My Zu-Yota-Kick Build

[WOODZUK]

Originally Posted by bam671

looks great good job on removing the rear frame looks better

thanks

[samota87]

The pan hard mounts need to be strong....that is the only link keeping it from going side to side. The axle mount will either rip at the lower bolt hole or where it changes its shape down lower. Here is what i did...always keep in mind the side to side motion and force it will take trying to keep it there..

[samota87]

Originally Posted by WOODZUK

thx guys. i wondered about it but a friend who has built a few said it would work. i think i will box it in. first time building one of these so i appreciate any and all input. i could cut a square piece with a half moon to put under the track-bar and that would strengthen the bolt holes from the driver side. u think boxing it from the passenger side would be enough or should i try to extend it some more towards the passenger side to make a larger footprint

The frame side doesnt have enough meat around the bolt hole.....If you dont want to redo it i would cut out a slightly smaller version of the one already on the frame but extend it out another 3/4 inch past the end of the one you will be welding it to. Fully weld it anywhere it contacts the exsisting mount. That will strengthen it....not ideal but it will work.

[samota87]

This is what you should do to strengthen them.

[WOODZUK]

thanks for the help guys, i'm gonna put it back together for the last time and make sure there is room (i'm sure there is) and add some gussets like you described.

[WOODZUK]

bent a tube to go between the shocks so they don't move around. wanted to go between the 2 flanges where the shocks mounted to add a little more strength there but didn't want it there in case a motor mount broke. would rather it hit the soft sheet metal hood. only have to make a couple relief cuts in the hood for the flanges but nothing that's gonna compromise the hood strength.


also cut some hole in the hood so it would sit flat like its supposed to,didn't take any pics

[dcastell]

Looking good. I am watching the full hydro plumbing you got planned. I hope you get closer to fully being plumbed than me. I am am having brain farts trying to get mine to fit and run proper. Love the engine cage work.

[WOODZUK]

Originally Posted by dcastell

Looking good. I am watching the full hydro plumbing you got planned. I hope you get closer to fully being plumbed than me. I am am having brain farts trying to get mine to fit and run proper. Love the engine cage work.

thanks for the compliments,think I'm gonna run 1 more tube diagonally from the front section where the hood sets to the rear where the back is welded to the frame,that way i will have a nice brace to put a panel on for those muddier times of the year and it should stiffen it up more. i took that PSC bracket an cut the pump mount off and lowered it down to just above the 10mm bolt holes and that gives me about 11 inches of drop from the res so hopefully it wont starve.also when u get the belt for it they make 2 different lengths 34" and 36" i think,i went with the longer to get it to go down further for more drop. also by lowering it i have the option of stacking the res right above the pump but it would take more bracket work then i want to do at the moment. haven't wheeled this thing in 3 years and i'm sick of wheeling the wife's jeep

[WOODZUK]

got my air bump cans halfway built this weekend used some 2 inch schedule 40 water pipe. gotta make a trip to town to get nuts and bolts to put on them
driver side



passenger





so here is what i did tonight with the suggestions on my track bar mounts. when u tig weld all day long for a living u kinda turn into a pussy and dont want to run the mig welder, what a f'n mess all over my fresh paint.oh well rattle cans are cheap





now this build is caught up to present day. i did it like this so i didn't have a 2 year old build up thread.hoping to get this thing ready for 4th of July. our club has a run up to a fire lookout that still has snow and we haven't got there the last 2 years

[WOODZUK]

got the frame side trackbar mount beefed up last night




got some nuts and bolts for the bump cans so hopefully i can get them on and get some paint on the frame this weekend

[WOODZUK]

i forgot about these pics.went to put my PSC pump on and went and forgot to put the bolts through the pump holes before i put the pulley on.tried putting them in through the holes on the pulley but they wouldn't fit. got the correct puller from my buddy and tried to pull it off but the lip just pulled right off and yes i had the collar on the puller and squeezed tight with no slop. ANYWAY i called PSC and spoke with Lance and he said if i sent the pump back to him he would tear it apart and press the old pulley off,put it back together and send me a brand new pulley at no charge except shipping to get it there. so it cost 14.75$ to get it there. week and a half later i got my new pump back and a new pulley the the bolts could slip through.excellent customer service and great people to talk to with questions on your stuff


anyway got it all mounted up to the engine and didn't like the amount of drop from the res to the pump so i cut the pump bracket off the engine bracket and lowered it almost 2 inches and welded it up.also raised my res up and will have to cut a hole in the hood for the cap and breather vent to stick through. didn't take any pics of that stuff though.got the orbital mounted and the steering shaft built. only got pics of the orbital but i will get more when i goes back together.



just need to build my winch plate and weld my nuts and bolts on my bump cans then i can throw some paint at it.hoping to get the front diff put together the rest of the way this weekend and have some paint on the frame

[WOODZUK]

got the rear driveline that was in it if anybody is interested, it was one of Trail Toughs 28 degree cv drivelines. slip splines have some play and the collar around the slip splines is beat up where the grease zirk goes in. 150$ if interested pm me.also comes with the adapter to bolt it to your stock zuke tcase. missing 1 fine thread metric bolt and a couple lock washers). this came out of a zuke that was sprung over with wrangler springs. compressed it measures 21.5 inches with the adapter and extended it measures 23.5 with adapter. bolt holes for rear flange (axle end) have been drilled out to accept 3/8 bolts.

