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Old 10-08-2007, 05:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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stretching wheelbase..?

i have a set of 85' toy axles and i'm wondering what sprimgs to use to stretch my wheelbase? i'm looking to move the front 2-4" forward and move the rear 2-4" back.. i have a set of yj's and a set of 4" cj lift springs. is this capable of being done with leaf springs or not.? thanks for the advice in advance.
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Old 10-08-2007, 05:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would do the yj springs.. They work very well and flex great to. You might want to look into the wagoneer springs too. I think they are the same lenght but the center pin is off-set so it will give you alittle more wheelbase than the wrangler. Someone correct me if im wrong.
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Old 10-08-2007, 05:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes it can be done. depending on what tire size you are running you will have to trim your fenders a bit. You will have to make some brackets and weld them in the in the stock bracket location. This should move both axles 4-5 inches out. In the rear if you use missing links this will work out perfect for the shackle location. The front you will have to add some box tubing to the frame to to put your front shackles on. I have some pics of what I did to mine if you want to see them....

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Old 10-08-2007, 07:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yeah waggys and yj's are the same length not sure on the offset but don't use the cj's i hear they have no flex
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thanks for all the advice. do the wagoneer spings flex like the yj's? from what everyone has said the samurai rides like a cadillac with the yj's and the flex is awesome. yeah send the pics my way of what you have done i'm thinking of doing the swap this weekend but i just can't stand the down time. i know it will be well worth it in the long run but its surely valuable wheeling time wasted. thanks again and keep the info coming.
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Old 10-08-2007, 10:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yeah waggys and yj's are the same length not sure on the offset but don't use the cj's i hear they have no flex
right on about cj's not flexing as well but they last longer.

im going tj coils on all four corners after runnning yj's.

i went through yj's considerably quicker than i ever did my cj springs, of course the cj's were on my last cj and i didnt wheel it nearly as evtremely.

yj's worked well but im ready for the coils for many reasons. mostly cause my front hydro wont work with the pad placement or my new btf cover i won wont fit either, so good as reason as any.


but id suggest yj's all around for your situation.
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Old 10-09-2007, 09:34 AM   #7 (permalink)
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right on about cj's not flexing as well but they last longer.
one of the reasons the cj's flex less is the pads between the leaves, they are plastic vs yj's fancy teflon-like pads they're also thicker, and can easily be identified by the widening of the leaves at the ends where they taper. i've ran both, and like the fact that cj's don't "wear out" as quickly, and retain more arch under load. they are a bit stiffer on the road, though. (kinda feel like OME lifted sammy springs vs. stock, for comparison) i've heard of guys having excellent luck by disassembling their cj leaf packs, cleaning and lubing them, and putting them back together. seems to get a little more flex out of them. i assume that would work with all springs, including waggys or anything else.
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Old 10-09-2007, 05:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Here are some pics of when I stretched the front. Those where 35" tires. Lifted YJ's with one of the regular leaf springs removed from the pack.







Here is the rear.



This you can see the rear's front mount.


I also had to trim the front fender a bit.



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Old 10-09-2007, 07:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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do you think this would work without lifted yj springs? i have a set of stock yj's and the pics have giving me and my friend some insight into what route we can go. thanks for the pics. also what did you end up doing for the axles? are you still using the stock axles or yotas? i don't think that i'll have any reason to chop into the fenders at all. i'm plaining on running 35x14.5/15 super swamper boggers, used off a good friend $200. any more pics would be greatly appreciated. how far did your front and rear axles end up moving? what is your total wheel base now? do you have any side pics showing how far the stock frame brackets have moved? thanks again.

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Old 10-09-2007, 07:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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sorry after looking over the photos i noticed that you do have toy axles. but still what did you end up doing for the drive shafts? since i see the rear 3rd is centered. sorry for the numerous questions but i just what to make sure all my bases are covered.
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Old 10-09-2007, 11:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Itsmejoe, did you have to cut and turn your knuckles?

I plan on frame extension with shackle up front using a rear spring pack i am already using. So i will need to move the rear mount forward on the frame also. The thing is i think i will need to keep the rear spring mount at the same height it is now so that the caster angle is still in spec.


Any thoughs?

