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Triplezero

34K views 117 replies 34 participants last post by  nissanmini2000  
#1 ·
iv dragged this over from another site so some of it doesn't make sense.


The plan is to take this doner lwb sammy and chop it up put a few bits on and make a few bits (well allot of bits)
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it came with the engine missing which suited me fine

the plan
shorten the wheel base to 86" and chop the xs from the rear
fit the axles from a yota lj70
ARB's front and rear
disks at rear
bfg 33x12.5 muds on fondmetaal aloys
1.6 16v vit efi engine with all the bits that go with it
vit gearbox,behind that the reduction part of a vit t/case
behind that another reduction part of a vit t/case
behind that a rocklobstered sj t/case with a disk prop brake fitted
(yes a triple t/case)
the suspension will be a one link front with panard
rear is a setup designed by me to give max travel with zero rear steer
(hence the name triple zero)
the dislocation of the springs will be controlled by pneumatic cylinders

a few pics of the build so far

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as you can see the rear diff is offset to suit the sammy t/case these axles are the same as the hilux apart from the offset and the front diff is high pinion with the steering tye rod behind the axle.
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all the above are just a trial setup, when I'm happy with it all it will be stripped, fully welded and structured.

steering done had to be made to cope with the extreme axle travel.
using a yota steering box, and each end of the drag link has 4 deep grooved rubber sealed roller bearings.
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#2 ·
I thought you were crazy for shortening a LWB,but then I saw the pictures of the suspention and then I read about 3 t-xases!I now know you are crazy! I have absolutly no idea whats going on with all that screwey It looks like it'll be cool and I can't wait to see how it comes out,sign05 :happy
if you mean the rear trailing arms do a web search for (scot russel linkage) this will go some way to explaining it. basicly with normal trailing arms they follow an ark when they go up or down. with this setup the axle goes up and down in a perfect strait line that give zero rear steer.
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#4 ·
Things got flex like a slinky. How are you going to control the axle wrap under acceleration? are you using the tabs on the rear end for a traction bar type setup? nice outside the box thinking. keep it up.
go to the front off the class got it in one. there will be a central traction bar but i need to get the t/case in pos to dial the pinion angle also ive got a high pin diff on its way for the rear.
 
#5 ·
vit (sorry kicker) trany case prepped ready for welding and output shaft shortened to go back in.
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this is the shaft for the first case behind the gear box it is shortened and resplined to the same type as the gearbox output shaft in order for it to go into the second kick case input.
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after the heat treatment and then giving the bearing races a polish.
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it was nitraded then heated to 1100deg oil quenched then tempered at 250deg three times, maybe over kill cos the original is only en16 case hardened.so it should be strong.
 
#6 ·
as i said above its basicly mocked up the front is just tacked on when im happy that its all setup i will strip it down and fully weld and brace. the front is a one link there is one joint just infront of the back axle so the front link runs full wheel base length, this will be lader braced and because there is no moving pivots at the axle end the front triangle will have a full bash plate to protect the steering an propshafts (sorry drive line, ill have to get used to the terms you use).:jumping:
 
#7 ·
been busy lately but managed to get some work done on my tranny. its not finished yet, the 2 kick reduction sections are done, just the kick to sammy coupler to do.

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#8 ·
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Got my rock box done today. I needed to brace the cases together and skid the sammy case so i did it all in one. Still need to fit the mounts going to have to make them aswell . You will notice that it is only a dual case and not the triple that i made this is because in the real world i didn't think i would ever use 260:1 final and i wasn't sure how relyable it would be with that much torque going to the sammy t/case. Somebody offered a silly price for it. so off it went.
 
#9 ·
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As you can see i have used the 80mm box for the sills. And also extended it to go up to the scuttle to form the bottom half of the cage. Ive done the same at the rear up to the level of the factory hoop then tube from there up. The plan is to have a fully integrated cage with just the screen hoop on the outside.
 
#12 ·
Had a go at the front end but im not happy with it. Its been said that it needs a stinger or something to finnish it. What do you think (the winch is a vector mounted in the middle of the frame just behind the front seats so it can be used for front or rear pull or both.)

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#16 ·
started the tare down to weld up all the bits that were just tack welded.
front axle nearly done just a few gusets to add here and there. all the one link frame done and the diff guard in 6mm plate.
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stripped out the diff and measured the backlash prior to rebuilding.
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#23 ·
for those that asked about the steering joints here you go 2 roller bearings the 2rs type (2 rubber seals)
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Then some turned sleeves.
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Turned some nylon spring seats to stop any creaking.
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And some shaped spring clamps they are twisted so they follow the coil snugly
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#25 · (Edited)
DAaaaaaaaammmmmnnnnnnn!

Triplezeros got skillz.:smokin:

I have never seen a link setup like yours before. Very interesting.

IMO if you narrowed your grill and lost the tube fenders the front end would look better.

Your fab work is definitely "outside the box". More pix please!