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Old 07-22-2004, 04:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cracks at seat attachment points... what to do?

Ok, so cleaning out the zuk I discovered that almost all of the mounting positions on the floorboard are cracked. The metal around the bolt holes literally has one or more inch long cracks extending from the holes. What did you all do 'bout that... I'm assuming it's a common thing.

I'm guessing I'll just tack down some 1/4 inch square plates as a bandaid... is that ok to do?
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Old 07-22-2004, 05:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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yep it common mostly on the passanger side.....I just rewelded thew crack to stop any rust then welded a 1/4 plate and drilled a new hole for a nut and bolt.......
then I tell anyone over 250pounds to go ride in the heeps
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Old 07-22-2004, 06:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yup... weld it then plate it. Common problem.
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Old 07-22-2004, 06:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Mine did it too.
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Old 07-22-2004, 07:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Mine did it two. I solved the problem by reducing the stress on the seat mounting points (i.e. running on the treadmill and losing weight).
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Old 07-22-2004, 07:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Mine is attached to the exo cage that is attached to the frame.
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Old 07-22-2004, 08:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jones
Mine did it too.

LOL this thread is hilarious

I was always too embarassed to mention that my seat base was cracking :fatass:

I had no idea that others had similar....problems

Riveted heavy guage steel sheet metal over top of mine (driver's side raised box section front mount)

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Old 07-22-2004, 08:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juicebox
Mine did it two. I solved the problem by reducing the stress on the seat mounting points (i.e. running on the treadmill and losing weight).
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Old 07-22-2004, 09:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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One word of caution to everyone that has filled ther Crack

the plate you use to reinforce the seat, be sure to round all the corners generously, and if its thick plate (1/8" or better) try to take any sharp edges off the sides as well. just chamfer it with a grinder or file.

Reason:
the sharp edges and corners on the reinforcment you welded in WILL tear out the original floor under high loads and flexing of the floor pan.

Just a heads up to all those that dont want thier Cracks growing in the future


BTW....who else burns thru the factory floor when they weld on it?......I dont think my MIG can weld cold enough for that tin foil.
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Old 07-22-2004, 10:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Looks like I'll be fabbing some new mounts at the same time since I picked up some subaru seats =). Thx
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Old 07-22-2004, 11:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orionn
Reason:
the sharp edges and corners on the reinforcment you welded in WILL tear out the original floor under high loads and flexing of the floor pan.


yes, very good advice






Quote:
Originally Posted by Orionn
BTW....who else burns thru the factory floor when they weld on it?......I dont think my MIG can weld cold enough for that tin foil.

[Nodding]

*weld, weld*

awe crap, now look what I've done. the hole's bigger than when I started

ended up buying a super cheapo lincoln 110 flux core wire feed, strictly for body and exhaust tubing. My gawd the welds look like bird doodoo, but they don't burn holes through
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Old 07-22-2004, 11:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Have you tried running the thinner .023 or .025 wire? Much easier on thinner metals
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Old 07-23-2004, 04:29 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocKrawler
Have you tried running the thinner .023 or .025 wire? Much easier on thinner metals

I am running .023, with 75/25 mix.
The welder is a Miller 185.

perhaps I can change out to pure Argon, that may cool the welds down a bit, but also means I need to buy a new tank I just filled the other one.
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