[dcastell]

Drive lines....I better get moving on mine. I like how you hooked the orbital to the steering shaft. I just welded mine.

[WOODZUK]

Originally Posted by dcastell

Drive lines....I better get moving on mine. I like how you hooked the orbital to the steering shaft. I just welded mine.

with where things are located i don't think i would be able to get the column out if it were welded. while building this i'm also trying to make it easy to work on

[WOODZUK]

got my nuts on............my bump cans



also got my high steer arms welded and my knuckles put on. put a couple bolts in the arms and then put the steering all together just to make sure my measurements for the steering links were still ok. ran out of gas so i couldn't weld the links together, i'll take them to work tomorrow and tig weld them



did somebody say something about drivelines?




made the drivelines out of toyota stuff, used some 2 7/8 / 73mm DOM tube with .250 wall thickness. they are true within .010 but didnt have them balanced, just gonna be a trailer queen unless its absolutely necessary. 30$ a foot for the tube gotta find some bolts for the drive-lines, cant afford new ones from TG, around 96$ for all the ones i need (16) think i'll go down to fastenal and see what i can dig up

been awhile since i pulled these knuckles apart, can anybody tell me if this little rib on the scraper seal goes towards the knuckle or towards the differential? the other side of the seal is flat.

[WOODZUK]

anybody know which way that scraper seal goes, /\ does that rib go towards the knuckle or the housing?

[WOODZUK]

got hoses,just need to mount the cooler and make the return line from the valve to the cooler.







getting closer,cant get my 9.5TI winch in between the front stinger bars so im not gonna put a winch on it for now.gonna try to get paint on it this weekend and get some shite done on it.

List of things left to do:
install fuel system (have everything)
connect trans cooler lines
fill trans with oil
run rear brake lines
run front brake lines
build exhaust
fluid in front diff
add fluid to whats in the other boxes/rear diff
throw some paint at it
install seats
install 12voltguy rear e-locker switch panel
wash it (shop air)
trim a little on the hood
install battery and computer
change oil and filter
bolt down fuel cell
nut and bolt check
driveline bolts
bleed steering system

tired cant think of anything else (feel free to add to the list if i missed anything u guys see)

[dcastell]

I have room for the 9.5ti if it needs a home?

[WOODZUK]

Originally Posted by dcastell

I have room for the 9.5ti if it needs a home?

LOL its got a home on the front of the wife's jeep where it has seen more use then it did on the sammi i might get it in if i set it all the way against the trans and power steering coolers

[dcastell]

I don't use mine for winching much on the big rig. I use to suck me down on the stupid steep exits out here. I never thought I would ever use a front suck down. Get a 3500lb atv winch with a pulley on the axle. back. and your good. I have not figured out my route on my yet either.

[WOODZUK]

by measurements the winch acted like it wasn't gonna fit so i yarded the winch and bumper off the wife's jeep and stuck the 9.5TI on the front of the zuke. it fits in there but creates 4 problems 1) no air flow for the trans, radiator and power steering cooler 2) cant get my grill on which creates the next problem 3) cant shut the hood and 4) most importantly i couldn't get any bolts in the front mount holes unless i cut away a portion of the front frame and notched it. plus it was stuck all the way against the previously mentioned coolers and rubbing them pretty badly. i stuck a 2x6 under it and that helped with the mounting problem by letting it come forward about 3/4 of an inch but still had all the other problems plus i kinda thought maybe being that much higher would raise the center of gravity? some pics





my second job lets me buy parts at cost so i picked up a WARN VR-8000-S for 645$ and mounted it up still have to make a few braces but u guys get the idea. its only 20" wide so it left a little gap on each side so all is good. when i can afford it i want to pick up a remote mounted button for in the cab

[JM93LiftedYJ]

wow. I can't fab for shit.

That is one bad ass looking machine you got going there. Very envious.

[dcastell]

Looking good. Mine is really not as far as your is. Got frustrated and will probably start again this fall. What is your projected drive date?

[WOODZUK]

Originally Posted by JM93LiftedYJ

wow. I can't fab for shit.

That is one bad ass looking machine you got going there. Very envious.

Thanks,it seems like its taking forever

[WOODZUK]

Originally Posted by dcastell

Looking good. Mine is really not as far as your is. Got frustrated and will probably start again this fall. What is your projected drive date?

i got some buddies going to the Rubicon the middle to end of august and none of them has ever been there so i would like to go and help them. one is a little throttle happy and he worries me, don't want him to get stuck or pressured into something he hasn't done.