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Old 07-12-2012, 06:17 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Aww yea
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:17 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Been a while since I updated here,
The thing was WAY too tall with the stock toyota rear pack up front, so I pulled the bottom two leaves and replaced them with 2 from a front spring pack, which dropped me down to the 21" belly height I wanted on 35s. This also screwed up my shackle angle though, which I will have to deal with later...
Got the front axle completely mounted, made some perches and u bolt plates:

As well as moved the axle over 3/8" to center it under the zuk (ignore the greasable bolt, was just used for mock-up.)

Also picked up some 15x10 black steelies off craigslist for a bill and scrounged up some bald 35" tsl's for rollers

current ride height, might try to get it a little lower.:


I still needed to get my steering and drive shafts figured out, so I scoped out the not-so-local pull a part and took a trip down to snag a IFS steering box and a couple non cv high angle rear shafts, or so I had hoped... turned out that someone had already beat me to all 4 toyotas at the yard, and I went home sad with a Nissan Pathfinder box and one rear 4wd shaft and a 2wd shaft just for the hell of it.

The pathfinder box seems pretty beefy, and has a nice flat 4 bolt mount.

But I may not be able to get it far enough up the frame to line up with my arms once I go high steer. Erggg. It may be a stupid question, but what will happen if my pitman arm is about 3" behind my tie rod? bump steer like a mofo?

I also hacked off the rusted out rear tub, leaving about a foot behind the targa to close in and have a little storage.
Side shot of the proposed wheelbase:



I also have pretty much decided to ditch leafs in the rear, its alot of work to do just to hack it off when I get sick of spring wrap in a month or so. I was close to making it to the ghetto fab thread by using tractor heims, but I got lucky and sold some parts to fund some better heims.
I've got about $200 to get joints for a 3 link in the rear. Is this doable or am I doomed to sloppy ass tractor joints?
Im looking at using bushings on the frame side and heims at the axle end. Good idea or no?
Looks like I could make it with some econo heims from ruff-stuff or the chromo ones summit sells, but I could only afford 3/4 or 7/8" in size.
Would a 3/4" heim hold up to a 3000ish lb rig with a 1.3 or 1.6?
Wont be on any sandpaper rocks like out west, more like slick hillclimbs and wet rocks and Im pretty light on the skinny pedal.
Forgive me, for this will be my first time going with a link set-up and all this shit is brand new. I plan on using lots of pvc/duct-tape and pictures posted here to make sure my set-up isnt fubar-ed.
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:22 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I also got the little bro in on a little fab work:

And a cool shot of the yard full of nothing I needed:
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:09 PM   #29 (permalink)
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You're drag link might get bound up with the tie rod if if your box is too close to the axle. When the axle flexes upwards, the tie-rod will almost hit the frame. I based my setup off of a friend of mine who also has toy rears up front and he had the same problem. His tie-rod actually hit a little bit before he put longer bump stops in. We built our zuks to be as low as possible, which meant ideally flat springs. But the problem is there's not much up-travel. I think we both have about 4" of up travel.







The photos are not that great, and I've since replaced the above springs with less-arched ones.

The problem with the front of the zuk is that it's difficult to keep the front low, especially with a shackle reverse. We also outboarded our springs about 1/2" to accommodate the stock toyota perch widths and to alleviate the need to raise the passenger perch with that commonly used spacer.


For what it's worth... Grinders and kids can be very dangerous. Full face mask recommended. I've heard stories about them exploding, but mostly just kicking back pretty hard. I've only had a couple close calls with them catching on loose clothing. Thankfully I was only using a wire-wheel, not a cutting wheel. Both times thankfully it bound up in my clothing before it did any damage to me, but I felt more lucky than anything.
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:31 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Damn, has it been that long since I updated this? Anyways, made alot of progress since then.
Ditched the Idea of running leafs out back and decided to do a wishbone 3 link budget style instead of dealing with spring wrap and shitty angles.
Learned ALOT from reading tons of threads on link set-ups before I started, but still my first time so we will see how it turns out.
First is hacking the old frame off








Super bad ass NASA spec ubotanium heims
WITH custom grease fittings I added, now maybe they will last all of TWO trips
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:32 PM   #31 (permalink)
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fast forward to:







A good stretch from where we started



A little narrowed frame out of 3/16" tube to match the frame


Mocking up the rear TJ coils

Coil mounts set up


I played around with the link calculator when I was setting it up and came out pretty good. How do you publish the doc. as an image to upload on here?
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:36 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I also picked up a Astro van Saginaw box to fix my steering issues up front, they have a forward facing Pittman arm that will work well with the amount of stretch from the yota leafs. Anyone want to buy a pathfinder box?
Started on the front square drive shaft also
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:38 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Nothing like flux core and tractor heims to really make a build classy.
I know they are going to be sloppy and noisy. If I like the set up I am going to run DOM lowers and use some Ruff-Stuff heims and a johnny joint up top.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:32 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Nothing? Not even a " tractor heims kill nuns" outburst? Damn pirate is slacking...

