Wow, so I went a little overboard on the plats then huh? Oh well, I rather have too much than too little. Like I said, this was my first attempt at rockers. I tend to over complicate, well, everything that I do. Perhaps I should just skip the bends, use straight pipe. Or even, cut the outside edge at 45º notch it, and run my slider from there.
I've got a week or so to think about it. No idea what to do. hrm
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Samurai Build on a Low Buck Budget: The Tin Can Quote:
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#58 (permalink) | |
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Whatever Works
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 128472
Location: North Country
Posts: 2,571
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Two things I suck and fail at doing. haha. I'll do a few searches tonight.
What should I search for? What's the technical term? Sliders?
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Samurai Build on a Low Buck Budget: The Tin Can Quote:
Last edited by JM93LiftedYJ; 02-12-2012 at 04:55 PM. |
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#60 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Straight bars from your frame to the sliders would probably be just fine. Hvy-chevy did some nice square tube sliders that worked nice. chopsaw notching. use a similar method with a grinder and a cutoff wheel. If you find a crappy table saw you could use that too if you are brave. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...opsaw+notching i could swear that there was a better one that had more pictures, but i cant find it for the life of me. the General Metal Fabrication thread is very helpful. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...p+saw+notching
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nothing but a bunch of pipe and cast off parts. Last edited by JesseA; 02-12-2012 at 06:09 PM. |
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#61 (permalink) | |
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Whatever Works
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 128472
Location: North Country
Posts: 2,571
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I may just do the straight tubes. I've seen a few pictures and I think that will be easier. I do want to have some sort of angle to them. I want to bring the bottom of the slider as close to the bottom of the door as I can. Just want to keep stuff as high off the ground as I can.
As for notching, I put a hole saw in my drill press. I don't have the perfect size hole saw, but what I have works fine. The notches came out pretty good. I was happy with them.
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Samurai Build on a Low Buck Budget: The Tin Can Quote:
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#62 (permalink) | |
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Whatever Works
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 128472
Location: North Country
Posts: 2,571
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Spent a couple hours in the garage tonight. I left the slider the way I had it. The other side I'm going to use fish plates to the frame for each "arm" that attaches the slider to the frame. What I had here was a pain in the ass to weld as one large piece.
The frame sucked to weld to as well. Glad I didn't go with 1/4". Finding the medium to melt the 3/16" to the what seems 1/16" frame sucked so bad. It was either burn a hole through the frame or not penetrate the 3/16". I ended up welding about 1/2" at a time. Let it cool for a second, then another 1/2". Learned a few things too. One is, don't weld right about your ankles with fairly loose boots. ouch. And when laying on your side cover your ear when welding upside down. Another ouch. Tomorrow I'll try to get a few pics. Need to start on the other side. My friend also suggested that I replace my fuel lines too while I have this thing pulled apart. Going to be a tad nervous welding that side with the fuel lines there. Got all the pipe I need too to finish off the cage too. So yea, making progress here and there. Won't be long until I can drive it around. Can't wait to wheel this year will all the stuff I've done to the Zuk!
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#63 (permalink) | |
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ZUK Herder
Join Date: Mar 2004
Member # 28426
Location: Live free or die
Posts: 2,448
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Before the kicker3 and when i had a stock sami trans i had clutch swap down to 2 hours..
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"It's my belief that someone with a Samurai ran over a Gypsy's dog or something years ago, and he laid a curse on the whole lot." -UZI 9mm thanks to: www.longfieldsuperaxles.com www.kore4x4customs.com www.ruffstuffspecialties.com www.zukeviltwin.com www.polyperformance.com www.DEEPWOODSEXTREME.com www.trailtough.com |
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#64 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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![]() Try that when you are welding on thin stuff. It works for me when Im stick welding on mine.
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nothing but a bunch of pipe and cast off parts. |
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#65 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Feb 2009
Member # 129292
Location: Eureka ks
Posts: 104
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Thought might get a kick out of these
This was my sons first "school vehicle" I went overboard and it ended up getting sold but here are some exo pics. I put tabs on the front and rear bumpers and sliders so when we weren't crawling we would take the exo off to make it a little better on the street.
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#66 (permalink) | |
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Whatever Works
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 128472
Location: North Country
Posts: 2,571
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Looks good. For right now, I think I'm just going to stick with the cab area. Start at the rear of the slider, over the roof, to the other slider. Then over the door frame and sandwich 3/16's to the top and bottom of the cowl to end the cage there. Then along the top and bottom of the winshield and one down the middle. I'll try to draw up a quick pic.
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Samurai Build on a Low Buck Budget: The Tin Can Quote:
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#67 (permalink) | |
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Whatever Works
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 128472
Location: North Country
Posts: 2,571
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![]() Something like that. I was going to do a bar down the middle of the windshield, but MSPaint made it look dumb. Still not sure if I will do the section that connects the piece from the bottom of the windshield to the front of the slider. If I do, I'll havet o reroute my intake. Probably do something through the firewall or something.
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Samurai Build on a Low Buck Budget: The Tin Can Quote:
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#68 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Feb 2009
Member # 129292
Location: Eureka ks
Posts: 104
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Anything is better than nothing, we tested that cage several times and it was still straight when we sold it. It actually had too much flex so I ended up tacking the missing links together. If I remember right you could lift any tire 34" without the others coming up.
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#70 (permalink) | |
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Whatever Works
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 128472
Location: North Country
Posts: 2,571
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Across the cowl for sure. But from top to bottom of the center of the windshield I'm not sure is necessary.
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Samurai Build on a Low Buck Budget: The Tin Can Quote:
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#71 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Feb 2009
Member # 129292
Location: Eureka ks
Posts: 104
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I have never put one vertical in the center of the windshield but alot of the builder/fabricators do. I'm sure it makes it stronger but that bar would drive me insane. I would probably add it in a comp rig but not on "my" trail rig.
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#73 (permalink) | |
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Whatever Works
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 128472
Location: North Country
Posts: 2,571
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haha, no shit. we're going to have to do some wheeling together.
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#75 (permalink) | ||
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Whatever Works
Join Date: Jan 2009
Member # 128472
Location: North Country
Posts: 2,571
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Quote:
that's why I had no low gear and no clutch left. hoping this year I'm a little better prepared.
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