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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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again.... how to bleed my Sami brakes
ok i am getting back to working on my sami and i am still having problems bleeding my brakes...I NEED HELP they just wont bleed they worked great before the longer brake line and the spring over... help me...
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Member # 89908
Location: Moore, Oklahoma (Currently Deployed)
Posts: 334
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Try gravity bleeding them first, open all of your wheel cylinders, close each cylinder as fluid comes out of them, do not depress the brake pedal at all. Then do your standard bleeding starting at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. If you can get your hands on a suction bleeder it makes the job super easy and you will not have to have anyone pump the brakes for you.
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http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=14532 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Member # 74256
Location: MA
Posts: 58
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And if you're only doing some rear brake work (like replacing rear cylinders) would you still have to mess w/ the fronts, or just do rears only? And if I'm thinking right, the driver's rear has the longest brakeline on a Sammi, then the psgr rear, right?
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~Clay '87 Samurai - Sammy Soso |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Member # 62837
Location: Peoria Illinois
Posts: 607
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When bleeding the rear, use a jack on the axle to lift the tires up about 1 ft off the ground. The proportioning valve toward the rear on the pass framerail will have an air bubble if not lifted.
I use speed bleeders and never have a problem. They are only a few bucks. Use the toyota thread bleeders on all 4 corners. Look at the auto parts store in the HELP! section.
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88 Samurai, 104WB, Locked Up Yotas, 6.5's, 36's. Chop and stretch: [URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=643403"]http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=643403[/URL] [QUOTE]I blew through two D60's ring and pinions, and three sets of superior shafts. I run 42" tsl's, and finally stepped up to a Cryo'd D30..... I will never look back[/QUOTE] |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 96374
Posts: 13
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So I assume this is the correct sequence to bleed them?
(taken from another Suzuki board) "Since the hydraulic system is dual-diagonal, bleeding sequence is RR, LF, LR, RF. Suzuki's service engineers recommend the excellent maintenance practice of flushing out the old brake fluid every four years or 60K miles (personally, we prefer half that interval)." |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 17632
Location: West Sacramento, CA
Posts: 5,358
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The rear was switched to a single line coming out of a valve on the frame rail in 88? If it has 2 lines to the rear, the procedure described will work. If it has the one line, I'm not sure what the procedure is for that, but it is the one with the bleeder only on the left rear. I'd probably bleed the two lines going into that valve, then move to the left rear bleeder. If you ran your master cyl dry, you will have to bleed it first, then move to the wheels.
Travis..
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74 Ramcharger, 360, 4spd, 60/70 on 37s 91.5 Dodge 6BT 5 spd tow rig |
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