samurai engine gremlin! - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

mitchelldavis250 · 11-06-2010, 02:37 PM

so i let my samurai sit for about a month or so without being started, went out to fire it up and it ran perfect for about 5 minutes than puked and died. thats where the problem began. now it will start up idle great and as soon as i try and drive it, it plugs up, cackles, pops and has no power what so ever. seems to get worse the warmer the motor gets.

ive drained and replaced the fuel with sea foam added, used damn near a whole can on carb cleaner, replaced the fuel filter, blew out the fuel lines, diaphram in the fuel pump still has great pressure.

might break down and spend the money on a new webber but if the carbs not my problem than im still stuck with a non running rig. has anyone ever had the same problem? advice appreciated also!

wolverine31 · 11-06-2010, 03:09 PM

check your plugs. when was the last tune up?

mitchelldavis250 · 11-06-2010, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolverine31

check your plugs. when was the last tune up?

changed the plugs right before it sat for that little bit. it could use new plug wires but they are not bad at all. might try and replace the coil, see if that does anything for me.

skyman6529 · 11-06-2010, 03:15 PM

Try dripping(not pouring) a little fuel down the carb and see if it gets better.

Myself I use a misting spray bottle about 1/4 full of fuel. I have some one start and run the throttle while I am up front. I have them work the throttle while I spray.

If it will run and accelerate with the fuel added you know it is in the carburettor (because you have tested everything else).

It's hard to recommend using a spray bottle with a mister. Fuel vapor is a lot more flammable/dangerous than one would think. I have torched my fair share of eyebrows when i was younger (and not so smart). So be careful with the fuel.

starting fluid works too.

mitchelldavis250 · 11-06-2010, 03:22 PM

it may very well be that. i tried starting fluid right after it happened and it was as snappy as could be. weird thing is, is sometimes you can hop in it and it will run better than it ever has. than it will just hit out of no where and run like crap.

skyman6529 · 11-06-2010, 03:33 PM

That tells me either you have a float that is sticking sometimes, some junk floating around, or a bad connection. Both will cause it to act that way intermittently.

I was thinking that you are running lean, but the fact that it gets worse when warm (and requiring less fuel) doesn't support that.

Worse when hot, does suggest a coil going south (these are known for working but being weak). at $20 for anew aftermarket it's not a bad idea to replace.

I would check the usual suspects too, plugged PCV valve, sticking choke, bad accelerator pump, vacuum leaks, and inadvertent plug wire misplacement.

i know I have put the plug wires on wrong before too. If the miss is steady, or you know it is only one cylinder you can pull the plug wires one at a time, and see which one does not affect the idle. that will tell you which hole is weak.

Did you adjust the valves yet?

Probably knew most of that stuff anyways, but it gives you some stuff to noodle. if you haven;t yet, replace the PCV I am really suspect of it, they don't last but 3000 miles and they are only $3.00. They case a major vacuum leak when they go bad.

Hope it helps.

mitchelldavis250 · 11-06-2010, 03:50 PM

im thinking the pcv valve kind of... good reason why i had so much oil coming out from behind my fuel pump when i took it off. but who knows ill keep trying things you mentioned. thanks alot for the help!

mitchelldavis250 · 11-06-2010, 04:02 PM

another thing is, i can play with the throttle and bring it to any rpm and it will be pretty snappy but if i try to hold it at an rpm it will wanna die.

mitchelldavis250 · 11-06-2010, 06:15 PM

bought a pcv valve and a coil. neither one fixed the problem...

joc · 11-06-2010, 07:50 PM

I have had this same problem every since i bought my zuk a year ago. Havent got it fixed yet. Same gremlin in mine too.
It will run good for a few mins and then its all down hill the next.
acts like theres a dead spot in the carb or pedal at a really low rpm, its fine at idle, ease on the pedal and it sputters like no gas or misfiring, get half to wide open and it revs and runs fine. Just cant ease on pedal. If Im on the trail i have to just keep tappin the pedal to keep it goin lol.
I change fuel filter no luck and then i parked it for all summer and forgot about it. Im like you I hate to buy a new carb and it not fix it.

Today i noticed theres a ground wire on the bottom of distributor thats broke. would that cause this? Im guess its a ground.

BOFF · 11-06-2010, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitchelldavis250

im thinking the pcv valve kind of... good reason why i had so much oil coming out from behind my fuel pump when i took it off. but who knows ill keep trying things you mentioned. thanks alot for the help!

If you had oil coming out of the fuel pump, then the fuel pump is bad. I believe the diaphragm in the pump is split. Just my thoughts.

God Bless,
David B.

mitchelldavis250 · 11-06-2010, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BOFF

If you had oil coming out of the fuel pump, then the fuel pump is bad. I believe the diaphragm in the pump is split. Just my thoughts.

