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Old 12-23-2010, 10:26 AM   #1 (permalink)
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The Cobra build

heres my build from last winter. ive been wheeling a samurai for a few years now and this one is my 2nd.

To start with here are pics of when i bought it and what it looks like now. i got a lot of inspiration from rigs found on pirate.

Its named the cobra because of some awesome modifications done by the previous owner. You will see pics later in the thread.

Drivetrain is mostly out of my old rig. tracker 1.6 8v. ringr adapter to toy 5spd, dual toy cases with 4.7 in the rear. toy axles with 5.29s. 39 krawlers.

Ive got my old build thread to go by, but it was a while ago so hopefully ill get everything. please ask any questions you have and ill do my best to answer. them.

frosty
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Old 12-23-2010, 10:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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here are some of the really cool modifications by the prior owner...and the reason for the cobra name.

This samurai was really clean. no rust. you dont find rigs like this in New England. supposedly it was from florida. every single nut and bolt came apart with a wrench,

i got it cheap because it didnt run. well the reason for that was simple. it was a 1992 with an efi motor. the po decided to do a "1 wire" upgrade and cut all the wires at the back of the alternator and ran 1 wire from it to the battery. All the wires were power for some of the sensors. Also by doing this he cooked the computer.

So i was at a crossroads as to where i wanted to take this project. all it needed to be drivable was a computer and some electrical work.

The original goal of this rig was to do a mild build to drive some of the local dirt roads around home.

i was having a hard time spending the money on a new computer when i had a complete running 1.6 sitting in the garage from my old samurai.
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Old 12-23-2010, 10:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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here was the old rig. it started out as a fairly complete samurai but too much wheeling and too many lousy friday night modifications left me wanting to start over.
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Old 12-23-2010, 01:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i figured that there was no reason to stick with any of the stock zuki drivetrain when i had everything from the old rig sitting there.

i pulled the front clip, stretched and straightened the front frame and dropped the 1.6 in place.

next would be onto the tranny and transfer cases.
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Old 12-23-2010, 02:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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the tranny tunnel took some massaging with a sledge and some trimming for the added shifters, but things went in well. i wanted the 5 spd shifter to be in the stock location.

i was able to push all of the toyota stuff up high enough to get a flat belly.

i modified a custom mount for the t-cases. this set up is much better than the stock factory mount/location plus it allowed me to keep a flat belly.
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Old 12-23-2010, 02:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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how about some video intermission to show my absolutely horrible driving.....at least i got to test the cage.

YouTube - VID00008.mp4
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Old 12-23-2010, 02:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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love the calm nature of you rolling. like a dog asking for a treat.
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Old 12-23-2010, 02:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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come on, get to the good stuff :P
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Old 12-23-2010, 03:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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about time you found this room ...
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Old 12-23-2010, 04:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Awsome! What did the wheel base end up at? Do you have any close up pics of the front frame fix?
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Old 12-23-2010, 05:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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What the hell is all of that creaking and popping noise? Did you ruin your hard top?
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Old 12-23-2010, 07:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hard top came off in one piece and that wonderful noise is the driveshaft on the skid plate.
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Old 12-24-2010, 02:15 AM   #13 (permalink)
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wheelbase is at 108.

the hardtop was junk anyway, but no the roll didnt hurt it.

the creaking and popping is my front driveshaft rubbing on the skidplate. i build one out of scd 80 poop pipe and the diameter was a bit larger than the stock front shaft was, so i need to clearance my front skidplate cutout some more.

ill address the frame fix in a few. i ended up cutting the front of the frame off anyway, but ill show both scenarios.

