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Old 02-01-2002, 10:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Are Toy axles strong enough?

After reading so many threads with guys having Dana 44's and so on, I was wondering if my 1983 Toyota truck axles will be strong enough? Are they holding up for everyone that is using them? I'm putting them in my Zuk with a VW 1.6 TD and a GRSII.
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Old 02-01-2002, 10:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It all depends on what your gonna do with it, I run a set of 83's and they have worked like a charm.
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Old 02-01-2002, 11:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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NO...............Nothing is ever strong enough...............But they'll do just fine!!
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Old 02-02-2002, 12:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Did you guys add anything to strengthen them? Also, I was wondering if the Spidertrax 1/4 eliptic setup could be installed at the same time, but with the Toyota axle. Any thoughts?
Thanks
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Old 02-02-2002, 06:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by EMIEVEL
Did you guys add anything to strengthen them? Also, I was wondering if the Spidertrax 1/4 eliptic setup could be installed at the same time, but with the Toyota axle. Any thoughts?
Thanks
I have been doing a running test on my toy axles. Ran 12 hardcore trails in Dec, no probs, another 6 in Jan. Only issues were my Steering arms working loose. Pulled the front axles twice and the axles look beautiful. I should hit 24 trails in just under 3 months, that's about two years wheeling for most normal people. Honestly these things are looking bulletproof with 33's and a 94:1 crawl ratio. Do a search for the D44 Vs Toy axle thread, lot of good info there. I believe everyone agreed the rear axle is the same strength as a D44 rear, the smallest dia on the Toy is actually slightly bigger than a 44. So the question is how long will the birfs last on the lighter Zuk?
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Old 02-02-2002, 07:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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gears

Hey Chris which gears are you running in your toy's and in your t-case to get 94:1?
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Old 02-02-2002, 09:56 AM   #7 (permalink)
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OILBURNER's running a set of '83 Toys with 5.29:1 high pinions, GRSII, and 1.9L VW diesel. Now with a Klune-V....

He broke a Birfield at Disney last year. It was one of those tricky spots where the front end has to pull the back up a steep ledge. Traction at Disney is phenomenal, either the rig climbs or something breaks! He was running 35" BFG's.

The next Zuk behind Tim had stock axles, and it broke too.

I climbed it with no problems!

I hear the Long Ent. Toyota axles are holding up well. Have y'all heard anything about them? Has anybody broken one of those?
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Old 02-02-2002, 11:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: gears

Quote:
Originally posted by Rockrat
Hey Chris which gears are you running in your toy's and in your t-case to get 94:1?
Probably 5.29's and GRSII.....

3.625x4.89x5.29= 94:1
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Old 02-02-2002, 01:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Toy axles? NO WAY!!!! J/K, ANYTHING is better than stock. (except a 35c)
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Old 02-02-2002, 01:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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With the new birfields out for the toty's I can honestly say the only reason I would go for the 44's is for width, if thats what you want! Plus, its sooooo much nicer and easier to set the gears up with the the third member on a bench versus dana style under truck. My 2 cents
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Old 02-02-2002, 02:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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ditto. what about a toy with birfield elimators and ctm u joints? besides the cost it "could" be done and probably be pretta dam strong.
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Old 02-02-2002, 02:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Well, no one has broken the Longfields yet... and I think at least 15-20 guys went out and got the birfield eliminator kit. I think all but one of them have busted it. Which one would you get?

Especially considering that a set of <a href="http://www.toyotasuperaxles.com/">Superbirfs</a> is $230, while a Birf eliminator kit is $600 + CTM Ujoints is $$$.

Plus, with either of these solutions, the weak link should be the inner axle shaft. Which means youd need to carry a SPARE eliminator kit.

Installing the eliminator kit involves pressing a race into the axletube, which would have to be removed in the field in order to run a set of stock birfs as a spare. With the Long's birfs you pull off the knuckle, slap in the spare axles, and put it back together.
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Old 02-02-2002, 03:14 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Besides, Toyota axles are easier to work on:
  • Flange style driveshafts vs. straps & bolts / Ubolts
  • Third member gears vs. setup in axle
  • Carry an entire spare carrier
  • Changing Birfs vs. U-Joints
  • Pulling entire knucke
Also, I wonder how many of you guys out there are aware of the "Camo Method" of replacing Birfields on a Toy axle:

Pull locking hub and remove snap ring
Unbolt seal/felts on back of knuckle
Unbolt brake caliper and tie out of the way
Unbolt steering arm
Pull entire outer knuckle assembly off of axle
Sawp in your parts
Put it back together.

