Is body lift good idea for my kick build?

[ZONA]

I'm in the process of building my Kick and wanted to know the best way to lift it. Wanted to get some varing opinions on what would be a good way to go.

First off it has a 3" body lift on it now (was on there when I purchased it).
1" spacer or rubber bushing or something and below that is a 2" block of metal.

My shop is installing Waggy Dana 44's (wide 62") with flat tops and discs on both front and back, over the top steering and custom front and rear links, all to ride on a set of 35" BFG MT's. We're not using coil overs (cost too much) so we're going with coils and shocks independent.

My goal was to keep the stance wide and as low as possible and I didn't mind doing a little trimming but I still wanted the sides to look somewhat normal. In other words, I don't want to trim up to the hood.

I think we discussed moving the front axle up a little bit and the rear axle back some but we're not sure just how much we should go and can go.

So, with having the links, along with coils and shocks on 4 corners, how much lift should I go with to clear 35's with some moderate trimming? How far should I move each axle? And last, is it a good idea to keep that body lift on, or maybe remove the 2" block and keep the 1" spacer?

[AndrewDyck]

Mudkick's got 36s on his kick wit h minimal trimming so he'd be able to tell you how much to trim and lift. The main issue is moving the front axle forward to avoid hitting the firewall under compression and turning.

[MudKick]

I always advocate BLs.
If not overdone (keep it down to 2 inches max) and done rigth they don't really hurt, but will keep your center of gravity lower. With a combination of BL and some trimming you can run a 35 inch tire and keep your lift to minimum (I think 7 inches) to run 35s. It will keep it "low" and stable.
I've seen kicks with 10-11 inches of lift (no body lift - just suspension) and no trimming and they did not work es well as mine, even though from the outside they looked the same...

[MudKick]

Keeping it "low" definetly helps doing your own stunts :

[ZONA]

Mudkick, It's hard to tell from the single side picture of you going up the hill, but it looks like that wheelbase is not long enough for that tire size. Maybe it is, but hard to tell from that picture.

Did you move the rear axle back any at all? And how far forward is your front axle?

Also, what axles are you running? What is the width?

Do you have any shots of front and side while kick is on flat ground?

[XTREME4X4PARTS]

i started with an 8" stretch and i'm now up to over a foot, works much better with the longer wheelbase. about 7" up front and 5 or so out back.

[ZONA]

Originally Posted by XTREME4X4PARTS

i started with an 8" stretch and i'm now up to over a foot, works much better with the longer wheelbase. about 7" up front and 5 or so out back.

Can you show any pictures of your stretched ride? Did you just relocated the axles or did you do a frame stretch?

[MudKick]

With linked suspension the rear axle travels back as it's moving up. What you see in the pic is precisely where the axle needs to be in order to center itself in a wheel well under full compression.
I don't like to give out too many details out in the open so i'll leave it at that.
Front was moved 1.5 inches. The rest is in precise trimming. I wanted to keep the WB short to keep the turning radius down for our tigth rocky, twisty, narrow and off camber west coast trails...
... that and the ramp scores...ha, ha, ha... It did 1773 before maxed out the ramp on a 20 degree.