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Old 12-05-2006, 11:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cut and turn Zuk knuckles

I never see much talk about this in reference to Samurais yet it is done all the time on Jeep and Land Cruiser front axle housings.

I'm about to do a SOA and I wanna tilt the dif toward the transfer case to improve the driveline angle especially when a shackle reversal is applied..... so I'm looking at rotating the knuckles a few degrees so I can keep the factory castor.

I was told by someone that it's not neccessary but I thinking why not ?

Anybody have any ideas on this ?

BTW, did the search and didn't find a whole lot......on stock Sammi axle housings.
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Last edited by Reddog; 12-06-2006 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 12-06-2006, 01:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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both petroworks and rro don't seem to think you need to. they sell driveline spacers to help with d-shafts.

i've been mulling over the same problem...not sure about it myself.
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Old 12-06-2006, 03:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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it is just that it isn't necessary. if you have enough lift that you might need to do that then samurai axles wouldn't be appropriate.
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Old 12-07-2006, 08:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I did it to my stock front sammy housing years ago. I only had a spring over with rears up front, was it necessary? Probably not, but it was great on road, had zero wobble issues, Pinion was at a great angle and would run in 4 high much better. Easy to do if you are a good welder and have some patience. You will need a real good angle finder or a digital level for acuracy. If you haven't read much on it, all you have to do is grind down on the welds between the knuckles and housing. go down about an 1/8 inch and tap the remainder loose so the knuckle spins in the housing. Then set the knuckles at the proper caster and camber angle to stock specs, then set the pinion where you want it. re-weld. Then set your spring perches on and done.

Double check all measurements, before and during this on each side to keep everything consistent. A lot of work, but worth it in my opinion. Not really necessary these days as there are much better driveshafts and such available to take angles, but i'd do it again if I had a budget build that was going to be daily driven.
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Old 12-07-2006, 09:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddog
I did it to my stock front sammy housing years ago. I only had a spring over with rears up front, was it necessary? Probably not, but it was great on road, had zero wobble issues, Pinion was at a great angle and would run in 4 high much better
My thoughts exactly, and thanks for the advice on doing the job.
I've done a couple cut and turns on FJ40 LandCruisers and it makes a major improvement on handling.
And since this will be a daily driver I do want to keep the road handling as best as possible.
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Old 12-08-2006, 09:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you do, try to do a write-up with pics as there isn't much info on this like you said. Good Tech for someone else who might think of doing it. Keep us posted.

I still believe this set-up is the best way to go for on-road manners. With a cv front drive shaft, it would be smoother than stock cruiseing down the road in 4 high. And i'm sure there will be a lot of folks who may chime in and say that they never did this and have no issues with vibs or anything in 4 high, but if you are in two similar built sammies one with the mod, you will notice the difference.
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87 Zuk, dana 44's w/5:38 detroits,coils/3 link frt, 3 link rear 37" Krawlers
87 Zuk, SPOA, Lockright/spool, 31" Truxs MT's. shaved and trussed stock axle housings,1.6/w 1.3 head, fuel injected, 4.16 t-case
88.5 Zuk future project pending
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Old 12-08-2006, 10:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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honestly by the time you lift a zuk high enough to need to do this you are about to put tires under the zuk that are going to be beyond the strength of the zuk shafts ...
You would be best off cutting the axles and turning them in to the local scrap yard .. the first step to adding yotas or dana's
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Old 12-09-2006, 10:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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in my situation i'm trying to keep the truck original for originalities sake.

it's not a sammy though, its an lj10. i'll probably move the tcase mounts before i cut and reweld the knuckles, but thats just my preference, as this won't be a serious rock-killer, just a fun run-about.

if i have serious vibe issues i'd rather try a bolt on extension for $24 to help out.
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Old 12-09-2006, 11:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Personally I applaud you.... How ever I do agree that If you are going with enough lift to worry about drive line angles and castor, I would also be thinking about an axle upgrade..... But Like I said, I applaud you... At the very worst, it would make a good write up for newer members that are considering this. Besides, modifications to our rigs is what has moved this life stile to where it is today...
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Old 12-10-2006, 05:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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better be careful not to warp the housing. People turn toy and dana axles because its relatively easy to do with the thicker axle tubes. the sami axles are just sheet metal. There is a reason its not done!
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Old 12-10-2006, 06:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattwehrly
better be careful not to warp the housing. People turn toy and dana axles because its relatively easy to do with the thicker axle tubes. the sami axles are just sheet metal. There is a reason its not done!
Well I've got about 6 or 8 of those housings out in the junk pile so I'll just have to cut one up and see how thick that metal really is

I guess warp-welding would be an issue for someone who didn't know how to weld, but that is the least of my concerns, I can weld.

This SPOA is on my daily driver so it will see a lot of highway miles, but still with some mild off road capability. So handling on the asphalt is my prime concern......off road clearance and flex is my second.

If I do decide to do it I will take pics and post some pics, although there are already some very good writeups on "cut and turn" elsewhere in this forum.
The LandCruiser section used to have some good stuff on the subject.

Anyway thanks to all for the input !
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Old 12-11-2006, 01:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Its not about how high one makes their sammy. I only had a 4 inch springover on mine. I kept it low for a reason. Had a virtual lift as well of mod'ing the fenders a little to fit my 31's at full stuff. It flexed like crazy and the u-joint angle was pretty bad at full droop on the pass side. I couldn't afford a highangle driveshaft at the time and grinding anymore down on the yokes wasn't a good option either. So, I had the skills, the welder, so..... Plus it also was a great way for me to use four high with out any vibes. Again, it can be done other ways, but this mod is next to free. How much better can one get?

And as for warping the tubes. If you know how to weld it won't be any problem. If you don't know how to weld properly you shouldn't be working on your suspension. Or anything for that matter except for maybey your lawn furniture.

Plus where it is being welded it is much less likely to warp as you are going around the tube at the end and not in the middle or on the side like welding on a spring pad or shock mount. Yes they are thin tubes, but not that bad as you shouldn't ever weld to them.
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87 Zuk, dana 44's w/5:38 detroits,coils/3 link frt, 3 link rear 37" Krawlers
87 Zuk, SPOA, Lockright/spool, 31" Truxs MT's. shaved and trussed stock axle housings,1.6/w 1.3 head, fuel injected, 4.16 t-case
88.5 Zuk future project pending
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