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Old 08-19-2005, 03:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Need Questions Answered

I have a stock 87 sami which I am getting very angry with. When I first got it I could 70 - 75 MPH now I have a hard time doing 60 mph. It starts quickly, very alert and peppy in town, but on the highway my leg goes into cramps from pressing so hard on the accelerator and I barely get to 60 mph and GOD Forbid if a slight incline is involved and extreme luck going over 45. I just wondering why the degration of the power? it ran fine before and runs fine now I just can't get over 60 anymore. Is there a sail kit available, or should I get a larger ashtray to hold more nuts for the squrriels under the hood?

I also need questions answered for gearing.
I want to put 31" tires on and was told to change out the ring and pinion and then I was told to change the gearing in the transfer case. I read on these forums that someone changed both the transfer case gears and the ring and pinion out but to what? I see many ring and pinion kits or I guess ends on ebay and such but what about transfer case gears?

Any help is appreciable.
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Old 08-19-2005, 08:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Have you changed the exhaust yet? If not it is possible that the head pipe has colapsed because it is a three wall pos that after being hot and cold so many times can look like a hammered pop can inside, or check you cat.

as far as gearing goes I would do a t case and 4.62 gears, My buddy is running 31s and just a tcase right now and he needs a little better gearing for the hwy. we are going to do gears shortly in his.

Last edited by Gizmo88; 08-19-2005 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 08-19-2005, 11:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Gizmo is correct, I installed a thourley header and 2 1/2 inch exhaust with 235/75/15 tires with shackles and i can run 70 to 75 without to much of a struggle. I have also recently installed the iskendarian torquer cam that made it quicker off the line and a little more climbing power but I still have problems with climbing some highway mountain passes so Ive been looking into a 1.6 16 valve or possibly a 2.8 or 3.1 chevy v6.
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Old 08-21-2005, 06:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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have you changed or removed the front bumper? that thing is a wonderful air dam. once I took mine off, life sucked. slow, bad mpg. are you carbed? could be that. also, you need to do a leakdown test. start with checking your compression, then add a little oil to the cyl. and test again, if pressure increases you got worn rings, if it stays the same it's the head. sammi's are famous for burning exhaust valves, my performance got to where I had to start off if 4-lo then 4-hi 1st, it was the big holes in my 3 and 4 exhaust valves. I ran 31's ok, but I got a sidekick 1.6 8 valve now. at the time I still got around but no 5th. do the t-case gears to make up for the 31's. get a grs II from petroworks. it's perfect for 31's plus the ultralow gear is awesome. I used to put it in 1st 4-lo and not hit the throttle at all but hold the brakes hard hard hard nad when the fronts locked up the backs kept pushing my forward. front hubs not locked.
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Old 08-22-2005, 04:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I have a 2'' exhaust with a Cherry Bomb. Although I'm now legally deaf, it can hit about 75-80 mph with 235's. It just takes awhile to build this speed.
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Old 08-23-2005, 05:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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1st prolly be good to do a compression test. Timing, etc spot-on? Air cleaner clean? Have you changed all the fluids? How about valve lash? Also maybe check, see if there might be a problem with the cat. If it gets plugged up you might experience those symptoms. Check the carb pre-heater hose & stuff. In fact, for testing, just disconnect it.

About the gearing... I think you need to determine your anticipated needs and use of the vehicle. A standard old 4.16:1 set of t-case gears will correct purdy good for the 31's, assuming you get the engine working well. This gives you good roadability, plus you can go off-road a whole heap better now. If you combine diff gears with the t-case gears you may end up geared so low you can't freeway it.

If yuo have changed tires to larger tires it will slow you down some. Mine also gets a *lot* faster when I pump my 31's up to about 30-32 lbs from my normal 22 lbs.
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Change your differential gears first. I don't know how you use your rig, but if your offroad using lowrange and you have done a gear reduction in just the t-case you can add a lot of unwanted pressure on your driveshafts, so do the diffs first or do both
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Old 08-28-2005, 01:30 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the info:

From all the info given I should:1. Change all fluids. Check air cleaner. Check timing. Do leakdown test. Check the compression, then add a little oil to the cyl. and test again, if pressure increases I have worn rings, if it stays the same it's the head and could be the exhaust valves.
2.Check header, cat converter. Change exhaust to a header and full 2" exhaust system, add a iskendarian cam

AS Far as Gearing:I am in between 4.16:1 or a GRS II T-case?

The differentials should be what gearing?

Once again thanks for everything so far.
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Old 08-30-2005, 08:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't forget to check your fuel filter. How long has it been? Does it bog down in all gears or only on the highway?
Compression will always go up on a wet comp. test. If the dry test is out of spec. then that is when the wet test will lead you to rings or valves.
I've seen these jump a tooth on the timing belt and I've seen the keyways get torn up from the crank bolt comming loose.
Hope this helps.
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