Toyota Axle Swap Questions???

[yotabender]

Yes I have searched and i have read the axle Page, but i still have some questions about the swap. First On the Rear D-Shaft, what is the best Shaft That works, i really like the idea of using a toy rear shaft but i dont know how to much too shorten with using a rockrat adaptor, and how will this affect my spline lenght when i shorten?. Also what degree does everybody run in their rear ends and fronts? I have found 13 degrees in the rear, but i cant decide if i should rotate knuckles or rotate just the perches on the front, also if anyone has degree measures that would be great!!!

Any Input would greatly be appreciated
(Yes i know these are probably pretty stupid questions, but i need HELP)

[Rockrat]

First off if you are going to put a toy axle in the rear you would use a Toy front DC shaft in the rear not a straight, Unlees you are planning a differnt config for your t-case making it a center output.
Degree if you go cv in the rear keep it roughly 2 deg below the case when truck is loaded. Then it will even out when torque is applied. Every setup is going to be different on measurements and degrees based on you lift, springs, mounts and axle location.. with a standard 5.5 breeze lift with your purches at 0Deg you pinion sits at 13 deg. and that is for a standard shaft. if you go cv it would be around 17 deg. to point it at the t-case output.. And as far as shortening a shaft you, if you have at least 5.5 of suspension lift you should not have to shorten a Toy shaft from 79-85 should bolt right in with the adapters.. Again degree measurments are not a given those I listed were from my original set up which the axle was moved back 2" so your config my need more like 19 deg see what I am getting at... it is a fabrication crap shoot.

[samiguy]

using a rockrat adaptor

you have a late model sami, you dont need the adapters with a little fab work, but they do ease the install if you dont want to mess with it

[yotabender]

What About the front T-Case mount i would imagine it needs to be clearenced but by how much and does anyone have any pictures of how much they have clearenced the front T-case mount, Also what shaft is recomended for the front after this swap has been done, i need lots of slip so, i was going to use another front Toy CV Shaft, but iwas wondering if the rockrat adaptors fit the 90 and newer sammy T-Case Flanges on the front too?

If you havent already quessed im fairly new to the Zuk Scene

Thanks for your help Rockrat and Samiguy, it takes a few headaches away

[OKIE ZUK]

My '94 t-case flanges are the same bolt pattern as a Toyota. I left the front level at the perches and 13 degrees in the rear. I also run a late rear Toy axles with 3" cut off the right side. I run 1310 u-joints with 18" of slip at the front. I have no problem with the front output hitting the tranny crossmember under full droop. If you have early model Zuk then you need Rat adaptors, because O. D. of flanges are too small to redrill.

[671ZUK]

i retained the zuk drive shaft in the front and had to cut about half of the crossmember just so i could put it on. at full droop however it still hits. we will be cutting out a small section and rerouting in order to get the needed clearance. i'm using a 2" slip yoke at the t-case and a 1" spacer at the 3rd member (had to redrill).

[szki272]

671ZUK should have put the 1 in adapter on the t case that would help the clearance some

washers under the long arm(shim it up) will help some as well

[UZI 9mm]

Originally posted by 671ZUK
i retained the zuk drive shaft in the front and had to cut about half of the crossmember just so i could put it on. at full droop however it still hits. we will be cutting out a small section and rerouting in order to get the needed clearance. i'm using a 2" slip yoke at the t-case and a 1" spacer at the 3rd member (had to redrill).

ok posts like this always get me wondering how the hell you guys are getting stock sammy front d-shafts to work (regardless whether or not you have a stock sammy axle or a 'Yota**)

I don't have enough articulation droop-wise to have to cut or notch the cross member, the shaft just *barely* rubs at full droop.

using a 3/4" spacer, the u-joint angle was so severe it would not even turn.

removing the spacer, putting in a TT slip yoke and clearancing the yoke ears was the only way to even engage 4 wheel drive. It has worked successfully for many years now, but I have to replace the u-joints very often due to the brutal vibes from the u-joint killing angle

If you're getting so much droop that you have to cut the cross member that means you *have* to be going further than I am with the stock sammy u-joint angle, and I'm maxed out! so what gives?

what is the max amount you have lifted to, in inches? 6" 7" etc.?

**and I'm assuming no knuckle rotation/pinion angle change/wheelbase change from stock

[671ZUK]

Originally posted by szki272
671ZUK should have put the 1 in adapter on the t case that would help the clearance some

washers under the long arm(shim it up) will help some as well

if the 1" spacers is used at the t-case it increases the angle of the drive shaft more so than at the 3rd. i know it increases also at the 3rd, but the angle is not as severe as it is at the t-case. i'll try to get a pic.

