Summer Project

[Azrckcrawler]

Ok, here's the first look at my plans for the back end of the Zuk this summer. This is my first draft so I don't have all the supports figured out yet. The boxes are storage boxes, anyone got a good source for aluminum boxes w/ locking mechanism? Won't carry a spare unless we are going really far into a trail (like the Con) but I am going to make room for it. Thinking about mounting a pair of the Jeep style tailights which have turn/stop/backup in one unit, they'll be flush with the back next to the spare. Feel free to chime in with any suggestions. Eventually I am going to model the frame/tires so I can get a better idea of the heights. Right now the side bars around the boxes are level with the top of the existing sheet metal.

[DemoMike]

What'd you model your cage with? I've been considering doing some myself, been using Solidworkds lately...

[okcrawler]

Allow me to chime in with one suggestion. One item missing from most 4wd cages is the cross support for the main loop. It's often difficult to add due to interference with seating and rear access, but is a very important component. Think about it, maybe early in the process it would give you a chance to design it in cleanly and effectively.

Also, I don't know if you have used it before but, consider 4130 tubing. I've been in the race car world for years, and when I did my exocage I priced chromoly vers DOM and I could actually get chromoly cheaper. It's a little more difficult to work with, but it's amazingly strong. Just because I had some left, I built my lower control arms out of 1-1/2 .100" wall 4130. Everyone (even me) had concerns if it was strong enough. Well, after about 8 months of BASHING them on rocks, they've developed a slight bow but not a single DENT exists! It's also a great way to keep the weight down and still be beast strong!

Looks Sweet. I take it the rear body is going to go the way of the Sawzall

[0ILBURNER]

Originally posted by okcrawler
Also, I don't know if you have used it before but, consider 4130 tubing. I've been in the race car world for years, and when I did my exocage I priced chromoly vers DOM and I could actually get chromoly cheaper. It's a little more difficult to work with, but it's amazingly strong. Just because I had some left, I built my lower control arms out of 1-1/2 .100" wall 4130. Everyone (even me) had concerns if it was strong enough. Well, after about 8 months of BASHING them on rocks, they've developed a slight bow but not a single DENT exists! It's also a great way to keep the weight down and still be beast strong!

Sorry I must disagree here - I made my rear lower control arms out of the same size 4130 you did & I can't wait to get it off of there. It it plenty strong, but just not Durable enough. After Las Cruces, both the arms are bowed and have several dents. To their credit, they survived the bashing, and would probably hold up longer, but they are damaged to the point I can't risk not replacing them. I can provide photographic evidence in a day or so. I want to Sleeve the 4130 w/ 3/16" DOM inside it. Really want to clearance the arms, but those plans are still on the drawing board.

Chris, if you are really going to cut the back half of your rig, you'll want to protect those toolboxes more than what you're showing!

[Crusarius]

Chris check that out he used square tube around the boxes and still has plenty of room in the bed for 1.5 coolers

http://www.imagination-photo.com/pic...l/vernal28.jpg

if you want to see a bigger pic let me know I may have some better ones to


www.rockmodified.com

[0ILBURNER]

Originally posted by Crusarius
Chris check that out he used square tube around the boxes and still has plenty of room in the bed for 1.5 coolers

http://www.imagination-photo.com/pic...l/vernal28.jpg

THAT's the ticket --
(bet I can still put a rock into that latch, tho)

[okcrawler]

Back from lunch....

Originally posted by 0ILBURNER
Sorry I must disagree here - I made my rear lower control arms out of the same size 4130 you did .... both the arms are bowed and have several dents

DUDE, it's a sheet metal gauge tubing..... I guarantee you DOM tube would be a boomerang by now Dat's what I'm say'n

I'm thinkin' my next arms will be 1-1/2 1018 BAR STOCK! Low, unsprung weight - good for a rock crawler

[Azrckcrawler]

Originally posted by okcrawler
Allow me to chime in with one suggestion. One item missing from most 4wd cages is the cross support for the main loop. It's often difficult to add due to interference with seating and rear access, but is a very important component. Think about it, maybe early in the process it would give you a chance to design it in cleanly and effectively.

Also, I don't know if you have used it before but, consider 4130 tubing. I've been in the race car world for years, and when I did my exocage I priced chromoly vers DOM and I could actually get chromoly cheaper. It's a little more difficult to work with, but it's amazingly strong. Just because I had some left, I built my lower control arms out of 1-1/2 .100" wall 4130. Everyone (even me) had concerns if it was strong enough. Well, after about 8 months of BASHING them on rocks, they've developed a slight bow but not a single DENT exists! It's also a great way to keep the weight down and still be beast strong!