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Old 12-24-2010, 02:18 AM   #14 (permalink)
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i had been wheeling is stock this or that seats for years. the ones in my old rig were out of a saturn and were actually pretty nice but i decided i needed some real suspension seats.

i scored some mastercrafts on craigslist. i adapted them to use the stock samurai sliders. they are a nice seat and i couldnt be happier with them.
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Old 12-24-2010, 02:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Next up was axle building. i am happy with toyota stuff, but had to address some of the weak spots i found while wheeling the toys over the past few years.

i added trail gear slugs with the added dowel pins after shearing off all of my hub studs one day. i stepped up to the trail gear 6 shooters with arp bolts after breaking some of the stock steering arm studs on my old housing. i also installed the cap head diff studs since i had pulled out a few in years past.

Of course a set of 30 spline longs went in and a welded 5.29 third. i ran some detroits for a while in my old rig thinking that it would help my turning radius and i absolutely hated them and their unpredictable locking and unlocking so i went back to welded diffs and am completely happy.

i cleaned up a stock 84ish housing and added a truss. i didnt like any of the after market trusses so i found out that some 3x3x 1/8 sq tube fits the toy axles nicely.
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Old 12-24-2010, 03:24 AM   #16 (permalink)
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one of the biggest reasons for building a new rig was to get away from leaf springs. i was so sick of the front and rear departure angles not allowing me to get onto some of the steeper climbs. not to mention the countless bent springs and wheel hop issues.

i ordered up some joints from ruffstuff. excellent customer service and great prices.

my old rigs wheelbase sat at 106" and i wanted a bit more so i went with
108" for this rig.

i had never done a link suspension before, but with some advice from a friend and some reading i just stuck to the formulas and started cutting out mounts and making links.
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Old 12-24-2010, 03:35 AM   #17 (permalink)
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i ended up with 40" lowers and 30" uppers. 7/8 heims on the bottom links and 3/4 on the top.

in the photos above you can see that my upper links were only at about 30 degrees with the stock frame. that wasnt gonna cut it so i cut off the frame at the firewall, plated it and moved my rear upper mounts outside of the frame. it worked out well because i used the stock body mount for support.

my lowers run to the outside of the stock frame. i liked this setup and kind of copied another rig or two on this forum for the idea. it let me keep a flatbelly and the rig could "slide" over rocks along the links without getting caught on any mounts.
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Old 12-24-2010, 04:59 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Looks good other than this:



Welding to the cast motor mount will be your weak link and this weld will fatigue and fail over time.


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Old 12-24-2010, 08:38 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Looking good nice work mister.
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Old 12-24-2010, 09:49 AM   #20 (permalink)
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sean

i questioned welding to those mounts. they arent exactly cast, but arent steel either. its on the list to make some new ones, but they have been fine for a year of wheeling.

bobby-thanks for the great products. been wheeling your shafts for a few years now and my doubler has one of your outputs.

frosty
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Old 12-24-2010, 10:00 AM   #21 (permalink)
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cycling the front suspenion. everything looked good.
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Old 12-24-2010, 02:15 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ole' manche' View Post
sean

i questioned welding to those mounts. they arent exactly cast, but arent steel either. its on the list to make some new ones, but they have been fine for a year of wheeling.

bobby-thanks for the great products. been wheeling your shafts for a few years now and my doubler has one of your outputs.

frosty


Not trying to bust your balls, but I have seen these fail when welded to unless done properly and reinforced. Wait, that pic is a year old? ...then you may not have too much time left


Quote:
Originally Posted by ole' manche' View Post
how about some video intermission to show my absolutely horrible driving.....at least i got to test the cage.

YouTube - VID00008.mp4
NICE! Got any vid's of the recovery or the aftermath?


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Old 12-25-2010, 11:51 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I've got a clip of the recovery, I'll get it posted up later today.
Only thing that bent was the bar above the windshield.

I did my motor mounts the same way, but connected the bushing to the stock mount differently - has more weld and semi boxed/contained - almost as much time on it as Ryan, and no problems so far.

Maybe I should post up some of my build
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Old 12-25-2010, 12:45 PM   #24 (permalink)
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YouTube - Recovery2
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Old 12-25-2010, 07:21 PM   #25 (permalink)
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thanks mikey. hadnt seen that vid.

frosty
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