[671ZUK]

Originally posted by UZI 9mm



ok posts like this always get me wondering how the hell you guys are getting stock sammy front d-shafts to work (regardless whether or not you have a stock sammy axle or a 'Yota**)

I don't have enough articulation droop-wise to have to cut or notch the cross member, the shaft just *barely* rubs at full droop.

using a 3/4" spacer, the u-joint angle was so severe it would not even turn.

removing the spacer, putting in a TT slip yoke and clearancing the yoke ears was the only way to even engage 4 wheel drive. It has worked successfully for many years now, but I have to replace the u-joints very often due to the brutal vibes from the u-joint killing angle

If you're getting so much droop that you have to cut the cross member that means you *have* to be going further than I am with the stock sammy u-joint angle, and I'm maxed out! so what gives?

what is the max amount you have lifted to, in inches? 6" 7" etc.?

**and I'm assuming no knuckle rotation/pinion angle change/wheelbase change from stock

the reason i went with this setup in the front was islandzuki has been using it for a couple of year now and worked well for him. his crossmember has been hacked as well. yes it does bind at full droop and i believe even before full droop. but in the past few years of wheeling only gave us a problem once. he has changed the u-joint a couple of times, but at $30 once a year for a new u-joint it didn't seem bad for me either. i would love a permanent solution (new drive shaft) but did not see the need right away.

okay here's my exact lift: (not sure what it is in inches)
stock wrangler springs with pro-comp ad-a-leaf SPOA.
TT YJ missing link kit front and rear
*front axle is about 2" forward and the rear 1" back.

[UZI 9mm]

Originally posted by 671ZUK


$30 once a year for a new u-joint it didn't seem bad for me either.


okay here's my exact lift: (not sure what it is in inches)
stock wrangler springs with pro-comp ad-a-leaf SPOA.
TT YJ missing link kit front and rear
*front axle is about 2" forward and the rear 1" back.

U-joint replacement- ya, that's about what I pay, which doesn't sound too bad on the face of it, if you just have to do it once a year.

But I usually have to replace both on the front shaft, and it sucks having to always factor in *another* $60.00 plus tax before going out on a hard/long distance wheeling trip.

Mine are pretty well shagged at the end of a good trip, and after comuting with them for awhile afterwards, I end up replacing them before the next trip, because I don't want to chance breaking one on the way or during the hard going.

Ahh. If your wheelbase is extended 2" that probably makes quite the helpful difference. I really should get around to doing that.

Idiot that I am, I've probably spent the cost of a High angle shaft in crappy u-joints

thanks

[rotozuk]

I have the other problem.. With twin t-cases and an extended wheel base (front moved forward) I have such a long front driveshaft that I have thought about using a center bearing shaft to help keep it out of the rocks. Probably just pop in a high pinion one of these days.. Right after the dollar bills stop raining from th sky.

but on the bright side, my u-joint angle is great.

-Wayne

[671ZUK]

Originally posted by rotozuk
I have the other problem.. With twin t-cases and an extended wheel base (front moved forward) I have such a long front driveshaft that I have thought about using a center bearing shaft to help keep it out of the rocks. Probably just pop in a high pinion one of these days.. Right after the dollar bills stop raining from th sky.

but on the bright side, my u-joint angle is great.

-Wayne

the buggy i'm working on is the like your rig. (dual toy cases too ) i have measured the front shaft at around 40", about 3" shorter then what the rear is going to be. with such a long shaft i'm really considering a high pinion for the front.

[rotozuk]

Originally posted by 671ZUK


the buggy i'm working on is the like your rig. (dual toy cases too ) i have measured the front shaft at around 40", about 3" shorter then what the rear is going to be. with such a long shaft i'm really considering a high pinion for the front.

So far it has not been an issue on the trails I have run. It does have a few scars from hitting rocks, but I don't think it has hung me up on anything..? But it sue hangs down there...

-Wayne

[671ZUK]

finally got some pic's of my front DS. this was taken last night after hacking the crossmember. here's a pic from the front.

[671ZUK]

side shot.

[671ZUK]

close up of the u-joint at the 3rd! pretty close!

[671ZUK]

close up of the hack and (home made) extended slip yoke! after putting the t-case back up we checked the travel of the DS to see how we're going to reroute the crossmember. we will be welding it up tonight so i'll get pics tomorrow.

[rotozuk]

Wow, that is a fair amount of angle you have going there...

-Wayne

[671ZUK]

as bad as the angle is, i was suprised that when the driver side dropped i was still able to turn the DS with my hand. i does bind but this DS will only be temprorary. (yeah right!)

[OKIE ZUK]

Wow, how much lift you running?

[Fatse'n Aga'ga]

[Islandzuki]

Originally posted by Fatse'n Aga'ga

[jdetar]

What about driveshaft options for a mix of Shaffer's coil kit (about 8" lift, front wheelbase extendable 1-3" and rear wheelbase pushed back 4") on Toyota axle's.. with Zook TC. I sold my stock driveshafts as I knew they wouldn't work.. even if I could lengthen them they're so puny anyways .

Anything I can do with Toyota DS's or am I stuck going the custom made super expensive route

[Rockrat]

Use the Toy dc shaft in the rear and the Toy rear in front, you may have to shorten or lengthen but you get the beef shaft.