God Bless,
David B.

well it wasnt coming out of the fuel lines. it was coming out of the vent hose on the bottom of the fuel pump. its still got pretty good pressure. think i might just buy a webber. if its not the carb ill just set the thing on fire

BOFF · 11-07-2010, 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitchelldavis250

well it wasnt coming out of the fuel lines. it was coming out of the vent hose on the bottom of the fuel pump. its still got pretty good pressure. think i might just buy a webber. if its not the carb ill just set the thing on fire

If it's coming out of the vent tube on the fuel pump, then your fuel pump is bad. However, if you want to spent more money on a Weber, and THEN get a fuel pump, go ahead.

God Bless,
David B.

skyman6529 · 11-07-2010, 08:56 AM

Quote:

If it's coming out of the vent tube on the fuel pump, then your fuel pump is bad.

True story if any oil at all is coming from your duel pump the diaphragm is shot. Most of the time it also shoots fuel into the oil. I would check your oil and make sure it does not have a gas smell to it when you change the pump.

I know guys who have missed this, and run their oil thin, then lost their engine. Most of the time it will go on the freeway where 3500Rpm is the norm. No other signs until then aside from a lack of fuel pressure, and sometimes a slight lean bog.

I would venture to say that a fuel pump would probably fix your problem, at least help out a ton.

skyman6529 · 11-07-2010, 08:56 AM

Yes the strap form the distributor to the firewall is a ground and it is needed.

rizzlemcjonson · 11-07-2010, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BOFF

If it's coming out of the vent tube on the fuel pump, then your fuel pump is bad. However, if you want to spent more money on a Weber, and THEN get a fuel pump, go ahead.

God Bless,
David B.

BOFF is right I just changed my fuel pump that was leaking out of the vent hose and it fixed mine. A leaky diaphragm also means the fuel can be leaking into the engine and that could cause even more problems. Check the oil and see if it smells like fuel

mitchelldavis250 · 11-07-2010, 11:24 AM

well considering the fuel i drained out of my tank looked like a lava lamp my guess is flubber is chillin in the bottom of my float bowls right now. the weber was a future investment of mine anyways. my fuel pump seemed to of had just as much pressure as the one off the shelf at carquest so im not really convinced that thats the problem. if the carb doesnt do the trick than ill have to try the fuel pump rout again.

joc · 11-07-2010, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skyman6529

Yes the strap form the distributor to the firewall is a ground and it is needed.

Kinda what i was thinking. Ill make a new one and see if thats the problem. I kinda doubt it since it seems alot of people have this same type problem.

Its got a pony carb on it so whoever done it may have messed the vaccum lines up...alot seemed to be pluged off.

Where do i find the pvc valve? Its not on top of valve cover where I would think it would be.

Hate to hijack the post, sorry

mitchelldavis250 · 11-07-2010, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joc

Kinda what i was thinking. Ill make a new one and see if thats the problem. I kinda doubt it since it seems alot of people have this same type problem.

Its got a pony carb on it so whoever done it may have messed the vaccum lines up...alot seemed to be pluged off.

Where do i find the pvc valve? Its not on top of valve cover where I would think it would be.

Hate to hijack the post, sorry

pcv valve sits right in the middle of your intake manifold just fallow the tube that comes off of the top of your valve cover and there will be another tube that hooks into that one. almost looks like a spark plug type bolt.

skyman6529 · 11-07-2010, 11:47 AM

These carbs are so complicated and have so many little passages that they are hard to get running right. If they have seen bad gas, sat for a while and caramelized/turned to varnish in the bowls, or run in dusty shit, then they will be a botch to get right again.

In my experience if you tried; replacing all the vacuum lines, PCV, fuel pump, filter, new gas, and check all the linkage/electrical connections, then you are better off going with a EFI from a tracker, My-side, Myside-II, or other CV carb setup. whichever setup is cheapest and most available to you.

For anything but strictly on road the weber's suck, I spent nearly 2 years with tow different carbs (new and used). Avoid them at all costs.

Keep an eye out on the boards. I swapped some parts for a complete injection system. They run from $250-400 for a bolt on and go injection.

joc · 11-07-2010, 01:31 PM

well i just made a new ground wire for back of distrutor.
It actually seemed to fix my low end spit and sputter problem and dead spot in the gas pedal. Of course I wont know 100% til i get it out of my back yard where i have more than 10yards to take off and back up lol. I really hope this fixed it.
The wire was cut at the the distributor and didnt see any hanging wire near by so i guess this motor was pulled from one and put in and never got hooked up in the first place.

