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Old 04-18-2004, 11:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question rear wheel bearings

since fitting 31s and 32mm spacers to my 85 sj416 about a year ago i have had to replace the rear bearings several times.i know the wheels and spacers put extra loadings on the bearings but they dont seem to last very long at all.my question.is there an alternate bearing which will last better or is the only fix different axles?have any of you guys with stock axles had bearing failures?if so what is the fix??
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Old 04-18-2004, 12:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That is one of the reasons I went to Toy axles. I never could make my stock axles live. I was killing the front wheel bearings too. Rears would last maybe a year, fronts would last about 2.

Maybe the toys will be better.
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Old 04-18-2004, 12:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Unhappy

A YEAR,if only.i fitted new rear bearings when i did a rear disc conversion and the rears totally colapsed 57 days later and a lot of those days were spent in my garage or on the car park at work!im on my 3rd set of rear bearings in a year. my fronts have been replaced and i check and adjust the preload now and then.so they stay in one peice.the rears are single row non adjustable and die often.
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Old 04-18-2004, 09:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hey just an idea but check to be sure that your rearend housing isnt bent, I had same problem and it was bent housing. Relaced it with another one that was straight and trussed it no problems for 2yrs now.
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Old 04-19-2004, 09:00 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Remove the bearings alltogether and run a dry nylon sleeve bushing, they´ll last a lot longer.......


........It´s slow ´round here and I´m bored, so it time for that favorite game of "Let´s Fawk With The Newb!!!!!.........
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Old 04-19-2004, 10:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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how do you keep the axel's from falling out? do you slip a couple of washers on the teflon then press the retaining bushing back on for holding and oil seal to work? what grade and color teflon do you use? do you drive it on the road very far this way? Thank's.
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Old 04-19-2004, 11:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRfuelish
how do you keep the axel's from falling out? do you slip a couple of washers on the teflon then press the retaining bushing back on for holding and oil seal to work? what grade and color teflon do you use? do you drive it on the road very far this way? Thank's.

That´s right, you use the stock retaining bushing to hold it all together. I don´t know the grade of the teflon, it´s a stock item in the storeroom where I work........ It´s white in color, tho...........

No problem on the road, the only care is to overfill the diff with oil just a bit so that it gets lubricated......

HTH


.........OK Fawkers, who´s gonna come to my rescue and corroborate the load o shit that I´m spewing here?!?!?
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Old 04-19-2004, 02:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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thanks for the input guys,i like the sound of the teflon bush,
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Old 04-20-2004, 06:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xamtex
thanks for the input guys,i like the sound of the teflon bush,

No problem, let us know how it works for you.........


...........I´m starting to feel guilty here, this noob´s gonna end up fawking up his rig...... Anyone wanna jump in here and keep this thread going so that we can EVENTUALLY tell him that this is all a line of shite?!?!................


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Old 04-20-2004, 03:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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@ billj

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Old 04-20-2004, 05:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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why is it so difficult to get a sensible answer from you people?no wonder 99% of the planet hates you all.
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Old 04-29-2004, 11:59 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Just build a full floater rear. then you wont kill the bearings, but if the housing is bent you will eat splines eventually.
with the floater rear you pick up Disk brakes as well, just an added bonus. Depending on what caliper it uses you loose the parking brake. several places make t-case mounted parking brakes if you dont use one of the floater kits that use Subaru calipers with built in parking brakes.

Cant remember who makes the Full Floater kit though
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Old 04-29-2004, 12:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xamtex
why is it so difficult to get a sensible answer from you people?no wonder 99% of the planet hates you all.
Well it all adds up then, we are "one-percenters" around here
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Old 04-29-2004, 01:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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OK, Spidertrax and Trail Tough make Full floater 'kits'
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Old 04-29-2004, 01:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I quit running bearings and just pack a gresy rag into my spindles. The rag only lasts about a month, but are free and easy to replace. I generally just take a hammer and a punch and drive as much of the rag into the spindle as possible. Cut off the excess and install the hub.

The only thing you have to watch out for is driving over 50 MPH on the road for more than 2 miles. Sometimes the rag will ignite, and I have spend the rest of the day with a smoldering rag stuffed into my spindle.





Seriously, I generally get about 1 season out of rear wheel bearings, and 2 seasons out of the front bearings. That's just the nature of the beast.
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Old 04-29-2004, 02:00 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Rear wheel bearings, workin on 3rd year. Reason..... grease fitting at the bearings with the bearing face removed and relief plug oppisite the grease fitting. Pump till shit comes out, good to go. And I see alot of wet stuff where I wheel.
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Old 04-30-2004, 05:09 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Try here: http://www.izook.com/tech/samurai/dr...er/floater.htm
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