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Old 07-24-2007, 08:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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again.... how to bleed my Sami brakes

ok i am getting back to working on my sami and i am still having problems bleeding my brakes...I NEED HELP they just wont bleed they worked great before the longer brake line and the spring over... help me...
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Old 07-24-2007, 11:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Try gravity bleeding them first, open all of your wheel cylinders, close each cylinder as fluid comes out of them, do not depress the brake pedal at all. Then do your standard bleeding starting at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. If you can get your hands on a suction bleeder it makes the job super easy and you will not have to have anyone pump the brakes for you.
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Old 07-25-2007, 11:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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And if you're only doing some rear brake work (like replacing rear cylinders) would you still have to mess w/ the fronts, or just do rears only? And if I'm thinking right, the driver's rear has the longest brakeline on a Sammi, then the psgr rear, right?
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Old 07-25-2007, 12:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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My 88.5 zuk rear brakes have only one bleed valve and thats on the drivers side. It is very hard to bleed them and usually takes a qt. of fluid to get the air out.
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Old 07-25-2007, 02:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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When bleeding the rear, use a jack on the axle to lift the tires up about 1 ft off the ground. The proportioning valve toward the rear on the pass framerail will have an air bubble if not lifted.

I use speed bleeders and never have a problem. They are only a few bucks. Use the toyota thread bleeders on all 4 corners. Look at the auto parts store in the HELP! section.
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Old 07-25-2007, 02:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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So I assume this is the correct sequence to bleed them?
(taken from another Suzuki board)

"Since the hydraulic system is dual-diagonal, bleeding sequence is RR, LF, LR, RF. Suzuki's service engineers recommend the excellent maintenance practice of flushing out the old brake fluid every four years or 60K miles (personally, we prefer half that interval)."
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Old 07-25-2007, 09:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The rear was switched to a single line coming out of a valve on the frame rail in 88? If it has 2 lines to the rear, the procedure described will work. If it has the one line, I'm not sure what the procedure is for that, but it is the one with the bleeder only on the left rear. I'd probably bleed the two lines going into that valve, then move to the left rear bleeder. If you ran your master cyl dry, you will have to bleed it first, then move to the wheels.
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Old 07-26-2007, 03:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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simple

just open the bleeder that might help. then pump
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