Oregon_Tin_Top · 11-07-2010, 01:59 PM

dont go with a webber, i have had nothing but problems with mine, before i fixed it it would flood out on an incline then i swapped the carb around 180 then it flooded in a decline, then i had to screw with the float lvl and finally it dosent flood out as bad on a decline..I have been doing alot of research and im thinking the way to go is harly carbs. you need a manifold for um but i found new kits about 350 total give or take.

mitchelldavis250 · 11-07-2010, 05:05 PM

well shit. im on a very tight budget lol just got out of hischool. i would love to find a set of gsxr carbs but i dont know how much that would end up costing.

skyman6529 · 11-07-2010, 05:17 PM

Honestly, unless you wanna' dick with getting it tuned for a month and then still having issues, a CV carb is the way to go. They run at any angle and need very little tuning to get right. They also make the 1.3 scream like a banshee. myron offers 2/47 phone support too, seriously 24/7 personal tech support.

Baratacus · 11-07-2010, 05:28 PM

It wouldn't be cheap. Get the rig running right before you blow money on a new or rebuilt carb. If the problem actually turns out to be your carb, you can get one from a wrecking yard and swap it out to see if 8it still does the same thing. It may have issues, but the chances of it's issues being the same as the one you currently have is astronomical. If your problems persist without change after swaping carbs, then the problem is most likely, not your carbs

11-06-2010, 02:37 PM	#1 (permalink)
mitchelldavis250 Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Member # 161036 Location: eugene, or Posts: 76	samurai engine gremlin! so i let my samurai sit for about a month or so without being started, went out to fire it up and it ran perfect for about 5 minutes than puked and died. thats where the problem began. now it will start up idle great and as soon as i try and drive it, it plugs up, cackles, pops and has no power what so ever. seems to get worse the warmer the motor gets. ive drained and replaced the fuel with sea foam added, used damn near a whole can on carb cleaner, replaced the fuel filter, blew out the fuel lines, diaphram in the fuel pump still has great pressure. might break down and spend the money on a new webber but if the carbs not my problem than im still stuck with a non running rig. has anyone ever had the same problem? advice appreciated also!

11-07-2010, 11:24 AM	#17 (permalink)
mitchelldavis250 Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Member # 161036 Location: eugene, or Posts: 76	well considering the fuel i drained out of my tank looked like a lava lamp my guess is flubber is chillin in the bottom of my float bowls right now. the weber was a future investment of mine anyways. my fuel pump seemed to of had just as much pressure as the one off the shelf at carquest so im not really convinced that thats the problem. if the carb doesnt do the trick than ill have to try the fuel pump rout again. Last edited by mitchelldavis250; 11-07-2010 at 11:24 AM.

11-07-2010, 05:05 PM	#23 (permalink)
mitchelldavis250 Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Member # 161036 Location: eugene, or Posts: 76	well shit. im on a very tight budget lol just got out of hischool. i would love to find a set of gsxr carbs but i dont know how much that would end up costing. Last edited by mitchelldavis250; 11-07-2010 at 05:06 PM.

11-07-2010, 05:28 PM	#25 (permalink)
Baratacus Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Member # 106586 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 687	It wouldn't be cheap. Get the rig running right before you blow money on a new or rebuilt carb. If the problem actually turns out to be your carb, you can get one from a wrecking yard and swap it out to see if 8it still does the same thing. It may have issues, but the chances of it's issues being the same as the one you currently have is astronomical. If your problems persist without change after swaping carbs, then the problem is most likely, not your carbs __________________ You can only smell fear if the fearfull have loose bowels.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

11-06-2010, 03:09 PM	#2 (permalink)
wolverine31 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Member # 85990 Location: Cookeville, TN Posts: 292	check your plugs. when was the last tune up?

11-06-2010, 03:15 PM	#4 (permalink)
skyman6529 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Member # 89104 Posts: 1,004	Try dripping(not pouring) a little fuel down the carb and see if it gets better. Myself I use a misting spray bottle about 1/4 full of fuel. I have some one start and run the throttle while I am up front. I have them work the throttle while I spray. If it will run and accelerate with the fuel added you know it is in the carburettor (because you have tested everything else). It's hard to recommend using a spray bottle with a mister. Fuel vapor is a lot more flammable/dangerous than one would think. I have torched my fair share of eyebrows when i was younger (and not so smart). So be careful with the fuel. starting fluid works too.

11-06-2010, 03:22 PM	#5 (permalink)
mitchelldavis250 Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Member # 161036 Location: eugene, or Posts: 76	it may very well be that. i tried starting fluid right after it happened and it was as snappy as could be. weird thing is, is sometimes you can hop in it and it will run better than it ever has. than it will just hit out of no where and run like crap.