Looks Sweet. I take it the rear body is going to go the way of the Sawzall

What do you consider a cross support for the main hoop? I have a bar that goes between teh main hoop mid way down.

[Azrckcrawler]

Originally posted by 0ILBURNER



Chris, if you are really going to cut the back half of your rig, you'll want to protect those toolboxes more than what you're showing!

I was thinking about using a low profile missile container or some other army ammo carrier. Since the tops of those boxes are level with the stock sheet metal in back do you really think I'll catch those? I mean that is nearly hood level and I only hit that once in a while

[Azrckcrawler]

Originally posted by DemoMike
What'd you model your cage with? I've been considering doing some myself, been using Solidworkds lately...

I use Solidworks at work. Now you know what I do on my lunch hour.

[0ILBURNER]

Originally posted by Azrckcrawler


I was thinking about using a low profile missile container or some other army ammo carrier. Since the tops of those boxes are level with the stock sheet metal in back do you really think I'll catch those? I mean that is nearly hood level and I only hit that once in a while

Oh I see - your illustration is intended to be used WITH the rear sheetmetal intact (at least some, anyway) I was thinking more along the lines of the blue rig in the photo --

I wanted storage boxes over my rear tires in a bad way, but never figured out a way to do it & have it look like I wanted, so I changed the design. Glad I did, too - you saw what I did to the stake pockets on the r. pass. side!

[Tan Wheeler No Mo]

THis is my project

[okcrawler]

Originally posted by Azrckcrawler

What do you consider a cross support for the main hoop? I have a bar that goes between teh main hoop mid way down.

Please excuse the HACK of your pretty drawing..... I'm an AutoCad guy.. I don't know how that 3D stuff works..

We had a (you know what) that rolled end over end and over side recently. His aftermarket cage stayed intact but the center console (with CB etc) ended up directly over the drivers side seat. The problem is, the passenger seat was left completely exposed. Luckily there was no one riding with him, AND it rolled that direction. The cross support keeps the loop from shifting over! As our Sami's get taller and the axles get wider, they tend to land directly on the top corner of the loop.

[Tan Wheeler No Mo]

[DemoMike]

Originally posted by okcrawler


Please excuse the HACK of your pretty drawing..... I'm an AutoCad guy.. I don't know how that 3D stuff works..

You'll be doing 3D sooner or later, Ha Ha


We had a (you know what) that rolled end over end and over side recently. His aftermarket cage stayed intact but the center console (with CB etc) ended up directly over the drivers side seat. The problem is, the passenger seat was left completely exposed. Luckily there was no one riding with him, AND it rolled that direction. The cross support keeps the loop from shifting over! As our Sami's get taller and the axles get wider, they tend to land directly on the top corner of the loop.

I gotta agree, diagonal bracing rules!

Happy Friday!

[Rockrat]

dam look kinda like a pepsi can EXPLODED

[grimbo]

I agree the cross support is the way to go. It stops the bars shifting and keeps things nice and tight throughout. i have gone a full external cage that is tied into my custom rear tub whih is made out of 2" square as you can see from the progress shots below

[rotozuk]

Originally posted by grimbo
I agree the cross support is the way to go. It stops the bars shifting and keeps things nice and tight throughout. i have gone a full external cage that is tied into my custom rear tub whih is made out of 2" square as you can see from the progress shots below

Wait a second.. What the hell is that red thing with 4 doors parked next to your Zuk? It looks like a Zukish hood.. TLC or some exotic Zuk?

-Wayne

[grimbo]

It's a Mercedes Benz G Wagen
Absolutley awesome offroad comes stock standard with front and rear lockers checkout more info here
http://www.suzuki-4wd-club.rockcrawl.../godfreys.html

[fatkid]

How are you going to tie the front hoop into the main hoop? You might also want to consider some type of cross support on the down bars off of the main you have in the picture. Also from what I see in the pic, he has a spreader from side to side. It's not as good as a corner to corner but it's better than nothing at all. Looks clean, can you build it? What size tube do you plan on using?

[Azrckcrawler]

Originally posted by fatkid
How are you going to tie the front hoop into the main hoop? You might also want to consider some type of cross support on the down bars off of the main you have in the picture. Also from what I see in the pic, he has a spreader from side to side. It's not as good as a corner to corner but it's better than nothing at all. Looks clean, can you build it? What size tube do you plan on using?

I haven't drawn my existing cage yet, but that's the main that's on my rig right now. When I get some more time this week I am going to try and put my existing front in and play around with the back some more. I'd like the rear corners to taper in, since this is a frequent hang up point on the trails. We'll probably use 1.5" like we did on the front cage.

[Root Moose]

Originally posted by TOY 4 RCKS

I like how you cut down the doors - neat idea.

Where'd the sawzall go...