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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Member # 35750
Location: Lynnwood,WA
Posts: 271
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Door hinge screw trouble
i know its a newbie question, but i need it solved.
I am tryign to remove my doors from my Sammi, but cannot get the screws on teh hinges out. I've tried an impact screw driver, but still nothing. The heads just continue to get stripped out. I was able to get the screws out on teh driver's side and replace them with good old fashion bolts but now am having a bithc tryign to get the passenger side screws out. I have drilled out on bolt already and still nothing. Any ideas/ pointers?
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[SIZE=5][FONT=Arial Black][COLOR=DarkRed]NEVER FORGET #40[/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE] 87 Zuk: 5.13's, locked front and rear, 32's, Calmini X-over, and some square tube |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Member # 24736
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 67
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I just went through this process. Those bolts suck ass. I failed several times before I got them out.
1st attempt - Stripped - Large Phillips Head screwdriver. 2nd attempt - Created a big hole - Use the Craftsman "Bolt Extractor". 3rd attempt - It worked - Use Dremil to make the bolt head a flathead. Take a hammer and chisel...beat on one side to get it to spin (counter clockwise).
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:::90 Zuki::: Way too much to list. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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grind a notch in the head of the screw large enough for a chisel at about a 30* angle. put a soldering iron in the head of the bolt for a minute or two. wack the chisel with a BFH. they'll come out every time like that, and then you just replace with some stainless bolts (use anti-seize)
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#6 (permalink) |
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Hillbilly Houndsman
Join Date: Aug 2002
Member # 13420
Location: Kenna, West Virginia
Posts: 6,825
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I stripped the X out of mine, went to the drill.
The bit was almost the same size as the threaded portion. As I was drilling, the heat caused the locking compound to come unglued and everyone started spinning on the drill bit. It was always about the time I got through the head and started into the threaded body of the bolt/screw. So, heat is the key. If you drill them, you might try to find a set of reverse rotation drill bits. I bought a set at HF for a few dollars just for the same occasion in the future. Replaced screws with bolts to avoid this problem in future. Just throw the phillips head bolts away when you are done to resist the urge to reuse them.
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The penalty for punching someone in the mouth is way too high in our society. www.MountaineerOffroad.com Last edited by SilverZuk; 06-01-2005 at 01:18 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Member # 35750
Location: Lynnwood,WA
Posts: 271
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thanks for teh help guys. i will have to give them a try this weekend when i go home. oh, and don't worry about reusing the shitty screws, i will never use them again.
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[SIZE=5][FONT=Arial Black][COLOR=DarkRed]NEVER FORGET #40[/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE] 87 Zuk: 5.13's, locked front and rear, 32's, Calmini X-over, and some square tube |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Biohazard
Join Date: Jan 2001
Member # 3088
Location: West Coast, USA
Posts: 10,917
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Ditto on the left hand 3/8, works every time....
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Quote:
Wanted, Ak parts, kits or whole rifles! |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
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Just to add to the newbie questions... when cutting the hinge- do you cut the pin right at the top of the piece connected to the door, and grind the back to clear the body?
I cut the pins on mine (87 Sami), but it seems like a lot of grinding is necessary |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 39084
Location: Salem, Oregon
Posts: 361
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I am about to do this but in response to the last question, from what I've read, you cut it right above the part that hooks to the door, then once u have both off, grind down the pin a little so its not sticking up any above the rest of the hinge. Cant wait to do mine, looks like I'll be using the 3/8 reverse bit like a few have said here, sounds like it works like a charm
-David-
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'87 Zuk, Toyota axle swap & lots of goodies |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 45927
Posts: 63
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HEAT HEAT HEAT!!! I tryed everything under the sun and striped all them out! then in the end i decided to try heating them...what do you know they came right out! use a micro torch or a blow torch if your not worried about that paint.
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92 zuki/buggy 1.6 8v,locked dana 44's f&r with 5:13's, 6:1 t-case with a forrest bucket, 36's |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Member # 39084
Location: Salem, Oregon
Posts: 361
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I know I'm not torchin my paint, but would somethin like my sis's hair dryer get hot enough?
LOL but seriously would it? Always had a feelin she'd come in handy for somethin + what is the weapon of choice to hack away the top part of the hinge once the doors off? Small dremel disk? Thanks -David-
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'87 Zuk, Toyota axle swap & lots of goodies |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Member # 3945
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 1,520
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I've removed some of the body bolts like Bill has. Drilled down the center just slightly larger than the bolt itself. The head will pop off and leave enouggh of the bolt shaft to grab once the bracket is out of the way. Usually the bolt will turn very easily (I even removed some by hand this way).
The other way I've removed some is by grinding a slot after it stripped out. Then using a huge flathead screw driver on it.
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Mark |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Use heat, Suzuki used some crazy type LOCtite. heat them up with a mini torch just to the point of turning red, then screw them out
If you are worried about paint, get some model clay and wrap around the bolt so NO paint shows, only the bolt head.
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Member # 34478
Location: Clarksville,TN/Ft Campbell,KY
Posts: 57
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I also do the chisle method. You wont melt paint and it works every time. Its about the only way i try when junkyarding now. Its failsafe.
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Army aircraft, it takes a college education to break them and a highschool education to fix'm. Go figure. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Member # 40544
Location: Yucca Valley, CA
Posts: 351
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drill or grind the head off, the paint is what is holding it, you can unscrew by hand or use vicegrips just like the martian said
bob www.extremewheelers4christ.org |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Member # 11372
Location: Ribeirão Pires, Brasil
Posts: 1,789
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Bill,
I'll let you in on a little secret........... the guy's right, it IS the paint that's holding them there door hinge screws so tight.......... .....or at least is was on the four or five Samurais that I've done. After drilling off the screw heads, the threaded part came out by hand.......
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Bill Subi powered Beetle Buggy |
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#21 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Member # 25152
Location: Langley
Posts: 91
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Quote:
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[QUOTE=killr-b]Here is my input--- You sir are a piece of safety equipment worn on the head of an inline skater !!!!!! [/QUOTE] |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Member # 35750
Location: Lynnwood,WA
Posts: 271
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thanks again guys, i don't think those screws will stay on long now.
__________________
[SIZE=5][FONT=Arial Black][COLOR=DarkRed]NEVER FORGET #40[/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE] 87 Zuk: 5.13's, locked front and rear, 32's, Calmini X-over, and some square tube |
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#23 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Paint from the inside??? Or outside???? becuase if it the paint on the outside you guys are pussie's I've done my fair share of samy's too and everyone of them had this grey crap on the threads. Maybe it waas primer, but it was thick as fawlk. I have been able to get a few screws out by hand power and a big ass philips head
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#24 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Member # 45147
Location: omaha, ne
Posts: 36
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jus fyi : on my bolts the chisel and hammer didnt work, the slot for flathead didnt work either so I grinded the heads to have 2 flat spots on it then put the vicegrips on it and they had something to grab on and then they came right out.
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#25 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30444
Location: Salt Lake City,UT
Posts: 182
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i did mine a few weeks ago and I didn't even take the bolts out. I have a dremel that I got at Wal-Mart for $30. It worked perfect so that I could cut the hinges while the doors and hinges were still on the samurai
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1994 EFI Samurai, spoa, yj conversion, 33's, spool,etc. 1993 nissan hardbody, 2" body and 32's; for business |
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