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Old 08-14-2012, 07:56 PM   #35 (permalink)
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looks cool to me.
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Old 08-21-2012, 02:54 PM   #36 (permalink)
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You would have a better chance playing chicken with a train in a wheelchair. Those shitty tractor joints will never hold. And because you use flux core doesn't mean you should neglect prep work. Smh.













Just kiddin! That the outburst you wanted?!
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:15 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Now thats more like it!! The weld areas will get prepped before they get burned in. Its all just tacked.
Lately Ive been trying to figure out how to set up my steering up front with out going full hydro. The astro box is a pain in the ass to mount.

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Old 08-23-2012, 06:57 PM   #38 (permalink)
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As she sits:



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Old 08-23-2012, 07:05 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Looks great!
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Old 08-25-2012, 07:37 AM   #40 (permalink)
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i was too distracted by the boobies! hehe good job, replace them once you can afford it. where you located? junk yard looked semi familiar, i could be wrong though
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:16 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Im in about an hour north of atlanta, GA. The junkyard was in norcross ga. I browse the lot alot looking for fresh yotas and zukis. Went there over the weekend after seeing that they had 2 98 trackers in the lot, only to find that one low mileage 16 valve had been swimming in a river for some time and the other was already missing most of the injection system. Bummer. Left with some pontiac sunfire seats and a taurus fan.

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Old 09-01-2012, 03:14 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Started on the rear section of the bed/cage area today, lots left to do still..


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Old 09-02-2012, 04:51 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Looking good. Nice one off work, hope that tractor joint holds up.
Props from another north georgian!
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Old 09-02-2012, 07:02 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Then as we say down here, 'preciate it!! This has been somewhat of a daunting build for me being only 20 and used to sammys with spring overs and 31s but whenever i feel lost with what to do i can usually hop on pirate and read through others threads to gather my ideas and get back to it.
The longer I stare at it the longer i want to put a johnny joint in the upper link before the final welding. I should probably beat on it for a while and see if I like the set up though in case i want to tweak it some before some DOM and nice heims. At least the tractor joint is mounted the right way on the upper!!
The other thing is I need to start on is the steering but this astro box is a major PITA to mount.

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Old 09-03-2012, 12:21 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsnelson91 View Post
Nothing? Not even a " tractor heims kill nuns" outburst? Damn pirate is slacking...

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it`s going to implode, kill a bussload of nuns, you are a fag from big ghey truck land of tractor heims that should eat a bowl of dicks. Also more pics of teh women! better?

looks good BTW
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:39 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Picked up the ole harbor freight tube notcher for $30 with a coupon, as well as the famous welder cart. Cant beat em for the price.
Very pleased with the notcher, yea its sloppy and needed shimming to cut centered but it gets the job done on the cheapo. Just keep the shaft lubed...
Makes nice joints

I will say that the Milwaukee hole saws SUCK compared to the Lenox ones that lowes sells. The Milwaukee lasted 2 cuts, while the lenox hasnt given up yet and im about 12 notches in. I think the ICE hardening they do makes them brittle and snap teeth off, while the lenox has more give.
2 cuts:

12 cuts:



Anyways, heres where the rear section of the cage is at, scotch tape is future tubes. I want your input on these so please feel free to chime in on it.




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Old 09-06-2012, 07:46 PM   #47 (permalink)
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looking good. are those tj stock fronts in the rear now?
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:55 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Those were sidekick rears, but I like the TJ rears better. These are a little stiff actually. I need to find some damn tires!!! Im tired of only having 2! 15s are disappearing from the used tire market. I wish I could find some 18" wheels so i can go to big gay truck land and get some used tires from those bastards.

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Old 09-08-2012, 10:59 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Notching the diagonals is a PITA

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Old 09-08-2012, 11:00 AM   #50 (permalink)
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