11-06-2010, 03:33 PM	#6 (permalink)
skyman6529 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Member # 89104 Posts: 1,004	That tells me either you have a float that is sticking sometimes, some junk floating around, or a bad connection. Both will cause it to act that way intermittently. I was thinking that you are running lean, but the fact that it gets worse when warm (and requiring less fuel) doesn't support that. Worse when hot, does suggest a coil going south (these are known for working but being weak). at $20 for anew aftermarket it's not a bad idea to replace. I would check the usual suspects too, plugged PCV valve, sticking choke, bad accelerator pump, vacuum leaks, and inadvertent plug wire misplacement. i know I have put the plug wires on wrong before too. If the miss is steady, or you know it is only one cylinder you can pull the plug wires one at a time, and see which one does not affect the idle. that will tell you which hole is weak. Did you adjust the valves yet? Probably knew most of that stuff anyways, but it gives you some stuff to noodle. if you haven;t yet, replace the PCV I am really suspect of it, they don't last but 3000 miles and they are only $3.00. They case a major vacuum leak when they go bad. Hope it helps.

11-06-2010, 03:50 PM	#7 (permalink)
mitchelldavis250 Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Member # 161036 Location: eugene, or Posts: 76	im thinking the pcv valve kind of... good reason why i had so much oil coming out from behind my fuel pump when i took it off. but who knows ill keep trying things you mentioned. thanks alot for the help!

11-06-2010, 04:02 PM	#8 (permalink)
mitchelldavis250 Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Member # 161036 Location: eugene, or Posts: 76	another thing is, i can play with the throttle and bring it to any rpm and it will be pretty snappy but if i try to hold it at an rpm it will wanna die.

11-06-2010, 06:15 PM	#9 (permalink)
mitchelldavis250 Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Member # 161036 Location: eugene, or Posts: 76	bought a pcv valve and a coil. neither one fixed the problem...

11-06-2010, 07:50 PM	#10 (permalink)
joc Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Member # 132693 Location: NW, AL Posts: 150	I have had this same problem every since i bought my zuk a year ago. Havent got it fixed yet. Same gremlin in mine too. It will run good for a few mins and then its all down hill the next. acts like theres a dead spot in the carb or pedal at a really low rpm, its fine at idle, ease on the pedal and it sputters like no gas or misfiring, get half to wide open and it revs and runs fine. Just cant ease on pedal. If Im on the trail i have to just keep tappin the pedal to keep it goin lol. I change fuel filter no luck and then i parked it for all summer and forgot about it. Im like you I hate to buy a new carb and it not fix it. Today i noticed theres a ground wire on the bottom of distributor thats broke. would that cause this? Im guess its a ground.

11-07-2010, 08:56 AM	#15 (permalink)
skyman6529 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Member # 89104 Posts: 1,004	Yes the strap form the distributor to the firewall is a ground and it is needed.

11-07-2010, 11:47 AM	#20 (permalink)
skyman6529 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Member # 89104 Posts: 1,004	These carbs are so complicated and have so many little passages that they are hard to get running right. If they have seen bad gas, sat for a while and caramelized/turned to varnish in the bowls, or run in dusty shit, then they will be a botch to get right again. In my experience if you tried; replacing all the vacuum lines, PCV, fuel pump, filter, new gas, and check all the linkage/electrical connections, then you are better off going with a EFI from a tracker, My-side, Myside-II, or other CV carb setup. whichever setup is cheapest and most available to you. For anything but strictly on road the weber's suck, I spent nearly 2 years with tow different carbs (new and used). Avoid them at all costs. Keep an eye out on the boards. I swapped some parts for a complete injection system. They run from $250-400 for a bolt on and go injection.

11-07-2010, 01:31 PM	#21 (permalink)
joc Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Member # 132693 Location: NW, AL Posts: 150	well i just made a new ground wire for back of distrutor. It actually seemed to fix my low end spit and sputter problem and dead spot in the gas pedal. Of course I wont know 100% til i get it out of my back yard where i have more than 10yards to take off and back up lol. I really hope this fixed it. The wire was cut at the the distributor and didnt see any hanging wire near by so i guess this motor was pulled from one and put in and never got hooked up in the first place.

11-07-2010, 01:59 PM	#22 (permalink)
Oregon_Tin_Top Registered User Join Date: Jul 2010 Member # 163810 Location: Eugene oregon Posts: 62	dont go with a webber, i have had nothing but problems with mine, before i fixed it it would flood out on an incline then i swapped the carb around 180 then it flooded in a decline, then i had to screw with the float lvl and finally it dosent flood out as bad on a decline..I have been doing alot of research and im thinking the way to go is harly carbs. you need a manifold for um but i found new kits about 350 total give or take.

11-07-2010, 05:17 PM	#24 (permalink)
skyman6529 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Member # 89104 Posts: 1,004	Honestly, unless you wanna' dick with getting it tuned for a month and then still having issues, a CV carb is the way to go. They run at any angle and need very little tuning to get right. They also make the 1.3 scream like a banshee. myron offers 2/47 phone support too, seriously 24/7 personal tech support.