Clutch cables breaking - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

toyota99 · 12-15-2010, 10:36 AM

Hello all,

We have an '86 tin top. Everything is stock, my Dad uses it as a DD. One day we will modify the little beast, but for now we are leaving things alone.

But, this thing is breaking clutch cables 1 every few months. The clutch is hard to push, then it suddenly breaks over and the clutch is applied. I do know the input bearing retainer looks like a washboard. Anyone know if this could be caused by anything other than the bearing retainer?

Thanks

Mope · 12-15-2010, 11:34 AM

Really the only way to know is to drop the tranny. Notch the crossmember thats there, and the tranny will come out pretty quick and easy. You'll be able to see everything that's going on in there. It shouldn't be acting like that.

jewzuki · 12-15-2010, 02:26 PM

sounds like the finger springs on the disc are bad. sami trany's are easy to get out they only weigh about 35lbs. drop it and check.

skyman6529 · 12-15-2010, 07:51 PM

One common cause is the stock grounds going bad, or getting corroded. When this happens the starter and other high amp loads are routed through the only other available ground, the clutch cable.

When I was installing the 1.6 I forgot to hook my big ground cable to the starter bolt, and fried a clutch cable in short order. I fixed it right away, but the clutch cable was crunchy, and very binary on/off after that.

I have actually seen the insulation on a clutch cable catch on fire the entire length of the cable. It is a really common problem with stock wiring, check your grounds.

5zukyard · 12-16-2010, 04:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skyman6529

One common cause is the stock grounds going bad, or getting corroded. When this happens the starter and other high amp loads are routed through the only other available ground, the clutch cable.

When I was installing the 1.6 I forgot to hook my big ground cable to the starter bolt, and fried a clutch cable in short order. I fixed it right away, but the clutch cable was crunchy, and very binary on/off after that.

I have actually seen the insulation on a clutch cable catch on fire the entire length of the cable. It is a really common problem with stock wiring, check your grounds.

This has happened to me also, although its kinda hard not to pickup. Where does the cable break? Aftermarket or oem cable? Sounds kinda like more of a problem than just the cable, but I was just wondering. Oem is the only way to go, but niether should break in a month or 2.

hydrogeo · 12-16-2010, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skyman6529

One common cause is the stock grounds going bad, or getting corroded. When this happens the starter and other high amp loads are routed through the only other available ground, the clutch cable.

When I was installing the 1.6 I forgot to hook my big ground cable to the starter bolt, and fried a clutch cable in short order. I fixed it right away, but the clutch cable was crunchy, and very binary on/off after that.

I have actually seen the insulation on a clutch cable catch on fire the entire length of the cable. It is a really common problem with stock wiring, check your grounds.

Similar event just happened to me associated with the ground issue. Mine went at the tightest curve in the cable, under the front of the motor. Insulation melted away and the cable frayed. Before pulling the tranny I would suggest moving the arm where the clutch cable attaches with a pair of vice grips. It will move hard but be should be free and not bind. If it binds then you are taking things apart. Also, look closely at the cable to see if the sheathing looks like it has gotten hot as suggested. Luckily the cables aren't too expensive.

catzuk · 12-16-2010, 06:38 AM

I have had a few of the input housings go bad keeping the throwout bearing from moving smoothly causing similar issues to what your having. Easy to replace and install a new throwout bearing, cable, and adjust correctly following factory directions and you should be good to go.

this part:
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuk...-retainer.html

jones · 12-16-2010, 12:26 PM

Interesting posts about the grounds. I've never heard that before.

cajunsuzukispider · 12-16-2010, 05:48 PM

definitely use only OEM clutch cables. even if nothing makes them go bad, they're crap after a year or so. OEM works so much smoother it's pitiful, plus it'll last for years, assuming you don't fry it.

toyota99 · 12-19-2010, 06:02 AM

Thanks to all. That ground thing was news to me. Will definitely check that out. I do believe that the input bearing retainer is rough. Could be a combo of both problems. I think he has been buying the Autozone replacements. We will try the OEM next time.

Thanks again guys.

12-15-2010, 10:36 AM	#1 (permalink)
toyota99 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Member # 133150 Location: Arkansas Posts: 7	Clutch cables breaking Hello all, We have an '86 tin top. Everything is stock, my Dad uses it as a DD. One day we will modify the little beast, but for now we are leaving things alone. But, this thing is breaking clutch cables 1 every few months. The clutch is hard to push, then it suddenly breaks over and the clutch is applied. I do know the input bearing retainer looks like a washboard. Anyone know if this could be caused by anything other than the bearing retainer? Thanks

12-16-2010, 06:38 AM	#7 (permalink)
catzuk Granite Guru Join Date: Mar 2005 Member # 44135 Location: Pueblo,CO Posts: 855	I have had a few of the input housings go bad keeping the throwout bearing from moving smoothly causing similar issues to what your having. Easy to replace and install a new throwout bearing, cable, and adjust correctly following factory directions and you should be good to go. this part: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuk...-retainer.html __________________ 87 Zuk, dana 44's w/5:38 detroits,coils/3 link frt, 3 link rear 37" Krawlers 87 Zuk, SPOA, Lockright/spool, 31" Truxs MT's. shaved and trussed stock axle housings,1.6/w 1.3 head, fuel injected, 4.16 t-case 88.5 Zuk future project pending

12-16-2010, 12:26 PM	#8 (permalink)
jones Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Member # 8687 Location: Vancouver Island B.C. Posts: 1,083	Interesting posts about the grounds. I've never heard that before. __________________ The word "jones" is a slang term meaning to crave, want, or desire; or, to feel withdrawal from an activity of passion. The general slang meaning is often associated with addictive substance habits but can be applied on a more universal scale.

12-16-2010, 05:48 PM	#9 (permalink)
cajunsuzukispider Registered User Join Date: Jun 2005 Member # 48911 Location: acworth, ga Posts: 1,923	definitely use only OEM clutch cables. even if nothing makes them go bad, they're crap after a year or so. OEM works so much smoother it's pitiful, plus it'll last for years, assuming you don't fry it. __________________ 4.3v6,t18,dana18, ford/chevy driveshaft, chevy front in front, chevy front in rear

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12-15-2010, 11:34 AM	#2 (permalink)
Mope Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Member # 67470 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 1,172	Really the only way to know is to drop the tranny. Notch the crossmember thats there, and the tranny will come out pretty quick and easy. You'll be able to see everything that's going on in there. It shouldn't be acting like that.

12-15-2010, 07:51 PM	#4 (permalink)
skyman6529 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Member # 89104 Posts: 1,004	One common cause is the stock grounds going bad, or getting corroded. When this happens the starter and other high amp loads are routed through the only other available ground, the clutch cable. When I was installing the 1.6 I forgot to hook my big ground cable to the starter bolt, and fried a clutch cable in short order. I fixed it right away, but the clutch cable was crunchy, and very binary on/off after that. I have actually seen the insulation on a clutch cable catch on fire the entire length of the cable. It is a really common problem with stock wiring, check your grounds.

12-19-2010, 06:02 AM	#10 (permalink)
toyota99 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Member # 133150 Location: Arkansas Posts: 7	Thanks to all. That ground thing was news to me. Will definitely check that out. I do believe that the input bearing retainer is rough. Could be a combo of both problems. I think he has been buying the Autozone replacements. We will try the OEM next time. Thanks again guys.