O yea, also, i want it to be lowwwwww, i am only running 31's and i am doin a tube clip. So i am going to try to get the shackle mount higher up than stock position to compensate for the bad caster by moving the rear mount forward (and higher up) on the frame.
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Old 10-10-2007, 09:02 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dabomb5756 View Post
So i am going to try to get the shackle mount higher up than stock position to compensate for the bad caster by moving the rear mount forward (and higher up) on the frame.
you could holesaw your frame in front of the front cab body mount bosses, and weld in tubing in which you would insert shackle bushings... assuming you are doing a proper shackle reversal, which gives you a better approach angle than fang shackles up front. you can even use the springs as sliders... i think rockrat or rock logic sells a kit with welding jigs. that will also help to solve the extreme perch angle problem with yj s/r setups...
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Old 10-10-2007, 09:26 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Here's a few pics of my 6" stretch when I did my shackle reversal and YJ conversion. I moved the rear axle back 1" and the front forward The 4" my wheelbase is right at 85"


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Old 10-10-2007, 10:03 AM   #14 (permalink)
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do you think this would work without lifted yj springs? i have a set of stock yj's and the pics have giving me and my friend some insight into what route we can go. thanks for the pics. also what did you end up doing for the axles? are you still using the stock axles or yotas? i don't think that i'll have any reason to chop into the fenders at all. i'm plaining on running 35x14.5/15 super swamper boggers, used off a good friend $200. any more pics would be greatly appreciated. how far did your front and rear axles end up moving? what is your total wheel base now? do you have any side pics showing how far the stock frame brackets have moved? thanks again.

Here is a side pic of the rig. It was right at 90".

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Old 10-10-2007, 10:18 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The rear d-shaft is a front toy ifs shaft. It works perfect for an uncut, stock shaft.

The front is a mix match of parts. From left to right.

Samurai u-joint, Sidekick rear d-shaft, Toyota slip joint.







I did not have it balanced. All I did was square it up and made sure it was straight. I have been running it like that for over 1 1/2 years and no vibes yet. If you are going to have a DD, get on made and have it balanced.


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Originally Posted by irishzuk View Post
sorry after looking over the photos i noticed that you do have toy axles. but still what did you end up doing for the drive shafts? since i see the rear 3rd is centered. sorry for the numerous questions but i just what to make sure all my bases are covered.

Last edited by Itsmejoe231; 10-10-2007 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 10-10-2007, 10:26 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Itsmejoe, did you have to cut and turn your knuckles?

I plan on frame extension with shackle up front using a rear spring pack i am already using. So i will need to move the rear mount forward on the frame also. The thing is i think i will need to keep the rear spring mount at the same height it is now so that the caster angle is still in spec.


Any thoughs?

O yea, also, i want it to be lowwwwww, i am only running 31's and i am doin a tube clip. So i am going to try to get the shackle mount higher up than stock position to compensate for the bad caster by moving the rear mount forward (and higher up) on the frame.
I rolled my knuckles on mine just cause I wanted the pinion rolled up looking at the t-case.

Every time you change springs and height of your rig you change the caster angle. If you are going to drive it on the street it is important you pay attention to the pinion angle. You will end up with bump steer and/or death wobble.

I dont drive mine on the street other that around the block and down the street in the neighborhood and I dont have any problems.
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Old 10-10-2007, 10:32 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by irishzuk View Post
do you think this would work without lifted yj springs? i have a set of stock yj's and the pics have giving me and my friend some insight into what route we can go. thanks for the pics. also what did you end up doing for the axles? are you still using the stock axles or yotas? i don't think that i'll have any reason to chop into the fenders at all. i'm plaining on running 35x14.5/15 super swamper boggers, used off a good friend $200. any more pics would be greatly appreciated. how far did your front and rear axles end up moving? what is your total wheel base now? do you have any side pics showing how far the stock frame brackets have moved? thanks again.
You would have to move the stock gas tank if you use stock YJ's and have to do a bunch of body trimming.

The frame brackets are in the stock location.
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Old 10-10-2007, 03:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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hey jpjon do you have pictures of the shackle side of things and the rear setup?
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Old 10-11-2007, 10:03 AM   #19 (permalink)
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O yea, also, i want it to be lowwwwww, i am only running 31's and i am doin a tube clip.
Run the springs under the axles and cut the fenders for tire clearance.
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