It's a big-time shortcut since you don't need to mess with the 54mm socket or wheel bearings.
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Old 02-02-2002, 04:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Yota_san
I wonder how many of you guys out there are aware of the "Camo Method" of replacing Birfields on a Toy axle:
Uh, you mean the "Chris Robbins Method"?

I found that short cut a while back, it work great on Zuki axles too. Running stock axles, you get Fast at changing those damn things!
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Old 02-02-2002, 04:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I just got my "longfields" yesterday for the LC axles I am installing. No more fear of breaking axles!
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Old 02-02-2002, 07:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by CSR
Uh, you mean the "Chris Robbins Method"?
I found that short cut a while back, it work great on Zuki axles too. Running stock axles, you get Fast at changing those damn things!
I imagine. How many have you broken? I watched a guy do a Toy Birf this way in about 15-20 minutes from the first pop until the time he put his rig in gear and drove off.

I'm in the middle of taking my axle apart and rebuilding it right now for the axle swap. There's no WAY I'd want to take all those little parts and bearings out on a trail covered with dust and mud.
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Old 02-02-2002, 07:22 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Yota_san

I imagine. How many have you broken?
Four. Drivers side can be changed quick on my rig, the short side is a bitch now.... because of my x-over steering arm.

I hear ya on the small greasy parts, I've had my front end apart on the trail, greasy bearings are like dirt magnets. I usually just load my junk on the trailer when I break it, instead of fixing it on the trail. The floor of my garage is relatively dirt free.
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Old 02-03-2002, 11:25 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Old 02-03-2002, 11:36 AM   #19 (permalink)
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birfield time

Bob Norman the owner of Killer Bee From IZOOK 12min axle swap
thats pretty quick...
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Old 02-03-2002, 02:47 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Old 02-03-2002, 11:03 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Yota_san

Also, I wonder how many of you guys out there are aware of the "Camo Method" of replacing Birfields on a Toy axle:

Pull locking hub and remove snap ring
Unbolt seal/felts on back of knuckle
Unbolt brake caliper and tie out of the way
Unbolt steering arm
Pull entire outer knuckle assembly off of axle
Sawp in your parts
Put it back together.

It's a big-time shortcut since you don't need to mess with the 54mm socket or wheel bearings.
Close......CEPT

NO SNAP RING on the outer= no locking hub remove'l

NO caliper removal needed.. (pull as one unit)

just

Take the tire off..
Unbolt the top steering arm..
Loose'n the bottom arm...
Remove ring/felt/rubber washers...
Pull WHOLE knuckle, disk, caliper off as one unit..
Swap parts...
(reverse process and GET IT)
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Old 02-04-2002, 06:46 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by CSR


Oilburner broke a Birfield at Disney last year. It was one of those tricky spots where the front end has to pull the back up a steep ledge. Traction at Disney is phenomenal, either the rig climbs or something breaks! He was running 35" BFG's.

The next Zuk behind Tim had stock axles, and it broke too.

I climbed it with no problems!

Chris, Chris... I have to clarify this post for you
I was Backing down that obstacle without a spotter (to change lines) and wedged a big rock in between my front tire & the fender well - put the axle in a bind & it broke. (rather easily I thought - unknown origin/condition of the stock axles) Since then I have thrashed the stock Birfields pretty good & so far no problems. If I break another, I will likely invest in the modified axles.
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Old 02-04-2002, 09:28 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Not strong enough!

Quote:
I was wondering if my 1983 Toyota truck axles will be strong
<font size="+1" color="Yellow"><b>NO WAY!!! Especially with a...</b></font>

Quote:
I'm putting them in my Zuk with a VW 1.6 TD and a GRSII.
<font size="+1" color="Yellow"><b>I think you need a couple of 2 1/2 ton Rockwells!</b></font>



<font color="Red"><b>Yeah it'll hold up just fine...</b></font>

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Old 02-04-2002, 08:11 PM   #24 (permalink)
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rockwells for sale

Hey, if you're looking for beef....I'll sell you a pair of 2 1/2 ton Rockwells (lockers front and rear) and 57" tall tractor tires (on 16" wide wheels).

Instant monster truck for $1500
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Old 02-04-2002, 10:19 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Ah, no on the Rockwells, but thanks for thinkin of me.
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